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C4 No Flex kit

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Old 11-22-2011, 08:00 PM
  #21  
popo8
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Originally Posted by Zogs2011 View Post
Vet is not a sub frame car.




Thats why I wrote "fancy" , however I did not know what other term to use for something that connects the front to the rear of a car, that is mostly in the middle....
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:11 PM
  #22  
Cavi
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So after all that history lesson. Is it worth having them or not? What about a camber brace?
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:25 PM
  #23  
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I don't think they would last long on my car, they hang too low.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:42 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by l98tpi View Post
Sorry, can't see the value in this. I occasionally autox my complete stock 91 and never have flex issues. If anything was going to tie the frame it would be a cross brace, attached diagonally, not longitudinally. If you want an example of how stiff your frame is on your C4, take a jack and place it in the center of the car and jack it up. I bet the whole side will raise up. I will say not sure about verts, but I do know coupes. Spend your $500 on a better mod. Not trying to offend anyone, but it is what it is.
I would have to argue the opposite.Ive got a 1991 with 18,000 miles and with the top off the cars about as ridged as a wet piece of toast.My car is so sloppy I wont use the glass top out of fear of cracking it.With the top off over bumps the turn signal stock looks like it could break off.

Last edited by Z51JEFF; 11-23-2011 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:48 AM
  #25  
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My top is cracked, and even with the top on this car feels "flexy", of course ,my current autox car up to now has been a bmw E30 with all the suspesion goodies. I plan on installing these flex eliminators and also a camber brace. I just figure, anything I can do is worth it. If you read the story told a couple of posts ago, it is a story and while it seems vague, but, what I came away with is that the car was designed to be a targa top then halfway through the production process some moron decided he liked a targa better so they changed and sc### the futrue owners that will end up with a compromise in rigidity. raising the sills probably did help, but for sure did not solve the issue.
As for these hanging low, I can tell you they are not any lower than the x on a convertabile.....
All that bieng said I would love to hear from someone who drove a c4 before and after...
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:22 PM
  #26  
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Doesn't look like it would work (no cross-bracing, only longitudinal).. but I believe you!

And yes the flexing is very important to me and the car's biggest weakness imo. Might be ok razzing around cones in a nice flat parking lot but driving fast uneven mountain roads and wanting to explore the limit, I have very little confidence in this car compared to others I've owned which were a joy to get on the 'ragged edge'. It does need a complete suspension overhaul with poly bushings too.
500 bucks doesn't seem too bad compared to other products out there.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:33 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Cavi View Post
My top is cracked, and even with the top on this car feels "flexy", of course ,my current autox car up to now has been a bmw E30 with all the suspesion goodies. I plan on installing these flex eliminators and also a camber brace. I just figure, anything I can do is worth it. If you read the story told a couple of posts ago, it is a story and while it seems vague, but, what I came away with is that the car was designed to be a targa top then halfway through the production process some moron decided he liked a targa better so they changed and sc### the futrue owners that will end up with a compromise in rigidity. raising the sills probably did help, but for sure did not solve the issue.
As for these hanging low, I can tell you they are not any lower than the x on a convertabile.....
All that bieng said I would love to hear from someone who drove a c4 before and after...
Spend your money on a set of anti-roll bars first. Get a 30mm or 32mm front bar and 24mm-26mm rear. This will tighten you up and decrease your roll.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:35 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by l98tpi View Post
Spend your money on a set of anti-roll bars first. Get a 30mm or 32mm front bar and 24mm-26mm rear. This will tighten you up and decrease your roll.
Got a place you like to mention for these goodies?
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:40 PM
  #29  
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I have a line on a set of antiroll bars already and a camber brace, my feeling is that between all of this I will get a solid feeling car, or as much as possible.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:49 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Eakster View Post
Doesn't look like it would work (no cross-bracing, only longitudinal).. but I believe you!

And yes the flexing is very important to me and the car's biggest weakness imo. Might be ok razzing around cones in a nice flat parking lot but driving fast uneven mountain roads and wanting to explore the limit, I have very little confidence in this car compared to others I've owned which were a joy to get on the 'ragged edge'. It does need a complete suspension overhaul with poly bushings too.
500 bucks doesn't seem too bad compared to other products out there.
Have you ever autox'd or tracked your car before? There are typically more forces placed upon the car on an autox or track than what would be encountered driving fast on a "uneven mountain road." But if you drive on the back road like we do on a autox course or track, you won't be with us much longer.

"It does need a complete suspension overhaul with poly bushings too."

I wonder if this could be the problem?
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:51 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Eakster View Post
Doesn't look like it would work (no cross-bracing, only longitudinal).. but I believe you!

And yes the flexing is very important to me and the car's biggest weakness imo. Might be ok razzing around cones in a nice flat parking lot but driving fast uneven mountain roads and wanting to explore the limit, I have very little confidence in this car compared to others I've owned which were a joy to get on the 'ragged edge'. It does need a complete suspension overhaul with poly bushings too.
500 bucks doesn't seem too bad compared to other products out there.
Originally Posted by aklim View Post
Got a place you like to mention for these goodies?
VBandP.com is one as I'm sure there are a few others such as Corvette Central, Mid America, and Ecklers. Don't want to be too biased.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:38 PM
  #32  
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VB&P ftw. great guys to deal with.

And idk, 525 seems like a bit much for some rods and rod-ends. I thought the banski stuff was pricey, and that's a lot more proven.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:46 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Alan777 View Post
VB&P ftw. great guys to deal with.

And idk, 525 seems like a bit much for some rods and rod-ends. I thought the banski stuff was pricey, and that's a lot more proven.
Banski's are some quality pieces...I love mine!!!
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:01 PM
  #34  
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got a web site for the banskis?
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:38 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by l98tpi View Post
Have you ever autox'd or tracked your car before? There are typically more forces placed upon the car on an autox or track than what would be encountered driving fast on a "uneven mountain road." But if you drive on the back road like we do on a autox course or track, you won't be with us much longer.

"It does need a complete suspension overhaul with poly bushings too."

I wonder if this could be the problem?
Exactly, what I was thinking. He said it like someone who has never auto-x. You absolutly push the limits like you would at a road course just at lower speeds but just as hard. As far as finding the true limits on a back mountain road... I'm not sure how wise that is.

As far as the frame stiffer goes, from what I know from other posters here who used it, it works. For making the car stiffer and reducing loads on body parts/reducing squeaks and rattles, it should work well. As far as handling better, maybe but suspension upgrades would be needed as well to take full advantage of the stiffer chassis. On a stock setup or close to stock, I say little difference in handling.

Keep in mind the C5 is much stiffer yet has softer springs and handles better. A stiff chassis is a very good thing. Better ride and better handling. Put stiff suspension on a good chassis like C5Z06 and you got major handling. This is NOT putting the C4 down it IS still one of the better handling cars on the road, and in its early years THE BEST on the road, later years as good as anything out there.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:01 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Cavi View Post
got a web site for the banskis?
http://www.shop.banskimotorsports.com/
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:23 PM
  #37  
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ultimitly I will end up with large sway bars, the no-flex, a camber brace, vbp sport springs(equivalent to Z07), upgraded poli bushings, Koni shocks, C5 front Brakes, and who knows what else I find interesting, Just give me a couple of months to get it all done, my autox season starts in April, that is D day...
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:50 PM
  #38  
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I have the cross bar and X brace and it makes a big difference and does not drag or anything BUT I live in FL and the only hills I see are some of the on ramps off of the interstate lol
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:44 PM
  #39  
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When i mentioned banski it wasn't a direct comparison, they dont make no-flex kits. But the pieces they have are very similar. It's essentially a threaded rod and rod ends.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:34 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by popo8 View Post
So its a fancy sub frame connector?
Originally Posted by Zogs2011 View Post
Vet is not a sub frame car.
Subframe connectors don't REALLY literally connect the sub frames of cars with subframes. At least they don't on F-bods and Fox's. What they do is stiffen the unit body structure, by adding a "real frame rail" to the car's body where there wasn't one before.

The 'Vette is a unit body structure too, and could benefit from the same principles. However...with only two (pivoting) attaching points, I still don't understand how this thing could possibly work.

Last edited by Tom400CFI; 11-24-2011 at 12:41 AM.
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