1996 collectors edition
#21
Melting Slicks
When the air quit blowing was the car cool and the system in auto? If the car reaches the set temperature the system turns down the blower fan.
I'm guessing your in the Montgomery area?
I'm guessing your in the Montgomery area?
#22
Advanced
Thread Starter
Huntsville area. As soon as you turn air on when you first start the car it will only blow the floor and defrost vents. Drive it for a while and eventually come out the face vents or it may never it's a 50/50 shot.
#24
Melting Slicks
This is a common 1996 issue not specific to your car. It can be fixed but the problem part is buried behind the dash therefore not easy to get to.
#25
1965kyzer -
Check this thread. Page back to the 3rd page or so. The "air not blowing out the front vents" problem is somewhat unique to the 96's and due to a bad vacuum connector at the AC Programmer Module. Not an expensive fix, but a job to fix.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...l-problem.html
Joe C. In NorCal
Check this thread. Page back to the 3rd page or so. The "air not blowing out the front vents" problem is somewhat unique to the 96's and due to a bad vacuum connector at the AC Programmer Module. Not an expensive fix, but a job to fix.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...l-problem.html
Joe C. In NorCal
#26
Le Mans Master
The headlight issue is very cheap and not too hard to fix yourself. Do a search here for headlight gears. The a/c vents have been covered already. I'm also not sure about the wiper thing - it may be the controller in stalk, which is probably cheap but a bit of a pain to replace. Again I'd do a search here, since it may be a fairly common issue. The exhaust leak should be an easy and cheap fix either for you (if you have jack, jackstands, and don't mind getting dirty) or a shop.
The rough idle kind of depends. The first thing I'd do is check for any trouble codes. That may make it obvious what's wrong. The second thing I'd do is try to compare your car's idle to that of a known-good, stock LT1 C4 with an automatic (compare both in neutral and drive); just to make sure it's actually rougher than it should be. After that, it could be a lot of things from a dying O2 sensor (cheap and fairly simple to replace) to a bad valve in the rebuilt heads (not cheap or easy at all). If no codes, then it will be a fairly intensive process just to track down the cause. The Factory Service Manual can help with this. BTW, I wonder if it's possible that the bad vacuum connector for the HVAC vents could possibly cause a big enough leak to make the idle rough? Assuming no codes, it may be best to fix the a/c vent issue first and then reassess the idle.
It's a nice car at a nice price. It's definitely worth putting in the work!
The rough idle kind of depends. The first thing I'd do is check for any trouble codes. That may make it obvious what's wrong. The second thing I'd do is try to compare your car's idle to that of a known-good, stock LT1 C4 with an automatic (compare both in neutral and drive); just to make sure it's actually rougher than it should be. After that, it could be a lot of things from a dying O2 sensor (cheap and fairly simple to replace) to a bad valve in the rebuilt heads (not cheap or easy at all). If no codes, then it will be a fairly intensive process just to track down the cause. The Factory Service Manual can help with this. BTW, I wonder if it's possible that the bad vacuum connector for the HVAC vents could possibly cause a big enough leak to make the idle rough? Assuming no codes, it may be best to fix the a/c vent issue first and then reassess the idle.
It's a nice car at a nice price. It's definitely worth putting in the work!