Silver85

I plan on taking a bunch of pictures when I get the wheels on and posting them. I'll shoot a couple of the interior and post them as well so we can move this discussion. Gotta get the tranny shift shaft seal replaced, filter changed and pan regasketed first.

DMITTZ

Hi VT,

I did actually mention the wire loom covers in post #209 but I know how hard it can sometimes be to find specific posts in a long thread like this, so no worries.

Here's what I wrote in post #209:

I got the Wire loom covers from our local Mopac, they are World Performance brand. They are nice because they don't seem to get dusty like regular plastic wire loom covers. They won't melt if just in contact with the engine etc... but they might if they were in contact with the headers or exhaust pipes.

For High heat applications I use an insulated black colored sleeve it looks similar to the wire loom but is great for high heat situations it says good to 2000F (I think) I put it over the EGR pipe and few other places and it works well.
I got it from Mopac as well and I think it is a World performance brand also.


In regards to the link you asked about, I didn't buy that particular product but it does look similar to what I used. I did end up needing quite a few different diameters to do the harness though. Also as I mentioned above you'll want to use a high heat sleeve for things like the EGR tube etc...

Hope that helps.

DMITTZ

Hi everyone,

Sorry its been a few days without an update. It looks like the ebay seller of my Hylomar Blue sealant finally shipped it, so hopefully it won't take to long to arrive. I'm also still waiting for my Super ram lid to be built. So for now I can't finish the super ram install. So I started thinking about a good solution for the front anti-roll bar endlinks.

I had a small thread over in the tech section discussing my idea for the bar/endlinks. The advise I was given was that upgrading to high dollar Triple or quad adjustable shocks would give me the largest gains, but I don't want to spend thousands on shocks so I'm going to just tackle the sway bar/endlinks for now.

My plan is to convert my car to use an adjustable 3-piece splined sway bar with custom heim-joint endlinks.

I am going to attach the endlink to the control arm where my leaf spring used to rest on the lower control arm.

No sway bar kit like this exists for c4 Corvette that I know of. So I will have to either make the parts or use universal parts.

I also did a quick cleaning of the suspension before I started...




Endlinks:

I had 4x 1/2in teflon lined QA1 rod ends (2RH, 2LH) sitting around from some long forgotten project so I decided to use them for the endlinks.






I spent $4 and bought 2 feet of thick walled steel pipe.






Should be pretty strong!

Next I did a few measurements and then cut 2x 3in long pieces of pipe, with my band saw.






I also picked up some 1/2 -20 Jam nuts (grade 8), need to find a couple LH thread ones still...




Here's how the endlink will work...




I will need to tap RH threads on one side and LH threads on the other side.

Before I could tap the threads I needed to drill the pipe out to the correct I.D, so a quick trip to my drill press was required.




Next step was to Tap the threads, I just did the RH side since I can't get a LH tap until tuesday.








Rod end fits perfect!



I also used my grinder to put a couple flat 'slots' on the pipe so I can be tightened with a 17mm wrench.






Next up is the endlink to control arm bracket.

I looked like the braket for the factory rear endlink are made of 1/8 steel... Just so happened I had some 1/8 steel laying around my workshop = free.

So I took a few measurements and cut two pieces of steel to size in my bandsaw.




I don't do much metal bending but I do have a cheap little metal brake so I figured I would give it a try... Had to use just about every C-clamp in the workshop...but It actually worked!




Starting to look like a bracket...







Next I marked where wanted all the bolt holes and then went back to my drill press with the brackets...








Time for a mock-up:




I will trim the top of the bracket where I marked it...



And that's as far as I got for today.

More Updates to come...

Mike Holmen

Hey buddy, curious what steel did you used for the bracket?

I don't have a brake, I want one but my garage is tiny. I have too many engines in my garage to have space for tools. I counted the other day, I have six engine laying on the floor. Two 5.9L cummins 12v, two 6.7L cummins, LLY duramax and a SBC.

Two welder and a plasma torch. I guess that I need to downsize or buy a bigger garage.

VikingTrad3r

Time to get focussed Mike!

DMITTZ

I'll have to check what the steel was, I had a info tag on it but I mainly used it because I had it sitting around.

I know what you mean, at one time I have 4 extra engines sitting around, I sold 3 so now I just have one sbc in my storage room.

It Never seems like there is enough room in the workshop for my liking. I am very lucky though I live in a subdivision my house is fine but I just have a 21x23 double garage, which is nice but too small since the wife and I park our DD's in there. My Corvette stays in the Workshop at my parents place they have an acreage 10min away from me and the workshop I share with my dad is 40x40, but we do have a lot of tools and other stuff in there! Would love to build a 60x80 shop one day, but I have to buy myself more land first (no room for any shop on my lot).

DMITTZ

By the way Mike Holmen, my metal brake was just $39.99 at princess auto and just bolts to a bench or in my case a rolling table, so it doesn't take up much space. Bending this 1/8in steel was really pushing its limits though!

Mike Holmen

Yes, time to get to work and finish some of my projects. My work and the 85 vette is just taking way to much of my time up

Waiting for spring to get rid of the duramax, SBC and the 6.7L's

-S400 turbos, dana 60/70/80 front/rear axles, dodge cabs and doors. I might be an auto hoarder Drives my wife crazy.

DMITTZ

It can be hard not to hold onto good/rare parts. I made a decision to sell most of my extra parts last year to free up space. The $$$ I got for them was nice as was having the extra space, but I now find that I need some of the stuff I sold so I kind of regret selling a lot of my parts now...

Mike Holmen

Hah, so true. I'm going to have to visit princess auto to buy some hoses for my rack and to steering pump. Gonna take a hard look at one of those brakes.

Yesterday I found out that my alternator bracket was preventing my hood from closing for my LQ9 swap. Here I thought I was just about done.

I had a pile of rod end links, we used them for making control arms on trucks. Gave them away.

VikingTrad3r

Dmittz your post on your sway bar links and custom fabricating.....that is some talent u have right there.

and your A arms wow. not in kansas anymore.

you were on that recent thread where another member figured a way out to put in coilovers as cheap as possible using stock a arms and one custom fabbed piece right? what did you think about that method compared to yours?

vette196

I might have missed it but how does your system sound?

Are those mufflers like the stock ones?

Build looks great

DMITTZ

Thank you VT, I haven't done much fabrication before but I figured it would be a good opportunity to learn some new skills.

I don't recall the thread you are referring to, but my memory could be failing me.

My upper control arms are made by SPC, they aren't required to run coilover though, they just give me the ability to get better suspension geometry. My coilovers are Vansteel's QA1 single adjustable, they are a bolt on part. I have heard of people making there own QA1 coilovers out of the QA1 catalog for a little less than buying the Vansteel ones like I did. Then again having Vansteel tech support for advise and help if anything wasn't working is nice.

My sway bar idea will only work because I have coilovers since I am mounting the endlink where the leaf spring used to rest on the lower control arm. I couldn't figure out a satisfactory design that could use the stock control arm endlink mounting point, it might be possible on the pre 88' suspension cars though as the endlink mounts differently than the 88-96 cars.

DMITTZ

Thank You vette196, I really like the sound of the new exhaust. It has a nice rumble at idle and growls when I get on It but it is very quiet at highway cruising RPM's or at low throttle driving.

Mufflers are just Corvette Central's 'no drone' dual outlet mufflers (for 91' vette I think), My X-pipe is from summit and the rest of the exhaust is a true dual 2.5in pipe bent and installed by my good friend at the shop he works at.

vette196

Thats good to hear...no pun intended

I am going in a similar direction. I was set on the Corsa $1400+ system until I realized I could do a Lloyd Ellliott LE1 package and port the intake for about the same money.

The opti/plugs & wires need to be changed(hoping just cap/rotor), so why not pull the intake & heads and send them to LLoyd

back to my exhaust...I was able to pick up a Corsa resonator delete pipe in the FS section. It has an H-pipe, but that X-pipe looks good(do they accomplish the same or is the X-pipe better?). My stock muffler are in good shape, so I want to hear the sounds when its all back together. If I have the dreaded drone, those "no drone" mufflers look good

DMITTZ

Sounds like your car will be pretty awesome with all intake and head work!

To answer your question, in short yes, X and H pipes do basically the same thing. But they do it in a different fashion.

The purpose of an exhaust 'crossover' is to equalize the pressure waves in the two exhaust pipes which creates a more even and efficient flow of exhaust gases.

I'm not an expert but from what I hear an H-pipe is slightly more efficient at lower rpm's and will result in slightly more low-end torque than a X-pipe and will have a more traditional 'lumpy' american v-8 sound. An X-pipe is slightly more efficient at higher RPM's and will make slightly more higher end HP 3500rpm+ and have a slightly more 'european/exotic' car sound.

So which one you choose is really a personal taste thing as they work in a similar manner but give slightly different results.

BTW, I you ever want to switch to an X-pipe mine was about $34 on Summit racing it is a narrow 2.5in version and fits very nicely I my system.

DMITTZ

Hi guys,

I have a small update for you. I'm not feeling so great today but I did go out my workshop for about and hour and got the brackets finished up.

I took an air cutoff saw (zip disk) and trimmed the corners of the brackets to give the rod-end a better range of motion.




To answer MIke Holmen's question about the 1/8in steel I made the brackets out of, I took a picture of the label on the piece of steel:




Just some generic USA made flat steel, nothing special.

I'm wondering if I should 'box' the open ends of the brackets for added strength. wouldn't be hard I just have to cut a few small pieces and weld them on the ends.
Do you guys think that's necessary or just overkill?


More Updates to come...

Dt86

I think a little extra strength never hurts. Hope you feel better soon.

Mike Holmen

Your brackets looks stronger than my factory units. My stock pieces look pretty flimsy compared to your new units. I would do the boxing of the new supports, its not going to hurt.

I am curious on how long your new tubing going to be with the rod end links? You are planning on using the factory locations to fasten everything together? Neato project. Hopefully you get well soon.

I was to lazy this weekend to do anything myself.

DMITTZ

Thanks Mike Holmen,

To answer your question, I'm not going to use the factory mounting location, instead the bracket will be mounted just behind the coilover where the leaf spring used to rest on the lower control arm. With the design of the stock mounting point on my 88' it seemed hard/impossible to make a bracket that could reuse the stock mount without moving around. (It would be easier on a pre-88' suspension I think.) If I wanted I could easily mount the endlink to my stock anti-roll bar, but at the moment I'm thinking it won't cost much and will be cool to convert to using a 3-piece splined anti-roll bar, that way I can easily swap bars for cheap. I may also make the sway bar arm adjustable too, need to research that more though.

The piece of metal pipe that the rod ends thread into is 3inches long, with the rod ends It should be adjustable from 6 to 8 inches long. Some quick measurements indicated my planned anti-roll bar ends should need approximately 7in long endlinks.

I've not seen anyone with C4 that is running 3-piece splined anti-roll bar before so I figured if the C5 & C6 guys can buy them why not build my own kit for my C4.