At What Point is it Too Much $$$
09-23-2017, 07:55 PM
#61
Team Owner
#9. The weatherstripping is bad enough that the car "rains" on my head from above if it's wet out, or right after a carwash. I have not yet identified the exact source of water intrusion. It pools on the doorsill near where the window glass and targa top intersect at the front. I might just look into a black RTV. I don't know what RTV means, but I assume it's some kind of sealant.
Last edited by aklim; 09-23-2017 at 07:56 PM.
09-23-2017, 09:27 PM
#62
Melting Slicks
That is one aspect of CF that bothers me and I would ignore it if I were you.
It is unique to corvette owners. I don't see the mustang or the third gen, or other groups of car enthusiasts, self flagellating like this.
It appears to just be us and at some point you kinda scratch your head and wonder why some of the serial complainers own C4's in the first place?
So, I would ignore it. The car is for you and how you feel about it is the only thing that matters.
In fairness, this is a forum for corvettes with a lot of newbies (seemingly noobs to cars, repair and the whole bit) stopping by regularly, often with problems. I can see why they do that, because the C4 is a different animal and it is confusing. They want experienced people to help them.
But the rest of the members aren't posting about problems because they're busy driving.
I did all the major work on mine and it's been fine. It is a very reliable car. It's just that I bought a 32 YO piece of junk and it took some massaging to get it back into working order. No different than any other older vehicle.
I wish you the best! I am concerned that the negativity here is a turnoff to new enthusiasts.
I wish they were excited about their rides and learning about them and fixing them as opposed to being scared and uncertain about them. Feeling stupid for having purchased them. Feeling as though there is too much to learn and giving up..
Regards.
It is unique to corvette owners. I don't see the mustang or the third gen, or other groups of car enthusiasts, self flagellating like this.
It appears to just be us and at some point you kinda scratch your head and wonder why some of the serial complainers own C4's in the first place?
So, I would ignore it. The car is for you and how you feel about it is the only thing that matters.
In fairness, this is a forum for corvettes with a lot of newbies (seemingly noobs to cars, repair and the whole bit) stopping by regularly, often with problems. I can see why they do that, because the C4 is a different animal and it is confusing. They want experienced people to help them.
But the rest of the members aren't posting about problems because they're busy driving.
I did all the major work on mine and it's been fine. It is a very reliable car. It's just that I bought a 32 YO piece of junk and it took some massaging to get it back into working order. No different than any other older vehicle.
I wish you the best! I am concerned that the negativity here is a turnoff to new enthusiasts.
I wish they were excited about their rides and learning about them and fixing them as opposed to being scared and uncertain about them. Feeling stupid for having purchased them. Feeling as though there is too much to learn and giving up..
Regards.
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confab (09-23-2017)
09-23-2017, 10:30 PM
#63
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Greater Cincinnati Area.
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Thanks.. But I feel like I didn't address the OP's bullet points.
It was a comment about his general opinion of CF bumming him out and making him uncertain. And that bothers me.
Bullet points:
1a) In our market, I don't know that 75 hundred is bad for a nice example. (And I have looked)
1) Get a new mechanic and use the felpro blue, silicone gaskets.
2) Zip ties, epoxy, etc.
3) Tires are a necessary investment. I got a set from Walmart for a reasonable price. (Although they had to be shipped in)
4) If the electrical were bad, you'd have no dash. It has its own power supply. (I am running one of batee's and it works fine.) You probably just need bulbs.
5) Don't freak. Diagnose it. And you can do it all in your driveway. Narrow the problem and fix it. It's probably not as bad as you think.
6) Exhaust tips typically clamp on and they're cosmetic items. Not a big deal. 15 minutes in the driveway. Amazon has anything you want or need.
7) The EGR is a biggie and it is cheap, but labor intensive. IMO: use it as an excuse to do the job yourself and replace injectors at the same time. John at FIC will hook you up.
8) About what you said.
9) Most have bad weatherstrip at this point. Run a water hose over it to find the problem.
I got a whole kit from Wilcox (He's a forum vendor) and the quality is good. He even has install videos. It's not hard at all. He runs specials all the time. I think I paid 400 for mine? Tip: Use a wooden paint mixer stick to press it into the grooves.
10) Seriously doubt this is your transmission.. Don't even worry about it. It's not how 4L60's die.
But, assuming the worst? I own a transmission shop an hour and a half from you, and the cost is 1495. Includes upgrades and it doesn't matter how bad it is broke. Built to perfection, it will outlast you.
The things you describe are common issues. It's part of owning a C4.
Again, best wishes.
It was a comment about his general opinion of CF bumming him out and making him uncertain. And that bothers me.
Bullet points:
1a) In our market, I don't know that 75 hundred is bad for a nice example. (And I have looked)
1) Get a new mechanic and use the felpro blue, silicone gaskets.
2) Zip ties, epoxy, etc.
3) Tires are a necessary investment. I got a set from Walmart for a reasonable price. (Although they had to be shipped in)
4) If the electrical were bad, you'd have no dash. It has its own power supply. (I am running one of batee's and it works fine.) You probably just need bulbs.
5) Don't freak. Diagnose it. And you can do it all in your driveway. Narrow the problem and fix it. It's probably not as bad as you think.
6) Exhaust tips typically clamp on and they're cosmetic items. Not a big deal. 15 minutes in the driveway. Amazon has anything you want or need.
7) The EGR is a biggie and it is cheap, but labor intensive. IMO: use it as an excuse to do the job yourself and replace injectors at the same time. John at FIC will hook you up.
8) About what you said.
9) Most have bad weatherstrip at this point. Run a water hose over it to find the problem.
I got a whole kit from Wilcox (He's a forum vendor) and the quality is good. He even has install videos. It's not hard at all. He runs specials all the time. I think I paid 400 for mine? Tip: Use a wooden paint mixer stick to press it into the grooves.
10) Seriously doubt this is your transmission.. Don't even worry about it. It's not how 4L60's die.
But, assuming the worst? I own a transmission shop an hour and a half from you, and the cost is 1495. Includes upgrades and it doesn't matter how bad it is broke. Built to perfection, it will outlast you.
The things you describe are common issues. It's part of owning a C4.
Again, best wishes.
Last edited by confab; 09-23-2017 at 11:03 PM.
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mic575 (09-23-2017)
09-23-2017, 11:03 PM
#64
Instructor
Thanks.. But I feel like I didn't address the OP's bullet points.
It was a comment about his general opinion of CF bumming him out and making him uncertain. And that bothers me.
Bullet points:
1a) In our market, I don't know that 75 hundred is bad for a nice example. (And I have looked)
1) Get a new mechanic and use the felpro blue, silicone gaskets.
2) Zip ties, epoxy, etc.
3) Tires are a necessary investment. I got a set from Walmart for a reasonable price. (Although they had to be shipped in)
4) If the electrical were bad, you'd have no dash. It has its own power supply. (I am running one of batee's and it works fine.) You probably just need bulbs.
5) Don't freak. Diagnose it. And you can do it all in your driveway. Narrow the problem and fix it. It's probably not as bad as you think.
6) Exhaust tips typically clamp on and they're cosmetic items. Not a big deal. 15 minutes in the driveway. Amazon has anything you want or need.
7) The EGR is a biggie and it is cheap, but labor intensive. IMO: use it as an excuse to do the job yourself and replace injectors at the same time. John at FIC will hook you up.
8) About what you said.
9) Most have bad weatherstrip at this point. I got a whole kit from Wilcox (He's a forum vendor) and the quality is good. He even has install videos. It's not hard at all. He runs specials all the time. I think I paid 400 for mine? Tip: Use a wooden paint mixer stick to press it into the grooves.
10) Seriously doubt this is your transmission.. Don't even worry about it. It's not how 4L60's die.
But, assuming the worst? I own a transmission shop an hour and a half from you, and the cost is 1495. Includes upgrades and it doesn't matter how bad it is broke. Built to perfection, it will outlast you.
The things you describe are common issues. It's part of owning a C4.
Again, best wishes.
It was a comment about his general opinion of CF bumming him out and making him uncertain. And that bothers me.
Bullet points:
1a) In our market, I don't know that 75 hundred is bad for a nice example. (And I have looked)
1) Get a new mechanic and use the felpro blue, silicone gaskets.
2) Zip ties, epoxy, etc.
3) Tires are a necessary investment. I got a set from Walmart for a reasonable price. (Although they had to be shipped in)
4) If the electrical were bad, you'd have no dash. It has its own power supply. (I am running one of batee's and it works fine.) You probably just need bulbs.
5) Don't freak. Diagnose it. And you can do it all in your driveway. Narrow the problem and fix it. It's probably not as bad as you think.
6) Exhaust tips typically clamp on and they're cosmetic items. Not a big deal. 15 minutes in the driveway. Amazon has anything you want or need.
7) The EGR is a biggie and it is cheap, but labor intensive. IMO: use it as an excuse to do the job yourself and replace injectors at the same time. John at FIC will hook you up.
8) About what you said.
9) Most have bad weatherstrip at this point. I got a whole kit from Wilcox (He's a forum vendor) and the quality is good. He even has install videos. It's not hard at all. He runs specials all the time. I think I paid 400 for mine? Tip: Use a wooden paint mixer stick to press it into the grooves.
10) Seriously doubt this is your transmission.. Don't even worry about it. It's not how 4L60's die.
But, assuming the worst? I own a transmission shop an hour and a half from you, and the cost is 1495. Includes upgrades and it doesn't matter how bad it is broke. Built to perfection, it will outlast you.
The things you describe are common issues. It's part of owning a C4.
Again, best wishes.
OP, as I mentioned earlier, listen to the folks on here, they're awesome.
I just hope they are still around once I have my C4
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confab (09-23-2017)
09-24-2017, 12:10 AM
#65
Le Mans Master
....#4. I bought new bulbs already, as I'm 99% sure that's the issue. I wonder how you can change the bulbs "from the front in about 15 minutes" ? Everything I've read is dash disassembly, unscrewing the back of the unit, and removing/replacing bulbs. Which I imagine will take me a good chunk of time.....
I just looked and found an old package of lights. They are #882 bulbs. They are little 5 watt halogen bulbs. I think they are about $30 each at the dealer, but I got them at Advance Auto parts for about $8 each a couple years ago. I didn't shop around too much. They didn't have them in stock so I had to wait about 2 days. You may find them at various part stores.
The bulbs are halogens, so don't touch the bulb with your fingers. The bulbs may come with a twist-in socket base that twists into the back of the instrument cluster. To do that the instrument cluster has to come completely out.
The easier way is to pull the bulb out of the twist-in socket base from the front without taking out the whole cluster. The bulbs just pull straight out and push back in, so it is not breaking them or the socket base.
When you take the front trim plate off the instrument panel (just a few screws and then carefully manuver the plate out away from the panel) you can see there are some small snap-in covers over the place where the lights are. These covers are a bright metal and are under an inch diameter.
Once the covers are out, I use a small piece of electical shrink tubing. (Radio Shack sells a selection for a buck or two). I push the shrink tubing over the bulb. Take a small pliers like a needle nose and gently grip the outside the shrink tube on the bulb and pull the bulb out straight out without twisting. (don't grip very hard or you may break the bulb.)
Once the bulb is out, put some of the shrink tube over a new bulb and use the tubing to hold the bulb and guide the bulb into the existing twist-in socket base. The tubing will not hold the bulb well enough to push it all the way in by itself. You will need to only line it up and start it with the tubing and then push with your finger or the pliers (over the shrink tube so you don't touch it). Once it is in place, pull the tubing off. Replace the snap in cover. You can turn on the lights to make sure it lights.
Repeat the same procedure for the others. I think there are 4 bulbs.
Replace the front trim plate.
Done.
There are a lot of words, but the whole thing is only about 15 minutes and pretty easy. Just be cautious, take your time, and not break the bulbs. I have replaced 6 or 8 of them on 3 cars this way.
Good luck,
....#6. The exhaust sometimes blows white smoke upon startup. It used to be really bad before I had the mechanic try to fix the valve cover gasket. When I'm sitting at a stop light I can smell my car and it is noxious. Like, "oh I can tell it shouldn't be smelling like this" bad.....
If your valve covers are leaking, they will get oil on the exhaust manifolds and burn. That makes a strong oil burn smell that you can smell frequently and under many conditions.
I would try fixing the valve covers first and see if the smell is gone. I would also try the downshift/engine braking to see if that produces light colored smoke.
I would also watch my oil level to see if it is using oil.
...#9. The weatherstripping is bad enough that the car "rains" on my head from above if it's wet out, or right after a car wash. I have not yet identified the exact source of water intrusion. It pools on the door sill near where the window glass and targa top intersect at the front. I might just look into a black RTV. I don't know what RTV means, but I assume it's some kind of sealant.
If your leaks are quite bad, this may not work for you. However, some tears or very small missing "chunks" of weatherstrip can be built up with it, it may help. Just make sure to let it cure before closing windows or putting the top on, since you don't want to glue the car shut.
Good luck.
09-24-2017, 07:44 PM
#66
QCvette thanks for the further explanation of the bulb replacement procedure. I will try that before I try dismantling everything. I'm pretty sure I bought LED replacement bulbs instead of the original halogen. Hopefully this doesn't come back to bite me in the *** but I have a friend who had good results after switching to LED's.
Today I did the air intake housing unit. Wasn't too bad to do. One of the ***** holding the housing piece on was very stuck and I had a bitch of a time getting it off... all done though, and new filter. Car was breathing a lot better and generally a little quieter. I felt easier acceleration too.
Unfortunately my low coolant light came on while driving. Erg.... I had the water pump replaced earlier this year. I must have a coolant leak somewhere. Engine bay smells faintly sweet like coolant. Tomorrow I will add some to the radiator. What's the most common cause of a coolant leak? Bad hoses? My grandpa may be able to help me identify the leak.
I'm hoping to do the valve cover gaskets with him tomorrow or Tuesday so that the oil seepage stops. I need the car to stop leaking so I can park it in the garage this winter. I need to get the leaky tire looked at. I want this thing READY to drive to the Corvette museum here in a week or so. I've put off going until I actually had a Corvette to drive.
Today I did the air intake housing unit. Wasn't too bad to do. One of the ***** holding the housing piece on was very stuck and I had a bitch of a time getting it off... all done though, and new filter. Car was breathing a lot better and generally a little quieter. I felt easier acceleration too.
Unfortunately my low coolant light came on while driving. Erg.... I had the water pump replaced earlier this year. I must have a coolant leak somewhere. Engine bay smells faintly sweet like coolant. Tomorrow I will add some to the radiator. What's the most common cause of a coolant leak? Bad hoses? My grandpa may be able to help me identify the leak.
I'm hoping to do the valve cover gaskets with him tomorrow or Tuesday so that the oil seepage stops. I need the car to stop leaking so I can park it in the garage this winter. I need to get the leaky tire looked at. I want this thing READY to drive to the Corvette museum here in a week or so. I've put off going until I actually had a Corvette to drive.
09-24-2017, 08:12 PM
#67
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Maybe a new thread to start the repairs?
I suggesst you do some homework and read the stickies at the top.
Lots of info about the common problems you will encounter, and the fixes.
I suggesst you do some homework and read the stickies at the top.
Lots of info about the common problems you will encounter, and the fixes.
09-25-2017, 09:29 AM
#68
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2014
Location: Downers Grove Illinois
Posts: 2,474
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QCvette thanks for the further explanation of the bulb replacement procedure. I will try that before I try dismantling everything. I'm pretty sure I bought LED replacement bulbs instead of the original halogen. Hopefully this doesn't come back to bite me in the *** but I have a friend who had good results after switching to LED's.
Today I did the air intake housing unit. Wasn't too bad to do. One of the ***** holding the housing piece on was very stuck and I had a bitch of a time getting it off... all done though, and new filter. Car was breathing a lot better and generally a little quieter. I felt easier acceleration too.
Unfortunately my low coolant light came on while driving. Erg.... I had the water pump replaced earlier this year. I must have a coolant leak somewhere. Engine bay smells faintly sweet like coolant. Tomorrow I will add some to the radiator. What's the most common cause of a coolant leak? Bad hoses? My grandpa may be able to help me identify the leak.
I'm hoping to do the valve cover gaskets with him tomorrow or Tuesday so that the oil seepage stops. I need the car to stop leaking so I can park it in the garage this winter. I need to get the leaky tire looked at. I want this thing READY to drive to the Corvette museum here in a week or so. I've put off going until I actually had a Corvette to drive.
Today I did the air intake housing unit. Wasn't too bad to do. One of the ***** holding the housing piece on was very stuck and I had a bitch of a time getting it off... all done though, and new filter. Car was breathing a lot better and generally a little quieter. I felt easier acceleration too.
Unfortunately my low coolant light came on while driving. Erg.... I had the water pump replaced earlier this year. I must have a coolant leak somewhere. Engine bay smells faintly sweet like coolant. Tomorrow I will add some to the radiator. What's the most common cause of a coolant leak? Bad hoses? My grandpa may be able to help me identify the leak.
I'm hoping to do the valve cover gaskets with him tomorrow or Tuesday so that the oil seepage stops. I need the car to stop leaking so I can park it in the garage this winter. I need to get the leaky tire looked at. I want this thing READY to drive to the Corvette museum here in a week or so. I've put off going until I actually had a Corvette to drive.
When you put in the LED bulbs if they don't light up then you have to put them in the opposite way. Unlike incandescent bulbs the LEDs have a polarity that is correct and work one way and not the other.
09-27-2017, 02:33 PM
#69
Had a coolant leak in my '87 recently, was a broken thirty year old hose clamp, the one holding the hose to the water pump.
Once I had everything out of the way, and could get a good look at it, it was obvious where the leak was coming from. So, a fifty cent piece of hardware, and an hour's work later, fixed. Hope yours is as easy.
Once I had everything out of the way, and could get a good look at it, it was obvious where the leak was coming from. So, a fifty cent piece of hardware, and an hour's work later, fixed. Hope yours is as easy.
Last edited by hilflos; 09-27-2017 at 02:33 PM.
09-29-2017, 07:14 AM
#70
Racer
I bought a 87 last year, that was told to me, it sat in a field for 7 years before the PO got it. His wife said noway he was putting that kind of money into it. I drove it before I bought it. I looked under it, no rusted out floors. Engine ran. No oil spot under it. Paid 2.7k.
So far I have got around 4k into it. New Ac system, new tires, repainted the inside door panels, new rubber side window sweeps, new sway bar bushings, new windshield, new floor mats, and rear mat, all interior lights are LED, new wiring for under hood lights, new air dam under front, tint front and back, new SS brake lines, All fluids changed after I got it (all synthetic now), new fan temp switch, new plug wires, exhaust from a C5 made to fit under it, rear view mirror from a C5, And last but not last, a set of 05 C6 seats (only paid 7 bills for)which I have made fit, and doing the wiring right now.
If you have time and can drive it along the way, have fun. I knew that going in.
So far I have got around 4k into it. New Ac system, new tires, repainted the inside door panels, new rubber side window sweeps, new sway bar bushings, new windshield, new floor mats, and rear mat, all interior lights are LED, new wiring for under hood lights, new air dam under front, tint front and back, new SS brake lines, All fluids changed after I got it (all synthetic now), new fan temp switch, new plug wires, exhaust from a C5 made to fit under it, rear view mirror from a C5, And last but not last, a set of 05 C6 seats (only paid 7 bills for)which I have made fit, and doing the wiring right now.
If you have time and can drive it along the way, have fun. I knew that going in.
09-29-2017, 11:23 AM
#71
Safety Car
On the bulb issue, there's another thread recently I posted to. The 4 bulbs accessible from the front, there are 2 types GM put in. What you use depends on what you have unless you want to disassemble the cluster and change the socket on the inside. In that thread I posted a picture of a pair of bulb pliers I picked up off ebay. Easy to fit through the hole to extract or insert the bulbs.
Sounds like the OP is going to work on the car, so here's some suggestions:
How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. Start with one item and fix it before going onto something else.
Check out your adult ed classes, some have classes in auto mechanics.
Check your local vo-tech schools, some have adult classes.
Check out your local Corvette clubs, many have references to places that know what they're doing on Vettes. Some have members that will help others with their cars.
Post questions on this site. Include complete info and pictures if possible. Remember not every person or answer may be from an authority. It takes time to weed the good from the bad.
Get yourself a FSM along with some basic tools. Know some tools can be loaned or rented at times for one-time use.
There are a lot of useful videos on youtube and on selected vendor sites. Find your problem then start reading and watching first. Decide if it's something you feel you can do and come back with any additional questions.
It's a good feeling to know you fixed this or that and didn't have to pay and arm-and-leg to someone else to fix those little things. The money you save doing things yourself you in turn can invest in additional tools and it just keeps going.
Good luck.
Found the thread with the bulb pliers in it: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-learn.html
Sounds like the OP is going to work on the car, so here's some suggestions:
How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. Start with one item and fix it before going onto something else.
Check out your adult ed classes, some have classes in auto mechanics.
Check your local vo-tech schools, some have adult classes.
Check out your local Corvette clubs, many have references to places that know what they're doing on Vettes. Some have members that will help others with their cars.
Post questions on this site. Include complete info and pictures if possible. Remember not every person or answer may be from an authority. It takes time to weed the good from the bad.
Get yourself a FSM along with some basic tools. Know some tools can be loaned or rented at times for one-time use.
There are a lot of useful videos on youtube and on selected vendor sites. Find your problem then start reading and watching first. Decide if it's something you feel you can do and come back with any additional questions.
It's a good feeling to know you fixed this or that and didn't have to pay and arm-and-leg to someone else to fix those little things. The money you save doing things yourself you in turn can invest in additional tools and it just keeps going.
Good luck.
Found the thread with the bulb pliers in it: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-learn.html
Last edited by hcbph; 09-29-2017 at 11:28 AM.
09-29-2017, 12:39 PM
#72
I am pleased to see so many responses continuing in my thread. I wish I could rename the title so it's more like "my ongoing project." You guys must be as crazy about your car(s) as I am. I am feeling confident about working on the car myself (or with some supervised help). In a perfect world, I would have paid about $1,500 less for the car.
--UPDATES--
1) Leaky valve cover gasket DONE. wasn't very hard with supervision (driver's side). If passenger side goes bad, looks like I have more parts to get out of the way first. have it parked in a new spot today to ensure oil has stopped leaking.
2) Air housing assembly DONE. Also wasn't very difficult, just some very stuck-on screw caps.
3) Only have 3 matching tires -- mismatched, newer tire keeps going flat. will have that checked out and patched until next season. hope it's not the wheel itself. will buy all new tires with tax refund.
4) Digital dash is only 1/2 on -- have a lot of info on replacing these now. probably will not attempt until this winter when car is stored. I can still (sorta) see the speedometer.
5) Suspension is really wobbly -- anybody ever taken their car to a place like Car-X? I drove past one, it says they'll check out suspension and other related bits. I imagine it needs the whole basic works: struts, shocks, sway bars, bushings, and alignment...
6) Exhaust tips are flaking the metal finish -- I will probably just take a wire brush to these for now to remove peeling finish.
7) Bad EGR valve -- the "SES" light hasn't come on lately. I checked the code before and this is the cause. seems to be very intermittent. putting off for now...
8) Ripped driver seat -- I just found some pre-mounted "leather-like" seats for about $750. Not a bad deal. May also be a tax refund expense, or a winter project if I decide to reupholster the seats with OEM style leather. Also watching ebay for any matching OEM seats randomly appearing.
9) Bad weatherstripping -- Just washed the car yesterday and it barely got any water inside. I was light with the hose. Seems to really only be a problem when torrential force of water hits the car. I will try sealing up cracked bits this winter to make current weatherstripping more effective.
10) Transmission "clunk" -- common consensus indicates this may not be the transmission itself. I will be checking the trans fluid this weekend. I bought new Dextron VI (or IV?) fluid from auto parts store. Not sure what's in my car.... don't really want to siphon out the old so might just take a chance by topping off with new
assuming it IS low fluid. Research also suggests transmission mount or u-joints.
I feel like I definitely have a "plan of attack" now after discussing the problems with you guys. My grandpa is advising that I don't dump too much money into the car and instead spend that cash toward a cleaner, better-kept car. I haven't decided where I'm at on that.
I like the idea of taking some adult-ed mechanics classes to learn more.
--UPDATES--
1) Leaky valve cover gasket DONE. wasn't very hard with supervision (driver's side). If passenger side goes bad, looks like I have more parts to get out of the way first. have it parked in a new spot today to ensure oil has stopped leaking.
2) Air housing assembly DONE. Also wasn't very difficult, just some very stuck-on screw caps.
3) Only have 3 matching tires -- mismatched, newer tire keeps going flat. will have that checked out and patched until next season. hope it's not the wheel itself. will buy all new tires with tax refund.
4) Digital dash is only 1/2 on -- have a lot of info on replacing these now. probably will not attempt until this winter when car is stored. I can still (sorta) see the speedometer.
5) Suspension is really wobbly -- anybody ever taken their car to a place like Car-X? I drove past one, it says they'll check out suspension and other related bits. I imagine it needs the whole basic works: struts, shocks, sway bars, bushings, and alignment...
6) Exhaust tips are flaking the metal finish -- I will probably just take a wire brush to these for now to remove peeling finish.
7) Bad EGR valve -- the "SES" light hasn't come on lately. I checked the code before and this is the cause. seems to be very intermittent. putting off for now...
8) Ripped driver seat -- I just found some pre-mounted "leather-like" seats for about $750. Not a bad deal. May also be a tax refund expense, or a winter project if I decide to reupholster the seats with OEM style leather. Also watching ebay for any matching OEM seats randomly appearing.
9) Bad weatherstripping -- Just washed the car yesterday and it barely got any water inside. I was light with the hose. Seems to really only be a problem when torrential force of water hits the car. I will try sealing up cracked bits this winter to make current weatherstripping more effective.
10) Transmission "clunk" -- common consensus indicates this may not be the transmission itself. I will be checking the trans fluid this weekend. I bought new Dextron VI (or IV?) fluid from auto parts store. Not sure what's in my car.... don't really want to siphon out the old so might just take a chance by topping off with new
assuming it IS low fluid. Research also suggests transmission mount or u-joints. I feel like I definitely have a "plan of attack" now after discussing the problems with you guys. My grandpa is advising that I don't dump too much money into the car and instead spend that cash toward a cleaner, better-kept car. I haven't decided where I'm at on that.
I like the idea of taking some adult-ed mechanics classes to learn more.
09-29-2017, 03:23 PM
#73
Melting Slicks
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I put a set of "leather like" seat covers from rock auto on mine. Completely happy with them and it's not hard to do. I think I paid 250 for them? Cleaned up the old foam. Lysol and a piece of sports tape to fill a small hole in the foam. You can't even tell.
Got a weatherstrip kit from Wilcox. He's a forum vendor and the quality seems really good. It's actually harder to get the old stuff off than it is to install the new stuff. You can buy individual pieces from him too, if you don't need a whole kit.
Dextron/Mercon III is fine for your car. Dex 4 retros, so it is fine.. But you don't really need it. Low fluid won't cause a clunk, but it will burn your trans. Some of the guys will siphon some out and replace it, and repeat this process till they have effected a fluid change.
Got a weatherstrip kit from Wilcox. He's a forum vendor and the quality seems really good. It's actually harder to get the old stuff off than it is to install the new stuff. You can buy individual pieces from him too, if you don't need a whole kit.
Dextron/Mercon III is fine for your car. Dex 4 retros, so it is fine.. But you don't really need it. Low fluid won't cause a clunk, but it will burn your trans. Some of the guys will siphon some out and replace it, and repeat this process till they have effected a fluid change.
09-29-2017, 04:55 PM
#74
@confab are your covers the kind that go over the existing leather and seat back? The $750-some I saw are new covers on new foam. I haven't found a good source of leather-like covers that go over the existing seat. I've looked at neoprene ones but don't really want that.
09-29-2017, 08:19 PM
#75
Safety Car
--UPDATES--
5) Suspension is really wobbly -- anybody ever taken their car to a place like Car-X? I drove past one, it says they'll check out suspension and other related bits. I imagine it needs the whole basic works: struts, shocks, sway bars, bushings, and alignment...
10) Transmission "clunk" -- common consensus indicates this may not be the transmission itself. I will be checking the trans fluid this weekend. I bought new Dextron VI (or IV?) fluid from auto parts store. Not sure what's in my car.... don't really want to siphon out the old so might just take a chance by topping off with new assuming it IS low fluid. Research also suggests transmission mount or u-joints.
5) Suspension is really wobbly -- anybody ever taken their car to a place like Car-X? I drove past one, it says they'll check out suspension and other related bits. I imagine it needs the whole basic works: struts, shocks, sway bars, bushings, and alignment...
10) Transmission "clunk" -- common consensus indicates this may not be the transmission itself. I will be checking the trans fluid this weekend. I bought new Dextron VI (or IV?) fluid from auto parts store. Not sure what's in my car.... don't really want to siphon out the old so might just take a chance by topping off with new
assuming it IS low fluid. Research also suggests transmission mount or u-joints. These are likely related, and I would not take it to Car-X or comparable places. If they don't know how to properly lift and support your car they can do more damage than good. If you feel you need to take it to someone, find out who works on Corvettes in your area and pay them to go over the suspension.
Here's lesson one on checking some of your issues if you want to start on some diagnostics yourself.
Take a look for where to support your vehicle while (hint it's a area of pinch-welds inside the marking for the jack ahead of the rear wheel) while your car is elevated with the weight off the wheels.
I use a floor jack, gadget-man jack adapter and a pair of jack stands (see photos). Understand that I have done some upgrades to mine so yours won't look exactly like mine (different parts - same location). Support the car with the weight off the wheels. Take the wheel and grab it at 6 & 12 oclock and shake it. You should not have any play or if you do it's likely wear in your hubs. Play at 3 & 6 can be the toe rods wear. Trailing arms (the ones in front of the hub) and camber rods (top behind the differential to the bottom of the knuckles) can be worn but not easy to check without disassembly. If I had to guess, I'd bet if there is worn parts it's the upper end of the camber rods. You also have 2 bushings on either side of the sway bar that can wear. To check the u-joints, take hold of each side of a u-joint and try to rotate the shaft and see if there's any play in there. If there is then it's time to replace the u-joint(s). Assuming your bushings have been replaced before, there are directions to remove the various parts and replace the bushings with new poly ones.
Like I said earlier, yours likely won't look like mine. The red rods on mine are a performance suspension kit that replaces the trailing arms, camber rods and toe rods and include heim joints instead of bushings.
But the photos at least give you an idea what to look at.
Hope that helps.
Last edited by hcbph; 09-29-2017 at 08:24 PM.
09-29-2017, 09:01 PM
#76
Melting Slicks
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@confab are your covers the kind that go over the existing leather and seat back? The $750-some I saw are new covers on new foam. I haven't found a good source of leather-like covers that go over the existing seat. I've looked at neoprene ones but don't really want that.
They aren't particularly difficult to install. I've never done it before and mine look okay.
09-29-2017, 11:28 PM
#78
Cool, thanks for the photos hcbph. All I know is that the bits and pieces behind my wheels are very funkified with 30+ years of road grime and dust and the once-yellow shock absorbers are now coated in a patina of gray debris.
Thanks for the advice about avoiding Car-X. I've heard the Vette has VERY specific jacking instructions and my car doesn't need any extra abuse to the frame or fiberglass. When I'm financially ready to take this on, I'll contact my local Vette club for a trusted person to do the job.
For reference: on top of the car "jerking" or "clunking" upon entering R or D, the front end wobbles like waves on the ocean when I encounter bumps in the road. The back end sometimes bounces/jerks out of control on rough spots, sometimes resulting in unexpectedly leaving the lane I'm in. At times, the car seems to be holding to the left or right depending on speed + winds. I try diligently to avoid those rough patches in the road, but good luck doing that in Indianapolis.
@confab, My initial plan was to reupholster them myself but wasn't sure if this was incredibly difficult. I definitely don't have any experience in that realm but have watched some videos online of it being done. It would definitely be cheaper than buying the pre-mounted variety. I'm still hoping I happen across some mint-condition red standard seats that someone is discarding for whatever reason.
Thanks for the advice about avoiding Car-X. I've heard the Vette has VERY specific jacking instructions and my car doesn't need any extra abuse to the frame or fiberglass. When I'm financially ready to take this on, I'll contact my local Vette club for a trusted person to do the job.
For reference: on top of the car "jerking" or "clunking" upon entering R or D, the front end wobbles like waves on the ocean when I encounter bumps in the road. The back end sometimes bounces/jerks out of control on rough spots, sometimes resulting in unexpectedly leaving the lane I'm in. At times, the car seems to be holding to the left or right depending on speed + winds. I try diligently to avoid those rough patches in the road, but good luck doing that in Indianapolis.
@confab, My initial plan was to reupholster them myself but wasn't sure if this was incredibly difficult. I definitely don't have any experience in that realm but have watched some videos online of it being done. It would definitely be cheaper than buying the pre-mounted variety. I'm still hoping I happen across some mint-condition red standard seats that someone is discarding for whatever reason.
09-29-2017, 11:40 PM
#79
Melting Slicks
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The job of the shock absorber is to dampen the spring. When it is bad, you bit a bump and the spring continues to oscillate, causing an out of control "wave" behavior.
If you take one end loose and you can compress and extend the shock with no effort whatsoever? They're bad.
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