Replaced clutch and slave cycinder
05-15-2016, 02:56 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Replaced clutch and slave cycinder
Help , had clutch replaced and sleeve and master cyinder have to pump clutch few times to shift but can't get in reverse , get gear grinding , can put in reverse when car off when car on load grinding noise till its in gear . Garage told me bring back any ideas i can tell them to look for , hoses where not replaced
05-15-2016, 06:32 AM
#2
Safety Car
Help , had clutch replaced and sleeve and master cyinder have to pump clutch few times to shift but can't get in reverse , get gear grinding , can put in reverse when car off when car on load grinding noise till its in gear . Garage told me bring back any ideas i can tell them to look for , hoses where not replaced
Had the master and slave replaced on mine and had the same symptoms. My mechanic bled and bled the system but still had the gear grinding issue. I found a video on YouTube that showed how to use a brake bleeding tip and hose to do it. I tried it but it failed to fix the grinding issue. I happened to work with a guy who was a former GM mechanic and he gave me the tip that resolved it.
Reservoir filled, cap off, engine off. Pump the clutch pedal 5-10 times quickly and the last time hold it to the floor about 5 minutes. At the end of the time, slide your foot off the clutch pedal and let it pop up on it's own. The idea is that once you've pumped it up and held the clutch that any air in the line will work it's way up to the loop right above the master cylinder. When you release the pedal, the pressure of the slave returning quickly will force the air out of the line back into the master cylinder. I ended up doing it twice to insure it was all out, the clutch was solid after doing that and it's been solid ever since.
It's possible you have something else going on and could be clutch related or something else but my nickel says it's air in the line.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
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jimduffy (05-15-2016)
05-15-2016, 02:20 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
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Sounds like you have the infamous "Air in the line" issue, been there - done that. Now how to fix it if that's your issue - here's what I did back in 2013 on mine.
Had the master and slave replaced on mine and had the same symptoms. My mechanic bled and bled the system but still had the gear grinding issue. I found a video on YouTube that showed how to use a brake bleeding tip and hose to do it. I tried it but it failed to fix the grinding issue. I happened to work with a guy who was a former GM mechanic and he gave me the tip that resolved it.
Reservoir filled, cap off, engine off. Pump the clutch pedal 5-10 times quickly and the last time hold it to the floor about 5 minutes. At the end of the time, slide your foot off the clutch pedal and let it pop up on it's own. The idea is that once you've pumped it up and held the clutch that any air in the line will work it's way up to the loop right above the master cylinder. When you release the pedal, the pressure of the slave returning quickly will force the air out of the line back into the master cylinder. I ended up doing it twice to insure it was all out, the clutch was solid after doing that and it's been solid ever since.
It's possible you have something else going on and could be clutch related or something else but my nickel says it's air in the line.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
Had the master and slave replaced on mine and had the same symptoms. My mechanic bled and bled the system but still had the gear grinding issue. I found a video on YouTube that showed how to use a brake bleeding tip and hose to do it. I tried it but it failed to fix the grinding issue. I happened to work with a guy who was a former GM mechanic and he gave me the tip that resolved it.
Reservoir filled, cap off, engine off. Pump the clutch pedal 5-10 times quickly and the last time hold it to the floor about 5 minutes. At the end of the time, slide your foot off the clutch pedal and let it pop up on it's own. The idea is that once you've pumped it up and held the clutch that any air in the line will work it's way up to the loop right above the master cylinder. When you release the pedal, the pressure of the slave returning quickly will force the air out of the line back into the master cylinder. I ended up doing it twice to insure it was all out, the clutch was solid after doing that and it's been solid ever since.
It's possible you have something else going on and could be clutch related or something else but my nickel says it's air in the line.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
Jimduffy this is good advice. Do you have clutch chatter?
The only thing I can add is my experience. In 2014 I had both the clutch master and slave cylinder replaced and brought it back because the master cylinder was defective. In 2015 the clutch was replaced and I had to bring the car back 3 more times until the finally got it right, it was bad parts again. I am guessing bad part as the other possibility but since all done at once it is a little harder to narrow down. Good luck.
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jimduffy (05-15-2016)
05-16-2016, 10:38 PM
#4
Race Director
I had the clutch pivot ball get loose and it caused my pedal to go really low. It finally got so bad that the fork was contacting the back of the pressure plate. Not good! I couldn't figure out what it was till I took the whole darn thing apart again though. What a pain to find something so simple, but you couldn't find or fix it without taking it all down and out of the car!
