Synthetic vs Regular oil?
#41
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My 4-banger daily driver uses Mobil 1 10W30 since its first oil change at 2,000 miles. I change the oil every 10K miles.
It has 212,000 miles of pure abuse, 7 accidents, crossed a creek once and had it about 5 feet airborne once.
A Ford guy told me that that engine was not supposed to last that long.
The manual calls for 5W20 oil...
#42
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St. Jude Donor '10
My 4-banger daily driver uses Mobil 1 10W30 since its first oil change at 2,000 miles. I change the oil every 10K miles.
It has 212,000 miles of pure abuse, 7 accidents, crossed a creek once and had it about 5 feet airborne once.
A Ford guy told me that that engine was not supposed to last that long.
The manual calls for 5W20 oil...
#43
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#44
Tech Contributor
#45
Safety Car
All of the last few new cars and trucks I've owned over the past few years had the message come up on the dash that the "oil needs changed soon". They also also give the % of oil life left. That's good enough for me, so I won't forget. I'm not cheap and luckily I can afford the $30-$40 to maintain the car with the oil change intervals that the manufacturer suggests. The settings and messages are programmed by the mileage being added on to the car since the last oil change, assuming it was reprogrammed to 100% at the previous oil change. The engine monitor can't tell if it has new oil or not. The cars I had and still have have never had the capability of telling me what the engine "thinks" it can squeeze out of the used oil. Maybe that's an option my most recent new car purchase (that I spent over $40,000 for!) didn't have.
#46
Race Director
Don't want take my word for it? How about straight from the GM FAQ (other manufacturers use similar algorithms)...
The GM Oil Life Monitor System is not a mileage counter. It is actually a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. The computer continuously monitors engine-operating conditions to determine when to change oil. Over the years, millions of test miles have been accumulated to calibrate the system for a variety of vehicles. The system was first introduced in 1988 and is now on more than 10 million GM vehicles.
The beauty of the GM Oil Life Monitor System is that it will automatically adjust the oil change interval based engine characteristics, driving habits and the climate in which the vehicle is operated. For instance, mild highway driving in a warm climate will maximize the interval between oil changes. Depending on the vehicle, this could be in excess of 7000 miles and as high as 12,000 miles. On the other hand, short trip driving in cold a climate may limit the oil change to 3000 miles or less. In general, most people that drive a combination of city and highway schedules find that the GM Oil Life Monitor System will indicate an oil change every 7500 to 8500 miles. The GM Oil Life System is that it calculates for severe climate use and
determines the oil change interval just as it does for trailer towing as well as stop and go operation. There is no need to adjust the oil change based on climate, as well as vehicle use.
The beauty of the GM Oil Life Monitor System is that it will automatically adjust the oil change interval based engine characteristics, driving habits and the climate in which the vehicle is operated. For instance, mild highway driving in a warm climate will maximize the interval between oil changes. Depending on the vehicle, this could be in excess of 7000 miles and as high as 12,000 miles. On the other hand, short trip driving in cold a climate may limit the oil change to 3000 miles or less. In general, most people that drive a combination of city and highway schedules find that the GM Oil Life Monitor System will indicate an oil change every 7500 to 8500 miles. The GM Oil Life System is that it calculates for severe climate use and
determines the oil change interval just as it does for trailer towing as well as stop and go operation. There is no need to adjust the oil change based on climate, as well as vehicle use.
The 3000 mile oil change is very conservative approach to maintaining your vehicle that dates back to 1968. Many advancements in engine and oil technology have been made since then. These advancements allow engine oil drain intervals to be increased without risking harm your the engine.
Last edited by RedLS1GTO; 02-17-2012 at 12:26 AM.
#48
Race Director
I had never used synthetic in any car other than my LT1. I will from now on. Here's why.
I have an 86 Fiero GT, 25K original miles. Car is a 3 speed auto, so turning over 3400 RPM @80 MPH. Running Mobil 1. Took it to Colorado last year, and it developed a partially stuck thermostat that caused it to overheat. Before I could get it to the next town, the gauge pegged....I suspect over 250 degrees....and continued to climb. I had no choice but to shut it down hot. It was seriously heat soaked.
I let it cool, replaced the T-stat, refilled the system, and finished 1500 miles of the trip. That was last year.....zero ill effects of the overheat.
The car now runs 170 degrees on the highway and about 185-190 in town in 100 degree ambient summer temps. I will never go back to dino oil. I think the synthetic is the only reason it didn't lock up.
I have an 86 Fiero GT, 25K original miles. Car is a 3 speed auto, so turning over 3400 RPM @80 MPH. Running Mobil 1. Took it to Colorado last year, and it developed a partially stuck thermostat that caused it to overheat. Before I could get it to the next town, the gauge pegged....I suspect over 250 degrees....and continued to climb. I had no choice but to shut it down hot. It was seriously heat soaked.
I let it cool, replaced the T-stat, refilled the system, and finished 1500 miles of the trip. That was last year.....zero ill effects of the overheat.
The car now runs 170 degrees on the highway and about 185-190 in town in 100 degree ambient summer temps. I will never go back to dino oil. I think the synthetic is the only reason it didn't lock up.
#49
Safety Car
Mileage is a factor, but not even close to the only one. It is a cycle counter that weights each cycle based on temperature, engine load, and many other parameters.
Don't want take my word for it? How about straight from the GM FAQ (other manufacturers use similar algorithms)...
How is what you spent on a car relevant at all? The truck that I referenced before cost over $40,000 and the one that just replaced it was a lot more than that. BFD.
Don't want take my word for it? How about straight from the GM FAQ (other manufacturers use similar algorithms)...
How is what you spent on a car relevant at all? The truck that I referenced before cost over $40,000 and the one that just replaced it was a lot more than that. BFD.
#50
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#51
Burning Brakes
Please,can i will go back to the OP inquiry?
Please,can i will go back to the OP inquiry?
Any flat tappet Chevy engine cam (Except 86 aluminium head Corvettes and 87 over) will need ZDDP additive that are NOT included anymore in ANY oils being synthetic or not of any kind since our environmental friendly oil have to get to the specified specs of those same environmental friendly governments...
So if you are to get to ANY oil, Being the BEST or ANY lower quality grade 5-10-20-W something grade synthetic or not oil you will have to get some ZDDP additive added to this oil period, since new green oil does not lubricate flat tappet cam like these old oil that as lubrified those engines when new...
ZDDP additive bottle are wildly available thru e-bay and speed shop's around!
Any flat tappet Chevy engine cam (Except 86 aluminium head Corvettes and 87 over) will need ZDDP additive that are NOT included anymore in ANY oils being synthetic or not of any kind since our environmental friendly oil have to get to the specified specs of those same environmental friendly governments...
So if you are to get to ANY oil, Being the BEST or ANY lower quality grade 5-10-20-W something grade synthetic or not oil you will have to get some ZDDP additive added to this oil period, since new green oil does not lubricate flat tappet cam like these old oil that as lubrified those engines when new...
ZDDP additive bottle are wildly available thru e-bay and speed shop's around!
#52
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Please,can i will go back to the OP inquiry?
Any flat tappet Chevy engine cam (Except 86 aluminium head Corvettes and 87 over) will need ZDDP additive that are NOT included anymore in ANY oils being synthetic or not of any kind since our environmental friendly oil have to get to the specified specs of those same environmental friendly governments...
So if you are to get to ANY oil, Being the BEST or ANY lower quality grade 5-10-20-W something grade synthetic or not oil you will have to get some ZDDP additive added to this oil period, since new green oil does not lubricate flat tappet cam like these old oil that as lubrified those engines when new...
ZDDP additive bottle are wildly available thru e-bay and speed shop's around!
Any flat tappet Chevy engine cam (Except 86 aluminium head Corvettes and 87 over) will need ZDDP additive that are NOT included anymore in ANY oils being synthetic or not of any kind since our environmental friendly oil have to get to the specified specs of those same environmental friendly governments...
So if you are to get to ANY oil, Being the BEST or ANY lower quality grade 5-10-20-W something grade synthetic or not oil you will have to get some ZDDP additive added to this oil period, since new green oil does not lubricate flat tappet cam like these old oil that as lubrified those engines when new...
ZDDP additive bottle are wildly available thru e-bay and speed shop's around!
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2883.pdf
#53
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Good info
There's alot of good information here as well as opinions. I how'ever will never let my engine go 10,000 miles before an oil change. No matter what oil i use, just my 2 cents.
#54
Burning Brakes
I will not over due any oil change in my Corvette since i do about 3K miles a year and i will get the oil/filter replaced with new Mobil 1/Penzoil platinum at the storage time anyway/anyhow with any mileage being done with that synthetic oil...
#55
Race Director
#56
Burning Brakes
I have absolutly no profit in it
Sorry but...I'd like to give information to this OP guy and others who will ask for info...(And i have absolutly no profit in it!)
Since you are the ones that will tell anyone that run any SBC from 86 aluminium head and older SBC V8 they will now need ZPPB additive in there oil if not actually added anyway...i have absolutly no profit in it!)
Since you are the ones that will tell anyone that run any SBC from 86 aluminium head and older SBC V8 they will now need ZPPB additive in there oil if not actually added anyway...i have absolutly no profit in it!)
#58
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Might want to do a fact check first...
Dino oil with ZDDP levels commiserate with flat tappet cam motors: Example = Comp Cams Break-in oil (and as you indicated, they too offer a ZDDP additive for modern oils destined for engines with flat tappets)
Synthetic specifically formulated for flat tappet cams, dating back to API SL, SJ, SH, SG
e.g., Amsoil LINK
P.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 02-18-2012 at 05:29 AM.
#60
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Not to get too far off subject.. A old shady used car dealer trick here... Ya got a car smoking from Bad rings,valve guides,etc. Drain old reg oil out.. New filter and pure synthetic in it. Presto NO Smoke!! Snythetic oil burns clear. The minute the poor sap that buys the car from Dealer or more likely auction changes his oil not knowing better and puts conventional back in... CROPDUSTER!!!!