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Breaking nightmare

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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 11:52 AM
  #1  
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From: Chandler Az
Default Breaking nightmare

Ever sice i bought my corvette the breaks have never been that good.
My truck can stop faster, so i started looking at things and figured it was my break booster. (didnt hold any vacume) Well i replaced that.
and after bleeding the breaks...starting at the abs in the back then rr..lr..and so on..i finished up and drove around the block. Breaking did improve but it doesnt seem like its right...i still can stop faster in my truck as it seems...

whats another thing i should look at??
whats the right way to bleed the breaks??
should i just take it to the dealer?

thanks
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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I always hate bleeding brakes, but you start in the back with passenger side, then back drivers side, front passenger side then drivers side..need two people, just gotta make sure you get all the air out.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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well thats the way i did it. but i started with the abs..then the rr..lr..rf..lf..
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Does your truck also have ABS?
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 02:59 PM
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Rotors, pads not glazed? Lines not bulging, holding pressure? All calipers working, stops in straight line, too? Fluid's new (you must've put in new fluid)? What pads, if you can tell/recall--could they be racing pads--which need lots of heat? Does it work better after several stops? Tire pressures ok? How's the master?
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rick lambert
I always hate bleeding brakes, but you start in the back with passenger side, then back drivers side, front passenger side then drivers side..need two people, just gotta make sure you get all the air out.

Though i'd read that it was the RR, RF, LR, LF...
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by vinnies87
Though i'd read that it was the RR, RF, LR, LF...
Depends. For '96 you are right (RR, LR, etc.). Maybe diff for diff years????
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 07:10 PM
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Default brakes

Originally Posted by rick lambert
I always hate bleeding brakes, but you start in the back with passenger side, then back drivers side, front passenger side then drivers side..need two people, just gotta make sure you get all the air out.
I replaced everything on my 84,hoses,calipers,shoes,booster,m/cylind.,rotors,and they are still "bad". Really have to lean on the pedal to make it stop;and sometimes it will creep in traffic if I'm not careful. Don't know what else to do. I sometimes wonder if the metal booster is working,[had plastic before and the old brakes were better than these,and I wonder if the crossfire intake makes enough boost] I think I have to find somewhere to check these out.Any ideas?
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:06 PM
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From: Chandler Az
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there is a guy that works at the chevy dealer that lives behind me..i think ill ask him to take it in and see what they come up with...or some break shop...

my abs and asr lights come on the second or third time i break...
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by volume351
there is a guy that works at the chevy dealer that lives behind me..i think ill ask him to take it in and see what they come up with...or some break shop...

my abs and asr lights come on the second or third time i break
...
That's not right. ck the FSM; see what it says about that, if it does.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 04:46 AM
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um...sorry but i have no idea what the fsm is...
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by LT4CompYell
Depends. For '96 you are right (RR, LR, etc.). Maybe diff for diff years????
It really doesn't matter at all.



FSM = Helm (Factory GM Service Manual)


If your booster pushrod is not adjusted out correctly, you won't get as much booster assist.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by volume351
there is a guy that works at the chevy dealer that lives behind me..i think ill ask him to take it in and see what they come up with...or some break shop...

my abs and asr lights come on the second or third time i break...
Usually a sign of air in the system.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 10:11 AM
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whats another thing i should look at??
master cylinder bleeding by

whats the right way to bleed the breaks??
rr,lr,rf,lf All air must be removed

should i just take it to the dealer?
Not yet...Does the pedal feel spongy? Does it give when you hold it depressed? Do you have a firm pedal?


Someone else mentioned glazing on your pads, that's a good call as well.

Good Luck, Larry
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 03:12 PM
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no the pedal is ferm it just doesnt have power...i will bleed them again...

does anyone know if your need to bleed the abs thing a ma jig in the rear compartment?
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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I replaced a bad booster once, and the replacement was also bad. I returned that, got another, which was also bad.

Don't assume the new or reman parts are good.
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
I replaced a bad booster once, and the replacement was also bad. I returned that, got another, which was also bad.

Don't assume the new or reman parts are good.

yea my first one was bad...then my second one was bad...now this ones good...im going to bleed the breaks again..
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 12:58 AM
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Update?
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 01:30 AM
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We're all here to teach and to learn. In that spirit -
break - what happens when you drop something.
brake - what happens when you push the pedal next to the long skinny one.
Please do not take offense, but accept in the manner given.
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 02:32 AM
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(And once again, the order you bleed them does not matter.)


And don't forget to adjust the play out of the booster pushrod.
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