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I read thought all 26 pages and don't recall with all of your motor swaps if you ever went to an AC motor.
With all of the wiring have you ever had to troubleshoot a break or short and was that hard to do?
Hey Yellowlust,
Thank you.
Yes you are correct, with DC motors there is more torque, than AC motors.
Ac motors do give the benefit of regenerative braking which can recapture about 10% percent of the charge to the batteries with braking.
Plus they are almost twice as expensive.
I'm a bit fortunate that I'm an engineer so the wiring while sometimes tedious, I have fortunately had very little issues in that respect.
But to answer your question, no the wiring is very stable and really no more difficult to troubleshoot than looking for say a blown fuse.
But perhaps to an average person it could be overwhelming. However, most of the documentation is pretty good. Plus I keep track when interfacing it into the car wiring such as the tach and speedometer etc.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask, I don't mind sharing...
Yes you are correct, with DC motors there is more torque, than AC motors.
Ac motors do give the benefit of regenerative braking which can recapture about 10% percent of the charge to the batteries with braking.
Plus they are almost twice as expensive.
I'm a bit fortunate that I'm an engineer so the wiring while sometimes tedious, I have fortunately had very little issues in that respect.
But to answer your question, no the wiring is very stable and really no more difficult to troubleshoot than looking for say a blown fuse.
But perhaps to an average person it could be overwhelming. However, most of the documentation is pretty good. Plus I keep track when interfacing it into the car wiring such as the tach and speedometer etc.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask, I don't mind sharing...
Enjoy!
MO
With as many miles as I have on my car I'm just waiting for the LT1 to finally die. When it does it's getting an electric motor. My cousin is an electrician (he works on the massive solar installs they are putting in Eastern Oregon), I know he's dying to help. Besides, I still don't know the difference between an amp and a watt.
If you go with a direct drive (no tranny) what speed would the motor be at on freeway speeds with the stock rear end?
Are there any good charts that show the equivalent electric motor "feel" verses a gas engine? With about 340 lb/ft in the LT1 how big of an electric motor would one want to get a similar feel?
With as many miles as I have on my car I'm just waiting for the LT1 to finally die. When it does it's getting an electric motor. My cousin is an electrician (he works on the massive solar installs they are putting in Eastern Oregon), I know he's dying to help. Besides, I still don't know the difference between an amp and a watt.
If you go with a direct drive (no tranny) what speed would the motor be at on freeway speeds with the stock rear end?
Are there any good charts that show the equivalent electric motor "feel" verses a gas engine? With about 340 lb/ft in the LT1 how big of an electric motor would one want to get a similar feel?
You probably would not want t go direct drive for a few reasons...
1. it requires a whole lot more wiring additional contactors
2. in town with higher current, you would over heat the motors with high current and low RPM's
I think unless you are looking for like all out performance you could go with a single motor and still be very happy.
Since the DC motors are full torque at the low end you would be really surprised even with a single motor.
You could bolt right up to your stock transmission. This would eliminate the concerns I listed above.
So the say a single 9" motor you would get about 200 ft at about 900 amps but that is pushing it a bit. so total max with one motor would be say 170V X900 amps = 153 KW /746 = 205 HP so about 200HP@ 300 ft/lbs
single 11" motor would be about 270 ft at about 900 amps and again about 200 HP maxed out...
For more then you might need to consider a dual motor setup...
So there are many ways to get to where you want to be with the car...
Hi Folks,
Well considering the California rains have been keeping me off he streets like every single weekend so for this new year...I decided to do an walk around update to MO AMPS.
Wow!!!! I have not read through all the pages yet, but will. Its amazing the time you put into your C4, and the revisions. Few questions, where can I purchase Tesla Batteries? Could you share links for parts? Do you still have your supercharged Engine?
Wow!!!! I have not read through all the pages yet, but will. Its amazing the time you put into your C4, and the revisions. Few questions, where can I purchase Tesla Batteries? Could you share links for parts? Do you still have your supercharged Engine?
You can find them believe it or not on Ebay k-ash out of new York, really a great person to deal with just do a search on tesla model S modules
N the engine was sold 7 year ago when I started this project.
One thing about project cars, they are never finished LOL
So since the last post, I was at a car show and was doing some healthy "romps" I broke one of he coolant hoses on the batteries and had coolant everywhere. Well we all have those things happen.
My philosophy is, if it breaks make it better, so I not only decided to rearrange the batteries, but I added a 14th module!
So I stiffened up the battery box and mounted the batteries in a different fashion.
So I was averaging about 130 miles range with 13 modules ( Tesla's use 16), with the 14th module it puts me at about 150 miles range at about 60-65 mph.
Putting the modules into the battery box.
Thee rer of the box will be cosed in to make it weather tight.
Battery Modules in aligned and wired up.
Rear of the box , the modules are stacked 4-4-3-3 high to clear the hatch latch.
The remote fuse boxes for powering the BMS, coolant pumps, thermistor and wi-fi etc.
Hopefully I will have the rest of the car wired up by the end of the weekend.
I'm kicking around going to AC drive motors, so I can have brake regen which would charge the batteries when I brake or let off the throttle, this would probably put me close to about 200 miles range, at the expense of some torque.
Some more updates
I got the new water manifolds in for the batteries and decided to not only bolt the modules down, but strap them down as well.
I doubt they are going anywhere now, just need to add the fan control on the water cooler ( trans cooler)...
CAD layout of the rear battery box and 14 battery modules, with the layout of the coolant manifolds to send coolant to and from the battery modules.
Battery straps added, you can also see on the right the coolant hoses. The red **** on the left is the high voltage disconnect, the silver cap on the right is the coolant tank for the battery modules.
Mo,
I just read through this, fascinating! I wish I knew something about doing this, my wife has a Toyota Highlander hybrid, it really has some torque to it, has the regenerative batteries, but also a gas engine. I've driven the Chevy Volt, again, lots of torque. As this technology progresses, we are going to see more and more electric vehicles in a wide variety of configurations.
Congrats on the success of the car, it's really something neat to read about, and I'm sure a blast to drive.
Keep us informed please with the next iteration...
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I went back and read some of the older posts. Wow - talk about an ongoing project!
I copied this thread and sent it to a member of the Buick Reatta forum that I belong to. He lives in England and is thinking of going EV for his Reatta.
I'm sure that he will learn a lot here.
Keep up the great work!
I went back and read some of the older posts. Wow - talk about an ongoing project!
I copied this thread and sent it to a member of the Buick Reatta forum that I belong to. He lives in England and is thinking of going EV for his Reatta.
I'm sure that he will learn a lot here.
Keep up the great work!
Awesome!
Enjoy, if you have any questions please feel free to reach out to me.
01-20-2017, 12:23 PM
