New member 89 C4
09-20-2017, 08:16 AM
#1
New member 89 C4
I bought my first Vette and am having a blast on the SC/NC mountain roads. But, there are so many things that need to be fixed! 2 things top my list. First, there is a sweet smell when it's hot. I keep looking for a leak, smoke, something! Nothing until this am. I saw just a smidge of oil on the top of the engine, drivers side, under the injector rail, toward the front of the engine. Second, I'm thinking I have a climate control blend door issue. My freon has leaked out, but when it was charged, the ac worked great. And, although the in and out heater hoses to the heater core are both hot, I have no heat. Where is this blend door??? The car fogs up on the inside and it's next to impossible to clear the windshield. It's doable by rolling the windows down, but if it's raining, you're stuck.
Last edited by Navyfootball70; 09-20-2017 at 08:18 AM.
09-20-2017, 08:29 AM
#2
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Navyfootball70 (09-20-2017)
Welcome to the forum!
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Navyfootball70 (09-20-2017)
09-20-2017, 09:36 AM
#4
Pro
89 Ca
I bought my first Vette and am having a blast on the SC/NC mountain roads. But, there are so many things that need to be fixed! 2 things top my list. First, there is a sweet smell when it's hot. I keep looking for a leak, smoke, something! Nothing until this am. I saw just a smidge of oil on the top of the engine, drivers side, under the injector rail, toward the front of the engine. Second, I'm thinking I have a climate control blend door issue. My freon has leaked out, but when it was charged, the ac worked great. And, although the in and out heater hoses to the heater core are both hot, I have no heat. Where is this blend door??? The car fogs up on the inside and it's next to impossible to clear the windshield. It's doable by rolling the windows down, but if it's raining, you're stuck.
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Navyfootball70 (09-20-2017)
09-20-2017, 09:45 AM
#5
If tour windshield fogs up, You have a heatercore leak. if you are diy, search for "fastguy method"
In the process of changing the heatercore you will be carefully removing the blend door actuator motor and you can test it to see if it is working then. m
If you go the fastguy route, remove the passenger side seat, grab a full set of 1/4" sockets and wobbly extensions. You will wrap tape around the wobbly so its not so floppy. you will use tape to keep the hidden screws in the socket and you will buy a cheap mechanics mirror set for 5$ to see the hidden screw. You will be working on your back. There is a diagonal cross brace that needs to come out and i had to grind down one socket (i think it was either a 10mm or a 13mm to get it to fit...you will know what i mean when u get in there)
Do not buy the spectra brand from rock auto as it did not fit, the pipes were not bent the exact same as oem and my plastic heater box shroud had to be modifed (ie, cut) to make it work which really sucked. Search for brands that worked.
Remove the passenger seat.
edit: for removing the rubber from the engine compartment pipes i cut them in the middle then made a slit (carefully) and peeled them off. i then bought a couple pieces of hose to replace with new hose. they are not the same sizes!! take the piece you cut to the auto store and sie it up to match. ise the fresh cut face which will be accurate in size, not the part that is deformed over the pipe nipples.
edit 2: plan on a full day unless you are young and very agile.
In the process of changing the heatercore you will be carefully removing the blend door actuator motor and you can test it to see if it is working then. m
If you go the fastguy route, remove the passenger side seat, grab a full set of 1/4" sockets and wobbly extensions. You will wrap tape around the wobbly so its not so floppy. you will use tape to keep the hidden screws in the socket and you will buy a cheap mechanics mirror set for 5$ to see the hidden screw. You will be working on your back. There is a diagonal cross brace that needs to come out and i had to grind down one socket (i think it was either a 10mm or a 13mm to get it to fit...you will know what i mean when u get in there)
Do not buy the spectra brand from rock auto as it did not fit, the pipes were not bent the exact same as oem and my plastic heater box shroud had to be modifed (ie, cut) to make it work which really sucked. Search for brands that worked.
Remove the passenger seat.
edit: for removing the rubber from the engine compartment pipes i cut them in the middle then made a slit (carefully) and peeled them off. i then bought a couple pieces of hose to replace with new hose. they are not the same sizes!! take the piece you cut to the auto store and sie it up to match. ise the fresh cut face which will be accurate in size, not the part that is deformed over the pipe nipples.
edit 2: plan on a full day unless you are young and very agile.
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 09-20-2017 at 11:02 AM.
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Navyfootball70 (09-20-2017)
09-20-2017, 10:45 AM
#6
Welcome to the forum navyfootball70. Assuming your new vette is not your primary car, getting things fixed are not much of a problem since it is 27 years old. Once they are fixed and you can just get in and go, that's when you really enjoy it. Get any safety issues taken care of first.
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Navyfootball70 (09-20-2017)
09-20-2017, 11:22 AM
#7
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Welcome. looks like you have gotten some good reply's. 
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Navyfootball70 (09-20-2017)
09-20-2017, 01:03 PM
#8
Yikes!
If tour windshield fogs up, You have a heatercore leak. if you are diy, search for "fastguy method"
In the process of changing the heatercore you will be carefully removing the blend door actuator motor and you can test it to see if it is working then. m
If you go the fastguy route, remove the passenger side seat, grab a full set of 1/4" sockets and wobbly extensions. You will wrap tape around the wobbly so its not so floppy. you will use tape to keep the hidden screws in the socket and you will buy a cheap mechanics mirror set for 5$ to see the hidden screw. You will be working on your back. There is a diagonal cross brace that needs to come out and i had to grind down one socket (i think it was either a 10mm or a 13mm to get it to fit...you will know what i mean when u get in
Do not buy the spectra brand from rock auto as it did not fit, the pipes were not bent the exact same as oem and my plastic heater box shroud had to be modifed (ie, cut) to make it work which really sucked. Search for brands that worked.
Remove the passenger seat.
edit: for removing the rubber from the engine compartment pipes i cut them in the middle then made a slit (carefully) and peeled them off. i then bought a couple pieces of hose to replace with new hose. they are not the same sizes!! take the piece you cut to the auto store and sie it up to match. ise the fresh cut face which will be accurate in size, not the part that is deformed over the pipe nipples.
edit 2: plan on a full day unless you are young and very agile.
In the process of changing the heatercore you will be carefully removing the blend door actuator motor and you can test it to see if it is working then. m
If you go the fastguy route, remove the passenger side seat, grab a full set of 1/4" sockets and wobbly extensions. You will wrap tape around the wobbly so its not so floppy. you will use tape to keep the hidden screws in the socket and you will buy a cheap mechanics mirror set for 5$ to see the hidden screw. You will be working on your back. There is a diagonal cross brace that needs to come out and i had to grind down one socket (i think it was either a 10mm or a 13mm to get it to fit...you will know what i mean when u get in
Do not buy the spectra brand from rock auto as it did not fit, the pipes were not bent the exact same as oem and my plastic heater box shroud had to be modifed (ie, cut) to make it work which really sucked. Search for brands that worked.
Remove the passenger seat.
edit: for removing the rubber from the engine compartment pipes i cut them in the middle then made a slit (carefully) and peeled them off. i then bought a couple pieces of hose to replace with new hose. they are not the same sizes!! take the piece you cut to the auto store and sie it up to match. ise the fresh cut face which will be accurate in size, not the part that is deformed over the pipe nipples.
edit 2: plan on a full day unless you are young and very agile.
Do you really think heater core? No wet floorboards. It only seems to fog up on high humidity mornings... or rainy days. Once the sun is out and hitting it, no issues. I work 3rd shift, so I have to check the weather before I drive it. I don't want to get stuck at work waiting on the sun!
So, this blend door thing is under the passenger dash. At least you didn't say the dash has to come out. That worried me.
09-20-2017, 01:05 PM
#9
Racer
Hey Navy, welcome. I also own a 89, and have had lots of fun working on her. That sweet smell is your heater core leaking, causing the fog issue. It actually is not hard at all to replace. I just did mine and it took under 3 hours total.
One thing I advise, which might make some cringe, is don't bother with the top screws. They are very hard to reach. I took out the bottom ones with no problem, and just pulled the cover off breaking the top part where the screws were, my thinking was that it's not sealed, so when it went back together there might only be a small gap where it broke. I was correct. You could also put duct tape on it to cover. Doing this will make it easier and save time IMO.
I also did a lot work on the top end of the motor, added chrome covers, roller rockers, and painted the rest to make it look faster lol.
One thing I advise, which might make some cringe, is don't bother with the top screws. They are very hard to reach. I took out the bottom ones with no problem, and just pulled the cover off breaking the top part where the screws were, my thinking was that it's not sealed, so when it went back together there might only be a small gap where it broke. I was correct. You could also put duct tape on it to cover. Doing this will make it easier and save time IMO.
I also did a lot work on the top end of the motor, added chrome covers, roller rockers, and painted the rest to make it look faster lol.
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Navyfootball70 (09-20-2017)
09-20-2017, 01:09 PM
#10
09-20-2017, 01:15 PM
#11
Hey Navy, welcome. I also own a 89, and have had lots of fun working on her. That sweet smell is your heater core leaking, causing the fog issue. It actually is not hard at all to replace. I just did mine and it took under 3 hours total.
One thing I advise, which might make some cringe, is don't bother with the top screws. They are very hard to reach. I took out the bottom ones with no problem, and just pulled the cover off breaking the top part where the screws were, my thinking was that it's not sealed, so when it went back together there might only be a small gap where it broke. I was correct. You could also put duct tape on it to cover. Doing this will make it easier and save time IMO.
I also did a lot work on the top end of the motor, added chrome covers, roller rockers, and painted the rest to make it look faster lol.
One thing I advise, which might make some cringe, is don't bother with the top screws. They are very hard to reach. I took out the bottom ones with no problem, and just pulled the cover off breaking the top part where the screws were, my thinking was that it's not sealed, so when it went back together there might only be a small gap where it broke. I was correct. You could also put duct tape on it to cover. Doing this will make it easier and save time IMO.
I also did a lot work on the top end of the motor, added chrome covers, roller rockers, and painted the rest to make it look faster lol.
09-20-2017, 01:18 PM
#12
Welcome to the forum navyfootball70. Assuming your new vette is not your primary car, getting things fixed are not much of a problem since it is 27 years old. Once they are fixed and you can just get in and go, that's when you really enjoy it. Get any safety issues taken care of first.
09-20-2017, 01:24 PM
#13
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1bdvet (09-21-2017)
09-20-2017, 10:45 PM
#16
It's honestly scary to think of replacing the heater core. I can change oil and do basic stuff, but hearing that stresses me out! It's not a matter of not wanting to... it's a matter of sheer ignorance and fear of doing something wrong and it costing more to fix my mess than what it would have originally.
this forum is the shizzle
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Navyfootball70 (09-22-2017)
09-20-2017, 11:13 PM
#17
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2015
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Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
If you want to do work yourself, get an FSM (Field Service Manual) before anything else. You can find these sold via CDROM for less than $40. Lots and lots of info.
I got a Hayes manual as well, its different wording and pics help clarify this and that.
Coolant, it may be leaking a little under the carpet, not enough to make it wet.
Welcome to the C4 family, Live Long and Drive!
I got a Hayes manual as well, its different wording and pics help clarify this and that.
Coolant, it may be leaking a little under the carpet, not enough to make it wet.
Welcome to the C4 family, Live Long and Drive!
Last edited by kael; 09-20-2017 at 11:14 PM. Reason: I hate typos
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Navyfootball70 (09-22-2017)
09-21-2017, 08:15 AM
#18
Team Owner
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U.S. Air Force
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NCM Sinkhole Donor
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Navyfootball70 (09-22-2017)
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Navyfootball70 (09-22-2017)
What he said
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Navyfootball70 (09-22-2017)
