My 1984 Crossfire Build
09-16-2016, 07:01 PM
#1
My 1984 Crossfire Build
Long time reader, first time poster.
When I got married a short while ago my father in law gave me a 1984 corvette as a wedding gift. I guess he wanted me to keep his daughter for the long haul.
Engine was the stock L83 Crossfire. Father in law had it checked over mechanically (but the mechanic he sent it to was horrible from what I found). TPS sensor, spark plugs, wires, etc were replaced. TPS sensor is at .525v and the throttle bodies are balanced and spray nicely.
What is my goal then? Well, this is a toy for me. My goal is a low RPM high torque street driver with a few trips to the drag strips a year (Island Dragway or Englishtown Raceway). Basically the goal is 400 torque (eventually). However, the challenge is to keep the Crossfire or use an OEM replacement, stock ECM, and keep the original unmodified heads (I know, holding myself back, but I gotta keep some of it still as a 1984). I want a grin on my face when I am driving this thing around the lakes with the top off.
Whats wrong with the car? Because we all know a car that is 32 years old will need some TLC in at least some areas. Valve covers are leaking oil. Cat is clogged. Rear shocks leaking. Read differential seal leaking. Basically lots of leaks. But hey, new stereo system because that's what my wife made her father put in, so yay for that (she wanted to connect her ipod to it for music).
Heads:
Heads were 462624 cast with 2.02 in and 1.6 ex for the Corvette (according to Chevytech). Flow numbers online seem to point to the 1.94 in and 1.5 ex heads on the 350 trucks (from the flow #s from Grumpy). The 400 trucks used 1.94 in and 1.6 ex. Everyone said the 624 heads were the lightweight version of the 882 heads, but flow numbers posted were roughly 80% or so at certain lifts when the two were compared. 76cc chamber though, which makes life a bit interesting since it is a static 9:1 compression. New cam and advancing the cam timing will change the dynamic compression so it should make up for it. During the rebuild I will take the heads off and will measure since I am replacing the gaskets throughout the whole engine.
So what am I doing to it? I already got all of the parts from Jegs and Summit, here they are:
Renegade Crossfire Intake Manifold - Does anyone have flow numbers for this thing? Apparently the X-Ram flows at 1440cfm, but this seems to be a better manifold. They solve a lot of the issues with the original crossfire intake and I didn't want to port the original just in case I wanted to switch everything back to stock. The 48mm Rochester throttle bodies and stock injectors will stay. I have heard conflicting reports about their flow numbers (750cfm total on oldcarmemories, 675cfm total from some people, 400cfm each from others). Regardless, with the fuel pressure being increased to 14 psi and using the stock injectors, both the fuel and air flow should be good for me up to 400+ hp. I am not stroking the engine and am not producing enough power to warrant boring out the throttle bodies or buying bigger ones. Ignition timing to be set at 10 degrees advanced instead of stock 6. Will adjust after everything is put together for best results.
New cam: Comp Cam 12-235-2. Duration technically gives an RPM range from 1200-5200RPMs, but the cam card says it starts at 1000rpms. The design of what I am pursuing is maximum torque within that low range and the peak around 3500rpms. Will be installed with cam timing advanced to 10 degrees. This should give a dynamic compression of 8.1, which will work with 93 octane that is at every gas station near me. LSA will be at 111, dropping from the stock 114 which should give a slightly lumpier sound but not bother too much with vacuum. Valve lifts are about 15% more than stock and keeps with the exhaust at a higher lift just like stock too. This is all so the stock ECM can handle this. 1-3k RPMs is where I am trying to maximize power.
Suspension: One of the previous owners replaced the stock shocks with softer AC Delcos. The RPO codes list is missing from the two spots it would be, one of the previous owners must have replaced parts and thrown it away, shame. The shorter steering ratio and 8.5" front rims with 9.5" rear rims confirmed this is a Z51 optioned car (50% of this year seemed to have that package). Rear shocks were leaking so I replaced them with OEM Replacement Bilsteins that have the original or near original values to them. Stance in the rear has changed dramatically. The stiffer rear should help with launches better and prevent the car from sitting. Spent the better part of one night greasing up a bunch of stuff back there and tightening a ton of loose bolts.
Transmission: 30 spline 700r4 thank goodness. Seems the first few thousand of the 1984s had the weaker 27 spline. Stock torque converter is a 2k stall with a 1.85 ratio. I find no need to replace the stock converter yet.
Rear gears: Original Dana 36 is there. Posi is still there and confirmed it is 3.07 gears while it was on the lift. Considering I am not blasting through nearly 500hp this differential will work. 9.42 final drive ration for the first gear is a great compromise between street and drag.
Tires: Original 16" rims are there. I haven't decided if I want to buff them out to make them shiny or keep the original weathered look. 255/50-16 99W BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2 (can they make that any longer?) radials are on there and should give enough traction for most of my applications. Might switch to NT555R's later but they come in 245s and not 255s.
Cooling: Ok, so I am adding 50+% more torque and horsepower. Roughly 1/3 of that apparently becomes heat. Not sure how much of a safety factor was built into the stock cooling system. I confirmed I do not have the stock oil cooler. The cooling system has been worked on by a previous owner. T-stat has been replaced with a 190F. Electric fan is on at 150F, no idea why since the t-stat doesn't open until 190F. I am not going to touch the electric fan but I am replacing the t-stat with a 180F. I am installing a transmission cooler and an engine oil cooler. That should keep the transmission happy and keep temps down with the added power.
Exhaust: Stock ram horn style manifolds. No signs of pre-cats, previous owner took out? Main cat is dead, sometimes you can catch a rotten egg smell. The front y pipe takes two 2.5" tubes into a 3" tube. The rear y pipe takes the 3" tube and breaks it out into 2.25" tubes. Going to delete the rear and front y pipes. Going to install a narrow x pipe where the cat was and go 2.5" tubing to magnaflow mufflers (MPE-12158). Going to use mandrel bent tubes in the rear. The current piping after the cat is rotted, which is causing me to do this. Seems one of the previous owners let the car sit outside with the cat plugged and caused water to collect in the pipes and rust it out.
Misc: Stock hood has a cold air system built into it that routes air from the front. But right underneath that opening hole is a plastic box that connects to the radiator shroud. Going to cut a hole in that to ram more air in there.
Fluids + small stuff: New fluids everywhere, new oxygen sensor, new PCV valve, new valve cover tabs and bolts, anything that I don't know the age on I am replacing just in case.
Camquest says 350hp and 420lb/ft at flywheel using 882 flow rates. We will see what I get. One of my best friends is helping me out, he is a Nissan master mechanic. He knows some guys down the street with a dyno in their shop. After everything is broken in and installed I will run it on the dyno and post it. Whatever it comes out to be I will be happy with.
Also, I am cleaning the poor vette up, she seems to have been collecting quite a bit of grim, will post them later.
When I got married a short while ago my father in law gave me a 1984 corvette as a wedding gift. I guess he wanted me to keep his daughter for the long haul.
Engine was the stock L83 Crossfire. Father in law had it checked over mechanically (but the mechanic he sent it to was horrible from what I found). TPS sensor, spark plugs, wires, etc were replaced. TPS sensor is at .525v and the throttle bodies are balanced and spray nicely.
What is my goal then? Well, this is a toy for me. My goal is a low RPM high torque street driver with a few trips to the drag strips a year (Island Dragway or Englishtown Raceway). Basically the goal is 400 torque (eventually). However, the challenge is to keep the Crossfire or use an OEM replacement, stock ECM, and keep the original unmodified heads (I know, holding myself back, but I gotta keep some of it still as a 1984). I want a grin on my face when I am driving this thing around the lakes with the top off.
Whats wrong with the car? Because we all know a car that is 32 years old will need some TLC in at least some areas. Valve covers are leaking oil. Cat is clogged. Rear shocks leaking. Read differential seal leaking. Basically lots of leaks. But hey, new stereo system because that's what my wife made her father put in, so yay for that (she wanted to connect her ipod to it for music).
Heads:
Heads were 462624 cast with 2.02 in and 1.6 ex for the Corvette (according to Chevytech). Flow numbers online seem to point to the 1.94 in and 1.5 ex heads on the 350 trucks (from the flow #s from Grumpy). The 400 trucks used 1.94 in and 1.6 ex. Everyone said the 624 heads were the lightweight version of the 882 heads, but flow numbers posted were roughly 80% or so at certain lifts when the two were compared. 76cc chamber though, which makes life a bit interesting since it is a static 9:1 compression. New cam and advancing the cam timing will change the dynamic compression so it should make up for it. During the rebuild I will take the heads off and will measure since I am replacing the gaskets throughout the whole engine.
So what am I doing to it? I already got all of the parts from Jegs and Summit, here they are:
Renegade Crossfire Intake Manifold - Does anyone have flow numbers for this thing? Apparently the X-Ram flows at 1440cfm, but this seems to be a better manifold. They solve a lot of the issues with the original crossfire intake and I didn't want to port the original just in case I wanted to switch everything back to stock. The 48mm Rochester throttle bodies and stock injectors will stay. I have heard conflicting reports about their flow numbers (750cfm total on oldcarmemories, 675cfm total from some people, 400cfm each from others). Regardless, with the fuel pressure being increased to 14 psi and using the stock injectors, both the fuel and air flow should be good for me up to 400+ hp. I am not stroking the engine and am not producing enough power to warrant boring out the throttle bodies or buying bigger ones. Ignition timing to be set at 10 degrees advanced instead of stock 6. Will adjust after everything is put together for best results.
New cam: Comp Cam 12-235-2. Duration technically gives an RPM range from 1200-5200RPMs, but the cam card says it starts at 1000rpms. The design of what I am pursuing is maximum torque within that low range and the peak around 3500rpms. Will be installed with cam timing advanced to 10 degrees. This should give a dynamic compression of 8.1, which will work with 93 octane that is at every gas station near me. LSA will be at 111, dropping from the stock 114 which should give a slightly lumpier sound but not bother too much with vacuum. Valve lifts are about 15% more than stock and keeps with the exhaust at a higher lift just like stock too. This is all so the stock ECM can handle this. 1-3k RPMs is where I am trying to maximize power.
Suspension: One of the previous owners replaced the stock shocks with softer AC Delcos. The RPO codes list is missing from the two spots it would be, one of the previous owners must have replaced parts and thrown it away, shame. The shorter steering ratio and 8.5" front rims with 9.5" rear rims confirmed this is a Z51 optioned car (50% of this year seemed to have that package). Rear shocks were leaking so I replaced them with OEM Replacement Bilsteins that have the original or near original values to them. Stance in the rear has changed dramatically. The stiffer rear should help with launches better and prevent the car from sitting. Spent the better part of one night greasing up a bunch of stuff back there and tightening a ton of loose bolts.
Transmission: 30 spline 700r4 thank goodness. Seems the first few thousand of the 1984s had the weaker 27 spline. Stock torque converter is a 2k stall with a 1.85 ratio. I find no need to replace the stock converter yet.
Rear gears: Original Dana 36 is there. Posi is still there and confirmed it is 3.07 gears while it was on the lift. Considering I am not blasting through nearly 500hp this differential will work. 9.42 final drive ration for the first gear is a great compromise between street and drag.
Tires: Original 16" rims are there. I haven't decided if I want to buff them out to make them shiny or keep the original weathered look. 255/50-16 99W BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2 (can they make that any longer?) radials are on there and should give enough traction for most of my applications. Might switch to NT555R's later but they come in 245s and not 255s.
Cooling: Ok, so I am adding 50+% more torque and horsepower. Roughly 1/3 of that apparently becomes heat. Not sure how much of a safety factor was built into the stock cooling system. I confirmed I do not have the stock oil cooler. The cooling system has been worked on by a previous owner. T-stat has been replaced with a 190F. Electric fan is on at 150F, no idea why since the t-stat doesn't open until 190F. I am not going to touch the electric fan but I am replacing the t-stat with a 180F. I am installing a transmission cooler and an engine oil cooler. That should keep the transmission happy and keep temps down with the added power.
Exhaust: Stock ram horn style manifolds. No signs of pre-cats, previous owner took out? Main cat is dead, sometimes you can catch a rotten egg smell. The front y pipe takes two 2.5" tubes into a 3" tube. The rear y pipe takes the 3" tube and breaks it out into 2.25" tubes. Going to delete the rear and front y pipes. Going to install a narrow x pipe where the cat was and go 2.5" tubing to magnaflow mufflers (MPE-12158). Going to use mandrel bent tubes in the rear. The current piping after the cat is rotted, which is causing me to do this. Seems one of the previous owners let the car sit outside with the cat plugged and caused water to collect in the pipes and rust it out.
Misc: Stock hood has a cold air system built into it that routes air from the front. But right underneath that opening hole is a plastic box that connects to the radiator shroud. Going to cut a hole in that to ram more air in there.
Fluids + small stuff: New fluids everywhere, new oxygen sensor, new PCV valve, new valve cover tabs and bolts, anything that I don't know the age on I am replacing just in case.
Camquest says 350hp and 420lb/ft at flywheel using 882 flow rates. We will see what I get. One of my best friends is helping me out, he is a Nissan master mechanic. He knows some guys down the street with a dyno in their shop. After everything is broken in and installed I will run it on the dyno and post it. Whatever it comes out to be I will be happy with.
Also, I am cleaning the poor vette up, she seems to have been collecting quite a bit of grim, will post them later.
Last edited by RustyCFI; 09-16-2016 at 09:14 PM.
09-17-2016, 12:48 AM
#4
Safety Car
Congratulations! It sounds like you're starting off a new life on the right foot!
That's a pretty clean looking '84. How many miles on it? You have a thorough game plan for the car! I have two comments: The 624 heads have 1.94/1.50 valves, and have a reputation for cracking when they get overheated. With your plans for the engine, they are going to be pushed pretty hard! I replaced the heads in my '84 with the 993 iron heads, due to cracks. Same valves & 76 cc chambers. (I need to pass smog check)
Having your fan come on at 150* doesn't make sense. The fan will run all the time. Unnecessary, and hard on the fan. Easy fix: replace the temp sensor with Delco D1855B for 215* on, 200* off. RH head, between #6 and #8.
That's a pretty clean looking '84. How many miles on it? You have a thorough game plan for the car! I have two comments: The 624 heads have 1.94/1.50 valves, and have a reputation for cracking when they get overheated. With your plans for the engine, they are going to be pushed pretty hard! I replaced the heads in my '84 with the 993 iron heads, due to cracks. Same valves & 76 cc chambers. (I need to pass smog check)
Having your fan come on at 150* doesn't make sense. The fan will run all the time. Unnecessary, and hard on the fan. Easy fix: replace the temp sensor with Delco D1855B for 215* on, 200* off. RH head, between #6 and #8.
09-17-2016, 01:26 AM
#5
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
What is my goal then? Well, this is a toy for me. My goal is a low RPM high torque street driver with a few trips to the drag strips a year (Island Dragway or Englishtown Raceway). Basically the goal is 400 torque (eventually). However, the challenge is to keep the Crossfire or use an OEM replacement, stock ECM, and keep the original unmodified heads
*junk yard 400 long block,
*Ported to hell stock intake
*bore'd throttle bodies (did that myself)
*Swirl plates removed, radius'd lid
*224/234 summit flat tappet cam/lifters
*home made/sourced underdrive pullies
*Edelbrock shorty "headers", Y and 3" single exhaust
*90 pph injectors
*Marine TBI application, vacuum referenced FPR
*Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump
That comb, plus a T-5 trans, 3.45 rear gear got the car into the low 13's, but more importantly, it was an around town TORK MONSTER w/some wicked throttle response. It felt like a mean ****. Probably the most fun to drive car that I've owned to date.
09-17-2016, 09:04 AM
#6
Hot Rod Roy:
I'll take your word on the heads, haven't taken them off yet. Where do they normally crack? Middle exhaust ports? Don't see any there at a glance while they are still on. Will look out for them. Broken off the harness and most of the accessories so far. Fan shroud is off and all of the fluids are out. Found a leak coming from the timing cover. I got new gaskets for it but I am going to get a replacement cover just in case. In regards to the fan, thank you very much for that part number and location, saves me from a bunch of new research I would have to do! I definitely agree about it making no sense. Coolant isn't moving, so why is the fan on! Also, it has 86,000 miles on it. It originally came from Florida where it was apparently raced by the first owner until 1986 (trying to figure out where). During 1986 and a PBA parade it hit a pier (yes, a pier). After that it was fixed (minor damage, mainly front body/bumper repair, no damage to chassis), driven occasionally, and generally loved by the guy until 2005. He was diagnosed with cancer and sold the car to my grandfather in law who moved it to NJ. The original owner sadly died a month later after selling the car. My grandfather in law gifted it to my father in law when he opened up their second major location for their family business. My wife fell in love with the car, then with me (in that order). So everything I do to the car I have to make sure it is still drive-able to her. I plan on getting the original invoice for the car with it's RPOs from GM Media Archive for that $50 fee they charged. Trying to learn more about the history of the car. The invoice would be nice to display with the car at the shows.
Tom400CFI:
That junk yard long block you picked up, any chance you got a casting number on it? I have to go to a junk yard to pick up a long block already so I can at least look out for it. I am planning on cleaning up a decent long block that hopefully has a single plane intake but no carb on it. I am planning on turning it into a glass table (engine being the stand for the table with glass mounting into it where the carb normally would) for near my friend's firepit as a thanks for helping me with the corvette. How do you think those Edelbrock shorty headers compare to ram horn manifolds? I don't want to port my stock intake, but I am excited about the Renegade I got sitting next to the car waiting to be put in. Wanted to display the stock intake in my garage where my peg board is. Probably will get to that next week after my vacation.
I'll take your word on the heads, haven't taken them off yet. Where do they normally crack? Middle exhaust ports? Don't see any there at a glance while they are still on. Will look out for them. Broken off the harness and most of the accessories so far. Fan shroud is off and all of the fluids are out. Found a leak coming from the timing cover. I got new gaskets for it but I am going to get a replacement cover just in case. In regards to the fan, thank you very much for that part number and location, saves me from a bunch of new research I would have to do! I definitely agree about it making no sense. Coolant isn't moving, so why is the fan on! Also, it has 86,000 miles on it. It originally came from Florida where it was apparently raced by the first owner until 1986 (trying to figure out where). During 1986 and a PBA parade it hit a pier (yes, a pier). After that it was fixed (minor damage, mainly front body/bumper repair, no damage to chassis), driven occasionally, and generally loved by the guy until 2005. He was diagnosed with cancer and sold the car to my grandfather in law who moved it to NJ. The original owner sadly died a month later after selling the car. My grandfather in law gifted it to my father in law when he opened up their second major location for their family business. My wife fell in love with the car, then with me (in that order). So everything I do to the car I have to make sure it is still drive-able to her. I plan on getting the original invoice for the car with it's RPOs from GM Media Archive for that $50 fee they charged. Trying to learn more about the history of the car. The invoice would be nice to display with the car at the shows.
Tom400CFI:
That junk yard long block you picked up, any chance you got a casting number on it? I have to go to a junk yard to pick up a long block already so I can at least look out for it. I am planning on cleaning up a decent long block that hopefully has a single plane intake but no carb on it. I am planning on turning it into a glass table (engine being the stand for the table with glass mounting into it where the carb normally would) for near my friend's firepit as a thanks for helping me with the corvette. How do you think those Edelbrock shorty headers compare to ram horn manifolds? I don't want to port my stock intake, but I am excited about the Renegade I got sitting next to the car waiting to be put in. Wanted to display the stock intake in my garage where my peg board is. Probably will get to that next week after my vacation.
Last edited by RustyCFI; 09-17-2016 at 09:14 AM.
09-17-2016, 10:48 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
Looks like the car's blue, can't wait to see more pictures! Mine was converted to carb by the previous owner, said the upper engine was rebuilt and I assume It might have a cam (since the cam cover is after market and it's got a really nice growel in the exhaust) Welcome to the forum! Looks like this will be a great thread 
09-17-2016, 03:02 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
you cam try more than 10 degrees advanced
09-17-2016, 03:26 PM
#10
ex-x-fire:
That's a nice thought. However I need to spend more sweat time with the car due to financial issues (aka, wife wants a pool and fence). However, I agree that long block would be good with a cross-ram intake which would put me in a good spot.
Corvettenorway:
More than 10 degrees advanced on base ignition timing or cam timing? I probably could squeeze in a few more degrees on the cam but it would increase my dynamic compression too much without using octane boosters on pump 93 during hot summers. I think 12 degrees get me to 8.25 dynamic compression or somewhere near there. Not sure if the gains (less than 1-2% more hp/torque?) are worth the potential knocking in the heat. Correct me if I am wrong there. For the ignition timing I was going to start at 10 degrees advanced and play with it to see where the car likes it most.
That's a nice thought. However I need to spend more sweat time with the car due to financial issues (aka, wife wants a pool and fence). However, I agree that long block would be good with a cross-ram intake which would put me in a good spot.
Corvettenorway:
More than 10 degrees advanced on base ignition timing or cam timing? I probably could squeeze in a few more degrees on the cam but it would increase my dynamic compression too much without using octane boosters on pump 93 during hot summers. I think 12 degrees get me to 8.25 dynamic compression or somewhere near there. Not sure if the gains (less than 1-2% more hp/torque?) are worth the potential knocking in the heat. Correct me if I am wrong there. For the ignition timing I was going to start at 10 degrees advanced and play with it to see where the car likes it most.
09-17-2016, 03:38 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
ex-x-fire:
That's a nice thought. However I need to spend more sweat time with the car due to financial issues (aka, wife wants a pool and fence). However, I agree that long block would be good with a cross-ram intake which would put me in a good spot.
Corvettenorway:
More than 10 degrees advanced on base ignition timing or cam timing? I probably could squeeze in a few more degrees on the cam but it would increase my dynamic compression too much without using octane boosters on pump 93 during hot summers. I think 12 degrees get me to 8.25 dynamic compression or somewhere near there. Not sure if the gains (less than 1-2% more hp/torque?) are worth the potential knocking in the heat. Correct me if I am wrong there. For the ignition timing I was going to start at 10 degrees advanced and play with it to see where the car likes it most.
That's a nice thought. However I need to spend more sweat time with the car due to financial issues (aka, wife wants a pool and fence). However, I agree that long block would be good with a cross-ram intake which would put me in a good spot.
Corvettenorway:
More than 10 degrees advanced on base ignition timing or cam timing? I probably could squeeze in a few more degrees on the cam but it would increase my dynamic compression too much without using octane boosters on pump 93 during hot summers. I think 12 degrees get me to 8.25 dynamic compression or somewhere near there. Not sure if the gains (less than 1-2% more hp/torque?) are worth the potential knocking in the heat. Correct me if I am wrong there. For the ignition timing I was going to start at 10 degrees advanced and play with it to see where the car likes it most.
09-17-2016, 03:39 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
why not change the heads to better ?????
09-17-2016, 09:36 PM
#13
Maybe next year I will switch the heads and put them up on the wall next to the original stock intake manifold. In the set up I am building the heads will be the limiting factor. But as the wife said, pool must come first before any more major stuff is planned. If I do the heads I would prob switch over to a stroker kit. But that means I would have to most likely switch out my dana 36 to a dana 44 and build up the 700r4 a bit. Currently, there is a shift kit in the trans.
09-17-2016, 11:54 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Cool car and write up, sounds like you have a decent plan to try an optimize the car without breaking the bank. Best of luck with it and keep us updated.
09-18-2016, 12:13 PM
#15
Race Director
Keep up the good work. 84's rule!
09-18-2016, 02:29 PM
#16
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I don't remember the casing numbers on my 400. I doubt it matters much at the power level I was at (~300 horse or so). I pulled the engine from a '70's 'Burban.
09-19-2016, 11:42 AM
#17
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
09-21-2016, 11:44 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Hot Rod Roy:
I'll take your word on the heads, haven't taken them off yet. Where do they normally crack? Middle exhaust ports? Don't see any there at a glance while they are still on. Will look out for them. Broken off the harness and most of the accessories so far. Fan shroud is off and all of the fluids are out. Found a leak coming from the timing cover. I got new gaskets for it but I am going to get a replacement cover just in case. In regards to the fan, thank you very much for that part number and location, saves me from a bunch of new research I would have to do! I definitely agree about it making no sense. Coolant isn't moving, so why is the fan on! Also, it has 86,000 miles on it. It originally came from Florida where it was apparently raced by the first owner until 1986 (trying to figure out where). During 1986 and a PBA parade it hit a pier (yes, a pier). After that it was fixed (minor damage, mainly front body/bumper repair, no damage to chassis), driven occasionally, and generally loved by the guy until 2005. He was diagnosed with cancer and sold the car to my grandfather in law who moved it to NJ. The original owner sadly died a month later after selling the car. My grandfather in law gifted it to my father in law when he opened up their second major location for their family business. My wife fell in love with the car, then with me (in that order). So everything I do to the car I have to make sure it is still drive-able to her. I plan on getting the original invoice for the car with it's RPOs from GM Media Archive for that $50 fee they charged. Trying to learn more about the history of the car. The invoice would be nice to display with the car at the shows.
Tom400CFI:
That junk yard long block you picked up, any chance you got a casting number on it? I have to go to a junk yard to pick up a long block already so I can at least look out for it. I am planning on cleaning up a decent long block that hopefully has a single plane intake but no carb on it. I am planning on turning it into a glass table (engine being the stand for the table with glass mounting into it where the carb normally would) for near my friend's firepit as a thanks for helping me with the corvette. How do you think those Edelbrock shorty headers compare to ram horn manifolds? I don't want to port my stock intake, but I am excited about the Renegade I got sitting next to the car waiting to be put in. Wanted to display the stock intake in my garage where my peg board is. Probably will get to that next week after my vacation.
I'll take your word on the heads, haven't taken them off yet. Where do they normally crack? Middle exhaust ports? Don't see any there at a glance while they are still on. Will look out for them. Broken off the harness and most of the accessories so far. Fan shroud is off and all of the fluids are out. Found a leak coming from the timing cover. I got new gaskets for it but I am going to get a replacement cover just in case. In regards to the fan, thank you very much for that part number and location, saves me from a bunch of new research I would have to do! I definitely agree about it making no sense. Coolant isn't moving, so why is the fan on! Also, it has 86,000 miles on it. It originally came from Florida where it was apparently raced by the first owner until 1986 (trying to figure out where). During 1986 and a PBA parade it hit a pier (yes, a pier). After that it was fixed (minor damage, mainly front body/bumper repair, no damage to chassis), driven occasionally, and generally loved by the guy until 2005. He was diagnosed with cancer and sold the car to my grandfather in law who moved it to NJ. The original owner sadly died a month later after selling the car. My grandfather in law gifted it to my father in law when he opened up their second major location for their family business. My wife fell in love with the car, then with me (in that order). So everything I do to the car I have to make sure it is still drive-able to her. I plan on getting the original invoice for the car with it's RPOs from GM Media Archive for that $50 fee they charged. Trying to learn more about the history of the car. The invoice would be nice to display with the car at the shows.
Tom400CFI:
That junk yard long block you picked up, any chance you got a casting number on it? I have to go to a junk yard to pick up a long block already so I can at least look out for it. I am planning on cleaning up a decent long block that hopefully has a single plane intake but no carb on it. I am planning on turning it into a glass table (engine being the stand for the table with glass mounting into it where the carb normally would) for near my friend's firepit as a thanks for helping me with the corvette. How do you think those Edelbrock shorty headers compare to ram horn manifolds? I don't want to port my stock intake, but I am excited about the Renegade I got sitting next to the car waiting to be put in. Wanted to display the stock intake in my garage where my peg board is. Probably will get to that next week after my vacation.
Tom400CFI:
That junk yard long block you picked up, any chance you got a casting number on it? I have to go to a junk yard to pick up a long block already so I can at least look out for it. I am planning on cleaning up a decent long block that hopefully has a single plane intake but no carb on it. I am planning on turning it into a glass table (engine being the stand for the table with glass mounting into it where the carb normally would) for near my friend's firepit as a thanks for helping me with the corvette. How do you think those Edelbrock shorty headers compare to ram horn manifolds? I don't want to port my stock intake, but I am excited about the Renegade I got sitting next to the car waiting to be put in. Wanted to display the stock intake in my garage where my peg board is. Probably will get to that next week after my vacation.
That junk yard long block you picked up, any chance you got a casting number on it? I have to go to a junk yard to pick up a long block already so I can at least look out for it. I am planning on cleaning up a decent long block that hopefully has a single plane intake but no carb on it. I am planning on turning it into a glass table (engine being the stand for the table with glass mounting into it where the carb normally would) for near my friend's firepit as a thanks for helping me with the corvette. How do you think those Edelbrock shorty headers compare to ram horn manifolds? I don't want to port my stock intake, but I am excited about the Renegade I got sitting next to the car waiting to be put in. Wanted to display the stock intake in my garage where my peg board is. Probably will get to that next week after my vacation.
09-22-2016, 10:11 AM
#20
Will do Buccaneer. Renegade goes in tomorrow afternoon after I am done golfing with some clients. From your signature, are you an owner of DCS? My Renegade has the DCS branding on it =)
For people following this and wondering how much was spent on parts, here is the list:
Engine oil cooler = FLX-3951 = $100
Transmission oil cooler = FLX-4116 = $50
Muffler = MPE-12158 = $210
Narrow X-pipe = 555-30428 = $100
Other piping, elbows, hangers = $170
Timing chain cover = SUM-G6300W = $33
Dayco belt = $32
Camshaft = 12-235-2 = $120
Lifters = 812-16 = $80
Timing chain = 249-3200 = $42
180F T-stat and cam break in oil = $30
Head bolt set, valve cover tabs, shims, misc = $70
Renegade intake manifold = $550
Full gasket kit = $150
Fluids, filters = $200 (approx)
Secondary gasket kit and seals (back ups in case I screw something up) = $100
Roughly $1700 or so, give or take a few stuff here and there for other small stuff not listed here that totals under $100. Push rod length will be double checked to make sure it's good.
Will post more photos tomorrow during renegade install and status of current exhaust piping that will be replaced.
For people following this and wondering how much was spent on parts, here is the list:
Engine oil cooler = FLX-3951 = $100
Transmission oil cooler = FLX-4116 = $50
Muffler = MPE-12158 = $210
Narrow X-pipe = 555-30428 = $100
Other piping, elbows, hangers = $170
Timing chain cover = SUM-G6300W = $33
Dayco belt = $32
Camshaft = 12-235-2 = $120
Lifters = 812-16 = $80
Timing chain = 249-3200 = $42
180F T-stat and cam break in oil = $30
Head bolt set, valve cover tabs, shims, misc = $70
Renegade intake manifold = $550
Full gasket kit = $150
Fluids, filters = $200 (approx)
Secondary gasket kit and seals (back ups in case I screw something up) = $100
Roughly $1700 or so, give or take a few stuff here and there for other small stuff not listed here that totals under $100. Push rod length will be double checked to make sure it's good.
Will post more photos tomorrow during renegade install and status of current exhaust piping that will be replaced.