how to change brake booster (92-95) with pics
04-02-2010, 04:46 PM
#23
Terrific article, littlesk8cracker.
Three thoughts while following your suggestions as I replaced my booster. First, replacing my booster, an unplanned fix, followed just finishing replacing my Opti, water pump, spark plug wires and valve cover gaskets, a planned one, so when I needed more room to remove the booster but didn't want to remove the master cylinder, I removed the three bolts attaching the ASR and that gave me plenty of room to move the master cylinder out of the way.
Second, I spent literally hours trying unsuccessfully to get the new booster's mounting bolts through the firewall until I noticed the aluminum bracket on the inside of the firewall had slipped about 1/4" down thus blocking any bolt. I already had the booster pushrod attached to the brake pedal so I pushed up the aluminum bracket and the bolts came on through easily.
Third, I dropped one of the two M8x125 self-locking flange nuts my old booster was attached with and found not even the two specialty bolt suppliers in town had such a thing. So I did another l-o-n-g search and found the one I dropped. The nuts for the the master cylinder are also M8x125 self-locking nuts but not flanged.
Again, thanks for all the work on the article.
John
Three thoughts while following your suggestions as I replaced my booster. First, replacing my booster, an unplanned fix, followed just finishing replacing my Opti, water pump, spark plug wires and valve cover gaskets, a planned one, so when I needed more room to remove the booster but didn't want to remove the master cylinder, I removed the three bolts attaching the ASR and that gave me plenty of room to move the master cylinder out of the way.
Second, I spent literally hours trying unsuccessfully to get the new booster's mounting bolts through the firewall until I noticed the aluminum bracket on the inside of the firewall had slipped about 1/4" down thus blocking any bolt. I already had the booster pushrod attached to the brake pedal so I pushed up the aluminum bracket and the bolts came on through easily.
Third, I dropped one of the two M8x125 self-locking flange nuts my old booster was attached with and found not even the two specialty bolt suppliers in town had such a thing. So I did another l-o-n-g search and found the one I dropped. The nuts for the the master cylinder are also M8x125 self-locking nuts but not flanged.
Again, thanks for all the work on the article.
John
04-02-2010, 11:01 PM
#24
Drifting
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austinjohn, appreciate the input. good to know about the asr thing because removing the master was a PITA. also, i know what you mean about the aluminum piece on the firewall, i had to push mine up too
07-27-2010, 04:25 AM
#25
Good write up. Just noticed on my 89 after I started the car and pushed the brake pedal. Got a loud Woooooosh noise while holding the brake pedal. And of course the brakes sucked, but the pedal had always been firm anyways. And after shutting the car down. Only was able to press the brake pedal 1/4 of the way before getting an immediate hard brake pedal.
I assume this is probably about the same on an 89. I believe you don't actually have to remove the master cyclinder, but can just pull it out of the way?
I assume this is probably about the same on an 89. I believe you don't actually have to remove the master cyclinder, but can just pull it out of the way?
07-27-2010, 05:56 AM
#26
Drifting
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Good write up. Just noticed on my 89 after I started the car and pushed the brake pedal. Got a loud Woooooosh noise while holding the brake pedal. And of course the brakes sucked, but the pedal had always been firm anyways. And after shutting the car down. Only was able to press the brake pedal 1/4 of the way before getting an immediate hard brake pedal.
I assume this is probably about the same on an 89. I believe you don't actually have to remove the master cyclinder, but can just pull it out of the way?
I assume this is probably about the same on an 89. I believe you don't actually have to remove the master cyclinder, but can just pull it out of the way?
07-28-2010, 12:20 PM
#29
some people have had luck just pulling it away, others say they had to remove it. in my case, the booster was absolutely not coming out with the master in the way so i had to remove mine. wasnt hard to do and gave me reassurance when i washed the huge amounts of crap outta the resevoir
I'll try to just push the master out of the way as I just got done flushing the brake fluid.
07-29-2010, 06:26 AM
#32
Drifting
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not sure what brand i used but it was like $105 so it may have been a cardone or some other cheap brand. been 7 or 8 months so far and no complaints
08-16-2010, 01:13 AM
#33
How are you guys adjusting that screw on the booster? Mine is shorter than the screw that was on the OEM booster. I tried using pliers to hold that one piece and tried turning the screw with my socket and ratchet, but the whole thing kept turning. There isn't alot of room to get something in there to hold that piece and get a socket or wrench on that screw. I also tried using vice grips, but not alot of room.
It looks like you have to use some special wrench or something to hold that piece and still have room to get a socket on the screw.
I also found a few days later the Master Cylinder is leaking on the booster, before it was dry. So, I guess I'll do that next.
It looks like you have to use some special wrench or something to hold that piece and still have room to get a socket on the screw.
I also found a few days later the Master Cylinder is leaking on the booster, before it was dry. So, I guess I'll do that next.
08-16-2010, 05:10 AM
#34
How are you guys adjusting that screw on the booster? Mine is shorter than the screw that was on the OEM booster. I tried using pliers to hold that one piece and tried turning the screw with my socket and ratchet, but the whole thing kept turning. There isn't alot of room to get something in there to hold that piece and get a socket or wrench on that screw. I also tried using vice grips, but not alot of room.
It looks like you have to use some special wrench or something to hold that piece and still have room to get a socket on the screw.
It looks like you have to use some special wrench or something to hold that piece and still have room to get a socket on the screw.
John
08-16-2010, 05:24 PM
#36
Mine works fine too. But I can tell it has increased pedal travel compared to before. You have to press it a ways before the brakes start being applied. I think you just want a slight gap between the master and booster rod. I figured I'd at least turn the screw out some, but couldn't get a good hold on that rod and still being able to get a socket to the screw.
I believe I have read it is possible for the booster to be damaged with the screw being too short.
I believe I have read it is possible for the booster to be damaged with the screw being too short.
08-16-2010, 05:35 PM
#37
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St. Jude Donor '10
Looks like I have to do some work on my `90. I change the fluid in my reservoirs last weekend. All I did was suck out the old stuff & refill with DOT4 synthetic. I did not drive the car all week as I had to work. I went out to drive it this last weekend, started the car up & the pedal is hard as a brick. It does not make any noise its just rock hard. I`m going to try bleeding the system & see if that helps. When I step on the brake with the covers off the reservoirs, only the front one shows any movement of fluid. I don`t know if this is normal. I find it hard to believe that just changing the fluid could blow the booster, but when I disconnect the vacuum line, the check valve is fine but there is nothing in the booster eg. no leaking sounds, no whoosh, nothing- just a rock hard pedal with or without the vacuum line hooked up. crap!
08-21-2011, 07:26 PM
#38
Burning Brakes
I installed a new (to me) brake booster using the write up in this thread. Awesome help, I went step by step including removing the seat. I must say, I'm not as nimble as I use to be, so getting in and out of there was getting to be a PITA. I didn't remove my M/C though, I pulled it out of the way and wiggled the booster out. Funny thing is putting the new one in was WAY easier than pulling the old one out. A+ on the write up, I hope the OP never removes the photos from the stored location.
08-21-2011, 07:53 PM
#39
I installed a new (to me) brake booster using the write up in this thread. Awesome help, I went step by step including removing the seat. I must say, I'm not as nimble as I use to be, so getting in and out of there was getting to be a PITA. I didn't remove my M/C though, I pulled it out of the way and wiggled the booster out. Funny thing is putting the new one in was WAY easier than pulling the old one out. A+ on the write up, I hope the OP never removes the photos from the stored location.
John
08-22-2011, 12:27 AM
#40
Drifting
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I installed a new (to me) brake booster using the write up in this thread. Awesome help, I went step by step including removing the seat. I must say, I'm not as nimble as I use to be, so getting in and out of there was getting to be a PITA. I didn't remove my M/C though, I pulled it out of the way and wiggled the booster out. Funny thing is putting the new one in was WAY easier than pulling the old one out. A+ on the write up, I hope the OP never removes the photos from the stored location.
glad everybody has had success with this. also checkout my similair write up on changing the clutch hydraulics on the zf6! coming up ill be taking the intake off to fix a small leak at the back of the manifold, maybe it could be another write up for me