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Any starter removal tips? '94 LT1 A4

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Old 03-17-2017, 07:37 PM   #1
JD Shredds
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Default Any starter removal tips? '94 LT1 A4

Gonna be pulling the starter since I've had an intermittent no-start and suspect the solenoid contacts (which I'm replacing along with plunger).

Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:47 PM   #2
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It's very easy. Get it up on jack stands, get under it, super easy to get to and remove.

FWIW, my intermittent start issues was the trigger wire oxidizing and needing replaced.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:54 PM   #3
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book says remove exhaust,not needed with a good set of flex wrenches, also look into the compact starters...just as mush power and easier.
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:58 PM   #4
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I havnt changed a starter since 70S but it I think it would be a good idea to disconnect the positive battery cable from battery.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD Shredds View Post
Gonna be pulling the starter since I've had an intermittenqt no-start and suspect the solenoid contacts (which I'm replacing along with plunger).

Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
I rebuilt my starter a few months ago. I recall removing the knock sensor shield to get better access to the starter.
Not a difficult job.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:38 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nutsy View Post
I havnt changed a starter since 70S but it I think it would be a good idea to disconnect the positive battery cable from battery.
Personally, nothing wrong with disconnecting the positive cable, but I'd disconnect the negative first. Less chance of arcing or shorting something out by accident. My opinion.
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Old 03-21-2017, 03:34 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by corvette95 View Post
also look into the compact starters...
Doesn't the 94 already have a Denso gear reduction "compact starter"? I know my 88 had one. Maybe they went to the planetary-reduction Delco "250" by 94?


Does anyone know the hierarchy of what starters were used in push-rod engine C4?
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Old 03-21-2017, 09:25 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs View Post
Doesn't the 94 already have a Denso gear reduction "compact starter"? I know my 88 had one. Maybe they went to the planetary-reduction Delco "250" by 94?


Does anyone know the hierarchy of what starters were used in push-rod engine C4?
10MT and then 'denso The PG250 never in a C4

Last edited by WVZR-1; 03-21-2017 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:17 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD Shredds View Post
Gonna be pulling the starter since I've had an intermittent no-start and suspect the solenoid contacts (which I'm replacing along with plunger).

Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
I replaced the plunger and contacts on my 94 a few years ago. FROM MEMORY------ Disconnect the battery cables because the big red wire to the starter is always hot. The starter comes off kinda easy because only 2 bolts(maybe 3?) hold it on. The knock sensor is in the way and I did not want to mess with it . I may have loosened the wire to it or something, but i did not remove it . If your very careful you can maneuver the starter around it, but when you remove the last bolt beware that the starter is heavy. When you put the new plunger and 2 big contacts back in, adjust the 2 big contacts to touch the plunger at THE SAME TIME. This is not too difficult a job and you feel good when completed. The starter is a good one made by Denso so keep it. I bought the solenoid repair kit for about $12.00 on Amazon. The kit is ND-34SOL if want to see what the parts look like. The kit has 2 extra contacts that may or may not fit. Good luck. Get back to me if any questions.
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Old 03-22-2017, 11:27 AM   #10
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Personally, nothing wrong with disconnecting the positive cable, but I'd disconnect the negative first. Less chance of arcing or shorting something out by accident. My opinion.
always disconnects negative first
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Old 03-22-2017, 04:55 PM   #11
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Hey guys, did the job yesterday before reading any of this and it worked like a charm. Before it was taking 3-6 key turns before it would fire up (usually just clicking, occasional whine), now it fires up every time on the first crank. Just replaced the contacts and plunger (these were in rough shape), as well as cleaned it up (looks like-new now).

Job didn't need anything other than a few different ratchets and extensions.

My experience was pretty simple and went like this:
-Disconnect negative battery terminal
-Jack up vehicle on stands
-Disconnect both pos and neg terminals on the starter (two different sized nuts, both metric)
-Remove knock sensor shield to make wiggle room (two nuts)
-Using extensions, loosen starter-to-block bolts (15mm by my recollection). Make sure to keep a hand under the starter as its heavier than it looks.
-Slide the starter out with a little maneuvering.

Could be different on other MY's, but this was pretty straightforward. The starter to block bolts took some thumping to come loose with my 1/2" ratchet. No need to remove the knock sensor electrical connector as the shield removal made enough room.

Always satisfying when a job goes like this, and for a mere $14.
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Old 03-29-2017, 02:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD Shredds View Post
Hey guys, did the job yesterday before reading any of this and it worked like a charm. Before it was taking 3-6 key turns before it would fire up (usually just clicking, occasional whine), now it fires up every time on the first crank. Just replaced the contacts and plunger (these were in rough shape), as well as cleaned it up (looks like-new now).

Job didn't need anything other than a few different ratchets and extensions.

My experience was pretty simple and went like this:
-Disconnect negative battery terminal
-Jack up vehicle on stands
-Disconnect both pos and neg terminals on the starter (two different sized nuts, both metric)
-Remove knock sensor shield to make wiggle room (two nuts)
-Using extensions, loosen starter-to-block bolts (15mm by my recollection). Make sure to keep a hand under the starter as its heavier than it looks.
-Slide the starter out with a little maneuvering.

Could be different on other MY's, but this was pretty straightforward. The starter to block bolts took some thumping to come loose with my 1/2" ratchet. No need to remove the knock sensor electrical connector as the shield removal made enough room.

Always satisfying when a job goes like this, and for a mere $14.
good timing for this post.....my starter went out last weekend and I hope to begin taking it out this weekend.....looks like your '94 is Admiral Blue? I have a '94 Admiral Blue as well......lot of fun.
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