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Effective, permanent fix to sagging door trim panels, using wire ties

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Old 12-18-2016, 02:36 PM
  #61  
MatthewMiller
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Originally Posted by Scooter94
The only thing to be concerned about is putting the screw in the right spot. Look at the pictures above, you won't have any problems.
This is my question: how can I accurately locate the hole in the door panel so it aligns properly with the insert I will put in the slot of the door skin?
Old 12-18-2016, 05:42 PM
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Scooter94
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
This is my question: how can I accurately locate the hole in the door panel so it aligns properly with the insert I will put in the slot of the door skin?
In my case, I could move the door panel away from the frame, sight on the insert center, move the door panel back and mark the spot.
If I recall correctly, it is pretty much centered and the insert will move slightly up and down to accommodate slight errors.
Old 12-18-2016, 05:45 PM
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I went back in the thread and found this image from RLOwindy

Old 12-18-2016, 08:46 PM
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MatthewMiller
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Thanks, Scooter. Upon further thought, I think I can mark it's vertical location on the weatherstrip, and just measure from that over to the hole in the fiberglass and put the hole the same distance over on the panel. I'll let you know how it turns out. I am waiting for the JB Weld to dry on my rib repairs (metal plates sandwiching the molded ribs there were cracked). I am hoping to reinstall the panel tomorrow.

This is on the passenger side, btw. I had to take the panel off to replace the window guide that was broken off. I decided to fix the ribs and add this screw while I'm at it. The driver's side almost certainly needs the same, but the window guide isn't broken (yet). So I can wait a little on it.
Old 12-18-2016, 10:44 PM
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VikingTrad3r
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Subbed! My 86 and 87 both need this.
Old 12-19-2016, 09:33 PM
  #66  
MatthewMiller
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Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
Thanks, Scooter. Upon further thought, I think I can mark it's vertical location on the weatherstrip, and just measure from that over to the hole in the fiberglass and put the hole the same distance over on the panel. I'll let you know how it turns out.
It turned out okay. I had a little difficulty hitting the correct lateral location, but I ended up drilling a second hole right next to the first one, which effectively became a slot. It is all covered by the built-in washer of the screw.

BTW, my Autozone didn't have the 455310/C-87 assorted nylon nuts shownin RLowindy's post. But instead, they have something even better for this fix: 467190/C-96, which is a box of six of the square "body nuts" like the one he used out of his assorted box.

On a sour note, I discovered that my passenger window switch has the tabs busted off that hold in the metal retainer spring tab. Of course, this means that I will have to remove the door panel again to replace it. So I left the bottom Christmas tree retainers off for now. The previous owner must have gotten overzealous trying to pull the switch out without depressing the tab from behind first. New switches aren't cheap. I may try to JB Weld this tab on instead.
Old 12-19-2016, 10:17 PM
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1993C4LT1
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I took my passenger side door panel off a while ago, in hope of finding why it's loose up top. I did see 2 or 3 cracked ribs. But I mean it was such a small crack, it probably makes no difference.
Old 12-19-2016, 11:04 PM
  #68  
MatthewMiller
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Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1
I took my passenger side door panel off a while ago, in hope of finding why it's loose up top. I did see 2 or 3 cracked ribs. But I mean it was such a small crack, it probably makes no difference.
I know what you're saying, but if three of those ribs are cracked then the top will not be stiff enough to stay in its channel. The door panel material itself is deceiving because it's very stiff. But over time it does take a "set." For example, when I put the two come-along straps around my door to pull the cracked ribs closed, it took a lot of pressure at first and the cracks were still a teeny bit open. I took a break and came back later and they were completely closed up and the straps had less pressure.



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