Any starter removal tips? '94 LT1 A4
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Any starter removal tips? '94 LT1 A4
Gonna be pulling the starter since I've had an intermittent no-start and suspect the solenoid contacts (which I'm replacing along with plunger).
Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
#2
Race Director
It's very easy. Get it up on jack stands, get under it, super easy to get to and remove.
FWIW, my intermittent start issues was the trigger wire oxidizing and needing replaced.
FWIW, my intermittent start issues was the trigger wire oxidizing and needing replaced.
#4
Melting Slicks
I havnt changed a starter since 70S but it I think it would be a good idea to disconnect the positive battery cable from battery.
#5
Instructor
Gonna be pulling the starter since I've had an intermittenqt no-start and suspect the solenoid contacts (which I'm replacing along with plunger).
Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
Not a difficult job.
#6
Safety Car
Personally, nothing wrong with disconnecting the positive cable, but I'd disconnect the negative first. Less chance of arcing or shorting something out by accident. My opinion.
#7
10MT and then 'denso The PG250 never in a C4
Last edited by WVZR-1; 03-21-2017 at 08:28 PM.
#8
Pro
starter
Gonna be pulling the starter since I've had an intermittent no-start and suspect the solenoid contacts (which I'm replacing along with plunger).
Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
Got any tips for getting it out of there without breaking anything? Not hard to get to from beneath, just not sure exactly what I should be disconnecting and maneuvering, and what could make the job easier.
#9
Pro
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hey guys, did the job yesterday before reading any of this and it worked like a charm. Before it was taking 3-6 key turns before it would fire up (usually just clicking, occasional whine), now it fires up every time on the first crank. Just replaced the contacts and plunger (these were in rough shape), as well as cleaned it up (looks like-new now).
Job didn't need anything other than a few different ratchets and extensions.
My experience was pretty simple and went like this:
-Disconnect negative battery terminal
-Jack up vehicle on stands
-Disconnect both pos and neg terminals on the starter (two different sized nuts, both metric)
-Remove knock sensor shield to make wiggle room (two nuts)
-Using extensions, loosen starter-to-block bolts (15mm by my recollection). Make sure to keep a hand under the starter as its heavier than it looks.
-Slide the starter out with a little maneuvering.
Could be different on other MY's, but this was pretty straightforward. The starter to block bolts took some thumping to come loose with my 1/2" ratchet. No need to remove the knock sensor electrical connector as the shield removal made enough room.
Always satisfying when a job goes like this, and for a mere $14.
Job didn't need anything other than a few different ratchets and extensions.
My experience was pretty simple and went like this:
-Disconnect negative battery terminal
-Jack up vehicle on stands
-Disconnect both pos and neg terminals on the starter (two different sized nuts, both metric)
-Remove knock sensor shield to make wiggle room (two nuts)
-Using extensions, loosen starter-to-block bolts (15mm by my recollection). Make sure to keep a hand under the starter as its heavier than it looks.
-Slide the starter out with a little maneuvering.
Could be different on other MY's, but this was pretty straightforward. The starter to block bolts took some thumping to come loose with my 1/2" ratchet. No need to remove the knock sensor electrical connector as the shield removal made enough room.
Always satisfying when a job goes like this, and for a mere $14.
#11
Instructor
Hey guys, did the job yesterday before reading any of this and it worked like a charm. Before it was taking 3-6 key turns before it would fire up (usually just clicking, occasional whine), now it fires up every time on the first crank. Just replaced the contacts and plunger (these were in rough shape), as well as cleaned it up (looks like-new now).
Job didn't need anything other than a few different ratchets and extensions.
My experience was pretty simple and went like this:
-Disconnect negative battery terminal
-Jack up vehicle on stands
-Disconnect both pos and neg terminals on the starter (two different sized nuts, both metric)
-Remove knock sensor shield to make wiggle room (two nuts)
-Using extensions, loosen starter-to-block bolts (15mm by my recollection). Make sure to keep a hand under the starter as its heavier than it looks.
-Slide the starter out with a little maneuvering.
Could be different on other MY's, but this was pretty straightforward. The starter to block bolts took some thumping to come loose with my 1/2" ratchet. No need to remove the knock sensor electrical connector as the shield removal made enough room.
Always satisfying when a job goes like this, and for a mere $14.
Job didn't need anything other than a few different ratchets and extensions.
My experience was pretty simple and went like this:
-Disconnect negative battery terminal
-Jack up vehicle on stands
-Disconnect both pos and neg terminals on the starter (two different sized nuts, both metric)
-Remove knock sensor shield to make wiggle room (two nuts)
-Using extensions, loosen starter-to-block bolts (15mm by my recollection). Make sure to keep a hand under the starter as its heavier than it looks.
-Slide the starter out with a little maneuvering.
Could be different on other MY's, but this was pretty straightforward. The starter to block bolts took some thumping to come loose with my 1/2" ratchet. No need to remove the knock sensor electrical connector as the shield removal made enough room.
Always satisfying when a job goes like this, and for a mere $14.