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Took out the tone generator from inside the dash due to no warning buzzer for headlights left on, key left in ignition, etc. Bench tested it, Tried soldering a few questionable solder joints on the board. Still didn't function, so I ordered a replacement off of eBay.
Kind of a low key day around the house so decided to go after the dash and my inoperable Interior light delay module, and to replace the crappy bose stereo...so I begin ripping into it and everything is going smoothly until this...
What damned Tom Foolery is this?!?
Yes this is what shenanigans I found from the previous owner...no wonder the stereo sounded like crap...So what would have been an easy hour job now isnt! Will have to figure out which wires go to which speaker, which is for power, ground, antenna, dimmer, etc.
Disconnected the old crappy bose, and just shaking my head, saying 'WTF' to myself
D.
just use a c battery or even a 9volt to test speaker location, LF, RR,LR,RF ECT...... always halted butchering a factory harness just for a stereo
They are tire stickers. Got them on eBay for less than tirestickers.com
Oh, I have heard of them. I always wondered if they would last long and if they would look right on a tire or if you would see the actual tire letters too much and the white ones would stick out from the tire. They look good though. Here’s a picture of my white letters after I just fixed them up today.
replaced blower motor, blower control module, a/c fuse, under hood fuse, removed interior panels to check connection at back of climate control, and still no power going to the blower motor. So I had fun.
Kind of a low key day around the house so decided to go after the dash and my inoperable Interior light delay module, and to replace the crappy bose stereo...so I begin ripping into it and everything is going smoothly until this...
What damned Tom Foolery is this?!?
Yes this is what shenanigans I found from the previous owner...no wonder the stereo sounded like crap...So what would have been an easy hour job now isnt! Will have to figure out which wires go to which speaker, which is for power, ground, antenna, dimmer, etc.
Disconnected the old crappy bose, and just shaking my head, saying 'WTF' to myself
D.
I don't understand why people can't just spend the few extra dollars and get the plug in factory harness to wire their aftermarket radio to??
replaced blower motor, blower control module, a/c fuse, under hood fuse, removed interior panels to check connection at back of climate control, and still no power going to the blower motor. So I had fun.
makes it easier this way.
Nows the time to change that damn opti lol
why the engine pull? Upgrading or rebuilding?
It's the Opti that started this whole thing. Leaking heater hose, corroded the harness, put in a new harness but still had issues. In the process of removing lower pulley I see that the crank moved almost a 1/4". Endplay was a little out of spec. Putting in a longblock I got through OReilly's with a 3 year warranty. The engine has 178,000 on it, crank is wiped where the thrust bearing went bad. Found that a previous owner hollowed out the cats but didn't put a sleeve pipe in so new cats are on the way. No upgrades just don't want to open up the inevitable can of worms and extra expense. Besides, I enjoyed the car the way it was and based on a few things I've seen while dis-assembling like a wiped cam lobe and the stupid catalytic converter mod it will probably perform better than it did before.
It's the Opti that started this whole thing. Leaking heater hose, corroded the harness, put in a new harness but still had issues. In the process of removing lower pulley I see that the crank moved almost a 1/4". Endplay was a little out of spec. Putting in a longblock I got through OReilly's with a 3 year warranty. The engine has 178,000 on it, crank is wiped where the thrust bearing went bad. Found that a previous owner hollowed out the cats but didn't put a sleeve pipe in so new cats are on the way. No upgrades just don't want to open up the inevitable can of worms and extra expense. Besides, I enjoyed the car the way it was and based on a few things I've seen while dis-assembling like a wiped cam lobe and the stupid catalytic converter mod it will probably perform better than it did before.
if you have the engine out you might as well go ahead and upgrade things like the heads, Cam, and intake, who wouldn’t? you enjoy the car the way it is but I’m sure everyone would enjoy it even more with extra power hahaha
It's the Opti that started this whole thing. Leaking heater hose, corroded the harness, put in a new harness but still had issues. In the process of removing lower pulley I see that the crank moved almost a 1/4". Endplay was a little out of spec. Putting in a longblock I got through OReilly's with a 3 year warranty. The engine has 178,000 on it, crank is wiped where the thrust bearing went bad. Found that a previous owner hollowed out the cats but didn't put a sleeve pipe in so new cats are on the way. No upgrades just don't want to open up the inevitable can of worms and extra expense. Besides, I enjoyed the car the way it was and based on a few things I've seen while dis-assembling like a wiped cam lobe and the stupid catalytic converter mod it will probably perform better than it did before.
oh wow.
I’d upgrade it while out.
LT1 is not bad on power, but you can always use more power lol.
I need to change all 4 rotors because it shakes when I brake a little hard. Car only has 32K on the clock. I’m pretty sure it’s on original hardware. Also need to change out rear bearing hubs. Noisy when cold.
Had to replace the window wiper seal and fix the door card as it wouldn't stay in place at the top. Looked at various solutions offered up online and decided to fabricate three aluminium angle brackets that help to hook the panel in place. The brackets are held in place by countersunk self tapping screws inserted from the top. Panel stays in place properly now.
Two of the ribs in the door had developed very small cracks so I reinforced them with steel brackets, screws and glue. '93 C4 LH door card repair
Had to replace the window wiper seal and fix the door card as it wouldn't stay in place at the top. Looked at various solutions offered up online and decided to fabricate three aluminium angle brackets that help to hook the panel in place. The brackets are held in place by countersunk self tapping screws inserted from the top. Panel stays in place properly now.
Two of the ribs in the door had developed very small cracks so I reinforced them with steel brackets, screws and glue. '93 C4 LH door card repair
Can you post more on the brackets you fabbed up?
Thanks in advance
Can you post more on the brackets you fabbed up?
Thanks in advance
Hi, if you mean the "hook" brackets to hold the door card onto the top of the door? Sorry I have no other pics,they are made of aluminium about 2mm thick. If you look at a door card end on you can see the angle of the top of the card that hooks onto the door, the brackets extend this and are at the same angle. I had adjust this angle when trying to get a good fit and suggest that you take the bracket off to bend it else you will likely crack the plastic where you have attached it.
The rib strengthening brackets are overkill being made of 1.5mm steel and the only reason I used steel was so that I could put a spot of weld onto the slot I had to cut to get the angle correct to match the plastic rib ( I have only got a stick welder) So really they are now like the old saying goes "an elephant is a mouse built to railway specifications".
I liked the look of another ribs repair I spotted later where someone used fibreglass chopped strand mixed with super glue to do the job. I suspect fibreglass resin might not adhere too well to the plastic?
08-19-2018, 10:30 PM
you enjoy the car the way it is but I’m sure everyone would enjoy it even more with extra power hahaha 
