PHILLIE PHANATIC

How do you guys feel about this product? Is it worth the $, is it worth it in a weekend driver? Will I gain any noticeable difference?

Tom400CFI

Gain a noticeable difference in what? Power? No. Cooling? Maybe if your system is at it's limit -which it shouldn't be. Maintenance costs? Possibly, unless you drain your coolant for mods and then you'll be wasting money.

mtwoolford

a good buy if your second car is a World War II P51 fighter plane.

dirtymike77

my friend uses it exclusively for the HEMI's he swaps into prowlers and it's the only stuff that keeps them from overheating. If you need the absolute best cooling capability then this stuff is great

mtwoolford

I think that says it all

TommyFox

I have been using it for years. When I buy a new car I replace it with Evan's pronto. Never have had to replace a heater core or water pump. Once and done. Lasts forever. Contains no water. Best coolant period!!! Spend the money. Boiling point is 300 some degrees so if you spring a leak you won't overheat as quickly.

Tom400CFI

Right. I get that. But if I'm "that guy" that's pulling heads, cams, blocks etc every year for upgrades/changes, whatever...then why would I use a high end boutique product that's going to end up in a drain pan?

OTOH, If I bought a sweet, low mile stocker and I was keeping it stock and driving it, then definitely worth consideration.

TommyFox

:
You drain it in a clean(coolant only) closed pan and reuse it. You can pour it through a filter if anything gets in there but if you are pulling heads every year then I would not use it either since nothing in the system stays for long. I don't screw that much with my cars any more so avoiding corrosion is my greatest concern.

I don't think many on here pull the heads off every year but I could be wrong

1991Z07

Tommy Fox hit it on the head...

Drain, filter and reuse.

The benefits FAR outweigh the other issues. If you have an Opti car, you never have to worry about the water pump taking a crap on the opti...and what's THAT worth in time and frustration?

Add to that that PRESSURE never builds up in a system with Evans. There is no "steam" so there is no pressure buildup in the hoses and radiator, making those last longer as well.

All around, it is a great product. Will NOT promote corrosion in anything internal in the motor, water pump, radiator or heater core...really a great product.

Did I say it's a great product?

TommyFox

Also you can run a lower pressure radiator cap.Hey I get it. It's expensive.$39.00 a gallon.

84VetteMan205hp

i should try this.

TommyFox

If you can't find it locally order it from Hoerr Racing products out of Peoria Illinois.

Or HRPworld .com Order it online. Small shipping fee on unlimited number. It's a special they run.

Don't buy the prep. Buy 3 0r 4 gallon's of distilled water 60cents each. Drain and run that. It will give you some good practice on how to drain and flush if you haven't done it before

Tom400CFI

Copy all that above.

FYI, Pressure doesn't build in a cooling system due to "steam".

Klondike

I have never heard of this product before this posting. I always wondered why there wasn't something better than water for engine cooling. With all the advanced oil products on the market now, it seems like cooling systems are still in the "steam age".
I went to their website and everything they said about this stuff seems like something custom made for an LTx engine. [Countless threads here about hot running Lt's.] Without pressure in the cooling system I could have avoided some times when my windshield fogged up due to a dreaded heater core leak. It may be expensive, but keeping an aging C4 from having heat stroke in central Texas seems worth it.

lurch59

Well, there may be a performance advantage, Hot spots form around the exhaust seat, and when the spark plug ignites the air fuel mixture, there is a near instantaneous rise in cylinder pressure which causes a second ignition point in the cylinder near the exhaust valve, which results in poor flame front travel/collisions. I've seen dyno sheets with improved torque/hp levels after an Evans coolant change. BTW, the hot spots form because coolant/water mixtures boil slightly near the exhaust valve, and air in the coolant transfers heat very poorly.
Water causes corrosion and electrolysis of dissimilar metals, and the pressure in the system stresses the joints in the radiator, hoses and heater core. Look at ATSM specs for antifreeze, they measure how much the coolant destroys solder by measuring tin and lead levels dissolved in it. That's your rad and heater core that's going to spring a leak and need to be replaced. Not to mention the OAT stuff in traditional antifreeze flaking off and beating the impeller of your waterpump to death.
The boiling point of Evans is 370 F at 0 psi. I use it in my diesels, and will be using it in my '69 when the big block gets finished.

Aardwolf

Hmm I may switch to this. Does anyone know if it's legal for racing? Some tracks and clubs don't allow anti-freeze for racing (spill+wrecks).

LoneStarV

Yes it is legal for racing. If you switch to Evans read up on it. Your engine MUST be bone dry ZERO water in it period or you defeat the advantage of using it. Short of pulling the engine i don't know how you would be sure you got all the water/antifreeze out of your block. Or you could buy a bunch of it and pour in a constant feed while flushing it through your entire system. That would run into some $$$$$ even buying it on amazon.

TommyFox

They have a flush that absorbs the water and then you drain it but same cost as the coolant. I flush with distilled water and drain hot. Leave system open for a day or two and remove air and what little moisture is left with an airlift tool. I have had zero corrosion after tearing down a few cars and have never replaced a water pump or heater core.

LoneStarV

It's an interesting product. For my vette for the street i'll stick with the Dexcool. Zero overheating problems zero corrosion. Rad looks like the day it was made. Way cheaper than Evans plus catch a sale at Wally World and it really gets cheap. I get the premixed stuff and just pour it in.

lurch59

I'll respectfully disagree that there is zero corrosion, one would have to evaluate for solder loss. Remember the old days, discussions of sacrificial anodes, etc.? All pase, as there is no water to carry an electric current. There are tests one can perform with sensitive voltmeters that detect a small electric charge indicating electrolysis, ie we are creating a battery with dissimilar metals. Now I will stipulate that this may not matter all that much, especially if one does not keep the car for decades. But, to some extent this is an academic discussion....

There is a refractometer you can buy to test for water, and I have been able to achieve the recommended less than 3 percent residual water in the system.

I will ask my engine builder if he will dyno test my motor with and without Evans coolant. The engine should be done soon. He may not want to bother, he thinks I'm a bit wacky anyway, he may be right!