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This is my first Corvette, its a 93, i just got it a few days ago, i need to get a state inspection so i can start driving it, but the horn doesn't work, i get NO sound when i press either buttons on the wheel, no relay clicks either, the only fuse i can find says "horn relay" and it appears to be good.
any someone point me in the right direction?
oh yeah..and im NOT very good with wiring!
thanks
You don't have to be very good at wiring to test horns! Are your horns any good? Test them by connecting 12 volts from the + terminal of your battery to the terminal on the horn. If there are two wires on your horn (I doubt it), trace which wire is connected to the chassis. It's the other wire you want.
You'll need a 12 volt test light to check further. Do you have 12 v. on both of the little test points on your "horn relay" fuse?
if your automatic locking is working, the horn will chirp when you walk away from the car as it locks. I have a '93 Ruby.
If this isn't working, you can test the horns by rolling down the window. Lock the car, leave the keys far enough from the car so it won't unlock it and manually reach in and unlock the door, open it and see if the alarm goes off. If the horn sounds, your horns are fine.
My horn isn't working right now and I've checked the contacts, so now I'm down to removing the airbag and see if the mechanism under it has failed. You can check other threads on this site to see some of the other things that need checked.
Good luck. You need a horn, I've almost been hit several times, people just don't seem to see our cars...
My 92 horns worked when they felt like it. I had the steering wheel apart and got them fixed. I posted some pics in this thread of what I found. Since cleaning the contacts I didn't have any more problems.
The test mentioned about locking the car and reaching in the window narrowed mine down to the switch contacts. You can clean those without removing the airbag.
Last edited by belairbrian; 09-11-2017 at 12:11 AM.
Thanks for the info! My key fob doesn't work either, will that also affect the way the alarm would work? Because i never hear anything for an alarm, and the doors dont lock when i walk away
[My key fob doesn't work either, and the doors dont lock when i walk away]
Your auto locking system won't work if the key fob isn't working. So, try locking the car, window down, reach-in and see if you can set off the alarm when opening the door. At least you can narrow down if the horns are bad or not.
Again, I'd suggest doing some other searches on "horn" and read what has already been posted. There are a whole slew of people here that are very knowledgeable about these cars and how to fix them. Many good threads on what to look for, etc. Sometimes they assume that we know how to do certain things, so don't be afraid to say "I don't have a volt meter" or whatever the case may be. Note- Get a volt meter and read about how to use it, it will come in handy!
Both horns were dead in BOTH of my C4s, '95 and '96. Installed FIAMM replacements. But I did get the relay click. Some have found the plastic buttons in the wheel had deteriorated. Try simple first and test. Bad fuses can pass a visual.
Unfortunately, the horn doesn't always dissuade the determined idiot. But my check is in the mail.
Good luck, welcome, and congrats. And we like pictures!
I wrote this up many years ago (2000 maybe)- Maybe it will help:
I will try to walk you through this, but it is being done from memory so please bear with me. I am assuming that you have checked and cleaned the connections at the horns themselves.
There are several problems I have found that seem to come up with the horn buttons.
1. The Buttons themselves are made of a plastic that seems to deteriorate over time. This plus the normal (and abnormal) pressing on the buttons causes a little "nipple" inside of them to break. This nipple's purpose is to press down on the brass contacts underneath it and complete the circuit. No nipple=no contact=no horn.
2. There is a wire (one only) that goes between the brass contacts and the hub of the steering wheel. At the end of this wire is attached a plastic spring loaded male bayonet fitting that is inserted into a female socket in the steering wheel hub and twisted into place to hold it. This plastic bayonet fitting and/or its socket will also give up after time and separate causing an intermitent contact or no contact.
Solutions:
1. The horn buttons are available from GM for about $6.65 each (2000 price. probably no longer available at a dealer-try e-bay). PN 12506007 and 12506008. There are two ways to remove them from the steering wheel.
A. Using a dull thin blade slide it along the hub side of the button feeling carefully for the catch that latches the button to the wheel. There are two on each side-total four, you only have to find and release two on one side of the button.
The top one is about 1/2-3/4" down from the top of the button and the bottom one is about 1/2-3/4" up from the bottom of the button. When you locate each catch, push in (toward the center of the button) gently on it while lifting the button. You have to do this twice-top and bottom on one side. The button should then pop off.
I have mine discretely marked so the catches are easy to find. You may want to do this to them after they are off.
B. The second way means removing the airbag. Disconnect the battery. Pull the fuse controlling the airbag. At the rear of the steering wheel spokes are imbeded two torx screw. Unscrew these two screws and then GENTLY lift off the airbag. I advise being off to one side of the steering wheel while doing this as an improperly handled airbag can be dangerous. (These things are shipped all over the country without problem but I would rather be cautious). BE SURE THERE IS NO ELECTRICAL POWER AVAILABLE!!!!
After the airbag is off, the buttons are easily accessible.
2. If the wire/bayonet socket is defective the solution is a little more involved. The airbag must be removed as above to get to the wire.
To the best of my knowledge replacement sockets are not available and the GM solution is to replace the steering wheel hub assembly. VERY EXPENSIVE and a lot of labor.
But there is hope. By using a piece of stiff plastic (1/16" plexiglas sheet works fine) I cut it into a U shaped piece that fit flat into the hub around the hub retaining bolt and with a very narrow slot that the horn wire was fed (but not wide enough slot to allow the bayonet socket to come through) over the socket. This piece will hold the bayonet socket in place. The plastic piece is held in place by a very short bolt (1/2") that is screwed into one of the bolt holes that are used for a steering wheel puller. DO NOT use a long bolt as it may hit the internals underneath the hub causing a short or other problems.
I hope the description makes sense. A picture (if I had one) would make it very clear.
It seems like a lot of people have problems with the horns on the C-4. Hope this helps.
To the best of my knowledge replacement sockets are not available and the GM solution is to replace the steering wheel hub assembly. VERY EXPENSIVE and a lot of labor.
What part are you referring to? The plastic tube that the spring loaded contact goes in or the black plastic tubeon the wire that compresses the spring?
So far, i checked the contacts under the horn buttons, them and the buttons look ok, the fuse is good, i get no clicking from the relay (where ever it is)
Nothing happens when i lock the door and reach in to open it, not sure how to check the horns themselves, i do have an multimeter, but haven't ever used it..
So far, i checked the contacts under the horn buttons, them and the buttons look ok, the fuse is good, i get no clicking from the relay (where ever it is)
Nothing happens when i lock the door and reach in to open it, not sure how to check the horns themselves, i do have an multimeter, but haven't ever used it..
Or do easy last. That works too.
If you insert the probes from your multimeter into the unplugged connector at the horn, it should show 12VDC when you press the buttons.
What part are you referring to? The plastic tube that the spring loaded contact goes in or the black plastic tube on the wire that compresses the spring?
Please excuse my memory; the last time I worked on the horns was over 19 years ago.
There was a small bayonet type plug that inserts into a socket embedded in and flush with the steering wheel hub. The socket had partially broken to the point where the socket couldn't lock the plug.
If memory is correct the plug had a wire attached to it that connected to the horn switches.
Since the plug wouldn't stay in the socket there was no electrical connection thus no horn when the buttons were pushed.
I still have the car and the patch and horns still work!
On my 93 the left hirn button is working but not the right. Just not a high priority to take it apart to fix. You do need to disconnect battery and turn on lights to make sure you won't set off the air bag.
Water can get into the horn and prevent it from working with rust. Just remove it spray sme wd40 in it let it set and than hook it to a battery to try. On older ones there use to be a set screw that could be removed as it also adjusted the pitch but can't remember if that was on mine or not. Just maybe sticking if car has sat for a while and the horn not being used. Just one bolt holds it on and easy ti remove.
i have to buy a new multi-meter today, can't find the one i know i had!..is it possible for BOTH horn to not work?
also, my steering column is pretty loose, and i high beams don't work, wondering if that could affect the horn?
please bear with me here, new to these cars, and working on them...thanks for all the help so far!
i did get the headlight motors repaired with the new bronze gears!
Yes both horns could fail. But I'd look at the common points for both horns.
those are the fuse, the relay, and the ring on the turn signal cancelling cam.
You said you tried this:
"If this isn't working, you can test the horns by rolling down the window. Lock the car, leave the keys far enough from the car so it won't unlock it and manually reach in and unlock the door, open it and see if the alarm goes off. If the horn sounds, your horns are fine."
To clarify, was the door open when you locked it? Or did you lock it with a key from the outside?
If you roll down the window, close the door, then lock it this test doesn't work. It will assume you were sitting in the car and unlocked it.
If the above test failed:
I'd attack this this way. Splitting a circuit usually simplifies troubleshooting.
Remove horn relay
Verify pins 1 and 5 have 12v
-if good jumper pins 1 and 4 horns should blow
- if bad troubleshoot why 12v is missing from the anti-theft fuse in the aux fuse box.
If 12v is present on 1 and 5 and jumping 1 and 4 causes horn to blow, it's the relay.
If it passes the unlock test, the problem is in the steering column side of the circuit.
Last edited by belairbrian; 09-16-2017 at 07:18 PM.
Got the horn working!..pulled the airbag, cleaned and reinstalled the contact with the spring on it, i could then hear the relay clicking but still no horn! so i hooked up an old horn i had off my Harley and it worked, tried it on both sides!...so my guess is that cleaning the contact worked, and BOTH horns where bad.
Got the horn working!..pulled the airbag, cleaned and reinstalled the contact with the spring on it, i could then hear the relay clicking but still no horn! so i hooked up an old horn i had off my Harley and it worked, tried it on both sides!...so my guess is that cleaning the contact worked, and BOTH horns where bad.
Squirt some WD-40 or other penetrating fluid into the old horns. Because of their location they are susceptible to internal corrosion. The WD-40 will loosen things up and they may start working again.
Squirt some WD-40 or other penetrating fluid into the old horns. Because of their location they are susceptible to internal corrosion. The WD-40 will loosen things up and they may start working again.
yeah, i tried that before i bought another horn, it didn't help them..
09-10-2017, 09:03 PM
93 no horn
But my check is in the mail. 
Or do easy last. That works too. 
