Hall1836

Have to apologize to matthewmiller, your link says the wrenches are available, when I keyed on it before there was a notation that they were not available???? Two days ago those wrenches were not in the store, will check when they have their sale you cant beat the price. By the way the SEARS by me had no offset wrenches metric or SAE.

Silver96ce

22mm offset box wrenches are available all over the place.
Here's a link to Ebay with listings for full sets with that wrench and also singles.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...rench&_sacat=0

Sears also has them and will ship to store for free pickup.

MatthewMiller

I got some recently when I had to use them for spark plugs with my long-tube headers. I want to say I got them either at Napa or Autozone.

billschroeder5842

Is this something that you can do in a driveway, laying on your back with the car jacked up? Or, are you pretty much relegated to getting a lift (and/or paying) at a shop?

Koshore

In a driveway is fine

gdl2165

And the verdict is in on the VW wrench, it does not work. They market it as a 22mm wrench but in reality it's just a bit smaller, it doesn't fit. I went to Harbor Freight and picked up a set of the offset metric box wrenches for $13.78 after the 20% discount coupon. The 22mm wrench from that set worked like a charm.

I tried cleaning and rotating the ball on the stock switch, no change so it looks like a new switch is in my future.

I have a new problem now though, I put it all back together and now have no clutch pedal. I pulled the slave back down to make sure I got the rod centered on the clutch fork, which I did. Not sure what I may have done here, time for some research.

billschroeder5842

I ended up taking mine to my local repair guys who I know. They had the car up on a lift and removed with a 7/8 is less than 5 minutes and kept the slave in place.

We cleaned, reinstalled and had B/U light for a second.... then no more.

I ordered a new switch and will try again later this week.

Klondike

My switch went intermittent about 4 years back and I saw the problem with access also. I wasn't liking the way it shifted either, with the BMW 60wt oil that was in there either, so while I was under there I switched to the AmsOil Manual Synchromesh Transmission 5W-30 Oil. Before I had a chance to find a wrench and go back under there, the switch started working again. Apparently the AmsOil cleaned the goo out of the switch ball and it's worked ever since. (and I like the way it shifts now too)

gdl2165

I agree with the Amsoil, I'm running that in mine and love the way it shifts. I was expecting to find some crud on the ball of the switch but it looked like new when I pulled it out. I cleaned the ball end anyway with some MAF spray cleaner I had handy and spun the ball several times to make sure it was moving freely, which it was both before and after cleaning. Still battling the clutch pedal problem now, I'm going to start a thread in the tech forum to see if anyone has any ideas on that.

Klondike

Your clutch problem might be air in the master cylinder. When you had the slave out, its piston may have moved out farther than it usually would have traveled and let the fluid go down far enough in the master to let air in the line. When you put it back together, maybe an air bubble stayed in the line.

gdl2165

Now that's the most logical scenario I've heard yet on what may have happened. I've seen Youtube videos of people using a Mityvac pump stuck into the orifice on the master cylinder to suck the air out, I think maybe I'll try that. I presume that would bleed any air out of the master.

gdl2165

I think Klondike hit the nail on the head with my problem. Always make sure the master cylinder is full before removing the slave. I have a new problem now though, it looks like when I pulled the slave it let the piston move further than normal and messed up the seals. I now have a leak so I'm going to have to replace it. I'd get it rebuilt but the powertorquesystems website is no longer working so I'm afraid they went out of business.

MatthewMiller

I bet he's just down for a bit. But fwiw, I've had good luck with the NAPA brand replacement so far. It's cheap enough that you can get it and install it now, and rebuild your OE one for later.

gdl2165

Hopefully he'll come back because I really wanted to get it rebuilt. i called NAPA and they tell me they don't even stock it in their warehouse now and that it's a special order. I managed to find one at O'Reilly's so I just picked that up and will install it for now. Came with a lifetime warranty so I may just stick with it let them replace it if/when it fails. Interestingly, it's a Power Torque brand, I don't know if it's from the same Power Torque Systems that did the rebuilding or not but if not it's an interesting coincidence.

MatthewMiller

Hmmm, I just bought one in October. Must be a regional thing.

I strongly doubt it. He would make them in ways that are better but cost a lot more, I'm sure.

gdl2165

Probably on the first point and definitely not on the second point. I hadn't looked closely before I posted that, it's marked all over Made in Taiwan. Turns out Power Torque is just one of those cheapo brands that O'Reilly's carries. Oh well, hopefully it'll last me awhile.

MatthewMiller

I don't know if rebuild kits are still available, but your OE unit is probably a good candidate. If the only reason it started leaking is due to overextension of the piston, then the bore should still be in good shape. Maybe you can rebuild it yourself?

gdl2165

In my searching I haven't found anyone selling a rebuild kit. I have another thread going in the tech section on this issue and was just provided with a phone number for Jim at Power Torque, I'm going to be giving him a call to see about getting it rebuilt. In the meantime though, the one I picked up at O'Reilly's seems to be working fine.