New to corvettes
09-11-2017, 09:35 PM
#42
Racer
Thread Starter
OK, the questions start. What must be done to the A/C to be able to use the proper refrigerant?
First thing I noticed he had the air on and that accounted for the clicking mentioned earlier. Switched it off and it idles like a purring kitten.
First thing I noticed he had the air on and that accounted for the clicking mentioned earlier. Switched it off and it idles like a purring kitten.
09-11-2017, 11:15 PM
#44
if u r wanting to diy it, buy this kit,
Look at this on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/281127606263
Combo Set 3CFM 1/4hp Air Vacuum Pump HVAC Refrigeration AC Manifold Gauge r134
then buy these little adapters for the high and low side ports.
Look at this on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/121444359264
High & Low Side Fitting Adapter Set 134a Conversion Set #3000
dont forget to fill the vacuum pump with lubrication oil
then watch a youtube video to learn how to use that equipment
pull vacuum on the system for 30 min, isolate the ac system by closing the valves. turn off pump and see how long the system holds its -30hg vacuum as shown on the dial.
as long as it holds for a few hours then u have no leaks.
then buy this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HEPH26O/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
and connect it to the fill port on the manifold and allow it to recharge the ac system in your car.
note that many people simply buy the redtek (or similar) kit and install onto the low side and do not bother pullulling the vacuum on the system. 8/10 times this works and you will have cold ac again.
personally i prefer to do it more professionally by vacuuming it out and starting with a fresh r12a install.
3 c4's later and THIS WORKS GREAT.
be sure your refridgerant is the "oilchill" or the "oilcharge" (i think all of these kits may have the oil and refridgerant mixed in already actually) but you want to know that the oil is already in the refridgerant thats the point.
and yes, toss the can of leak stop in.
stuff works great. ive successfully pulled vacuum and charged with zero issues and ice cold ac on a 08 trailblazer, 06 tacoma, 06 denali xl, 85 corvette, 87 corvette, 86 corvette.
note that if you have plugged up systems it isnt going to work. furthermore you may consider doing an external rad and condensor clean to really cool off that refridgerant as it passes through the condensor in fromt of the rad.
cheerio!
09-11-2017, 11:18 PM
#45
09-12-2017, 09:45 AM
#46
Safety Car
The switch itself is a real bear to try to remove and replace. Simply unplug the switch as you can easily see the plug going to the switch under drivers side dash. "Jumper" the plug by crossing the two contact points on the plug. This will eliminate the switch from being used. Be careful when starting the car as the switch will no longer be operational and the car can start in gear. Just always push in the clutch or start the car in neutral. Just like we used to do in the days before these switches were ever used. I did this to my 85 a few years ago because the switch was failing. Glad I did. If it fails completely, you will be unable to start the car.
09-12-2017, 05:52 PM
#47
Racer
Thread Starter
The switch itself is a real bear to try to remove and replace. Simply unplug the switch as you can easily see the plug going to the switch under drivers side dash. "Jumper" the plug by crossing the two contact points on the plug. This will eliminate the switch from being used. Be careful when starting the car as the switch will no longer be operational and the car can start in gear. Just always push in the clutch or start the car in neutral. Just like we used to do in the days before these switches were ever used. I did this to my 85 a few years ago because the switch was failing. Glad I did. If it fails completely, you will be unable to start the car.
09-13-2017, 11:35 AM
#48
Racer
Thread Starter
Had it in the shop and he says there is a "rod" connected to the key part of the ignition that has to be adjusted to make the key turn easier. What's that all about???
09-13-2017, 11:59 AM
#49
maybe.
yes there is a rod.
but my 86 was not ran in years and when i bought it the key rotation was sticky. i put a few drops of penetrant on the key and cycled the key several times. it loosened up. not sure it it was just the driving and use that loosened it up or if it ws the penetrant.
furthermore, the rod may simply need a drop of lube on its mechanical friction points. grab a you gster and get them to remove the driver seat. remove the plastic kick panel and caredully unplug the light. look up with a flashlight as you rotate the key and he/she will see the bar.
I wouldnt get to excited about it for now.
if you have the 4+3 the trans does need to be in reverse to get the key out. this one got me!
yes there is a rod.
but my 86 was not ran in years and when i bought it the key rotation was sticky. i put a few drops of penetrant on the key and cycled the key several times. it loosened up. not sure it it was just the driving and use that loosened it up or if it ws the penetrant.
furthermore, the rod may simply need a drop of lube on its mechanical friction points. grab a you gster and get them to remove the driver seat. remove the plastic kick panel and caredully unplug the light. look up with a flashlight as you rotate the key and he/she will see the bar.
I wouldnt get to excited about it for now.
if you have the 4+3 the trans does need to be in reverse to get the key out. this one got me!
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 09-13-2017 at 12:01 PM.
The following users liked this post:
stabac (09-13-2017)
09-13-2017, 02:06 PM
#51
Racer
Thread Starter
maybe.
yes there is a rod.
but my 86 was not ran in years and when i bought it the key rotation was sticky. i put a few drops of penetrant on the key and cycled the key several times. it loosened up. not sure it it was just the driving and use that loosened it up or if it ws the penetrant.
furthermore, the rod may simply need a drop of lube on its mechanical friction points. grab a you gster and get them to remove the driver seat. remove the plastic kick panel and caredully unplug the light. look up with a flashlight as you rotate the key and he/she will see the bar.
I wouldnt get to excited about it for now
if you have the 4+3 the trans does need to be in reverse to get the key out. this one got me!
yes there is a rod.
but my 86 was not ran in years and when i bought it the key rotation was sticky. i put a few drops of penetrant on the key and cycled the key several times. it loosened up. not sure it it was just the driving and use that loosened it up or if it ws the penetrant.
furthermore, the rod may simply need a drop of lube on its mechanical friction points. grab a you gster and get them to remove the driver seat. remove the plastic kick panel and caredully unplug the light. look up with a flashlight as you rotate the key and he/she will see the bar.
I wouldnt get to excited about it for now
if you have the 4+3 the trans does need to be in reverse to get the key out. this one got me!
09-13-2017, 03:30 PM
#53
Racer
Thread Starter
I didn't want to say anything, but...I don't have the car. I went to the DMV yesterday to get my plates, about 20 miles, registration went fine, got in the car and got to the edge of their driveway stopped for traffic and suddenly something under the clutch area went KABOOM!!
Come On!!! The plates aren't even on, they're sitting in the luggage area. Is someone trying to tell me something??
The clutch pedal was hanging as limp as my.....oh well it was just flapping around freely. Spent all day on the tow truck and at the service station. They looked at it today and found that a clip and washer had fallen off where the pedal connects to the slave cylinder line. It's all fixed and I have to make arrangements to pick it up
Come On!!! The plates aren't even on, they're sitting in the luggage area. Is someone trying to tell me something??
The clutch pedal was hanging as limp as my.....oh well it was just flapping around freely. Spent all day on the tow truck and at the service station. They looked at it today and found that a clip and washer had fallen off where the pedal connects to the slave cylinder line. It's all fixed and I have to make arrangements to pick it up
09-13-2017, 03:57 PM
#54
Instructor
The rod they're describing is actually a cable that runs from the shifter ***'y to the steering column. It's called the backdrive linkage.
When the shifter is placed in PARK or REVERSE on manual trans cars, the lock rod is moved up into the lock plate so the steering wheel can't be turned. The key cylinder can also be turned to the lock position and the key can be removed.
This locks the car in park/reverse and locks the steering as a theft deterrent.
Hope this helps.
Jonathan.....
BTW The first purchase after the car needs to be a factory shop manual. A copy on CD should costs $35-$40 and is worth its weight in platinum. I bought mine on then copied it to a flash drive.
When the shifter is placed in PARK or REVERSE on manual trans cars, the lock rod is moved up into the lock plate so the steering wheel can't be turned. The key cylinder can also be turned to the lock position and the key can be removed.
This locks the car in park/reverse and locks the steering as a theft deterrent.
Hope this helps.
Jonathan.....
BTW The first purchase after the car needs to be a factory shop manual. A copy on CD should costs $35-$40 and is worth its weight in platinum. I bought mine on then copied it to a flash drive.
09-13-2017, 07:12 PM
#56
the c4 will keep you on your toes sir!
09-14-2017, 10:37 AM
#58
Safety Car
Don't be bothered or upset with fixing or repairing a few things as soon as you get it. It's called "making it your own". You are taking care of things to make it "right" for you. That's a good thing! 
09-15-2017, 02:24 PM
#60
Drifting
I've owned 4 of them over the years.TWO 96 auto Coupes, 92 auto vert and 95 6-speed coupe and i love them!!! there is not a better value out there for a quality performance car thats still for the most part...modern. i have a cheesy DIY youtube channel and its mostly nickle-n-dime stuff...although i am going to tackle the dreaded LT1 opti very soon (doesnt apply to the car you are looking at).
like everybody said, pick wisely...unless you have time and money and patience, buy one thats already in good shape and well maintained. both my current cars (92 and 95) cost me an average purchase price of under $4k and they have been great cars for me.
C4's are WAY WAY WAY under appreciated. in fact many people i know both in real life and on the forums went to other generations like the C5 and are now back to the simple C4's...there's got to be a reason for that!!!
like everybody said, pick wisely...unless you have time and money and patience, buy one thats already in good shape and well maintained. both my current cars (92 and 95) cost me an average purchase price of under $4k and they have been great cars for me.
C4's are WAY WAY WAY under appreciated. in fact many people i know both in real life and on the forums went to other generations like the C5 and are now back to the simple C4's...there's got to be a reason for that!!!
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stabac (09-15-2017)