91 Service ride control light, What's up with that?
06-26-2007, 08:03 PM
#1
Racer
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91 Service ride control light, What's up with that?
Every time i start my 91 vette, a "service ride control" suspension light comes on and stays on for about 2 minutes then cuts off, what's up with that? and if this isn't normal how do i correct it? or what maintenance must i perform on my suspension to correct this sisuation?
thanks boonie
thanks boonie
06-26-2007, 08:24 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
You have FX3 Suspension. Either one of your shocks gears is bad or broken or one of your shock actuators gears that sits on top of the shock is broken also. There's a code to retrieve it but I can't remember at the moment.
This guy fixed my actuators so I didn't have to buy new one's.
http://captainzcnc.com/index.html
This guy fixed my actuators so I didn't have to buy new one's.
http://captainzcnc.com/index.html
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CVG323 (06-30-2018)
06-26-2007, 09:12 PM
#3
Instructor
You have FX3 Suspension. Either one of your shocks gears is bad or broken or one of your shock actuators gears that sits on top of the shock is broken also. There's a code to retrieve it but I can't remember at the moment.
This guy fixed my actuators so I didn't have to buy new one's.
http://captainzcnc.com/index.html
This guy fixed my actuators so I didn't have to buy new one's.
http://captainzcnc.com/index.html
06-26-2007, 09:51 PM
#4
Team Owner
I grabbed this from an old post I had replied to:
This applied to my 92 and came from the 92 FSM. You should be able to retrieve the code srom your 91 by jumpering the same pins in the ALDL.
Post the error codes you get and we can go from there. The fact that the SRC light goes out after a couple minutes is interesting. It may be that a shock gear is damaged but not yet broken or an actuator has some sort of wiriing problem. For most of the codes, the SRC light will remain on as long as a problem is detected.
The system does a self-check everytime the ignition is turned and the car moves. But as I mentioned above, if you cycle the ignition switch (starting the engine or not) three times without the car moving, the SRC light will come on for a short time and a Code 23 is set. But in this case, the light would go off as soon as any forward speed is detected.
FX3 Diagnostics
To clear FX3 codes, turn the ignition to Run but don't start the car. With a small paperclip, jump pins A and C on the ALDL (in the upper left corner of the driver' side knee bolster). These pins are on the upper row and are lettered in this fashion as you look at them: E D C B A
To clear the codes, you must jump the pins for two seconds doing it for a total of three times.
To display the codes (which is simply a series of flashes of the SRC message) jump the pins and turn the ignition to Run and watch the SRC message lamp.
Codes are two digit values and the sequence always begins and ends with a code "12". The SRC light flashes based on each integer of the code and the code repeats three times with a couple of seconds between each code value. For example a Code 12 flashes like this:
12= blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink
(there is a about a half second "/" pause between each of the three code intergers)
A code 32 is:
32= blink blink blink, blink blink (and repeats twice more)
After all of the codes have been displayed there is a final code 12 and the sequence repeats until you either pull the jumper or turn the ignition off
Heres the code meanings:
Code 12 = Start of sequence
Code 13 = Left Rear Time Out (possible bad actuator)
Code 14 = Right Front Time Out (same)
Code 21 = Left Front Time Out (same)
Code 22 = Right Rear Time Out (same)
Code 23 = Loss of vehicle speed signal (this code will appear if the ignition switch is cycled On/OFF three times without the vehicle moving. Once the vehicle moves and there are no other codes the SRC light will go OFF but this code remains in history)
Code 31 = Left Front Out of Position (maybe broken gear on shock rod)
Code 32 = Right Front Out of Position (same)
Code 33 = Left Rear Out of Position (same)
Code 34 = Right Rear Out of position (same)
Code 41 = SRC Switch short to Voltage
Code 42 = SRC SWitch open contacts (console switch not positioned at one of the three detents
Code 43 = SRC switch citrcuit open.
Give this a try and report what codes you get. Remember, a Code 12 sarts the sequence and also ends it. Any other codes are repeated three times before the next code is displayed.
Last edited by c4cruiser : 11-30-2005 at 05:35 PM.
To clear FX3 codes, turn the ignition to Run but don't start the car. With a small paperclip, jump pins A and C on the ALDL (in the upper left corner of the driver' side knee bolster). These pins are on the upper row and are lettered in this fashion as you look at them: E D C B A
To clear the codes, you must jump the pins for two seconds doing it for a total of three times.
To display the codes (which is simply a series of flashes of the SRC message) jump the pins and turn the ignition to Run and watch the SRC message lamp.
Codes are two digit values and the sequence always begins and ends with a code "12". The SRC light flashes based on each integer of the code and the code repeats three times with a couple of seconds between each code value. For example a Code 12 flashes like this:
12= blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink / blink, blink blink
(there is a about a half second "/" pause between each of the three code intergers)
A code 32 is:
32= blink blink blink, blink blink (and repeats twice more)
After all of the codes have been displayed there is a final code 12 and the sequence repeats until you either pull the jumper or turn the ignition off
Heres the code meanings:
Code 12 = Start of sequence
Code 13 = Left Rear Time Out (possible bad actuator)
Code 14 = Right Front Time Out (same)
Code 21 = Left Front Time Out (same)
Code 22 = Right Rear Time Out (same)
Code 23 = Loss of vehicle speed signal (this code will appear if the ignition switch is cycled On/OFF three times without the vehicle moving. Once the vehicle moves and there are no other codes the SRC light will go OFF but this code remains in history)
Code 31 = Left Front Out of Position (maybe broken gear on shock rod)
Code 32 = Right Front Out of Position (same)
Code 33 = Left Rear Out of Position (same)
Code 34 = Right Rear Out of position (same)
Code 41 = SRC Switch short to Voltage
Code 42 = SRC SWitch open contacts (console switch not positioned at one of the three detents
Code 43 = SRC switch citrcuit open.
Give this a try and report what codes you get. Remember, a Code 12 sarts the sequence and also ends it. Any other codes are repeated three times before the next code is displayed.
Last edited by c4cruiser : 11-30-2005 at 05:35 PM.
Post the error codes you get and we can go from there. The fact that the SRC light goes out after a couple minutes is interesting. It may be that a shock gear is damaged but not yet broken or an actuator has some sort of wiriing problem. For most of the codes, the SRC light will remain on as long as a problem is detected.
The system does a self-check everytime the ignition is turned and the car moves. But as I mentioned above, if you cycle the ignition switch (starting the engine or not) three times without the car moving, the SRC light will come on for a short time and a Code 23 is set. But in this case, the light would go off as soon as any forward speed is detected.
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CVG323 (06-30-2018)
06-26-2007, 09:52 PM
#5
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The light should come on at vehicle start-up. When the light is on, the system is doing a self check to make sure everything is ok. This should only take about 2-3 seconds. If the light stays on longer than that, it's detecting an error.
The procedure c4cruiser posted is a good one. Except "time out" equals a bad shock, and "out of position" equals a bad actuator.
The procedure c4cruiser posted is a good one. Except "time out" equals a bad shock, and "out of position" equals a bad actuator.
Last edited by Z-07 freak; 06-26-2007 at 09:55 PM.
06-28-2007, 12:59 AM
#6
If the light stays on the entire time your car is running, then you have a problem as the others have described.
Once you've figured out how to read the codes, hopefully it will be a bad front actuator - those are the easiest to get off.
If you have a broken gear inside the actuator, try Captain Z CNC (Google for the link). It's an excellent service with super fast turnaround time, and only cost $150.
Once you've figured out how to read the codes, hopefully it will be a bad front actuator - those are the easiest to get off.
If you have a broken gear inside the actuator, try Captain Z CNC (Google for the link). It's an excellent service with super fast turnaround time, and only cost $150.
03-19-2013, 11:37 PM
#8
Race Director
We should probably get hold of CptZ and see if he has any advice. I did pick up a set of the actuators for spares though, just in case.
03-20-2013, 10:26 AM
#9
Law Dawg Moderator
