Jacking front of C4 with a floor jack
#1
Jacking front of C4 with a floor jack
The AIM manual says to place a floor jack under the front center of the C4 between the drive train and front suspension frame between the two front wheels. Why is this subject so complicated? I've been reading posts for hours now and everyone seems to have a different opinion.
Is the manual incorrect?
Is the manual incorrect?
#3
Ramps or 2 pieces of 2"x12"s. I just wanted to work on the front brakes and wanted both front wheels up at the same time.
No response necessary as I decided to sell this hard steering/braking, rattle trap of a car. I bought it because I loved how it looked and hated the C5 and C6 and couldn't afford a C7. It might be great on a track but around town... not so much. I guess It was an impulse buy. I should have drove one before buying it on Ebay. Oh well, live and learn I guess.
No response necessary as I decided to sell this hard steering/braking, rattle trap of a car. I bought it because I loved how it looked and hated the C5 and C6 and couldn't afford a C7. It might be great on a track but around town... not so much. I guess It was an impulse buy. I should have drove one before buying it on Ebay. Oh well, live and learn I guess.
Last edited by technobob; 08-22-2017 at 08:51 AM.
#4
Safety Car
I've jacked the front end of my 86 several times, here's what I do.
First off I have 2 floor jacks, one is a low profile and one is a 2 or 3 ton one. I also have a small hardwood block that fits in the cup of the one jack, there's a slot in it that fits the pinch weld where you jack the car on the side.
I use the regular jack and the block and jack the car behind the front wheel enough so I can get the other jack under the rubber front spoiler. I position it so it's under the front cross-member, centered and not under one of the holes in the cross member. This one has a rubber pad in the middle of the jack cup so it's resistant to slipping. If I have to lift it only a little that's it.
If I need to raise it more for some tall jack stands etc then there's more. I have some 3 1/2" x10" planks I put under the tires and lower it onto them. I have a piece of steel plate with an adapter that fits my bigger jack. With the car up this far I can get it under the cross member and raise it up to where the wheels are about 8"-10" off the ground. I can then put jackstands etc under the car.
You didn't ask for it but if you're going to raise the rear end, check out the gadgeman's jack adapter. It also fits a floor jack and slides between the exhaust pipes and raises the rear of the car via the batwing.
I have a convertible so I have the x-brace under the car. I have plastic pads on some of my jackstands to prevent slippage, I position them where the x-brace bolts onto the car. I also have some 7" wheel stands (ramps with the incline removed) and between the 2 types I've been able to raise and support my car multiple times without problem.
One more thing, Unless it's in the way I always leave the jack under the car in addition to jackstands etc. I just have it snug against the vehicle, letting the jackstands etc support the car but this acts as a backup.
Hope that helps.
First off I have 2 floor jacks, one is a low profile and one is a 2 or 3 ton one. I also have a small hardwood block that fits in the cup of the one jack, there's a slot in it that fits the pinch weld where you jack the car on the side.
I use the regular jack and the block and jack the car behind the front wheel enough so I can get the other jack under the rubber front spoiler. I position it so it's under the front cross-member, centered and not under one of the holes in the cross member. This one has a rubber pad in the middle of the jack cup so it's resistant to slipping. If I have to lift it only a little that's it.
If I need to raise it more for some tall jack stands etc then there's more. I have some 3 1/2" x10" planks I put under the tires and lower it onto them. I have a piece of steel plate with an adapter that fits my bigger jack. With the car up this far I can get it under the cross member and raise it up to where the wheels are about 8"-10" off the ground. I can then put jackstands etc under the car.
You didn't ask for it but if you're going to raise the rear end, check out the gadgeman's jack adapter. It also fits a floor jack and slides between the exhaust pipes and raises the rear of the car via the batwing.
I have a convertible so I have the x-brace under the car. I have plastic pads on some of my jackstands to prevent slippage, I position them where the x-brace bolts onto the car. I also have some 7" wheel stands (ramps with the incline removed) and between the 2 types I've been able to raise and support my car multiple times without problem.
One more thing, Unless it's in the way I always leave the jack under the car in addition to jackstands etc. I just have it snug against the vehicle, letting the jackstands etc support the car but this acts as a backup.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by hcbph; 08-22-2017 at 08:45 AM.
#5
Instructor
Ramps or 2 pieces of 2"x12"s. I just wanted to work on the front brakes and wanted both front wheels up at the same time.
No response necessary as I decided to sell this hard steering/braking, rattle trap of a car. I bought it because I loved how it looked and hated the C5 and C6 and couldn't afford a C7. It might be great on a track but around town... not so much. I guess It was an impulse buy. I should have drove one before buying it on Ebay. Oh well, live and learn I guess.
No response necessary as I decided to sell this hard steering/braking, rattle trap of a car. I bought it because I loved how it looked and hated the C5 and C6 and couldn't afford a C7. It might be great on a track but around town... not so much. I guess It was an impulse buy. I should have drove one before buying it on Ebay. Oh well, live and learn I guess.
Sorry to hear that. Do you think you got a bad example or is it the nature of the car you don't like?
#6
Also, it's not the car's fault but I live on a dirt road that has many bumps, even after grading. So the car sounds like everything is coming loose and when the road gets wet it gets muddy so I feel compelled to wash it after driving it.
Then on top of that it's difficult to work on. The crazy jacking points and special $60.00 device needed to even raise the rear end.
I could go on... but it's definitely got to go!
#7
Instructor
No. Not a bad example. I think the tough, heavy steering, large turning radius, stiff brakes... and the final straw...rattles is indicative of the car, as I see posts all over about these issues. For example the passenger side airbag or air vent rattles or buzzes. I've had the whole air vent apart and added padding around the vent and velcro to the fuse box, etc. but still the rattles and buzzes are so loud it just drives me nuts.
Also, it's not the car's fault but I live on a dirt road that has many bumps, even after grading. So the car sounds like everything is coming loose and when the road gets wet it gets muddy so I feel compelled to wash it after driving it.
Then on top of that it's difficult to work on. The crazy jacking points and special $60.00 device needed to even raise the rear end.
I could go on... but it's definitely got to go!
Also, it's not the car's fault but I live on a dirt road that has many bumps, even after grading. So the car sounds like everything is coming loose and when the road gets wet it gets muddy so I feel compelled to wash it after driving it.
Then on top of that it's difficult to work on. The crazy jacking points and special $60.00 device needed to even raise the rear end.
I could go on... but it's definitely got to go!
#8
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
It's not. Read your owners manual, put the jack where the car tells you to (it's printed right on the rocker panel) and jack. You can have a C4 on 4 jack stands in 4 minutes, doing it the way the people who built the car, recommend. EASY.
.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 08-22-2017 at 02:01 PM.
#9
Here's just one video I found that recommends NOT to use oem jack points which are used only for the jack that came with the car.
Just tried to stop passenger air vent rattle and broke a clip on the vent. The part is discontinued and no one has a replacement, new or used. So much for "easily accessible replacement parts fo C4 Corvettes" which I read in a 'vette magazine.
I've had enough of this madness already!
Last edited by technobob; 08-22-2017 at 02:21 PM.
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#10
^^^^
this video cracks me up!
im in kindergarten again!
this video cracks me up!
im in kindergarten again!
#11
Safety Car
If you go to a Chevy dealership and they are going to pull the wheels, they will stick the lift arms at the designated points.
I use two smaller jackstands under the points that are indicated to jack when lifting the front. I do a couple pumps on one side, go to the other side and lift it the equal amount, then a couple more. Continue alternating until it is high enough to get some jackstands under another part of the frame. Then use both jacks and jackstands to support the car.
My friend moved his hood by jacking on only one side.
I use the gadgetman device for the rear.
No sports type car is going to like a bumpy dirt road. In fact, any vehicle with a stiffer suspension is not going to be pleasant driving on those conditions.
It will probably cost less to buy a couple smaller 2 1/2 ton jacks, the gadgetman device, in your case, mudflaps (the politically correct grammar natzees [you can't even use the correct term cause some man bunned sensitive type who wrote the software asterisks the word out] call them splash guards) than it will be the loss you are going to take in order to sell it in the near term. There as so many on the market right now that it has to be a special car to return your initial outlay.
I use two smaller jackstands under the points that are indicated to jack when lifting the front. I do a couple pumps on one side, go to the other side and lift it the equal amount, then a couple more. Continue alternating until it is high enough to get some jackstands under another part of the frame. Then use both jacks and jackstands to support the car.
My friend moved his hood by jacking on only one side.
I use the gadgetman device for the rear.
No sports type car is going to like a bumpy dirt road. In fact, any vehicle with a stiffer suspension is not going to be pleasant driving on those conditions.
It will probably cost less to buy a couple smaller 2 1/2 ton jacks, the gadgetman device, in your case, mudflaps (the politically correct grammar natzees [you can't even use the correct term cause some man bunned sensitive type who wrote the software asterisks the word out] call them splash guards) than it will be the loss you are going to take in order to sell it in the near term. There as so many on the market right now that it has to be a special car to return your initial outlay.
Last edited by drcook; 08-22-2017 at 03:12 PM.
#12
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,529
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Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
As I have many times, I prefer to side jack, as in raise a whole side, jack stands, raise the other, jack stands, done.
Pics here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...jack-a-c4.html
Pics here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...jack-a-c4.html
#14
Team Owner
that's twice....if I have to clean up more "crap" the poster of said crap will get a day or 2 off
#15
Race Director
I have been jacking with floor jacks (no pucks) on the marked jacking points ever since I got the car in 1985. I have never had any problems. I guess mine is an isolated situation...
#16
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 7,690
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C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Was wondering if the OP would explain to us why he wants to jack up both sides of the front simultaneously ..... rather than just doing one side at a time and then using jack stands?.
Been lifting my 95 up for the past 12 years by jacking one side at a time using the markings on the side of the car without issue.
Been lifting my 95 up for the past 12 years by jacking one side at a time using the markings on the side of the car without issue.
#17
Racer
Or you can do what I do when putting the car ('93 coupe) up on ramps. I drive it onto two 2x12" that I nailed together and put in front of the ramps so it doesn't scrape the ramp. if you don't want to use the ramp, just drive onto the wood pieces, that lifts it off the ground 3" so you can put a jack in the middle in the front and lift the whole car at the same time.
If you stagger the two pieces when you nail or screw it together to make it ramp shape it's not such a jump onto the top board.
If you stagger the two pieces when you nail or screw it together to make it ramp shape it's not such a jump onto the top board.