WTB: 1970 - 1972 LT-1 Roadster 4 Speed
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
1970 - 1972 LT-1 Roadster 4 Speed
Looking intently for a 1970 - 1972 LT-1 Roadster 4 Speed
Colors: Anything but orange or green
Colors: Anything but orange or green
Last edited by bearcatfan9; 03-09-2019 at 08:15 AM.
Popular Reply
10-15-2018, 02:23 PM
Melting Slicks
Good news is if it is a real LT-1, it will be a 4sp
Good news is if it is a real LT-1, it is going to be a 4sp.
Keep looking and you will find one, if you want one already restored, it will cost some coins, suggest you get a knowledgeable expert to look at it with you too before you plunk down your hard earned toad pelts as Bats says, ha!
Here is a good list mostly from here:5-21-2018 Here is a great list I saved from a posting here:
There are a few things that only a LT-1 would have , some are pretty easy to change out and some are not very easy at all.in no piticular order.
1st. No 1970 or 1971 LT-1 had A/C
2nd. Emission sticker on fire wall behind master cylinder should have letters AX on upper left corner for a 71.
3rd. All LT-1's are 4 speeds. (M20 was std , M21/M22 were optional)
4th. Tach has 6,500 RPM red line on 1970 & 1971 and on 72's w/o AC
5th. All 71 LT-1's came with A.I.R. system. If removed should still have manifolds with holes for the tubes, Car may have headers and if so ask to see old manifolds.
6th. LT-1's had copper radiator W/O a overflow canisiter on the passenger side fenderwell. There should also be no holes whers one had been mounted.
7th. All 70 / 71 LT-1's had Tranisitor Ign. system. That may have been removed. But if it is removed look for the 3 holes on the front face of the driver side inner fender well where the Amplifer box was mounter.
Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1
8th. Should have a Winters snowflake intake manifold with casting # 3959594
for 1971 and 1972, per NCRS, 1970 should be #3972110. Both manifolds are aluminum (my addition).
9th. LT-1's had a Holley carb. so there is only 1 fuel line , no return line like a quadra-jet carb. Look along frame rail on passanger side for the single line. Also the fuel tank is different. There should be no nipple on the passanger side, side wall for a return line.
If you lay on your back under the rear wheel you can reach your hand up and feel for an indention on the passanger side. If there is a nipple that is capped off , then beware.
Also the single fuel line on a LT-1 was not the same line that was used to feed fuel on the 2 line set up. So if someone removed the return line the look of the 3/8 line is still different. Not a big difference but if you can look at a car with a 2 line set up then you can see what you do not want to find.
10th. LT-1's had solid lifters , but if the car does not then that is not to big a red flag. Many people do not like them and may have replaced with HYD. lifters during a rebuild.
11th. The hardest to fake and most expensive would be the 4 bolt main block. No # on the outside of the block can verify this.
Only way to verify is to remove the pan or have a lighted optical viewer and remove the drain plug.
12th. LT-1's use 2.5" exhaust pipes like the big block cars. But the manifolds were still 2" set up. So the pipes flair from 2 to 2.5" about 6 inches from the manifold. The exhaust hangar at the trans is also different. Look on line at the Corvette Central site and you can see both 2" and 2.5" hangars.
13th. As I recall the highest rear end gear was 3:36 if trans was a M20
And id Trans was a M21 or M22 the 3:55 was highest gear
M20 3:36 Economy
3:55 Standard
3:70 Performance
M21 / M22
3:55 Economy
3:70 Standard
4:11 Performance
14th. The 71 /71 LT-1 Aluminum valve covers should have a rubber oil cap not a twist in. These covers are very hard to find. All the catalog's sell the twist in cap style.
15th. LT-1's have the same heavy duty half shaft retainers as big block cars. look at the rear end side yokes, there should be caps with bolts. Base cars used U bolts with nuts.
16th. The rocker arms have a letter O stamped in them.
17th. The balancer on the crankshaft is an 8" unit not a 6" 18th. Original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.
That is all I know of. and you could not fake all of this and sell a car for a mid 20's price and be worth the effort / expense.
So until someone finds the lost records from St Louis anyone buying a no base model car will be going out on a limb at little unless you are buying from the original owner.
Sounds like a very nice Corvette, if you decide to pass, please post a picture! Even if a "fake" LT-1, it might be a great deal if priced accordingly. IMHO, the key is to pay fair market price for what it actually is!
18th. Original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.
19th Great check list for a LT1. You could add No p/s in 1970 with a CTU engine. CTU had the 6 qt. oil pan. Also, plastic fan shrouds on LT1s. 6-21-18
20th. Lots of places to find this (the key is of course: is it an original stamp?)
1970 CTK, CTR, CTU CTV(ZR1)
1971 CGY(ZR1), CGZ
1972 CKY CKZ(ZR1) CRS CRT
Keep looking and you will find one, if you want one already restored, it will cost some coins, suggest you get a knowledgeable expert to look at it with you too before you plunk down your hard earned toad pelts as Bats says, ha!
Here is a good list mostly from here:5-21-2018 Here is a great list I saved from a posting here:
There are a few things that only a LT-1 would have , some are pretty easy to change out and some are not very easy at all.in no piticular order.
1st. No 1970 or 1971 LT-1 had A/C
2nd. Emission sticker on fire wall behind master cylinder should have letters AX on upper left corner for a 71.
3rd. All LT-1's are 4 speeds. (M20 was std , M21/M22 were optional)
4th. Tach has 6,500 RPM red line on 1970 & 1971 and on 72's w/o AC
5th. All 71 LT-1's came with A.I.R. system. If removed should still have manifolds with holes for the tubes, Car may have headers and if so ask to see old manifolds.
6th. LT-1's had copper radiator W/O a overflow canisiter on the passenger side fenderwell. There should also be no holes whers one had been mounted.
7th. All 70 / 71 LT-1's had Tranisitor Ign. system. That may have been removed. But if it is removed look for the 3 holes on the front face of the driver side inner fender well where the Amplifer box was mounter.
Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1
8th. Should have a Winters snowflake intake manifold with casting # 3959594
for 1971 and 1972, per NCRS, 1970 should be #3972110. Both manifolds are aluminum (my addition).
9th. LT-1's had a Holley carb. so there is only 1 fuel line , no return line like a quadra-jet carb. Look along frame rail on passanger side for the single line. Also the fuel tank is different. There should be no nipple on the passanger side, side wall for a return line.
If you lay on your back under the rear wheel you can reach your hand up and feel for an indention on the passanger side. If there is a nipple that is capped off , then beware.
Also the single fuel line on a LT-1 was not the same line that was used to feed fuel on the 2 line set up. So if someone removed the return line the look of the 3/8 line is still different. Not a big difference but if you can look at a car with a 2 line set up then you can see what you do not want to find.
10th. LT-1's had solid lifters , but if the car does not then that is not to big a red flag. Many people do not like them and may have replaced with HYD. lifters during a rebuild.
11th. The hardest to fake and most expensive would be the 4 bolt main block. No # on the outside of the block can verify this.
Only way to verify is to remove the pan or have a lighted optical viewer and remove the drain plug.
12th. LT-1's use 2.5" exhaust pipes like the big block cars. But the manifolds were still 2" set up. So the pipes flair from 2 to 2.5" about 6 inches from the manifold. The exhaust hangar at the trans is also different. Look on line at the Corvette Central site and you can see both 2" and 2.5" hangars.
13th. As I recall the highest rear end gear was 3:36 if trans was a M20
And id Trans was a M21 or M22 the 3:55 was highest gear
M20 3:36 Economy
3:55 Standard
3:70 Performance
M21 / M22
3:55 Economy
3:70 Standard
4:11 Performance
14th. The 71 /71 LT-1 Aluminum valve covers should have a rubber oil cap not a twist in. These covers are very hard to find. All the catalog's sell the twist in cap style.
15th. LT-1's have the same heavy duty half shaft retainers as big block cars. look at the rear end side yokes, there should be caps with bolts. Base cars used U bolts with nuts.
16th. The rocker arms have a letter O stamped in them.
17th. The balancer on the crankshaft is an 8" unit not a 6" 18th. Original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.
That is all I know of. and you could not fake all of this and sell a car for a mid 20's price and be worth the effort / expense.
So until someone finds the lost records from St Louis anyone buying a no base model car will be going out on a limb at little unless you are buying from the original owner.
Sounds like a very nice Corvette, if you decide to pass, please post a picture! Even if a "fake" LT-1, it might be a great deal if priced accordingly. IMHO, the key is to pay fair market price for what it actually is!
18th. Original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.
19th Great check list for a LT1. You could add No p/s in 1970 with a CTU engine. CTU had the 6 qt. oil pan. Also, plastic fan shrouds on LT1s. 6-21-18
20th. Lots of places to find this (the key is of course: is it an original stamp?)
1970 CTK, CTR, CTU CTV(ZR1)
1971 CGY(ZR1), CGZ
1972 CKY CKZ(ZR1) CRS CRT
#2
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Member Since: Jul 2018
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2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Not Mine and no affiliation whatsoever. Only linking the ad to try to help. If not allowed, please delete it or I will...
This looks like a beautiful car. Pricey for my wallet, but one I'd like.
https://daytona.craigslist.org/cto/d...690552653.html
This looks like a beautiful car. Pricey for my wallet, but one I'd like.
https://daytona.craigslist.org/cto/d...690552653.html
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Not Mine and no affiliation whatsoever. Only linking the ad to try to help. If not allowed, please delete it or I will...
This looks like a beautiful car. Pricey for my wallet, but one I'd like.
https://daytona.craigslist.org/cto/d...690552653.html
This looks like a beautiful car. Pricey for my wallet, but one I'd like.
https://daytona.craigslist.org/cto/d...690552653.html
#8
Pro
That's too bad. Personally, I've always loved Laguna Grey.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
The following users liked this post:
seacliffe301 (10-09-2018)
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Still looking for a documented LT-1 Roadster...
#12
Melting Slicks
Good news is if it is a real LT-1, it will be a 4sp
Good news is if it is a real LT-1, it is going to be a 4sp.
Keep looking and you will find one, if you want one already restored, it will cost some coins, suggest you get a knowledgeable expert to look at it with you too before you plunk down your hard earned toad pelts as Bats says, ha!
Here is a good list mostly from here:5-21-2018 Here is a great list I saved from a posting here:
There are a few things that only a LT-1 would have , some are pretty easy to change out and some are not very easy at all.in no piticular order.
1st. No 1970 or 1971 LT-1 had A/C
2nd. Emission sticker on fire wall behind master cylinder should have letters AX on upper left corner for a 71.
3rd. All LT-1's are 4 speeds. (M20 was std , M21/M22 were optional)
4th. Tach has 6,500 RPM red line on 1970 & 1971 and on 72's w/o AC
5th. All 71 LT-1's came with A.I.R. system. If removed should still have manifolds with holes for the tubes, Car may have headers and if so ask to see old manifolds.
6th. LT-1's had copper radiator W/O a overflow canisiter on the passenger side fenderwell. There should also be no holes whers one had been mounted.
7th. All 70 / 71 LT-1's had Tranisitor Ign. system. That may have been removed. But if it is removed look for the 3 holes on the front face of the driver side inner fender well where the Amplifer box was mounter.
Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1
8th. Should have a Winters snowflake intake manifold with casting # 3959594
for 1971 and 1972, per NCRS, 1970 should be #3972110. Both manifolds are aluminum (my addition).
9th. LT-1's had a Holley carb. so there is only 1 fuel line , no return line like a quadra-jet carb. Look along frame rail on passanger side for the single line. Also the fuel tank is different. There should be no nipple on the passanger side, side wall for a return line.
If you lay on your back under the rear wheel you can reach your hand up and feel for an indention on the passanger side. If there is a nipple that is capped off , then beware.
Also the single fuel line on a LT-1 was not the same line that was used to feed fuel on the 2 line set up. So if someone removed the return line the look of the 3/8 line is still different. Not a big difference but if you can look at a car with a 2 line set up then you can see what you do not want to find.
10th. LT-1's had solid lifters , but if the car does not then that is not to big a red flag. Many people do not like them and may have replaced with HYD. lifters during a rebuild.
11th. The hardest to fake and most expensive would be the 4 bolt main block. No # on the outside of the block can verify this.
Only way to verify is to remove the pan or have a lighted optical viewer and remove the drain plug.
12th. LT-1's use 2.5" exhaust pipes like the big block cars. But the manifolds were still 2" set up. So the pipes flair from 2 to 2.5" about 6 inches from the manifold. The exhaust hangar at the trans is also different. Look on line at the Corvette Central site and you can see both 2" and 2.5" hangars.
13th. As I recall the highest rear end gear was 3:36 if trans was a M20
And id Trans was a M21 or M22 the 3:55 was highest gear
M20 3:36 Economy
3:55 Standard
3:70 Performance
M21 / M22
3:55 Economy
3:70 Standard
4:11 Performance
14th. The 71 /71 LT-1 Aluminum valve covers should have a rubber oil cap not a twist in. These covers are very hard to find. All the catalog's sell the twist in cap style.
15th. LT-1's have the same heavy duty half shaft retainers as big block cars. look at the rear end side yokes, there should be caps with bolts. Base cars used U bolts with nuts.
16th. The rocker arms have a letter O stamped in them.
17th. The balancer on the crankshaft is an 8" unit not a 6" 18th. Original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.
That is all I know of. and you could not fake all of this and sell a car for a mid 20's price and be worth the effort / expense.
So until someone finds the lost records from St Louis anyone buying a no base model car will be going out on a limb at little unless you are buying from the original owner.
Sounds like a very nice Corvette, if you decide to pass, please post a picture! Even if a "fake" LT-1, it might be a great deal if priced accordingly. IMHO, the key is to pay fair market price for what it actually is!
18th. Original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.
19th Great check list for a LT1. You could add No p/s in 1970 with a CTU engine. CTU had the 6 qt. oil pan. Also, plastic fan shrouds on LT1s. 6-21-18
20th. Lots of places to find this (the key is of course: is it an original stamp?)
1970 CTK, CTR, CTU CTV(ZR1)
1971 CGY(ZR1), CGZ
1972 CKY CKZ(ZR1) CRS CRT
Keep looking and you will find one, if you want one already restored, it will cost some coins, suggest you get a knowledgeable expert to look at it with you too before you plunk down your hard earned toad pelts as Bats says, ha!
Here is a good list mostly from here:5-21-2018 Here is a great list I saved from a posting here:
There are a few things that only a LT-1 would have , some are pretty easy to change out and some are not very easy at all.in no piticular order.
1st. No 1970 or 1971 LT-1 had A/C
2nd. Emission sticker on fire wall behind master cylinder should have letters AX on upper left corner for a 71.
3rd. All LT-1's are 4 speeds. (M20 was std , M21/M22 were optional)
4th. Tach has 6,500 RPM red line on 1970 & 1971 and on 72's w/o AC
5th. All 71 LT-1's came with A.I.R. system. If removed should still have manifolds with holes for the tubes, Car may have headers and if so ask to see old manifolds.
6th. LT-1's had copper radiator W/O a overflow canisiter on the passenger side fenderwell. There should also be no holes whers one had been mounted.
7th. All 70 / 71 LT-1's had Tranisitor Ign. system. That may have been removed. But if it is removed look for the 3 holes on the front face of the driver side inner fender well where the Amplifer box was mounter.
Take a flashlight and look in front of the front wheel or open hood and look at it from the front side. 2 holes on bottom and 1 on top. No TI on the 72 LT-1
8th. Should have a Winters snowflake intake manifold with casting # 3959594
for 1971 and 1972, per NCRS, 1970 should be #3972110. Both manifolds are aluminum (my addition).
9th. LT-1's had a Holley carb. so there is only 1 fuel line , no return line like a quadra-jet carb. Look along frame rail on passanger side for the single line. Also the fuel tank is different. There should be no nipple on the passanger side, side wall for a return line.
If you lay on your back under the rear wheel you can reach your hand up and feel for an indention on the passanger side. If there is a nipple that is capped off , then beware.
Also the single fuel line on a LT-1 was not the same line that was used to feed fuel on the 2 line set up. So if someone removed the return line the look of the 3/8 line is still different. Not a big difference but if you can look at a car with a 2 line set up then you can see what you do not want to find.
10th. LT-1's had solid lifters , but if the car does not then that is not to big a red flag. Many people do not like them and may have replaced with HYD. lifters during a rebuild.
11th. The hardest to fake and most expensive would be the 4 bolt main block. No # on the outside of the block can verify this.
Only way to verify is to remove the pan or have a lighted optical viewer and remove the drain plug.
12th. LT-1's use 2.5" exhaust pipes like the big block cars. But the manifolds were still 2" set up. So the pipes flair from 2 to 2.5" about 6 inches from the manifold. The exhaust hangar at the trans is also different. Look on line at the Corvette Central site and you can see both 2" and 2.5" hangars.
13th. As I recall the highest rear end gear was 3:36 if trans was a M20
And id Trans was a M21 or M22 the 3:55 was highest gear
M20 3:36 Economy
3:55 Standard
3:70 Performance
M21 / M22
3:55 Economy
3:70 Standard
4:11 Performance
14th. The 71 /71 LT-1 Aluminum valve covers should have a rubber oil cap not a twist in. These covers are very hard to find. All the catalog's sell the twist in cap style.
15th. LT-1's have the same heavy duty half shaft retainers as big block cars. look at the rear end side yokes, there should be caps with bolts. Base cars used U bolts with nuts.
16th. The rocker arms have a letter O stamped in them.
17th. The balancer on the crankshaft is an 8" unit not a 6" 18th. Original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.
That is all I know of. and you could not fake all of this and sell a car for a mid 20's price and be worth the effort / expense.
So until someone finds the lost records from St Louis anyone buying a no base model car will be going out on a limb at little unless you are buying from the original owner.
Sounds like a very nice Corvette, if you decide to pass, please post a picture! Even if a "fake" LT-1, it might be a great deal if priced accordingly. IMHO, the key is to pay fair market price for what it actually is!
18th. Original LT-1 hood would not have the holes for 454 number emblems since LT-1 decal and stencil was used.
19th Great check list for a LT1. You could add No p/s in 1970 with a CTU engine. CTU had the 6 qt. oil pan. Also, plastic fan shrouds on LT1s. 6-21-18
20th. Lots of places to find this (the key is of course: is it an original stamp?)
1970 CTK, CTR, CTU CTV(ZR1)
1971 CGY(ZR1), CGZ
1972 CKY CKZ(ZR1) CRS CRT
Last edited by 20mercury; 10-15-2018 at 02:27 PM.
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#14
There is a 71 LT1 Warbonnet roadster with original paint for sale in Florida...
Originally a Texas car asking 42k current family ownership since 1973... has had service items such as suspension bushings replaced.
nice combo of M20 3.70 and IF I am not mistaken the car is missing the smog and the original radiator has been replaced with an after market Aluminum unit.
FWIW I know of a EXTREMELY nice low mile Daytona Yellow 2 owner 70 LT1 Roadster which still has the paper sticker on radiator for 60k... I do not think it is being offered for sale publicly at this point, the car would Top flight easily and will probably triple bow tie...
Originally a Texas car asking 42k current family ownership since 1973... has had service items such as suspension bushings replaced.
nice combo of M20 3.70 and IF I am not mistaken the car is missing the smog and the original radiator has been replaced with an after market Aluminum unit.
FWIW I know of a EXTREMELY nice low mile Daytona Yellow 2 owner 70 LT1 Roadster which still has the paper sticker on radiator for 60k... I do not think it is being offered for sale publicly at this point, the car would Top flight easily and will probably triple bow tie...
Last edited by firstgenaddict; 10-26-2018 at 11:47 AM.
The following users liked this post:
bearcatfan9 (11-04-2018)
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Looking aggressively for a 1970 - 1972 LT-1 Roadster; rust free and documented
Colors: Not interested in orange or green
Colors: Not interested in orange or green
#16
IN ROADSTERS... these are the ones I know are for sale.
There is a yellow 70 in KS for 60k
A yellow 71 at Mershons for 45
There are 3 - 71 Warbonnet roadsters for sale- one in TN one in OH the one in Florida is the best of the 3 and most original at 42k.
Red 72 50k
Blue/black 72 A/C roadster 50k... needs alot of TLC
Mulsanne Blue /B blue 70 in KS 40k - frame and possible windshield frame issues
Red 72 coming up at auction in Raleigh NC in early Dec.
think a few are being auctioned later this month by Mecum.
not your colors
There is a elkhart green project 72 for 20k in I want to say MN or Iowa.
72 Orange/blk white top in atlanta
72 Orange/tan blk top in PENN
72 Orange Tan Blk hard -white soft in NC
71 Brandshatch over green- white top COLORADO 42k
You could always join the NCRS and then go on there and post looking for LT1 Roadster... will pay up to X ... see if anyone offers up.
Go to the NCRS events and make offers on cars...
If you find the color combo you prefer DO NOT THINK YOU WILL FIND THE COMBO AGAIN, pay the extra and get what you want. Red Blue Tan interiors are not common...
Iif you are looking for
silver /red silver /blue
white /red white /blue
Red /red buy the one you locate... if you locate one.
The LT1 survey done by NCRS will illustrate very quickly that the number of cars in those color combo's are severely under represented in the cars which participate.
There is a yellow 70 in KS for 60k
A yellow 71 at Mershons for 45
There are 3 - 71 Warbonnet roadsters for sale- one in TN one in OH the one in Florida is the best of the 3 and most original at 42k.
Red 72 50k
Blue/black 72 A/C roadster 50k... needs alot of TLC
Mulsanne Blue /B blue 70 in KS 40k - frame and possible windshield frame issues
Red 72 coming up at auction in Raleigh NC in early Dec.
think a few are being auctioned later this month by Mecum.
not your colors
There is a elkhart green project 72 for 20k in I want to say MN or Iowa.
72 Orange/blk white top in atlanta
72 Orange/tan blk top in PENN
72 Orange Tan Blk hard -white soft in NC
71 Brandshatch over green- white top COLORADO 42k
You could always join the NCRS and then go on there and post looking for LT1 Roadster... will pay up to X ... see if anyone offers up.
Go to the NCRS events and make offers on cars...
If you find the color combo you prefer DO NOT THINK YOU WILL FIND THE COMBO AGAIN, pay the extra and get what you want. Red Blue Tan interiors are not common...
Iif you are looking for
silver /red silver /blue
white /red white /blue
Red /red buy the one you locate... if you locate one.
The LT1 survey done by NCRS will illustrate very quickly that the number of cars in those color combo's are severely under represented in the cars which participate.
Last edited by firstgenaddict; 11-03-2018 at 01:30 PM.
The following users liked this post:
bearcatfan9 (11-04-2018)
#17
The white Red 71 Roadster at Proteam is beautiful. It is probably nicer than the Yellow 70 Roadster, though it is known and has been through all the certification processes. .
I called about the car when it was for sale for 25k in Hemmings back in 2003 ish... It was sitting on jacks in a New England Garage - IIRC no fluids in the trans or rear... had not been on it's tires or fired in 20+ years. Original everything...
I called about the car when it was for sale for 25k in Hemmings back in 2003 ish... It was sitting on jacks in a New England Garage - IIRC no fluids in the trans or rear... had not been on it's tires or fired in 20+ years. Original everything...
#19
I have a documented '71 LT-1 Roadster. rebuilt matching numbers engine, copy of window sticker. green/green. Frame off restored 17 years ago. $39,950. 479 244 5793 for more details. Stuart