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Ride on the vette isn't as smooth as it should be I believe. I can feel every little bump, and rough roads are causing my car to swerve a bit. I'm thinking this means I need new gas shocks. I'm approaching 117k miles and I'm assuming that the original gas shocks are on there. Any recommendations on what brand to get? I want I nice smooth ride and am not worried about performance. If I can have the best of both worlds, that would be great. I'm thinking KYB Gas shocks all around would be good. Any suggestions?
Also how difficult is the install. From the Haynes Manual, it looks like a simple bolt on procedure.
The KYB Gas-A-Just shocks are a good replacement shock for a smooth ride and also a great value.
While the Haynes manual says it's not a difficult job (and it's really not ), the Haynes manual is best used like the old Sears catalogs in outhouses.
You can actually R&R the front shocks without jacking the car up or removing the wheels. There are two bolts on the lower control arm and the nut on the top of the shock rod. Remove the two lower bolts and the upper nut and pull the old shock out. You will have to compress the new front shocks to get them in place but it's not too hard to do. Torque the lower bolts to 22 ft-lbs and tighten the upper nut until the top rubber bushing begins to swell to the edge of the steel retainer.
You will have to remove the rear wheels to get to the rear shocks but the removal is straightforward. When you install the new shock, the lower nut has to be torqued with the suspension at ride height. You can simply raise the knuckle with a floor jack and tighten the nut to spec.
Its a vette, not a caddy,,, LOL... yea the millage is up there if they are origional shocks... Shock replacement is not a hard process... just use good safety measures, jackstands, etc... use PBlaster for the nuts, just soak overnite.... torque to specs....and if your going to continue to wrench, get the FSM for your vette, best investment, and use the haynes for a good door stop
I'd buy the cheapest shocks I could find, you won't notice the difference. On a scale of 1-10 I would rate the shock change a 1.
Passenger side sparks plugs rate a 4. That would be plug 6 and 8 unless you have small circus hands. Then probably only a 2.5.
I'm assuming that the original gas shocks are on there. Any recommendations on what brand to get? I want I nice smooth ride and am not worried about performance. If I can have the best of both worlds, that would be great. I'm thinking KYB Gas shocks all around would be good. Any suggestions?
Also how difficult is the install. From the Haynes Manual, it looks like a simple bolt on procedure.
Not sure what year yours is. But the original shocks are probably yellow Bilstiens, with a "Delco" emblem on them.
Here's a few pics from my '88 Helms manual, I used this as a guide.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
It will go a lot faster if you remove the wheels one at a time and put them back. Also get one of those sockets to fit the top of the front shock rod. Squirt WD on everything the night before. KYB's will be fine if you are not trying to keep the car original. Try www.ajusa.com or www.shockwarehouse.com
It will go a lot faster if you remove the wheels one at a time and put them back. Also get one of those sockets to fit the top of the front shock rod. Squirt WD on everything the night before. KYB's will be fine if you are not trying to keep the car original. Try www.ajusa.com or www.shockwarehouse.com
where do i get this socket that goes on the top of the front shock rod. i'm trying to tighten the front shock with a vise-grip and an open end wrench and it only works to certain point.
I'd buy the cheapest shocks I could find, you won't notice the difference. On a scale of 1-10 I would rate the shock change a 1.
Passenger side sparks plugs rate a 4. That would be plug 6 and 8 unless you have small circus hands. Then probably only a 2.5.
That's funny you mentioned this, because I just changed the plugs yesterday, and to get to 6 and 8 I had to remove the wheel and fender well covers, and other circus acts to get those in. #4 was giving me problems as well. I finally got done about a thousand curse words later. Was my first time so the second time around should be smooth sailing.
Its a vette, not a caddy,,, LOL... yea the millage is up there if they are origional shocks... Shock replacement is not a hard process... just use good safety measures, jackstands, etc... use PBlaster for the nuts, just soak overnite.... torque to specs....and if your going to continue to wrench, get the FSM for your vette, best investment, and use the haynes for a good door stop
Well I assume if they got delco on them they probably are. Just ordered them through summit, there were about $150 for all 4. I'll look for the PBlaster. I do have WD-40 on hand. The Haynes manual does have nice illustrations and has helped some what. I have run out of TP so I may just use it for that instead. This forum sure has helped me more than the Haynes that's for sure. The FSM are awfully expensive from what I hear. If you guys got the FSM on pdf, let me know
That's funny you mentioned this, because I just changed the plugs yesterday, and to get to 6 and 8 I had to remove the wheel and fender well covers, and other circus acts to get those in. #4 was giving me problems as well. I finally got done about a thousand curse words later. Was my first time so the second time around should be smooth sailing.
I think I have the plugs down to a science... I had to replace my wires and cap today, decided to do the plugs too.... got it all done in 15 minutes. No joke.
But, I also have had this car apart about 6 times in the past 2 months.
Well myself and my father and law tried this over the weekend. Bad luck I tell ya. Couldn't get the drivers side front center cap off. Then we couldn't get the lug nuts loosened. Took to a shop and they loosened the lug nuts and we got the front passeneger shock on with out too much trouble. We then attempted the rear shock and couldn't get the damn bolt on the lower shock arm removed. After 3 hours with all the trips etc and we only got one shock on, we gave up. I had it scheduled to have an alignment and the tires balanced, so I'm just going to have them install them. I really wanted to do this myself, but just became a hassle. Oh well better luck next project for me.
Well myself and my father and law tried this over the weekend. Bad luck I tell ya. Couldn't get the drivers side front center cap off. Then we couldn't get the lug nuts loosened. Took to a shop and they loosened the lug nuts and we got the front passeneger shock on with out too much trouble. We then attempted the rear shock and couldn't get the damn bolt on the lower shock arm removed.
Yes, we had a breaker bar, but just didn't seem to have enough clearance between the bottom of the shock and the floor to get enough torque. Could be we just didn't have it the car jacked up high enough. My FIL seemed real uneasy jacking the car up. We jacked it up using the jack points, but he kept saying it just didn't seem a good place to jack the car up. I asked several questions here on the forum before we started. If I had all the tools I needed, I might try the rest myself, but I just want to get it done at this point.
. Could be we just didn't have it the car jacked up high enough. My FIL seemed real uneasy jacking the car up. We jacked it up using the jack points, but he kept saying it just didn't seem a good place to jack the car up. .
As far as jacking goes; take a good look underneath the car at the frame. Follow the frame with your eyes. The C4 is an easy car to jack up & place jack stands.
When I got my C6, I couldn't believe it was more difficult than my C4 to place jack stands under.
I'm able to successfully and safely jack the car up from the center of the vehicle on both sides of the car. This allows me to easily stick the jack stands on the frame near the rear (just in front of the tire) and in nearly the same location on the front end.
Also, if you need more torque on your breaker bar, grab a 3 foot piece of pipe and use it as a cheater bar. PB blaster soaking might help too.
Hi, is there a major quality difference between KYB Gas-A-Just and the basic AC Delco? All things being equal which is better (subjective, of course). Thanks, Larry; for a '92, used for regular driving.
I installed the KYB's on my '93 w/55K miles. It took me longer to jack the car up and then put it back on the ground than it did to replace the shocks.
I bought Rustoleum Hard Hat Yellow spray paint and painted the KYB's with it. Looks just like the O.E. shocks. Minus the labels of course.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
Originally Posted by larryabbott
Hi, is there a major quality difference between KYB Gas-A-Just and the basic AC Delco? All things being equal which is better (subjective, of course). Thanks, Larry; for a '92, used for regular driving.