brake booster replacement - should I replace master cylinder too?
08-15-2011, 12:36 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
brake booster replacement - should I replace master cylinder too?
I have already ordered a new AC Delco brake booster for my 1996 LT1 and I'll be having my local shop (The Vette Doctors) install it next weekend. Should I also replace the master cylinder while they have the system drained?
The main cause: the brakes are extremely hard to push down when the engine is cold. The pedal literally requires both my feet to hold to keep it from rolling at a dead stop. This usually clears up after 10 minutes of driving.
I plan on upgrading to the C5 Z06 brake package too for better stopping, but not until I fix the system first. I want to see how much of a difference the new booster will make.
The main cause: the brakes are extremely hard to push down when the engine is cold. The pedal literally requires both my feet to hold to keep it from rolling at a dead stop. This usually clears up after 10 minutes of driving.
I plan on upgrading to the C5 Z06 brake package too for better stopping, but not until I fix the system first. I want to see how much of a difference the new booster will make.
Last edited by dayle97se; 08-15-2011 at 12:42 PM.
08-15-2011, 03:16 PM
#2
Race Director
The #1 cause of power brake booster failure is a leaking master cylinder from the input shaft. They don't have to drain the system to replace the booster, it has no hydrolic connections.
Last edited by zr1fred; 08-15-2011 at 03:18 PM.
08-15-2011, 03:26 PM
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Interesting. If I end up doing the MC too, does it have to be AC Delco? Also, is the brake booster job a DIY? I'm pretty handy, have good air tools, except the FSM says I need a "brake booster removal tool." According to the diagram, it looks like a square frame with a threaded rod running through it.
08-15-2011, 06:18 PM
#4
Race Director
Any unit will work, unless you'e commited to AC-Delco. There's not much to replacing the unit, just remove the drivers seat to aid access to the two 13mm nuts on the firewall by the steering colomn. Sometimes the pedal assembly will drop slightly causing some problems putting in the new unit. I find it easier to seperate the master cylinder and booster to get it to drop in. Not so much difficult as agravaiting (sometimes). I've never used (or seen ) the tool.
