Well Im about to give up Ive replaced everything that has to do with starting with new parts and still wont start, new carb,plugs,wires,cap rotor,coil,alternater,battery it turns over but wont start Im getting fuel,spark PLEASE HELP: *****:

 

have fuel and spark,,,hmm,,,you replaced your plug wires, maybe you have them crossed to the wrong plugs..just a thought.

 

When you take your plugs out, do they smell like fuel? If so, then the gas is going through the injectors so the spark isnt getting to the spark plug (or at least the gas isnt igniting)...

 

You replaced the carburetor? C4's are fuel injected and don't even have a carburetor!
***** nilly replacing parts is the most expensive and dumbest way to repair ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Auto engines require a hot spark and spark at the right time, fuel and air and in the correct ratio and compression in order to start and stay running. First thing is to check any error codes that have been set and follow the diagnostics for any error codes in your electrical diagnosis manual. Pull a spark plug wire and bring a grounded wire to the inside of the boot while someone cranks, you should see a snappy at least 1/2 inch spark. Use a timing light while someone cranks to see if you have correct spark timing. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the shraeder valve on the right fuel rail and turn the ignition on for more than 2 seconds and turn it off. You should get 35-42 psi and it should hold for a long time or you have leaky injector/s or a defective check valve in the fuel pressure regulator or a defective fuel pump. Use a noid light (available at parts houses) or make one with an LED (light emitting diode) and a series 680 ohm resistor and connect it to an unplugged injector and crank the engine. You should see the LED pulsing. The homemade light must be connected with the correct polarity across the injector plug. Spray some starter fluid into the MAF and see if it starts. If the engine starts, then you have a fuel delivery problem. Diagnosis is a lot cheaper and far more definitive than installing new parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

first of all I know c4 are fuel injected but I bought this one and it was converted to a carb and it was no good niether were the rest of the items I mentoined ,but thank for the insult anyway

 

I don't jfb was insulting you. I think he was making a comment on throwing parts at a problem. The way you wrote the post made it seem like you replaced all those parts to try to get it to start. When trying to communicate problems, you have to let the reader know exactly what happened and in exactly what order. Otherwise it's really hard to help. First thing is to find out is if it's on the gas side or the electrical side. It's also possible it could be both. #1 has the car been on the road and drivable since the engine was converted to a carb?

 

Yes the car was on the road and driving but it sat around for a while ,I bought the car and it had charging problem (a bad alternator putting out only 9 volts ) but it started so I bought a new battery and alternator installed them (pretty simple) and thats when the problems started the holley carb was leaking from everywhere ,since I dont like holleys I changed it to an Edelbrock the plugs were completly fouled out ,replaced them cap and rotor the same replaced everything has been done according to the Haynes book Im thinking it s out of time,I just want to fire so I dont get I TOLD YOU SO and why dont sell that piece of s*^# I bought as a project but its got me baffled

 

I've got an Edlebrock on my 66 Chevy. Good carbs. From a safety standpoint, lets determine how the gas is being pumped to the carb. Is there a mechanical fuel pump on the motor? If no, then is there a pressure regulator to reduce the pressure from the electric fuel pump? If no then there is too much fuel pressure going to the carb. The carb only needs about 6 psi but the electric pump can do over 40 psi. The carb can't begin to handle that much pressure. Check that out first.

 

No insult was ever intended on my part. Most posters here rarely provide a history of the work that was done prior to asking for help and if they did they would get much better help. Fouled plugs can be a sign that the mixture is too rich to start the engine and Moon86 has some good info that the fuel pump has so much more pressure than carburetors require that it is forcing gas past the float valve and spraying into the engine way too rich. This is likely the reason why your carburetor is leaking gas everywhere too. I recommend that you install a pressure regulator set to 6 psi to the input to your carburetor. Also, I have never seen anyone offering help to claim, "I told you so". It seems to me that you are unreasonably sensitive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You must be a woman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Ok ,the I told you so would have come my wife ( forgot to mention that) now the the car has an external electric fuel pump 5-7 psi,the person that converted it took the one in the tank out ,Ive got a psi gauge onthe fuel line reads 51/2 ,so fuel is being delivered properly Im getting spark but its week ,it still seems like the timming is off

 

You need both a strong spark AND the correct timing. You should be able to get snappy at least 1/2 inch sparks. Measure the resistance of each plug wire, if OEM, they should measure about 5000 ohms per foot. At night, turn off the underhood lights and during cranking see if there are any sparks along each plug wire. There isn't supposed to be any. If you have broken or missing plug wire looms, install new ones. Plug wires should be routed NOT touching any metal. Weak spark can also be due to the spark control module or the spark coil. Replace with OEM parts. Set the timing. Report what happened so we can help further.

 

....... first of all I know c4 are fuel injected but I bought this one and it was converted to a carb

 

The car has been converted to a carb ,dogfish

 

Control module is what I was thinking. I believe Autozone can test them if you pull the module out.

 

Oh, my bad, I forgot... Ignore what I said !!!

Thanks for clearing that up

 

 

Ok everyone I have to hang it up for today need to go to work but will start this tomarrow,I will get the scm checked out and get back to y all

 

Here is another thought. Call up Edelbrock and find out what fuel metering rods belong in the carb for your engine. The last owner may have installed larger metering rods mistakenly believing that this will increase HP, what it does is make the engine run rich, maybe too rich to start and continue to run as you experience.
You are going to have to pull the distributor cap to get at the SCM, so look into the cap, is it wet? are there carbon tracks? Look at the rotor, in its center is a hemispherical depression, is it carbon tracked? That will make for a very weak or non existant spark.

 

with all that you replaced i have ask if you actually pulled the distributer to check the brass gear for wear? did you use starter fluid in the carb to see if it started to confirm compression.