Matatk

Well, I'm not exactly sure how to go about checking this, because I'm no electrical guru. I tried to use my rear defroster this morning because there was a little condensation on the back glass. I hit the button on the dash, and the light lit up, and I heard something click behind the dashboard, so I assumed it was working. Buuuuuuut, nothing happened. The window didn't clear up at all. I checked at the rear window struts and everything is attached. I don't see any broken wires, etc. Anyone have any ideas? Is there a relay or anything? Can I use a test light or a multimeter to check the grids to see if there is power when I turn on the button? Anyone have a schematic?
Like I said, I'm not an expert here, but I'm willing to try anything if someone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks,

Matthew

NEVRL8T

I have never heard of anyone using a rear defroster to dry condensation. I am not sure that would work.

AthensVette

Rear window defroster should dry condensation because the side mirror defroster dries it.

NEVRL8T

You sure thats not the wind drying that condensation on the side mirrors?

Matatk

Ok, well....I always do. I live in Chicago, so overnight when it get's cooler, the rear window gets a thin sheet over it from the moisture. Kick on the rear defroster grid and it goes away.

Anybody have any ideas? Bueller? Bueller?

Matthew

davidnclearlaketx

A multimeter connected across the two terminals on each side of the glass will tell you if you are getting power to the defroster grid on the window.
If you get a voltage reading then it's a cut, tear or split in the grid.
If no power then you have to track it down with the service manual-step by step.

AthensVette

No it's not the wind because if I don't use the mirror heater the condensation takes much,much longer to clear up.

Matatk

Well, for anyone interested who may run into this, I solved my problem. I decided to just go at it and see what I could do. Checked the relay first - 30w in the fuse panel - that was good. Like I said, my switch turned on, so I assumed it wasn't that. Checked the the grid and the struts with a multimeter, and they were good. Still wasn't getting power, though. I pulled off the clip at the power side (red and black wire on the pass. side) and tested it with the multimeter inbetween the strut and the clip. Got power there...hmmm...turns out that crimp on the plastic clip had failed and pulled the power wire away from the metal tongue inside. So I pried it up a bit, jammed it back in there, and secured it with electrical tape. Works now. Thought this might help if anyone else runs into something like that. Figure a plastic clip can't last forever

Matthew