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Hello all. I have decided that paying the Chevy dealer $1500 to replace the rears is rediculous! I will learn how and save $$. I will be purchasing from Rock Auto $50 each hub range.
I am looking for input on which hubs are "stay away" from and "these have worked great so far". Also any info that will make my learning experience more expeditious I would appreciate. And last and most important...what the heck is the "correct" torque setting when tightening the wheel hub nut? I have read my manual and watched the you tube videos and I am hearing/reading 164 ft/lbs up to 200 ft/lbs is the newly updated recommendation. TIA!!
There are some excellent hubs with prices to match. I had a questionable one and found some Centric ones for a decent price. I normally would lean towards Moogs or comparable but I've used Centric parts on my truck for several years and not had a problem with any of their products.
Here's a good article on hub replacements: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562
I've also read the torque value in the FSM is 'short' of what's required and it's been upped. I torqued the new hub to about 190 'lb and so far so good.
While in there, go ahead and replace the Teflon washer right away. Also check the u-joints and redo them right away if there's the slightest feeling of other than smooth operation or any noise.
Hope that helps. Good luck and keep us posted of your progress.
What do you or anyone else think the factory torqued them to? They have been ok for all these years and miles? Maybe the original spec isn't all that bad after all. I'd stay around 170 as over torturing will cause other problems. YMMV
I wish there was a good choice for bearings having both good quality and a good price. However, with some of the expensive ones I have had problems and some of the cheapest ones have been fine. I think it is hit or miss as to what quality you get with any of them. That being said, I think Timkin probably has the best chance of being a good quality. However since it is only an afternoon to do both sides, I have been going with the cheapest I could find. I have had good luck with Precision, National, and a couple other brands. I got them on Rock Auto close outs, Amazon, and Ebay for between $25 to $35. Both sets of Precision were actually National inside the box and made in USA.
The teflon coated washer is GM # 14076924 and a few years ago the last ones I bought were a list price of about $8.
I also understand that the torque value has been changed, however the original spec was used for a lot of cars for a lot of miles. I have mostly used the 164 ftlb spec with good results, but I don't think it would hurt to go a little more. I have never gone to the new spec.
The only thing I have had an issue with was getting the torx bolts to break loose. Some of them are really stuck and I was worried about breaking the tool or stripping the bolt head or twisting off the bolt. On one car I was about to try something different like taking the whole assembly off so I could get to a machine shop, but decided to just pull harder and see what breaks. It worked and the torx bolt broke free. I guess the moral of the story is that you should make sure you have a good torx bit and then don't be afraid to pull hard.
I used Timken rear bearings. No complaints so far ~3yrs but not many miles. As others have mentioned, now is also the time to replace teflon washers and check/replace the u-joints. If you do replace them keep in mind the corvette half shafts are aluminum and you cannot hammer u joints out as you might with a steel halfshaft. A hydraulic press makes easy work of it but it is also doable with a large bench vice and some appropriately sized sockets. While you are in there it is also easy to replace the sway bar end link bushings and the spring bolt bushings, if they are deteriorated.
If you look at that thread I posted, in it you pull the axel and stub out first. Take the rotor and caliper off first and hang up the caliper. Crack the spindle nut loose first, work the u-joint straps on the pumpkin next. You need a couple of long extensions and something like a 8mm or 10mm socket IIRC (you'll likely want both normal and deep drive) and unbolt them from the top of the axel on the differential for easy access (rotate the hub to get the lower one on top to do that one). Once loose or off, pull the bottom of the camber rod off the knuckle and you can pull the knuckle out a little and drop the inner end of the half shaft. Pull the spindle nut and slide it out as an assembly. Once that's out you have very easy access to the 3 torx bolts holding the hub assembly on. You also have easy access to the u-joints, Teflon washer etc also with the half shaft out of the car in addition to those torx bolts.
Here's a big suggestion: get some scrap carpeting. You'd be surprised how easy it is to drop one of the bolts for the u-joint strap on the differential side and how far those suckers skitter around on bare concrete DAMHIK! I also used a paint stick and marked everything as far as orientation before I pulled it apart. I don't know if the half shafts are balanced as an assembly or not but that way I could insure it went back together as it was originally assembled. In that thread posted IIRC I put a picture of a tool I made for removing and assembling u-joints using a hydraulic press. Cheap and easy and worked great.
As far as the torx goes, IIRC it was a 55. I picked up a set of their 1/2" drive impact ones from HF and they worked just fine for the back. I don't know if they're long enough to do the front hubs, I suspect they may be a little short but didn't try them to confirm.
These are the parts I used to do mine last week. I trust Moog to be good quality parts, and the price I got was cheaper than what is shown. My only disappointment in the moog hub was that it did not have tapered wheel studs..... The job is not too difficult, but doing it on the ground does add to level of difficulty. I am pretty good wrencher, but would have much preferred a lift to do this......Maybe that's because I am getting old....
The 513013 and 513020 are the two part numbers I see for the rear hub bearings. If you look at the following link it shows the differences in specifications. They are minimal with some nominal diameters 0.001" different. Either one can be used.
Also note that the Dorman 615-096.1 is a spindle bearing nut washer and not the teflon coated washer that many choose to replace. The Dorman is a washer that goes under the spindle nut, while the teflon washer is between the spindle and the hub. See picture below.
I'm new to Corvette's but know a little bit about bearings. They might be a little more expensive, but Timken bearings are the best out there when dealing with tapered bearings. If you are going to keep the car and want it trouble free I would spend the extra $. Everything from the engineering to the steel used to the manufacturing is tops in class.
Also, there is a 3D barcode on the packaging that will bring up a step by step installation video (with torq specs) right on your phone.
Spindle nuts were extremely loose. I barely had to lean into the ratchet before I was doing by hand. I shot T55 bolts with PB blaster but they seemed to be a lot easier to remove from both sides than I expected. Upon hub removal one fell apart into multiple piece. The Teflon washers on each side were missing...yes I am sure. Now I am pondering changing u joint..ugh!
I strongly agree that getting the car higher on the stands helps.
Thx to all this far for your help!
Now it's off to parts store for brake pads and to have rotors turned, Harbor Freight to possibly buy air compressor and impact gun, and calling Rock Auto for hub.
Yes I am very glad I did it myself! Considering I need rear tires and other parts it was a good move! Plus I was talking with my brother and he said his 95 was making same noise so he jacked his up and found play when he shook the tire. So I will be able to help him when time comes.
So I am wondering when reinstalling the torx bolts should I use anti seize or thread lock.
Thx QC
I would use anti-seize and get them good and tight, you may have to do this job again someday. I use a small amount of anti-seize on almost everything as I like things to come apart without breaking any bolts or fittings, just get them tight on assembly. I have never had any fasteners come loose on there own except for some torque converter bolts on my drag car, that's the only place I use blue loctite.
Ya I was thinking anti seize would be better. One member said he uses the blue on the caliper mounting bolts.
The day after crawling under the car feeling a little sore after battling the confined wrenching area. Had to invest in air compressor to expedite the install. Harbor Freight had a good deal. Waiting for Rock Auto delivery. In the meantime I will have the rotors turned and replace brake pads...maybe paint calipers!
Thx for info have a good one!
05-24-2017, 05:12 PM
?? about...C4 rear hub replacement
Dorman - AutogradeSpindle Nut Washer 
MOOG Hub AssembliesFront Wheel Hub Assembly 
