What did you do to your C4 today?
#3382
You bet!
Better then trying to rebuild an old one.
Better then trying to rebuild an old one.
#3383
Racer
Changed front crank seal and cam seal. Put the Mitsu sensor in my AIP Opti "just because", then sealed it up with RTV. I did find when I was under the car that the oil level sensor wires were hanging on by a thread right at the connector. Guess I'll twist them together and check my oil the old fashioned way with that funny dipstick thing.
#3384
Racer
Changed front crank seal and cam seal. Put the Mitsu sensor in my AIP Opti "just because", then sealed it up with RTV. I did find when I was under the car that the oil level sensor wires were hanging on by a thread right at the connector. Guess I'll twist them together and check my oil the old fashioned way with that funny dipstick thing.
these are available for my 92 on RockAuto...
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/c...onnector,15702
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2LZ (01-29-2018)
#3385
Melting Slicks
temps rose a bit here in NY so I decided to start it up and move it out of the garage. Battery was low so I had to charge it up. Cleaned the car and moved it back into garage and covered it up. Waiting for a nice dry day and will take it out for a spin. Planning on Battery replacement soon and perhaps new tires. Checked date codes on the Goodyears and they are approaching 8 years old. I've got my eye on some tires that are on special with tire rack. Riken Raptor 275/40R17 UHP summer tires on closeout $386 delivered. Local Firestone dealer does mount and balance for $15 per tire. I've had experience with Riken tires in the past and I was pleasantly pleased at the performance. Reviews are great and considering how little I drive the car, these will work out great.
#3386
Melting Slicks
Like so many others today with the great weather I took the Vette out for a ride with my son. He is 15 with a learners permit so I let him drive for a while. All was going well until we stopped to get a drink and then the car would not crank. Dash would light up, did not attempt to crank so I assume it was the VATS. After trying multiple times without success I called the wife to bring the truck. Then my son tries again and it started right up, and has multiple times since then. Looks like its time to bypass the VAT system..
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PSU69 (01-30-2018)
#3387
Drifting
Well, the weather is starting to get warmer and my first event is in two weeks and I am motivated to get the car ready. Today, I took the car out of the trailer and had some programming changes done to the Holley HP EFI System. Put some new BFG Rival S tires on, rub off some cone marks from last year, wax the car, and put in some Sunoco Go-Fast juice. This weekend, I'll have the alignment check, and after that, corner weigh the car.
There are three events scheduled next month.
There are three events scheduled next month.
#3389
Racer
With the front stuff off the motor, I pulled the crank sensor and replaced the o-ring last night while it was easily accessible. Ran a bead of RTV around it too. I think this and the front main seal were the largest leak culprits. Have to take advantage of this nicer weather while it lasts. I hate laying on a garage floor when it's freezing.
The only gaskets/seals I haven't done are the pan and rear main. These wont be happening anytime soon.
The only gaskets/seals I haven't done are the pan and rear main. These wont be happening anytime soon.
#3390
Drifting
Put some moisture bags in my Ruby over the weekend. The joys of winter time in Michigan!
#3391
Instructor
Updates to my 85
I've had her since May 17 and we are getting there little by little:
New Years Eve I installed new mufflers. The previous owner ran muffler deletes, it sounded great at first but my wife and neighbors didn't like it so much.
Last night I repaired the fuel sending unit. The tank has shown Full since I've had it. I was prepared to clean the contacts and hope that fixed it. What I found was that at some point the fuel pump was replaced, and then the unit was jammed back into the tank. The actual sensor was dangling in the tank by the wire, the float arm was bent 180 degrees behind the unit and the electrical connection (attached to the arm) that created the fuel level on the sensor was broken. Wish I had pictures, but I wasn't going near my phone while covered in gas. After a little soldering, bending/prying, other adjustments and a new fuel pump....I have a working gauge again.
I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm which I had believed to be the culprit behind raw fuel in my vacuum lines and reason behind the hard starts and raw fuel smell in my exhaust. Removed the old diaphragm and while not torn, the rubber was mostly gone on both sides leaving the screen/mesh only. Even after 3 months, there was fuel in my vacuum lines. The fuel ate through the T coupling on the vacuum line where it splits off at the front of the engine. I'm headed to the parts store today to buy a kit to replace all the vacuum line fittings.
This weekend will be the OD filter, trans fluid top off and differential fluid. Followed by the knock sensor and pigtail. Lots to do before 4/1, I promised my wife we would go on a ride where we won't smell like gas when we get home.
#3392
Racer
#3393
Fuel pressure regulator.
How difficult was the fuel pressure regulator swap? I assume you had to remove the plenum and fuel rail to get to it?
I've had her since May 17 and we are getting there little by little:
New Years Eve I installed new mufflers. The previous owner ran muffler deletes, it sounded great at first but my wife and neighbors didn't like it so much.
Last night I repaired the fuel sending unit. The tank has shown Full since I've had it. I was prepared to clean the contacts and hope that fixed it. What I found was that at some point the fuel pump was replaced, and then the unit was jammed back into the tank. The actual sensor was dangling in the tank by the wire, the float arm was bent 180 degrees behind the unit and the electrical connection (attached to the arm) that created the fuel level on the sensor was broken. Wish I had pictures, but I wasn't going near my phone while covered in gas. After a little soldering, bending/prying, other adjustments and a new fuel pump....I have a working gauge again.
I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm which I had believed to be the culprit behind raw fuel in my vacuum lines and reason behind the hard starts and raw fuel smell in my exhaust. Removed the old diaphragm and while not torn, the rubber was mostly gone on both sides leaving the screen/mesh only. Even after 3 months, there was fuel in my vacuum lines. The fuel ate through the T coupling on the vacuum line where it splits off at the front of the engine. I'm headed to the parts store today to buy a kit to replace all the vacuum line fittings.
This weekend will be the OD filter, trans fluid top off and differential fluid. Followed by the knock sensor and pigtail. Lots to do before 4/1, I promised my wife we would go on a ride where we won't smell like gas when we get home.
I've had her since May 17 and we are getting there little by little:
New Years Eve I installed new mufflers. The previous owner ran muffler deletes, it sounded great at first but my wife and neighbors didn't like it so much.
Last night I repaired the fuel sending unit. The tank has shown Full since I've had it. I was prepared to clean the contacts and hope that fixed it. What I found was that at some point the fuel pump was replaced, and then the unit was jammed back into the tank. The actual sensor was dangling in the tank by the wire, the float arm was bent 180 degrees behind the unit and the electrical connection (attached to the arm) that created the fuel level on the sensor was broken. Wish I had pictures, but I wasn't going near my phone while covered in gas. After a little soldering, bending/prying, other adjustments and a new fuel pump....I have a working gauge again.
I also replaced the fuel pressure regulator diaphragm which I had believed to be the culprit behind raw fuel in my vacuum lines and reason behind the hard starts and raw fuel smell in my exhaust. Removed the old diaphragm and while not torn, the rubber was mostly gone on both sides leaving the screen/mesh only. Even after 3 months, there was fuel in my vacuum lines. The fuel ate through the T coupling on the vacuum line where it splits off at the front of the engine. I'm headed to the parts store today to buy a kit to replace all the vacuum line fittings.
This weekend will be the OD filter, trans fluid top off and differential fluid. Followed by the knock sensor and pigtail. Lots to do before 4/1, I promised my wife we would go on a ride where we won't smell like gas when we get home.
#3394
Instructor
It wasn't bad, with the exception of the weather outside it was tough to leave the garage door open to vent the fumes.
1. Cover the Schrader valve on the fuel rail and depressurize the system
2. Disconnect the battery
After that it's straight forward
Remove the plenum, use a T-10 security Torx bit to remove the screws on top of the FPR, when installing the new parts be careful lining up the holes on the new diaphragm as you can tear it easily, start each screw back in by hand. It was at this point I realized that the spring has to compress inside the housing as you tighten the screws. I went around and treated it like lug nuts, skip every other one until they are all snug. Then tighten them all down but don't over do it.
If yours is bad and leaking, I would suggest checking the vacuum lines for fuel damage. all the rubber connectors on the vacuum lines between the FPR and the air pump had been eaten by the raw fuel. I'm going to check the canister as well. I understand it can be disassembled and a new charcoal filter installed.
Last edited by Buckeye88; 01-30-2018 at 11:26 AM.
#3395
Instructor
Been too darn cold to do much but I did replace something that has bothered me since buying my Polo. I replaced the C4 gas door emblem. Hard part was getting 24 year old adhesive off. Now I feel better!
#3396
Burning Brakes
new camshaft and cam chain
#3397
Drifting
#3398
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Oct 2017
Location: Somewhere near Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 788
Received 103 Likes
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71 Posts
Put my 96 up on a friend's four post lift so I could get a good look at the underside. Everything looked good, u-joints seemed tight, diff not leaking, Shocks look original (Do dealer replacement shocks have Delco stickers on them?) Rear tires are 11 years old or so... One looked low so I checked it and it had 9 psi. I bumped them all up to 40 which was as high as my friends pressure gauge would go. Everything looked good underneath, but the engine looks like oil leaks from every gasket it can. Front and rear mains, oil pan, valve covers, intake, just about everywhere. Maybe next winter I'll pull it out for gaskets, and cam it while I'm in there.
#3399
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Dec 2005
Location: Where Woke Goes to Die
Posts: 8,194
Received 615 Likes
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431 Posts
Put my 96 up on a friend's four post lift so I could get a good look at the underside. Everything looked good, u-joints seemed tight, diff not leaking, Shocks look original (Do dealer replacement shocks have Delco stickers on them?) Rear tires are 11 years old or so... One looked low so I checked it and it had 9 psi. I bumped them all up to 40 which was as high as my friends pressure gauge would go. Everything looked good underneath, but the engine looks like oil leaks from every gasket it can. Front and rear mains, oil pan, valve covers, intake, just about everywhere. Maybe next winter I'll pull it out for gaskets, and cam it while I'm in there.