Notices
C4 General Discussion General C4 Corvette Discussion not covered in Tech
Old 03-06-2015, 04:07 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: General How-Tos
Print Wikipost

things to look for when buying a c4

 
Old 08-01-2005, 10:46 AM
  #1  
lange
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
lange's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Montreal quebec
Posts: 360
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default things to look for when buying a c4

Anyone has tips like a top 5 top 10 top 8??? things to watch for carefully when buying a C4??? What are the top signs that you shouldn't buy a particular vette.

I don't mind working on the vette a bit to make it perfect but I don't want to miss a major flaw and then having to spend thousands to repair it.

About the doug nash... I only heard bad things about it. Anyone likes it???

I'm interested primarly in models between 85 and 90
lange is offline  
Old 08-01-2005, 11:22 AM
  #2  
Red Tornado
CF Senior Member
 
Red Tornado's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2002
Location: OBAMA IS HITLER
Posts: 22,210
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR WHEN BUYING A C4 CORVETTE

-Look for floppy interior door panels when you shut the door. That's an expensive fix.
-Put your hand in and feel all around the floorboard carpet. You're looking for dampness, which is bad.

-Look at the outer window seal weatherstripping. They crack after a while, and they're $60 each, and a pain in the butt to replace.

-Look for abraded fiberglass on the underside rim edges of the hood, that's where a poorly-adjusted hood is wearing itself away on the bolt heads.

-Look for floppy ears on the sun visors. That's a nuisance.

-Look for missing ashtray and coin cup inserts in the console. Look for missing lighter. Look for missing top ratchet wrench in the console.

-Look for the lug nut wrench behind the driver's seat. Look for evidence that it's been used.

-Look for shiny spots in the black 'rubberized' interior trim.

-Look for abraded leather seat bolsters and sill carpeting.

-Especially watch for worn-out carpet over the footwell speakers. This is critical, because foot-dragging in and out of the car wears them out, and they are no longer available from ANYONE. Grrr...

-Look for chunks missing out of the windshield weatherstripping. Examine the windshield seal at the very base of the windshield on the INSIDE of the car. It gets cracked and crappy.

-Look at the frame directly behind the driver's front wheel. This is directly under the battery tray, and C4s tend to rust here first, if at all. Ask to take the gill panel off if they'll let you, you'll need a 10mm wrench and a Torx set.

-Get in the car and sit in both seats, and operate ALL of the seat controls several times.

-Look in the storage compartment behind the passenger seat and check to make sure the package tray is in there.

-Check the color and condition of as many fluids as you can get to - PS, oil, tranny, coolant.

-Lie on your back and look over at the rocker panels. They get sandblasted over the years, and look worse on dark-painted cars.

-Check the parking brake for good operation. Check the hood release.

-Check the RPO codes to make sure that the car isn't missing something that should be there. Specifically, "C2L", which means that it should have BOTH tops, because it came that way.

-Run the A/C and the Heater, make sure you get both, especially with the C68 electronic climate control.

-Look for a floppy tilt steering wheel. Put the wheel down in driving position, then try to flex it downward. If it moves more than a smidge, it's going to be a problem sooner or later.

-Look around all the interior trim, A-pillars, halo trim, etc. for missing screws.

Check exhaust system for nicks and/or missing hangers(why are they missing?)

-Pull out the seat bottoms and look for anything under the seats(ie cut wires,food etc).

-check the locks in the console and hatch compartments, make sure the key you have works in those locks.

-if equipped with PKE, check all operations of it

-look for the jack, later C4's have it in the passenger side compartment in the hatch, earlier ones, in a bag within the spare tire

-check rear tire tread, low or no tread means the previous owner drove it properly.

-check wheel orientation, make sure right rear is on the right rear etc, if unsure, pull the wheel off(early C4's had the location stamped on the inside).

-make sure you have two lefts and two rights(wheels)

-check tire orientation, make sure they are rotating in proper direction.


Power seats - do they work?
Power mirrors - do they work?
Power antenna - does it work?
Look for oil leaks around the valve cover gaskets

Check the Air filter element and the casing for it


See if that optional $895 Bose stereo works and all speakers are working properly.
- Try the key in both door locks to make sure the lock is working properly.
- Make sure the digital dash is working properly, try all of the gauge readings by using the switches (i.e. temp/voltage, mileage instant/mileage avg., etc).
- Check to see if the headliner is intact and not starting to sag.
- Check the popup headlights a few times to make sure the gears are working and not sticking.





Check condition of serpentine belt.
Check condition of hoses.
Look for leak on rear diff.
Check play on all 4 wheels for possible hub bearing failure.
Check condition of glass top if equipped. Look for cracks or peeling in clear coat.

- check intake manifolds. oil leaks for all years, coolant for L98s.

- oil on the oil pan. could mean a front main or bad pan gasket.

- belt tensioners

- on 1992-93e, the belt is 2 sided, make sure it is good shape, and buy 2 when you order!

- rear window defroster. that is an annoying thing at times.



Check the DIC for proper lights with ignition is in the on position (Batt, SES, etc.). Check that ABS is active at 3mph. Pull codes to see what is in the history.

- make sure if its a 4+3 that the OD works correctly
-check the suspension for signs of wear
-make sure winsheild wipers and switch work in all speeds
-check for al interior screws

-Check for back Glass fit.

Check to make sure the stupid electronic climate control actually works, and doesn't have a mind of its own!
_______


1984-1996 Corvette Average cost to replace items:

1984-1996 Carpet without insulation backing $460/complete set

1984-1996 Carpet with insulation backing $500/complete set

1984-1996 Door Panel Carpets $50-100/pair

1984-1996 Standard Leather Seat Covers $700-750/set

1984-1996 Standard Vinyl Seat Covers $350-375/set

1984-1996 Standard Seat Foam $300/set

1984-1996 Sport Leather Seat Covers $700-750/set

1984-1996 Standard Vinyl Seat Covers $350-375/set


1984-1996 Standard Seat Foam $300/set
1984-1996 Aftermarket Acrylic Panel $1100

1984-1996 GM Restoration Part Acrylic Roof Panel $1250


1984-89 Dash Cluster Repair Usually around $1500-$1800 if repairable



General:

Q: What should I look for in a Corvette?

A: First of all, wait for the "perfect" vehicle for you. Don't rush out and buy the first vehicle you look at. You should consider all of the factors on this site and decide what you are looking for in your Corvette and what you want out of it. If you want a mint vehicle you will have to spend more money. If you want something in a reasonable price range you may have to compromise and take a few imperfections to be fixed later (see Corvette Parts for considerations.)

Q: Should I buy a Corvette as an investment?

A: Corvettes usually retain their value and early models increase in value, however there are many other investments that will give you a faster return. The webmaster believes that this vehicle should be enjoyed and not simply stuck in a garage to collect dust while hoping for a return on an investment.

Q: Should I buy a Corvette that is a real "fixer upper"?

A: The cost of restoration of a needy vehicle often exceeds the predictions of an overenthusiastic buyer. Unless you plan on doing all of the labor yourself and investing a lot of time and money, this often turns out to be more of a burden that a pleasure. This is especially true in later models where there is a large selection of vehicles to choose from that aren't so needy.

Q: Do I need to consider if the numbers match?

A: Corvettes with the original motor and original parts hold their value better than those that don't. Also vehicles with lower VIN numbers tend to be more valuable, especially in earlier models. If you are simply looking for a vehicle to enjoy and not as an investment, matching numbers aren't as high on the list of factors you should consider.

Q: Do I need to know the history of the vehicle?

A: Whenever possible try to find out the history of ownership, repairs, alterations, etc. Save all of your paperwork so that you can pass the information along when you sell the vehicle. This information can add to the value of your vehicle.

Although Corvettes tend to hold their value more than most vehicles, it is not a good idea to buy one solely as an investment. This is a vehicle that is meant to be enjoyed!!

Q: How do I know if the car I bought has it's original options?

A: RPO codes are the production codes for the vehicle. They will tell you all the factory options that the vehicle came equipped with. If you don't have a copy of the build sheet and/or window sticker, you should check to see if the option list still remains inside your car. Common placement in a C4 includes under the center console and inside the storage bins. In a C5 you can find it inside the glove box. If you cannot find this sticker inside your vehicle you can try to find the build sheet. The build sheet is the exact specifications for the vehicle including all the RPO codes, the build date and shipping destination. Starting in 1967 the build sheet was glued to the top of the gas tank. Prior to 1967 there is little documentation to prove how original a vehicle is, except to check for a manufacturing date on the parts. In C3s, the build sheet has also been found rolled up and stuffed on top of the steering column and on top the heater box. The tradition of glueing the build sheet to the gas tank continued on through the C4, but many C4s also contain more than one copy of the build sheet. Starting in 1997, on the C5 the build sheet is in the front "bumper" frame rail, the front facia must be removed to access it.

--------------------------------------------------\---------
------------------------------------------------------------

Buying a Corvette


Buying your first Corvette can be a difficult task if you're not sure what to look for. You've heard all the terms, "matching numbers", "body-off restoration", "frame-off restoration" etc. but you're not sure what they mean. Our goal here is to provide you with a little bit of knowledge before you go into the Corvette buying world and to supply you with a handy check list of items that you may want to check out the Corvette that you're interested in purchasing. Depending on options, some of the items on the list, may or may not apply to the particular Vette that you're looking at. Hopefully, we've compiled a fairly broad enough array of items to look at that will cover just about all Corvette model years.

Below, are a few of those definitions defined and we've added the checklist for you to take a look at.

Matching-Numbers: By far, this is probably the most commonly used term you will ever see when it comes to buying a Corvette. Many owners claim that their Corvettes are matching numbers, but many owners fail to have a good understanding of what the term truly means. Most parts on a Corvette come with serial numbers and date codes. Often the serial number of the part will also contain the date code in which the part was manufactured. An example would be the engine code found on the Corvette's engine block. This code can identify the engine's origin and date of manufacture. The term, "matching numbers" implies that all parts on the car are numerically correct and the date of manufacture of those parts are correct for that Corvette. For example, if you're looking at a 1969 Corvette with a 427ci. engine and the engine stamp indicates that the engine was built in early 1968, or even late 1967, that Corvette cannot be called a "matching-numbers Corvette". As parts break and need replacement, many owners, purchase the parts they believe are correct for the car, when in fact, numerically, they may not be. If you're in the market for a "numbers matching" Corvette, and you're not familiar with identifying build codes and date codes, you should probably take someone along with you that is knowledgable in that area.

Body-Off Restoration: Simply refers to the fact that the Corvette was restored and the body was removed from the frame in order to conduct a thorough restoration.

Frame-Off Restoration: Although slightly misleading, this term is the same thing as the above "Body-Off Restoration".



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

General Assessment

Model Year: ___________ Model: ___________________________ VIN: ________________________

1. Owner name: _________________________ Phone #: __________________
2. Exterior Color: _______________ Interior Color: ___________________
3. Mileage: ___________
4. Reason for selling the car? ________________________________________ _________________________
5. Documentation available? Window Sticker Build Sheet Protect-O-Plate None Miscellaneous:__________________________ ________________________________________ ______________
6. Are maintenance records available? Yes No
7. Who maintained the car and where?_______________________________
8. Are maintenance or upgrade receipts available? Yes No
9. How many previous owners have there been? _______
10. Can the former owners be contacted? Yes No
11. If so, what are their names and phone numbers?
________________________________________ ________________________________________ __
12. Is it currently registered? Yes No
13. Does it have a current inspection sticker? Yes No Will it pass state inspection? Yes No
14. Are there any modifications? Yes No List them:
________________________________________ ____________________________
15. If equipped with standard transmission, has the clutch ever been replaced? Yes No When? Where? What mileage?________________________________ ______________
16. Has the car ever been in an accident or had bodywork done? Yes No Why?
________________________________________ _______________________________________
17. Has the car been kept garaged? Yes No
18. What have been the average driving conditions? (Sun only, rain, snow?) ________________________________________ _______________
19. Does the car need anything now? Yes No If so, what? ________________________________________ ___________

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Body Condition
1. Does the car sit level? Yes No
2. Check body panels for uniformity. Pass Fail
3. Check for body damage. Look at: Wheel wells, floor pan, rear hatch (pull up carpet), front and rear valance, fenders, quarter panels, uniform body molding. Check for paint over-spray in: headlights, gas door, door jams, fender skirts, engine compartment?. Is there evidence of body damage? Yes No
4. Is the paint oxidized Yes No Some oxidation
5. Has the car ever been repainted? Yes No
6. If so, why, by whom, and how long ago? ________________________________________ ______________
7. Does sides of the car appear aligned? Yes No
8. Are there any waves or stress cracks in the fiberglass? Yes No
9. Are there any dings or stone chips in the paint? Yes No
10. Are there any cracks or chips in the windshield or side and rear glass? Yes No
11. Do the doors open and close normally? Yes No
12. Do the doors and trunk lock and unlock correctly with the key? Yes No
13. Do the doors and trunk (if applicable) lock/unlock correctly with remote key FOB (if applicable)? Yes No
14. Does the rear hatch glass open properly? Yes No From inside? Yes No
15. Do the struts hold the rear hatch? Yes No
16. Does the hood release work? Yes No
17. Does the color match the trim tag color code? Yes No
18. Are there missing badges, or moldings? Yes No

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis & Suspension
1. Are the tires in good condition? Yes No Cracked or signs of dry rot? Yes No
2. Is tire wear uniform. Yes No
3. Are the wheels stock? Yes No What type of wheels? _______________
4. Are the wheels in good condition? Yes No
5. Are the brake rotors in good condition? (check for cracks or scarring) Yes No
6. Are there any wet spots under the car? Yes No
7. Are the rubber axle boots in good condition? Yes No
8. Inspect the tie rod ends and ball joints. Pass Fail
9. Inspect the shocks. Dry Wet If the shocks appear to be wet, they may be leaking and in need of repair.
10. Is the exhaust in good condition? Yes No

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Interior Condition
1. Are all door, hatch, and top seals in good condition? Yes No
2. (If applicable) Is the ratchet wrench for the targa top there? Yes No
3. Are the seats clean? Yes No Torn or cracked? Yes No Worn? Yes No
4. Can you adjust the seats? Yes No
5. Is the carpet clean? Yes No Worn? Yes No
6. Can you adjust the mirrors? Yes No
7. Does the interior light work? Yes No Does it work with the doors? Yes No
8. Is the dash in good condition? Yes No
9. Is the center console in good condition? Yes No
10. Does the glove compartment door work properly? Yes No
11. Do the windshield wipers function properly? Yes No
12. Does the overall interior condition match the mileage? Yes No
13. If equipped, does the tilt wheel work properly? Yes No
14. If equipped does the alarm work? Yes No
15. Does the clock work? Yes No

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine Evaluation
1. What type of engine does it have? __________________________________
2. Is it original? Yes No
3. Is the oil clean? Yes No Dark or black colored oil indicates a change is necessary and may be indicative of past maintenance trends.
4. When was the last oil change? ______________ Overdue? Yes No
5. Check for a leaking oil pan gasket. Pass Fail
6. Check for a leaking front/rear main seal. Pass Fail
7. Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for leakage. Pass Fail
8. Check all coolant lines for leakage. Pass Fail
9. Check the coolant in the reservoir. A brown frothy mixture in the reservoir usually indicates oil and water mixing in the oil filter/cooler housing. Pass Fail
10. Inspect the fuel lines going to the fuel rail for brittleness or cracking. Pass Fail
11. Inspect the plug wires for brittleness or cracking. Pass Fail
12. Inspect the brake fluid for color. Black colored brake fluid indicates a change is necessary. Pass Fail
13. Is the air filter clean? Pass Fail
14. Is the engine bay clean and neat? All hoses / wiring in correct place? Pass Fail

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine Operation
1. Does the car start properly? Yes No
2. The car should have a steady idle. Pass Fail
3. (If equipped) Check the ECM (computer)? Engine Codes recorded? Pass Fail
If so, what are the codes? __________________________________
4. Is the oil pressure normal? Pass Fail
5. Engine coolant temperature: Normal? Yes No High? Yes No Fluctuating? Yes No Fluctuating coolant temperature may be indicative of a necessary water pump replacement.
6. Is there valve chatter or excessive engine noise? Yes No
7. Is there excessive engine vibration at idle or revving? (can indicate bad motor mount). Yes No
8. With the engine running, listen for leaks at the exhaust manifolds and exhaust. Pass Fail
9. Does the heat work? Yes No
10. Does the AC work? Yes No Is the compressor quiet? Yes No
11. Does the AC / heater blow at each speed? Yes No
12. Does the radio work properly (tape and CD if applicable)? Yes No
13. If equipped, does the power antenna work? Yes No
14. If equipped, do the power windows and door locks work? Yes No
15. Does the defroster work properly? Yes No
16. Do all ***** / controls function correctly? Yes No
17. Do all of the gauges / dashboard lights work properly? Yes No

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Test Drive Evaluation
1. Does the parking brake work properly? Yes No
2. How does the brake pedal feel? Firm Soft
The following 3 questions assume manual transmission:
3. How does the clutch pedal feel? Firm Soft
4. Does the clutch operate in a smooth quiet manner? Yes No
5. Does the shifter seem tight? Yes No
6. Are there any squeaks / noises (specially over rough roads)? Yes No
7. Is the steering smooth and responsive? Yes No
8. When going straight is the wheel straight? Yes No Does the car drift to one side? Yes No
9. Brake with your hands off the wheel does the car stop straight? Yes No
10. At highway speeds does the car pull, or shake / shimmy? Yes No
11. Does the cruise control work properly? Yes No
12. Is there exceptional wind noise? Yes No
13. If equipped, does the ABS system function properly? Yes No
14. If equipped, does the Traction control system function properly? Yes No
15. If equipped, does the Selective Ride Control function properly? Yes No

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Miscellaneous
1. Is the battery in good condition? Yes No
2. Do all lights / signals work correctly? Headlights?, (high and low beams), Yes No Brake lights: Yes No Parking/Side Marker Lights: Yes No Turn Signals: Yes No
Standard Equipment: ________________________________________ _______________________
________________________________________ _______________________
Optional Equipment: ________________________________________ ___________________________
________________________________________ ___________________________

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Price / Value
Asking Price: _____________
Retail Value: _____________ Trade-In Value: _____________
Notes:
________________________________________ ________________________________________
________________________________________ ________________________________________
________________________________________ ________________________________________
________________________________________ ________________________________________
________________________________________ ________________________________________
________________________________________ ________________________________________
________________________________________ ________________________________________
________________________________________ ________________________________________
Red Tornado is offline  
Old 08-01-2005, 01:47 PM
  #3  
filmelf
CF Senior Member
 
filmelf's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Los Angeles California
Posts: 1,274
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
St. Jude Donor '06-'08
Default Check this too

Look at the radiator to see how clogged it is. They are a pain because they clog up fast and with junk you'd never believe. The Fan shroud is a pain should you need to pull the radiator. To wash the radiator; its best to do so from the back.

Hoped that was of use.

Polo Green 1993 LT-1 Porshe killer.
filmelf is offline  
Old 08-01-2005, 04:32 PM
  #4  
lange
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
lange's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Montreal quebec
Posts: 360
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

thanks a lot for all the info, this is going to be real valuable.

I'm just starting looking for a vette. But when I finally make a choice, I'll tell you.
lange is offline  
Old 08-01-2005, 06:42 PM
  #5  
silverja
CF Senior Member
 
silverja's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: White Oak PA
Posts: 1,494
Thanked 13 Times in 11 Posts
Default Prepurchase Information



Check this link out:

Clcik here for prepurchase info
silverja is offline  
Old 08-01-2005, 10:34 PM
  #6  
tonymax2
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Dec 2003
Location: MidOhio
Posts: 1,182
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Hot Rod 90
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR WHEN BUYING A C4 CORVETTE........
Q: Do I need to consider if the numbers match?

A: .... Also vehicles with lower VIN numbers tend to be more valuable, especially in earlier models. If you are simply looking for a vehicle to enjoy and not as an investment, matching numbers aren't as high on the list of factors you should consider........

Whyzatte? I always figured I'd rather have a late build car, especially if there were a lot of new features added that year on the assumption (provable) that "nobody gets it right the first time". On '89's, the late-mid and late cars have a slower steering ratio than the early build cars. That may be a consideration for some-it is for me.
tonymax2 is offline  
Old 08-01-2005, 11:43 PM
  #7  
Hogan
CF Senior Member
 
Hogan's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2002
Location: First to Sign Grumpy's Hat Only 53 miles from Hell
Posts: 19,149
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
St. Jude Donor '06-'09-'10-'11
Default

Ummmm, what they said!!!!
Hogan is offline  
Old 08-02-2005, 12:07 AM
  #8  
richdwyer
CF Senior Member
 
richdwyer's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2004
Location: Evansville IN
Posts: 178
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

For a stick shift, go for 89 or newer so you get the zf6 speed. If it comes with the fx3 ride control, people tend to remove the bulb if the system does not work, so make sure when you turn ignition on, the light for the system comes on and then goes off signifying it went through and passed self check. Shocks for the fx3 system run about $200 each and about $300 for the actuator for each shock. Good luck and take your time looking. Rich
richdwyer is offline  
Old 08-02-2005, 01:10 AM
  #9  
cuisinartvette
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Valencia Ca.
Posts: 67,530
Thanked 1,072 Times in 985 Posts
St. Jude Donor '05
Default

Holy schmoly Hot Rod 90! Is that it?
cuisinartvette is offline  
Old 08-02-2005, 02:55 AM
  #10  
Rick86
CF Senior Member
 
Member Since: Nov 2000
Posts: 855
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I know there has been a lot of valueble information given, but the one thing I haven't seen is knowing the differences between the years. For example 1984-1987 used same offset wheels while 1988 up use a different offset so you can upgrade to later model wheels if you choose. Also 1988 up wheel are 17". 1986 late and all 1986 Verts came with Aluminum heads, but 1988 has the D-port aluminum heads 1985-1989 used MAF sensor and 1990 and up L98s used MAP sensor. 1987 up came with roller cams. I'm sure there are alot of other things this was just to get you thinking. Happy hunting.
Rick86 is offline  
Old 08-02-2005, 11:03 AM
  #11  
mikey whipreck
CF Senior Member
 
mikey whipreck's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,022
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

I think it was mentioned, but I feel like I need to stress it:

If it's an early (84-89) C4 make sure the digital dash works.

And if it's a later C4 (92-96), ask if or when the the opti/water pump was replaced.
mikey whipreck is offline  
Old 08-02-2005, 11:36 AM
  #12  
lange
CF Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
lange's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Montreal quebec
Posts: 360
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

thanks for all the info... continue posting your tips, it's very valuable to me.

a newbie question... can anyone post a pic of a 84-86 vette with the wheels installed properly. I have seen lately vettes where a left and right wheel on the same side or where they seem to be all on the wrong side.

I'd like to really be sure of how the wheel is suppose to look like mounted on the side it's suppose to be.

thanks again.

I've been wanting a vette since 1986 when I was 11. I know a lot about them but I don't have the knowledge that you have when you actually own and pamper one. I'm am now finally looking to owning one... but I'm not in a hurry so thanks for your help everyone, I'm learning a lot.

When i finally buy one, i'm sure I'll meet some of you in a couple of meets in the US, even though I'm in canada
lange is offline  
Old 08-02-2005, 12:33 PM
  #13  
mikey whipreck
CF Senior Member
 
mikey whipreck's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,022
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Default

This pic is from before I polished my wheels. My '85 has very similar wheels to an '86- just with black accents instead of grey ones.



mikey whipreck is offline  
Old 08-05-2005, 01:55 AM
  #14  
Aidoneus
CF Member
 
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Maple Grove Minnesota
Posts: 98
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

I think a special thanks should be given to HoT Rod 90!! That was a hell of a post, what'd you spend an hour typing it? I'm not even looking for a new C4, but I'm going to print that post for safekeeping! Thanks!
Aidoneus is offline  
Old 08-05-2005, 03:04 AM
  #15  
Mr. Peabody
CF Senior Member
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Mr. Peabody's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 6,944
Thanked 145 Times in 128 Posts
Default

check rear tire tread, low or no tread means the previous owner drove it properly.

Yes, that's a good one
Mr. Peabody is offline  
Old 08-05-2005, 11:21 PM
  #16  
Webineer
CF Senior Member
 
Webineer's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Baltimore Maryland
Posts: 132
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Can you expand on this a bit
"-Look for a floppy tilt steering wheel. Put the wheel down in driving position, then try to flex it downward. If it moves more than a smidge, it's going to be a problem sooner or later."

My 91 is doing just what you said here, What is the problem and the fix?
Thanks,
Webineer is offline  
Old 08-06-2005, 12:06 AM
  #17  
richdwyer
CF Senior Member
 
richdwyer's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2004
Location: Evansville IN
Posts: 178
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=264&TopicID=2

Bogus did this tech tip for fixing steering wheel flop
richdwyer is offline  
Old 08-06-2005, 06:19 AM
  #18  
aggie88
CF Senior Member
 
aggie88's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2002
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 1,519
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default My C4 Experiences

I have owned 2 used ones, a 86 with 4+3, and a 95 with 6 speed.

On the 86:
Alternator - common failure item.
MAF Relay - located behind the battery, common failure item, causes ENGINE light and codes
Cold/hot start - finicky about starting when not warmed up, you know start cold is fine, but if run a short time, restart took some cranking
BOSE - listen for any crackling/hiss in the stereo when the car is OFF! There is a relay behind the center dash area that is prone to shorting and leaves the amps on - drains the battery.
Cracks - check around the door sill area where the striker bolt is for cracks in the fiberglass, mine had the Z51 stiff springs.
Steering rack - Mine had the higher ratio (2 turns lock to lock) and started dripping at the center with about 50k miles.
Keys - make sure they turn the alarm on and off in both doors, I had a switch break on the drivers side. Can open door, but could not activate/deactivate alarm.
Shift **** - the 4+3 button plate pops off easily
Lumbar Support - Mine had sport seats, the lumbar air bladders never worked
Power antenna - never worked


On the 95:
Coolant leaks - check around the water pump area for any accumulation of sludge from a slow coolant leak, any moisture may have gotten into the OptiSpark distributor below, common failure item esp on the earlier LT1 engines
Wheel bearings - in the rear, there was popping noise when intiating from a start, dealer replaced/greased rear wheel bearings under warranty
Wheels - center caps are plastic and may discolor or finish "tarnish"
Wheel locks - if equipped make sure you have the key
A/C - R134A system started leaking around 40k miles (7 years old), replaced AC compressor - also crawl under and look up into the front air intake to check for debris and condition of radiator and AC condensor.
Clear top - look for fine cracks in the tint, may indicate crack in the glass itself
Overall the 95 was a great car - not too much trouble even at 10 years old. I miss that ride!

Last edited by aggie88; 08-06-2005 at 06:42 AM.
aggie88 is offline  
Old 08-06-2005, 12:02 PM
  #19  
mash2k
CF Senior Member
 
mash2k's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: Tallmadge Ohio
Posts: 143
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Webineer
Can you expand on this a bit
"-Look for a floppy tilt steering wheel. Put the wheel down in driving position, then try to flex it downward. If it moves more than a smidge, it's going to be a problem sooner or later."

My 91 is doing just what you said here, What is the problem and the fix?
Thanks,
I just repaired this problem on my '91. There is an aluminum sleeve that is held in place by steel pins in the steering column that wears the aluminum out creating "slop" in the tilt wheel. The part is over $500 new so Bob at RPM Restorations installed a complete used column from Vette2Vette. Still cost me nearly $600 with labor but it is now slop free.
I could have lived with the 1/4 inch of movement but my turn signal stalk was also broken so I just went ahead and have him fix it since the wheel, airbag, etc had to be removed anyway. Certainly not cheap.
mash2k is offline  
Old 08-06-2005, 02:29 PM
  #20  
Webineer
CF Senior Member
 
Webineer's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Baltimore Maryland
Posts: 132
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default Loose Column

It sounds like swapping a column could be a way to go. Nothing is cheap on these cars. I guess thats good and bad.
Webineer is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: things to look for when buying a c4


Sponsored Ads
Vendor Directory

Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: