pologreen1

Looking to upgrade. I like the newer look better.

Bluezman

Hi.

I've been all through this same idea. Unless you don't mind that the dash lines won't align with the doors, they won't fit. It seems like they should work. I tried to make a set work on mine thinking it would be possible to get a "factory" look. There just isn't a good way to make everything line up. I can't clearly recall all the problems, but it was beyond what I could handle or tolerate and I have taken on some really complicated modifications. I wish it would work because I like the newer door panels more than the ones on my '90 convertible.

On an unrelated subject (but you'll get where I'm going), I decided to put seat hoops on my car. I love the way they look so I took the leap utterly perplexed that it hadn't been done before. The chrome seat hoops are pretty expensive, but after trying my hardest to quantify every possible hurdle, I ordered them.

First it required new carpet since my existing carpet was pretty ratty and I wanted to trim around the hoops. Then I decided to modify the tonneau lid to add seat bumps behind the hoops like the C5. All that went fine. I had to build up the waterfall panel to get the hoops installed at the right height and position. It took a bunch of fabrication to make them rock solid. Then installed new carpeting and sound-proofing. When I bolted the seats back in, I realized that the factory seats are square on top and don't look very good with the hoops. So I bought C5 seats that contour the same as the hoop profile. The seats I bought were the wrong color, so I bought new leather covers and foam. Then there was the issue of installing the seats back into the stock locations. It was problematic but I managed.

Fast forward to now, and after countless other issues, the car is back together. Finally I was able to take it out for a drive. The new seats sit about two inches higher than the original ones requiring me to slouch in order to see out the windshield. After putting the modified tonneau cover on with the new seat bumps, I discovered that my hardtop brackets hit the front edges of it now and can't be used. I'm going to have to cut notches or something to make it work. Then, just about two hours ago, I finally bolted my ragtop back on to start replacing the top fabric. In the process, I found that the top hits the seat hoops when you try to retract it behind the seats! The frame is too narrow and hits the outer side of each hoop. I finally forced it down as much as I could without scratching the chrome hoops but the tonneau won't close now. I've had it!

The only reason I'm telling you all this (besides feeling completely defeated) is it seems that making a simple modification can be a real headache when there isn't a kit or adapter to make it work.

Its ironic you posted about the door panels because as I was standing there this afternoon staring at the problems I'd caused, I remembered when I tried to update mine. I thought to myself that I was glad I ditched the idea of different door panels. I wish I'd been as clairvoyant about the seat hoops.

pologreen1

That sucks. I do have a smoothline hard top the snaps on top using the soft top attachment points if you sell your hard top and maybe buy that one.

I looked at seat hoops that were made years ago, but not for me. I prefer a functional one or a even a race one. If you want to start over I also have a mitch piper roll bar for sale for a c4 vert. Just saying.

I guess for now I'll forget the door panels. can you post pics of the deck lid you did again please?

Bluezman

I thought about a smoothline top. Good price on that one. I just finished painting and polishing mine. I'm going to make it work.

My seat hoops are about as structural as they can be. But I agree, it would be nice to have hoops that were designed to keep the car from crushing occupants in a roll-over. Still, these look great and would help I think... Maybe not.

I think I've figured out a way to get the soft-top to clear. It will take modifications to a pivot point on each side, but I believe it can be done. Once its finished and powdercoated it will function and look like a factory part. Its just a big pain to find these little problems when I've worked so hard to pre-think and take precautions to eliminate them.

I have the car sort of torn apart again right now as I deal with these new mods. When I have it back together, I'll post a few photos here. I hope you like it.

-=Jeff=-

yes they fit..



I added the 94-96 Lower hush panel too (kept the 1990 main dash pad)

Bluezman

Interesting. I stand corrected. But the panels I had didn't fit or look like that. Maybe I had something different?? I just remember that things didn't appear to line up the way they should and was going to look wrong. Oh well...

Roentgen Ray Man

bumping an old thread. I’m doing the same thing. If you see this comment, did you attach the new panel with the rivets (like 94-96) or did you use screws?

-=Jeff=-

along the bottom? I used the GM plastic rivet/ press pins. I used black as they were easier to find

Roentgen Ray Man

thanks. Any issue with it being too tight when you close the door?

yakmastermax

On this issue, can 90-93 panels be installed in a 94-96 car if you prefer the look of the older panels?

-=Jeff=-

no fit fine with the 90-93 dash

Only thing would be the door pulls.. ont he 90-93 they are a different location than 94-96 so swapping either way you may need to swap these, These are in the inner panel metalwork and riveted to the that panel..

the other thing is the texture of the black at the top of the panels will not match, my 94-96 texture does not match the 90-93 dash and vise versa, if I could make arm rest storage pockets for the earlier panels, I would probably swap the the earlier panels..

Lastly if doing red interior, the only early red is the 1993 torch red interior to match to the 94-96..