Tom400CFI

So....why did you start this thread then, asking about how to do it? Seem you already know! Right?



I think you should do the Chrysler ramcharged intake that I suggested earlier. Why screw around with pin-pin 24" runners when you can have BIG, BAD, 30 inchers? Oh yeah!




A paragraph of horse manure




So you think that w/a different intake, your engine will do more work....but work less? Ever taken any physics classes? It's astounding that you claimed that *I* am the one who is "full of it". At least I know what a "hill" is. Yikes.


.

Tom400CFI

You know what you REALLY ought to do OP? You gotta get past the 24" runner length constraint that you've put on yourself. You need to go BIG.

I suggest something with a runner length in the 35-40 inch range! Why not modify the flange of a set of long tube headers, one header for each cylinder head, to use as a long, long, LONG tube runner intake? That thing will have so much low end TOWAK, it'll come out of the hole like a Peterbuilt! Something like these...but with the proper flange of course to bolt up to your LT1 heads;




Now, we have to tame that beast! You said it yourself; not too much high RPM HP. So, we put two, Mikuni VM22 round slide carbs (like this one):


...one on each end of each header collector for your throttle body(s). They flow about 88 CFM each so with a combined total of 176 CFM, you'll come out like a locomotive, then hit a wall at like 2657 RPM....and you'll ALWAYS have vacuum -even at WOT! So your engine will never have to "work hard".

Next, you need to ditch the LT1 heads. They're no good and only capable of meager low end tq. 300 lb-ft at 1000 RPM is for Miata's. You need WAY more, so throw away those torkless, aluminum LT1 heads and get yourself some real tq producing heads; some nice cast iron heads off of an L03 (TBI 305)! Not only will the port-blocking "swirl inducers" make monster low end TOWAK...the smaller combustion chambers will increase your compression, too! Just LOOK at that TORK MONSTAH port!....




I also think that you're really limiting yourself with cam options. Why not really go for the low end TOWAK, and get a cam from a Caterpillar 3208? You could use 7" pushrods in the intake, and 13.4" pushrods on the exhaust, and OMG...the thing would be a STUMP PULLAH!

I think we've found the solution to end all solutions! Tell your engine builder today! I mean....talk about AW-SUM!!!


.

pologreen1

Hold on!!! RECAP

Wants.

-more torque
-keep hood stock
-use special fuels
-keep 5.7 liters
-install TPI LTR intake on lt1 TPI STR intake engine
-keep gears stock
-use extra cats
-ability to drive in all seasons
-better MPG
-keep stock EX manifolds

Now...
-willing to spend a little more for cleaner fuel
-bump compression to 12.5+
-Install 1.5rr's / 1.7rr's
-LT headers

Tom400CFI

Right? I 'love your added "Now..."

Perfect.


Gotta love hitting moving and made up target!

aklim

Almost is a very vague term. You want to shorten it and make everything work out right? That will take money which you won't have.

LT1 can provide more power than you will need. You just need to see if it is the motor that is troublesome or the loose nut behind the wheel.

Check back with the DOT before you start crowing about how good it is as a financial replacement. Let us know when it comes to road tax time, how it can possibly work out.

Yes, we know. Build it and they will come. Kinda like "select the intake and the motor will build around it". Good thing you are not looking for any returns since you probably won't get it just like any returns you get from college.

As defined by what? You using gear 6 for anything but straight cruising?

So put in a stock L98. Problem solved.

aklim

Horse manure can be used as fertilizer although it stinks. That is the difference between his crap and the horse crap.

Even if he uses a flux capacitor? Would that make the difference? What about the Warp Core from the USS Enterprise?

aklim

Cheap probably so he can skip a cup of Starbucks and buy it and emissions legal.

PS It has to come with a large fries or the deal is off.

GREGGPENN

I'm going to go out on a limb and assume you made no effort to contact the eBay who had the LT1 intake recently (that shows it didn't sell).

If you didn't find out if it's still available or consider if you could come up with a way to beg, borrow, or get $800 you are full of it too.

No post means you haven't tried. Hence....

YOU are full of it.

Nah. nah-nah-nah Nah-Nah.

What a rewarding thread this became!

Phoenix'97

You guys were the ones who posted your comments and dragged this thread on. Even when I mention the use of Bio-fuel, scoff and jokes are only to be found without the slightest bit of intrigue for what I am trying to do with a 20+ year old motor design.

You guys push your own notions for my build and relentlessly insist on how this goal of mine is somehow so far fetched that it does not even warrant trying! If I remotely try to explore other avenues to improve upon my motor's performance I am struck down and ridiculed for it. I keep having people demand my budget, but why the hell would I throw out imaginary numbers for a future engine builder to take advantage of and quote such a said figure when the work may be less than my budget.

I want a TPI intake on my LT1 motor, there is no ifs or buts about it! It can be done, it will be done, and while I am at it, I will be using butanol fuel to help me improve upon the motor's performance more by having the engine builder increase the compression ratio to around 12, for the 102 octane iso-butanol I will be using! The end result of the money invested in this project will produce a very lively and well performing motor for my needs, and one that will be plenty of fun to drive around town with a slight bump in fuel economy that may mirror the rather conservative 2014 LT1 fuel mileage for a "V8". So, why spend much more to put a 2014 LT1 into my F-body when I can improve on my older second-gen LT1?

aklim

Would you be intrigued about some scheme that a nuthouse patient dreamed up? I wouldn't.

No, you are not remotely exploring avenues. You are trying to make something that isn't economically feasible work and we aren't even sure that money would be able to make it work.

Yes, the builder will take advantage of you. So why even go to a builder you can't trust? I wouldn't take it to a mechanic I can't trust not to joyride it. As to the budget, perhaps you can find work in the government. They dream a project and find the budget later. Most of us in the real world have a budget set and if the project doesn't fit in the budget, scrap it.

And that is exactly the point. You are plainly insisting on a solution regardless of whether it is economically and practically possible or not, hence the ridicule. What part of that escapes you? Or do you imagine if you draw up a "pie in the sky" idea we will rally around you and try to make it happen? Is that how your mind works?

I suppose the next thing is we all try to create this imaginary pipeline for you to try that too?

My money has it that any money, assuming you will have any at all, which I highly doubt, will be wasted and it won't work or at best work enough to NOT recoup any "investment". See below for the definition of "investment" since I doubt you really undersatand the word. I also suspect your college "investment" is about the same as this project. A waste of time and money.

GREGGPENN

My previous post summarized my answer to this...and likely future posts by you.

You are too lazy to get off your butt and contact someone who MIGHT actually have the intake you so crave...and is so rare.

Paaaa-lease spare us all your whiney woah-is-me dribble. Try doing something for yourself besides wasting our time.

It took me over a year to put together all the parts I used in my build...maybe two years. But each component being talked about was being considered AT THAT TIME. I didn't dribble and whine on about something I MIGHT do in 3 yrs.

With the exception of 3rd gen's better organized tuning section, I didn't "wander" over to a non-relevant forum asking how to fit parts in a Y-body.

This is stupid. I personally don't believe anything about your goals, ambitions, or love-for-TA BS anymore which answers anything unaddressed above.

Go find the intake you want, cut/bend it as necessary. Cut and trim your hood as necessary. You're not asking ANYTHING about specifics regarding the alteration of a longtube intake ... so you are definitely

THE ONLY PERSON WHO'S FULL OF IT!

Phoenix'97

Oh come on, it's not "economically" feasible? Yeah right. This is a custom engine build using fuel that qualifies as race fuel.



Oh, so you know the person I have lined up so well to give me this personal advice? You are full of it.

drcook

Phoenix'97

Why ask about the intake when I am not ready to spend the money on buying it? Remember, I need to get my engine pulled from the bay, get the intake installed, and then have the motor raised back in without the full certainty that it will clear my cowl. Then, I will likely need to get the engine tuned for the new intake, and while I am at it, I am going to need the camshaft for it to make better use of the intake. I don't have the income coming in to make that happen, but thanks for paying attention to my posts!


You need only cease to commenting on this thread and then you won't be wasting your dear time writing up your lovely comments now, will you? Think with that noggin of yours!


Yes, this is stupid, so why keep commenting if you feel this way?!

GREGGPENN

And finally, you answered everyone's question about the existence of your thread(s)!

You should take your own advice.

Kevova

Who's flaming who? The thread has gone all over the place from if I shorten the length of the runners will a tpi fit on my car. To custom engine, heads, manifold, bio fuel, rocket fuel and now everyone is full of it. You are locked into 25 inches of intake runners which are the original length? Some members do your research, locate parts,or information and apparently you fail to follow through on it. No one is going to do it for you. I appears you just want a conversation. IMO either act on this one, meaning start to acquire what is needed, or get a new non tpi subject.

pologreen1

This has been really informative, and maybe you have the ideas but no money/ Maybe you have the knowledge but no money. Maybe you can get with someone that can back your ideas and experiments and then teach the engine builders of the futures thing or 2.

I'm not an engine builder, and I don't want to be, but if I did I would certainly look back to the documented findings of those that do and did.

I know just enough about engines to keep myself out of trouble.

You on the other hand...

If Porsche wins races 5 years in a row, you don't take a Porsche engine and put it in a corvette and expect it to win races do you? Especially if you had to modify it to fir it in.

Your thoughts are very hypothetical and very one dimensional. If you really think about they don't make sense no matter how much you try to make tehm make sense.

Now if the question was 383 or 377? That would really make things interesting for conversation for your goals for torque.

If you don't know 383= stroked 350 and 377 =400 de-stroked.

Just curious by looking at those 2 engines which you think suit your needs better? This might help us understand where your head is at.

Phoenix'97

I hope this thread was informative and intriguing for anyone who can take away something from it.

The question of this thread was, "Can the TPI intake be reduced in height by shortening the runners?" The answer I received was, yes, for the money, but it's performance would be questionable without flow simulations and actual data from the LT1. So, to chop up the TPI intake when I desire to use it for my low end torque production needs defeats the purpose all together. However, it dawned on me that maybe all I need to do is trim my cowl on it's underside just enough to get the TPI intake to clear, and hopefully have enough room for future maintenance, to access the EGR valve and fuel pressure regulator. After finding some pictures with LS1 motors having very large aftermarket supercharger intake manifolds installed and even an LT1 motor with the 10 inch high stealth ram installed with a cut-out of the cowl, I realized that I could squeeze the TPI intake into my engine bay and possibly get it fit under the cowl without any modifications. The only way to know is to mock-it up, thanks to the advice from one of the forum members.

I am not an engine builder either and I AM considering the recommendations of other forum members. However, the question of this thread regarded the TPI intake on my LT1 motor. When I have suggestions that I should put on a TPI miniram or that the stealth ram is a much better intake to use, when I have clearly stated I want the low end torque that the TPI intake was designed to give, we start to run into problems, furthermore when forum members are fighting me on this issue instead of giving me good unbiased reasons for why I should not put a TPI intake on my LT1. I have said again, and again, I don't care about high RPM performance when I don't rev past 5000 RPM when I do "horse around" in my car. Everything is low to mid-range, so what benefit am I gaining from my stock LT1 when this very intake is being swapped with success onto the L98 motor! If L98 owners can safely swap an LT1 intake onto their L98 motors, why the hell can't I safely swap an unaltered TPI intake with larger size TPIS/AS&M runners onto my LT1. Perhaps this will be my next thread in the future...



Funny, I am not building a Porsche nor a car with Porsche performance. I am, however, building my LT1 to behave just like the L98 with a tow/mileage camshaft and accompanying TPI intake which is not all that different from the LT1 intake and components can be interchanged with a fair degree of ease.

pologreen1

Okay, so you don't understand analogies...

The tpi makes less torque overall than lt1. Fact.

TPI makes 15lbft tq more at 3k than the lt1 intake maybe?

You said you want to be below 2k more around 1500rpms. Tpi makes way less torque there.

You show you have no understanding of power curves or torque curves. You are looking at peaks which is maybe one at a less than noticeable range.

If you mod the tpi to fit it will change the performance of it. Not improve.

I think this might make your car dog more than you think considering the gears.

SO... I suggest you find an 89 6spd c4 (same gears, 6 spd, TPI) to ride in that is like yours or if they had a similar models for birds try it.

Also; don't forget to answer the engine size riddle so we can help you better.

Tom400CFI

Hey! Psssst! I don't know if anyone has told you this or not...but the TPI isn't going to increase tq from idle to 2000 RPM. Aaaaand this is where you go awry. You want increased tq at "low to mid"...TPI only increases it at mid...it ain't going to give you what you want in a meaningful way, and that is what many veteran forum members have told you....in a totally unbiased way. They aren't fighting you...they're telling you how it is. You fight/argue/ignore/deflect/change criteria, on and on and on...



^This guy "Gets it". While we can agree that the TPI is down on tq in the low end because of less compression, adding compression (LT1) will bring tq up to/even with the LT1's in the "low end". So where is your gain for all your efforts/expense? There is none -meaningful, anyway. This is good advice...you call it "forum members fighting you on this". Whatever. I can't wait to see the steaming pile of cow dung that you build. With any luck in the process of "building", you'll fix whatever is wrong with your engine now, so it can climb a "hill"...I mean, "incline".