AJT84

Remove the belt tensioner, it's one bolt and it makes it much easier to pull off and put back on the plug wires on the driver side.

yd328

Here's the link

I used 2 1/2" bolts. I also backed up the large washers with standard washers, the single washers bent. I had the bolts and washers installed at the 10, 2, and 6 o'clock position. Install the 10 and 2 first, then put the 6 in from behind the pulley and bolt together. Also if you can get some penetrating oil in there a few days before you do it.

Gary

csthews

Great video on the hub removal. I used the "beat it off the hub" method. A tip I read here was to put the drive belt back on after removing the hub bolts. Then bump the engine a few times (make sure it doesn't start). That may loosen the balancer and make it a bit easier to remove....worked for me.

Make sure you carefully record/make note of the routing of the plug wires as you remove them-especially the driver's side-because it won't be obvious how they are routed through the "black hole" under the tensioner pulley. This also holds true for the opti vent hoses.

Check the timing cover seals and gasket. If the hub seal or the cover gasket is leaking, you will have to remove the hub to replace. The hub can be removed with the engine in the car, but doing so can cause heartbreak of epic proportions.

When plugging wires into the opti, make sure you hear 2 distinctive clicks to be sure the wire has been properly seated.

I use a q-tip to coat the inside of the wire boots with the dielectric lube. This way, I can be sure that the grease does not get on any of the electrical connectors.

Finally, I use one of the straight boots from the old wire set to help get the new plugs started....works great.

1993C4LT1

Why do you say "it can cause heartbreak of epic proportions"?

csthews

Frustration is a better word. The hub bolt can be a major PITA. Some have snapped the head off the bolt, while others have rounded the bolt head. When this happens, getting the bolt out without pulling the engine is almost impossible.

My bolt came out without much struggle. But, rather than run the puller rod through the hub and risk damaging the threads in the crank, I threaded a slightly longer bolt into the crank and bottomed it out to minimize pressure on the threads. While cranking on the puller bolt to pull off the hub, I noticed the bolt was going in, but the hub was not moving....soon realized that the bolt I threaded into the crank was actually bending. It took a week and a boat load of tools to get it out. Thankfully I did not damage threads in the crank.

haxxx

I recently did plugs and wires on my 96. It's so tedious that it's consuming, not so much difficult. Mine were replaced 9 years ago with 7mm ACDelco wires and only had 15k on them. They were no good and leaking spark. I ended up buying the 8mm Taylor (74225) off Amazon set for half the price of the ACDelco. For whatever reason the ignition coil wire is different between LT4/LT1. This set seems to come with both.

For the passengers side I didn't have to pull the tensioner off. I used the long serpentine belt tool and propped it against the A/C to get enough room. My hands are small so this worked for me. I would also label the cylinders and get the firing order on the opti. Even though I did removed one wire at a time and replaced it, I somehow managed to get two backwards.

I wouldn't stress too much about the plugs. Aluminum heads have been around for a while and most manufacturers have a special coating on the plug threads to stop from them seizing. All the major manufacturers say not to use anti-seize to prevent over torquing them with torque wrench. Since that's impossible on this car most people use anti seize anyway.

mark970

great contributions over night!! thanks guys for all the info and pro tips. sounds like this is going to (or could be) a job with a couple sore spots. oh well no need to worry about it i will just have to jump in and get my hands dirty (and knuckles scraped).

thank you guys so much

yd328

I pulled my balacer hub off the crankshaft to do the seal. If you decide to do this you need an installer to put it back on. I have a universal installer and it will not work with the lt1 hub. I'm in the process of trying one with threaded rod.

Gary

Renfield

Komiller118