PatternDayTrader

I wouldn't trust a locksmith. I just wouldn't. A dealer should be able to handle lock cylinder replacement with the greatest of ease. The lock cylinder pattern failure is very easy to test for, but that doesn't mean you can skip proper testing.

In the event you want the system diagnosed properly before you start throwing parts at it, then you may or may not get that from your dealer.

I guess if I were starting from zero (I'm not) and I were looking to hire someone to figure out what was wrong with your car; then the first thing I would want to know is if they can "print a schematic of the VATS system". I would actually ask that exact question. If the answer is anything besides "yes" then they are automatically disqualified.

spatz406

K, thx 2 everyone 4 yr help. I used to work on cars when they had carbs and no computers! I'll just try everything one step at a time till it works, then report what happened here in the Forum.(Guess I won't have to sell/give away my Vette after all) 😃

spatz406

K, thx for that info. 😃

Cliff Harris

What exactly do you suspect a locksmith might do that you dread so much?

I suspect the only people who can "print a schematic of the VATS system" are people who have read my article on that very subject:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...schematic.html

MrWillys

Not applicable to the 1990 model year or newer as it is integral with the CCM or BCM.

PatternDayTrader

I don't know, that's why I wouldn't go to one. If I were guessing I would think that a locksmith wouldn't properly route the wiring through the steering column and the plastic wire loom, or something equally stupid. This would ensure a premature failure of the new parts. Maybe they would get it right, and maybe your dentist could remove your tonsils. I wouldn't chance it.

As far as being able to print a schematic. I meant he should use that to help sift through all the poser shops that going to tell him "bring er on down, of course we can fix it !". I assure you any shop that doesn't have the schematic shouldn't be attempting VATS diagnosis.

Cliff Harris

spatz406

Thank you so VERY MUCH, for that resistance table! However did you find that? I appreciate everyone on the Forum here for helping me with my problem. After leaving me stranded many times, I had intended on getting rid of my Vette, but you guys have shown me that with a little wok, I can keep it after all! Once again, my thanks to you all!!!! 😃

hcbph

Maybe you mentioned it but a couple of additional things.
When it fails to start, does the security light come on in the DIC when it fails to crank over? You can check in the FSM (I assume you have one) or in the owners manual if it should come on or not if it's a VATS issue. It has to be in one or the other.
Also you can clean the slot for the ignition key with a cotton swab and maybe alcohol to clean off any residual crap where the resistor on the key makes contact. Just to be safe when using fluids around anything electrical, I always disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected long enough to insure any spillage has fully evaporated prior to hooking it back up.
If you can get to the clutch switch, you could make up a couple of leads and use that to hook an ohm meter up to the clutch switch and work the clutch [obviously with the engine off] and see if the switch opens and closes properly as the pedal is depressed and released.

Just a couple of additional thoughts.

spatz406

Yes, the "security" light comes on when it won't crank.(Along with the other lights("brake," etc. I got this car for a "steal" and the guy was so eager to unload it that I'm guessing he had the being stranded problem, and like me, he didn't know what to do about it. K, I'll also try the alc.swab thing coz after 26 years, it's got to be dirty! ��thx for yr reply! ��

WVZR-1

Now that you've mentioned the "LIGHT" the resistance by-pass is maybe a very good "diagnostic" NEXT MOVE. If once you've by-passed and aren't left stranded in a reasonable amount of time you can - A. leave it if security isn't a concern for you or B. consider a key cylinder. That's still NOT a cut & dried fix, it could be a CCM issue

I suggested having a dealer "drop the key" because you seemed NOT FAMILIAR at all and maybe didn't don't have a DMM or analog meter either. A dealer "drop" is for numerical reference only. The chart is everywhere and I would have thought you stumbled upon it several times in GOOGLE - VATS searches.

I asked you several posts ago - how many keys do you have? You mention being stranded several times. As long as you "hint" that this has been going on (two owners), well maybe just maybe it's actually a key. If it's been several times using multiple keys them "maybe" you could consider that diagnostics enough to assume key/cylinder failure.