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Targa Top Glue/Adhesive Questions

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Old 06-18-2006, 10:48 AM
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j3studio
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Default Targa Top Glue/Adhesive Questions

As some of you know, my targa top glass is lifting from its front supports.

Does anyone know what kind of glue or adhesive is used to secure the targa top to the front supports?

Is this something that I could do with my moderate mechanical skills or would I be better off getting a professional to do this?
Old 06-18-2006, 11:03 AM
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aminnich
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Originally Posted by j3studio
As some of you know, my targa top glass is lifting from its front supports.

Does anyone know what kind of glue or adhesive is used to secure the targa top to the front supports?

Is this something that I could do with my moderate mechanical skills or would I be better off getting a professional to do this?
Deja vu. Take it to auto glass shop
Old 06-18-2006, 01:28 PM
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bogus
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John,

The right way to fix this is to remove the acrylic/lexan material, clean all the surface areas and reglue.

Considering your desire to maintain originality, this sound like a job for a considered professional.

I would contact several good glass shops in your area, explain the problem, hell, visit them, and then see if they can repair it.

There is a metal lead strip that trims the top, I am not sure how it goes on tho... and what all it really does.

I would expect that repairing the clear material will require replacing the seals... just warning you in advance.

Essentially, this is a complete reclaimation of the targa.

I also suggest you get the right seals... search out GM NOS (GM changed the make up of the stripping to a better quality product for 1995 or 1996, I don't know if you will find the original 1985 junk anymore... or if you would REALLY want to). If nothing else, Corvette-Rubber is very good.

Whatever you do, don't get the cheap Indian knockoff junk. It's good foam, just poor fit.
Old 06-18-2006, 01:38 PM
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j3studio
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Originally Posted by bogus
The right way to fix this is to remove the acrylic/lexan material, clean all the surface areas and reglue.

Considering your desire to maintain originality, this sound like a job for a considered professional.

I would contact several good glass shops in your area, explain the problem, hell, visit them, and then see if they can repair it.

There is a metal lead strip that trims the top, I am not sure how it goes on tho... and what all it really does.

I would expect that repairing the clear material will require replacing the seals... just warning you in advance.

Essentially, this is a complete reclaimation of the targa.

I also suggest you get the right seals... search out GM NOS (GM changed the make up of the stripping to a better quality product for 1995 or 1996, I don't know if you will find the original 1985 junk anymore... or if you would REALLY want to). If nothing else, Corvette-Rubber is very good.

Whatever you do, don't get the cheap Indian knockoff junk. It's good foam, just poor fit.
Thanks, Andy! More expensive news...

Old 06-18-2006, 02:39 PM
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Another option, is contact Melrose see what they charge to re-seal the lens.

melroset-tops.com
Old 06-18-2006, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jet-Jock
Another option, is contact Melrose see what they charge to re-seal the lens.

melroset-tops.com
Don't worry - I will definitely be talking to them tomorrow. Depending on what the cost of repair is, I might see if they can do a correct repro (date codes, etc.).
Old 06-19-2006, 10:57 AM
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Anybody else have any more suggestions/data/experiences before I spend the kilobucks?
Old 06-19-2006, 11:47 AM
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I have been thinking about this...

You need some serious adhesive to hold this together... and great care getting it in there.

I am wondering if you can pry up on the leading edge of the top and squeeze some windshield glue in there.
Old 06-19-2006, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bogus
I am wondering if you can pry up on the leading edge of the top and squeeze some windshield glue in there.
Hmmm...
Old 06-19-2006, 01:04 PM
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John,
If you send it out and would like a loaner top I can help with that!
Old 06-19-2006, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Rex Ruby
If you send it out and would like a loaner top I can help with that!
Thanks, John...

...I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to do. 'Management' did clear the expense - something about a new kitchen she's happy with.

Old 06-19-2006, 01:53 PM
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I have the same problem on my car. The front edge on the passenger side is about 1/4" lifted from the frame. I tried glueing it two years ago but the glue has turned out to not be robust enough. It was easy to glue, then use rags under clamps to hold it together. I remember a post a long time back stateing the correct glue to use. Maybe an auto glass place would have some in stock, that's what I am looking into next.
Old 06-19-2006, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
I have the same problem on my car. The front edge on the passenger side is about 1/4" lifted from the frame. I tried glueing it two years ago but the glue has turned out to not be robust enough. It was easy to glue, then use rags under clamps to hold it together. I remember a post a long time back stateing the correct glue to use. Maybe an auto glass place would have some in stock, that's what I am looking into next.
Thanks for detailing your experience, Andrew. Useful information...

Last edited by j3studio; 06-19-2006 at 02:15 PM.
Old 06-19-2006, 02:31 PM
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Would weatherstrip adhesive work or is it not strong enough?
Old 06-19-2006, 02:42 PM
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BADDUCK
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Call a auto glass shop and see if they have what you need. Let your fingers do the walking!
Old 06-19-2006, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by j3studio
Would weatherstrip adhesive work or is it not strong enough?
No, don't think so, not for this anyways. I feel certain the following will work, but you need to be very carefull not to break the glass and will need to spend about $5. Get a tube of clear 100% (marine grade some call it) silicone from Home Depot in a caulking tube. Also some 2" masking tape. Run masking tape across the inside of the glass where extra silicone may ooze out. Separate the glass from the frame as much as you safely can, then run a bead of silicone in the gap. Lay the top on a good flat surface and put some weights on it (not sure how much weight, again you do not want to crack the glass). Let it sit for at least 24 hrs 48 is even better. Trim off any extra silicone and pull off the masking tape. You will be surprised at the holding power of the silicone and I am sure it will hold up for you.
Old 06-19-2006, 07:28 PM
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I think that is what I used, the silicone. I looked through different glues and it showed it being used on tops. For me it only stuck down for two years. I can check out in the shop for the exate name of what I used, a little later on. BTW I used wood working clamps, the kind that slide and lock down. There were no marks on the roof, I let it dry for two days.

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Old 05-09-2014, 10:45 PM
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brightmetalmark
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I noticed that a lot of these posts are eight years old. I recently purchased a 1994 c4 and my acrylic top is lifting on the passenger side. I should be able to pry the entire top off the frame and clean the mating surfaces as well but would would like to make this a one time fix if possible. My question is are there any glues out there now in 2014 that would be ideal for this procedure??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old 05-10-2014, 01:05 AM
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Cliff Harris
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I bookmarked this post a while back. It looks like a good fix:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/c4-tec...op-reglue.html
Old 05-10-2014, 01:39 AM
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Hot Rod Roy
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Originally Posted by brightmetalmark
I noticed that a lot of these posts are eight years old. I recently purchased a 1994 c4 and my acrylic top is lifting on the passenger side. I should be able to pry the entire top off the frame and clean the mating surfaces as well but would would like to make this a one time fix if possible. My question is are there any glues out there now in 2014 that would be ideal for this procedure??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
You would probably have received better responses if you had started a new thread, rather than pulling up this 8 year old one. As this old thread has stated, the RTV adhesives aren't permanent fixes. You are right, the top needs to be completely removed from the frame, the old adhesive removed, and new adhesive used for the rebuild. I did this several years ago, and I've had no problems! I can't find the post I did at that time.
I used Dow Betaseal U-418, which is the professional urethane adhesive used for new car glue-in windshields. Before you strip the acrylic top from the frame, mark the alignment of the top to the frame with masking tape at several locations on the inside of the top. Force a narrow putty knife thru the bond area to separate the top from the frame. Clean off the old adhesive. Turn the top upside down on a table and review the alignment of the frame to the top. Don't do this on the car, because the bond line will not be a thin as what you want! Work with the top upside down on a table. Apply the adhesive, set the frame in place, and very lightly clamp the frame to the top.
You may want to adjust the height of the four corner mounting brackets in the car, because your new top may fit tighter than before the rebuild! Be careful of the front fit, because if you'll notice, as you tighten the front bolts, you're pulling hard on the acrylic top against the front weatherstrip. If this is too tight, you'll be stressing the bond more than neccessary. You should be able to tighten the bolts all the way, without overstressing the bond line, or cracking the top!!



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