drcook

I tell you what, getting the rear bearings out without dropping the spring and pulling the half shafts is a ****. It took a couple hours to figure out the right combination of extensions and Torx bits.

The 2nd one took less than 30 minutes once I figured it out.

When I do the rear suspension (bushings, shocks) complete Banski (all sitting in the closet) then I will do the U-joints on the half and drive shafts. That will be in the spring. I have other chores I need to get done.

I also put new brakes, pads and one caliper on the rear. Tomorrow will be new rotors and pads on the front.

These are not so much different from working on a C2. A little, but it is still wrenching.

I redid the rear swing arms, bearings, bushings and all the suspension on the C2 I had. But that was a long time ago. At least the old man can still do some wrenching :-).

I have both the electronic version of the FSM (thank you :-) ) and a paper copy of both books that I found on Craigslist for.....drum roll please.....$25.00. I gave the guy some gas money and shipping ended up less than $50.00.

The FSM's are a life saver.

zachaeous

I know what you are talking about. I replaced both rear wheel bearings on my c4 a couple of years ago. It was hard for this old man to get it done as well. I did replace the U-joints on the half shafts as well.

Hopefully, I will not have to do it again.

PLRX

It is a PITA and that is the reason I always remove the knuckle out of the way. Things get done correctly that way. Using extensions and swivels is not the way to install that part.

IMO it's easier removing the knuckle out as long you have the correct tools.

hcbph

I've done a rear hub, the half-shaft u-joints and replaced the trailing arms, camber rods and toe rods with the Banski rear kits.

For tearing the rear down and getting to the various parts, here's the thread I used and it's pretty good: http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=144562

One thing to watch with the Banski kit is the bottom end of the camber rods. The knuckle opening can vary in the width of the opening. The kit was apparently designed for an opening of 1.7", while on mine it turned out they are 1.64" so I had some mods to do to make them fit.

drcook

Jack the Giant must have put the axle stub nuts on in that thread. I am not overly strong like I used to be (too many orthopedic surgeries and years passing by), but I was able to take mine loose with an 18" breaker bar. They have never been removed since put on at the factory. (car only had 11,800 miles when I got it last July).

All the factory adhesive and sealers were still on all the bolts.

I also sprayed everything with PB Blaster a couple days ahead of time.

There is a "sweet spot" in between the spring and the arm, that with the right extension, you can get the top one loose. After that it is a piece of cake. The hard part was getting the right combination. I have 1/2 drive Torx drivers and 3/8" drive Torx drivers.

I agree it would be easier with all the parts out. I just don't have that time right now to completely remove it all. As I said, that is next spring when I redo the entire rear end. I am going to clean it up nice like yours.

I am thinking about putting that Zip Corvette modified batwing in while I have everything out I am not going to drag race the car (or race it at all) so the D36 with the enhanced batwing will be good for my purposes.

After I get the front brakes done tomorrow, I have to clean the car up and go to a local car show. Then on Saturday I am going to start replacing the radiator.

There are pros and cons against buying a low mileage car as there are a high mileage car. One that sits too much can lose its bearings and time itself deals with the side tanks on the radiator. There is a pin hole leak somewhere.

Last year end, DeWitts ran a really good sale, so I got one of theirs then. A 2 row.

My plan is to get the entire suspension/platform done and then modify the engine/trans.

drcook

Just got done tightening the spindle nuts. I bought a 3/4" drive torque wrench back when the 07 Ranger I had was eating front hubs. For some reason it just ate them up.

A 3/4" wrench made tightening these a breeze. I will back recheck them in the morning. I got it from Harbor Freight with a 25% off coupon. Since I don't use it that often, it will last a long time. The 36 mm socket came from Advance Auto. I used a 3/4" to 1/2" drive reducer, once again Harbor Freight.

drcook

Also just sharing, as far as the jacking the car up, I bought one of the jack attachments from the Corvette Gadget man

here: http://www.corvettegadgetman.com/products3.html

works great. I also bought an additional small 2 1/2 ton jack. I put one under each side (at the jacking point) and give each a couple 2 or 3 cranks. then I run around to the other side. lifts the car up without causing undue strain on it.

my buddy here lifted his 1990 with a floor jack on one side and the hood actually moved out of alignment. when lifting with multiple jacks, I hear no creaks nor moans, the doors don't get loose or tight, etc.

but most of you probably knew this. this info is more for folks just starting to work on their cars themselves.

I have picked up a lot of C4 working on knowledge from folks on the board, so just trying to pay some forward for the next up and coming C4 mechanic