I recently bought a '96 that didn't have its keyless remote so I went ahead and got a second hand remote. The remote has a new battery and was tested successfully on another vehicle. I was set to program it for my car but the PKE light won't come on. I continued with the programming anyone, in case it was just a light, but nothing happens. I figure either the PKE is bad or needs to be activated. The owner's manual only refers to activating the PKE using an existing remote--a Catch-22 since I didn't have a working one to begin with. Is there another way to activate the PKE and/or determine whether the PKE itself is bad? Thanks for any suggestions.

 

Does the PKE light come on in your dash area when you turn the car on? The one above the radio? It will be in the area where your battery and airbag signs light up when you wake the computer.

If not, it may very well be your receiver. That is the problem with mine, and I have purchased a new receiver, but have yet to put it in as I have to take out the dash, and that is a winter job for sure.

Hope this helps.

Laura

 

To activate/deactivate the system..hold down the door button for at least 5 secs & see if the locks cycle. If they do you should be ok. If they don't you have other issues.


To program the remotes

1. Move all transmitters out of range.
2. Turn the ignition key on.
3. Push TRIP OD0 on the Driver Information Center twice.
4. Within five seconds, press and hold FUEL INFO
until the PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light comes on.
5. Turn the ignition off, but leave the key in the ignition.
The PASSIVE KEYLESS ENTRY light should begin to flash to show
the system is in programming mode.
6. Bring one transmitter into range. The light will stop flashing and
stay on to show that the code is stored.
7. Move the transmitter out of range. The light should start
flashing again.
8. Repeat Steps 6 and 7 with each additional transmitter.

The programming mode will shut off if:

You don’t program any transmitters for two minutes.
You take the key out of the ignition or turn the ignition on.
You have programmed three transmitters.

 

Thanks for the advice.

While its helpful I still need to figure out whether the PKE is only off or whether its broken. Can you turn the PKE on without a remote?

Recall that my remote is not programed for this particular car so I can't use it to turn the PKE on or off. If I can't do that (figure out whether its just off), then my other choice may be to assume its broken and figure out where to get a new unit. In which case my other question is where might you find one of these units as I don't see them available and don't have a part number?

Thanks again.

 

You can't turn it on or off without a programmed fob.

Have the checked the fuse(s).



Scroll down for PKE diagnostics.



This is courtesy of Casethe corvetteman,.


Originally Posted by Casethecorvetteman

On a 94-96 you can check the codes with a paper clip as follows:

You short pin "12" to pin "4" and turn the ignition switch to "On" without starting the engine.

The speedometer will display any codes using the same protocol as the 1990-1993 model but there are some changes in the designation for the modules plus additional modules are added:

Module "1" is still the CCM module.

Module "4" is now called the PCM module (Powertrain Control Module) because automatic transmission computer control was added to Engine Control Module in 1994.

Module 7 (on the 1996 model only) is the RTD module. (This is the Real Time Dampening module which replaced the Selective Ride Control module in 1996).

Module 9 is the ABS/ASR module number from 1994 through 1996.
Finally, Module "A", the DERM (Dynamic Energy Control Module --- (the air bag control module) will be requested to show any codes.

Just like the 1990-1993 display, you read the codes on the speedometer (big) and read the module number on the trip odometer (small).

A series of dashed lines for instance “ - - -“ indicates no more stored codes for that module.

A code showing as “C12” for the CCM module (module #1) means no codes are stored. So C12 is a good thing to see.

Again, you can cause the codes to repeat by turning the ignition off for five seconds and then back on.

Turn the ignition off and remove the short to restore normal operation.

To clear the codes,

1. With ignition "off" ground terminal #12 of the DLC (use bent paper clip to connect pin 4 to pin 12)

2. Turn ignition "on".

3. Press trip/odo button on the DIC until 1.7 appears in the trip
monitor area of the instrument cluster.

4. Press eng/met button on the DIC & hold until "---" appears in the
speedometer area of the cluster, this will clear CCM DTC'S.


To clear PCM/ECM codes do the following:


1. Press the trip reset button on the DIC until the desired system is displayed. In this case it will be 4.0.

2. Press trip/odo button on the DIC until the desired diagnostic mode(4.7) is displayed on the trip monitor area of the cluster.

3. Press & hold the eng/met button on the DIC until "---" is
displayed in the speedometer area of the cluster, this will clear PCM codes.


To clear ABS/ASR codes do the following:

Same as above but you’re looking for “9.7” on the trip odo

And here are the codes

1994-1995: Diagnostic Trouble Codes
DTC #11: Malfunction Indicator Lamp Circuit.
DTC #13: Bank #1 Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit:
DTC #14: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #15: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage High.
DTC #16: Distributor Ignition System Low Pulse.
DTC #18: Injector Circuit.
DTC #21: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Voltage High.
DTC #22: Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #23: Intake Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage High.
DTC #24: Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit.
DTC #25: Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #26: Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Solenoid Valve Circuit.
DTC #27: EGR Vacuum Control Signal Solenoid Valve Circuit.
DTC #28: Transmission Range Pressure Switch Assembly Fault.
DTC #29: Secondary Air Injection Pump Circuit.
DTC #32: Exhaust Gas Recalculation.
DTC #33: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit High.
DTC #34: Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit Low.
DTC #36: Distributor Ignition System High Pulse.
DTC #37: Brake Switch Stuck On.
DTC #38: Brake Switch Stuck Off.
DTC #41: Ignition Control Circuit Open.
DTC #42: Ignition Control Circuit Shorted.
DTC #43: Knock Sensor Circuit.
DTC #44: Bank 1 LF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Lean.
DTC #45: Bank 1 LF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Rich.
DTC #47: Knock Sensor Circuit Or Module Missing.
DTC #48: Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit.
DTC #50: System Voltage Low.
DTC #51: EPROM Programming Error.
DTC #52: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #53: System Voltage Low.
DTC #55: Fuel Lean Monitor.
DTC #58: Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low.
DTC #59: Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High.
DTC #62: Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Voltage Low.
DTC #63: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Open.
DTC #64: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Lean.
DTC #65: Bank 2 RF Heated Oxygen Sensor #1 Circuit Rich.
DTC #66: A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Open.
DTC #67: A/C Pressure Sensor Circuit Sensor or A/C Clutch.
DTC #68: A/C Relay Circuit.
DTC #69: A /C Clutch Circuit.
DTC #70: A/C Clutch Relay Driver Circuit.
DTC #72: Vehicle Speed Sensor Loss.
DTC #73: Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Current Error.
DTC #74: Traction Control System Circuit Low.
DTC #75: Transmission System Voltage Low
DTC #77: Primary Cooling Fan Relay Control Circuit.
DTC #78: Secondary Cooling Fan Relay Control Circuit.
DTC #79: Transmission Fluid Overtemp.
DTC #80: Transmission Component Slipping.
DTC #81: Transmission 2-3 Shift Solenoid Circuit.
DTC #82: Transmission 1-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit.
DTC #83: Torque Converter Solenoid Voltage High.
DTC #84: 3-2 Control Solenoid Circuit.(Auto Only).
DTC #84: 2nd And 3rd Gear Blockout Relay Control Circuit.
DTC #85: Transmission TCC Stock On.
DTC #90: Transmission TCC Solenoid Circuit.
DTC #91: One To Four Upshift Lamp(Manual Only).
DTC #97: VSS Output Circuit.
DTC #98: Tachometer Output Signal Voltage Wrong.

To run a diagnostic on the PKE system, connect pins 4 and 8 on the ALDL (see pic below to see pin label order)


And the PKE diagnostic system works as follows:
With pins 4 and 8 connected, the PKE light in the Driver Info Centre will flash the codes.

Here is the list of DTCs and what they mean:

DTC #12: Receiver Memory Bad
DTC #13: Transmitter Not in Range
DTC #14: Non-Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #15: Valid Transmitter Received
DTC #16: Passenger Door Button Depressed
DTC #17: Hatch Button Depressed

 

Don't get hung up on it being "turned off". You would still be able to program a remote whether it is "on" or "off". Start by checking the fuses.

 

Absolutely right.

If the PKE light does not flash for 2 seconds with key on, it is either in sleep mode or the self test is not functioning, which means the receiver is probably bad. If you try to go to programming mode and the lamp still does not light, that is a major sign the PKE receiver is defective. Whether you have a FOB or not you can go into programming mode. If the PKE lamp never lights when trying to get to programming mode, then you cannot even think about programming it.

Its unlikely it is in sleep mode. There are a few factors that might affect operation or programming mode but self test with “key on” is pretty independent of external inputs to the PKE and if that does not work it shows the PKE is probably bad.

 

It appears I will need a new PKE module.
Thank you all for your help and advice. It's greatly appreciated.