ps374

I have been told my 84 needs rear wheel bearings. Is this type of job as simple as most rear wheel drive cars or being a car with rear wheel independent suspension not something your average unprofessional mechanic should attempt?

Klyde

It is a hard project but not impossible for a home mechanic. You either remove the half shafts and replace the bearing hub while the rear knuckle is still in the car or you remove everything attached to the knuckle and remove it. Once removed replacing the bearing hub is easy. A few suggestions.
A. Replace the Teflon washers on the back side of the spindle.
B. Get new axle nuts and locking caps.
C. Put some never seize on the spindle splines when reassembling.
D. If removing the half shafts replace the U-Joints with Spicer Solid U-Joints Kit ( DennysDriveshaft.Com ).
E. Buy a new Torx Bit for the three bearing hub bolts.

Cliff Harris

And don't forget the 36mm socket for the spindle nut. You'll need a long breaker bar. That nut is very tight. You're supposed to torque it some number that was higher than my torque wrench went so I just put it on "tight".

vetteoz

Shown on a later model without the internal park brake but procedure the same
Check / replace the PB shoes while you have it all apart

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562

Klyde

MIBearings has a set of tapered rear bearing hubs for less then $300.00 shipped. That's what I use and so far so good. They cast the hub or housing for just about everyone else. They just use their own housing and install a specific tapered bearing and sell them together. The tappered bearing should be able to withstand more side ways pressure which the rear gets a lot of.

samsonb

I'm doing my rear wheel bearings and ujoints. Went with Moog 513013 bearings and Spicer ujoints. Though the Moog bearing came with a large o-ring. Not sure if that should be used or not. But looks like there is a groove cut into the bearing for the large o-ring.