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Same idea as metal cables, but I used large plastic cable ties. Probably not as strong, but adequate, cheaper, won't damage paint and will last in most climates. Agree too clean out old grease from latches and replace with new. And grease original release cable.
I'll take that as a NO on the tool you can't figure out how to use and can't give away?
With this response, it shows you are not only an expert in the use of this tool (in your opinion) it shows you are an expert on being a "tool" also! Congrats!
With this response, it shows you are not only an expert in the use of this tool (in your opinion) it shows you are an expert on being a "tool" also! Congrats!
Name calling? Nice. You should hurry back to the playground little man. You need a sandbox break.
Tell me the story again about how YOU can't use the tool without scratching your paint, therefor no one else can.
About 2 weeks ago my driver side latch wouldn't release. I thought the cable had broke but in the end it was just that the plastic piece the cable goes in jumped out of the notch. I put it back like its supposed to be and all is well again.
I made the tool with a 24" piece of 3/16 steel rod. I bent it in my vise. One end I bent 1" down measured back 18" and bent the remaining length up. I measured from the 1" bend back 13" and marked the rod with a sharpie. This was all per the instructions I read on line.
I opened the driver door, inserted the rod under the hood so that the black mark lined up with the end of the windshield molding and had the hood opened in less than a minute.
I do plan on making the emergency release cables in the future. For now the tool I made rides behind the driver seat.
Last edited by 94corvetteC4; 07-04-2017 at 10:13 AM.
A good compromise might be to make one of the rods mentioned and then give it a coat of PlatiDip or cover with some thin walled tubing. That would prevent scratches if that is a concern. Just a thought.
A good compromise might be to make one of the rods mentioned and then give it a coat of PlatiDip or cover with some thin walled tubing. That would prevent scratches if that is a concern. Just a thought.
That's a great idea! That would eliminate the possibilty of it scratching the paint. Surprised it hasn't been mentioned yet.
This also a very good time to clean and liberally lubricate the entire assembly, my latch was so dry and full of dried white grease, that it wouldn't move freely at all.
I'd bet that 99% of hood release failures occur from this; stiff, dried up grease, latches. When it's cleaned and lubed the hood can be released w/a pinky. That is some low stress on the cables and mechanism. When I bought my car the latches were dry and the release was stiff...but not alarmingly so. Still, I cleaned and lubed them both and now a pinky can do it.
It's like most maintenance; if people did it we wouldn't have threads about breaking into hoods, overheating engines, etc.
I used 12" black vinyl coated steel leaders from bass pro (stock # 215703)
I took the clip and swivel off. Then the loop slides into the existing cable clip
I tried to take a pic of the end by the wipers but it doesn't show up.
Nice. But, be sure the cable will be pulling on the latch release lever itself, and not only the retaining clip. Tugging on the clip will probably not be as reliable.
Nice. But, be sure the cable will be pulling on the latch release lever itself, and not only the retaining clip. Tugging on the clip will probably not be as reliable.
I'd bet that 99% of hood release failures occur from this; stiff, dried up grease, latches. When it's cleaned and lubed the hood can be released w/a pinky. That is some low stress on the cables and mechanism. When I bought my car the latches were dry and the release was stiff...but not alarmingly so. Still, I cleaned and lubed them both and now a pinky can do it.
It's like most maintenance; if people did it we wouldn't have threads about breaking into hoods, overheating engines, etc.
Sorry for the necro bump but I thought this thread was the most appropriate. Well...you already guessed what happened! Didn't think this would happen so soon considering the ease of opening the hood. Poor attempt of making a "hoodie slimjim" tool out of some 3/16" rod I had laying around with numerous failed attempts to unlatch from the door jamb. The rod material was too soft as the rod would twist under tension. Managed to get the hood unlatched by stopping wipers at vertical and fishing for the the latch from the base of the wiper arm. Not my pic, marked up for representation of angle...
Interim fix was to use .040" stainless wire twisted affixed to latch in the same manner as "emergency cables" until I can procure a new release cable.
Sorry for the necro bump but I thought this thread was the most appropriate. Well...you already guessed what happened! Didn't think this would happen so soon considering the ease of opening the hood. Poor attempt of making a "hoodie slimjim" tool out of some 3/16" rod I had laying around with numerous failed attempts to unlatch from the door jamb. The rod material was too soft as the rod would twist under tension. Managed to get the hood unlatched by stopping wipers at vertical and fishing for the the latch from the base of the wiper arm. Not my pic, marked up for representation of angle...
Interim fix was to use .040" stainless wire twisted affixed to latch in the same manner as "emergency cables" until I can procure a new release cable.
The tool I bought from Eckler's works a treat. Still sits unnoticed behind my seat. Bonus is, no C4 savvy thieves can pop my hood. Since I actually drive my C4 daily, and pond scum walks free among us, that is a concern.
When my hood DID jam (on a trip to Tail of the Dragon!!) it was because the clip holding the cable in place broke off. Everything was lubed and it opened with a pinky until it did not. So that finally puts me in the coveted one percent, according to Tom.
That being the case, I'll be upgrading to a ZR-1 any day now.
The tool I bought from Eckler's works a treat. Still sits unnoticed behind my seat. Bonus is, no C4 savvy thieves can pop my hood. Since I actually drive my C4 daily, and pond scum walks free among us, that is a concern.
When my hood DID jam (on a trip to Tail of the Dragon!!) it was because the clip holding the cable in place broke off. Everything was lubed and it opened with a pinky until it did not. So that finally puts me in the coveted one percent, according to Tom.
That being the case, I'll be upgrading to a ZR-1 any day now.
Do you think low lives walk around looking for home made hood releases, LOL?
07-03-2017, 08:40 AM
I'd bet that 99% of hood release failures occur from this; stiff, dried up grease, latches. When it's cleaned and lubed the hood can be released w/a pinky. That is some low stress on the cables and mechanism. When I bought my car the latches were dry and the release was stiff...but not alarmingly so. Still, I cleaned and lubed them both and now a pinky can do it. 
Didn't think this would happen so soon considering the ease of opening the hood. Poor attempt of making a "hoodie slimjim" tool out of some 3/16" rod I had laying around with numerous failed attempts to unlatch from the door jamb. The rod material was too soft as the rod would twist under tension. Managed to get the hood unlatched by stopping wipers at vertical and fishing for the the latch from the base of the wiper arm. Not my pic, marked up for representation of angle...
