twichy2011

So I've been looking around to see what various people have said about pulling the motor on LT1 vette. I have a 1992 C4 Corvette with a 6 speed in it. I have an oil leak that I think is coming from the hub. The car just clocked 150K miles so its probably time to get around to replacing seals anyways. Im planning on replacing the clutch/flywheel at the time. What is the best way to pull the motor? Separated from the bell housing, or with the bell housing and leaving the trans behind.

Also anything I else should look at replacing while the motor is out of the car?

Thanks,

Connor Coughlin

TorchTarga94

You will have to pull the C-Beam/Trans first. The bellhousing you might be able to leave attached and pull out as one unit.

TorchTarga94

FWIW- You can replace just about every seal with engine in the car, not much harder to do the work provided car is up in the air high enough. I did this a few years ago, it will still leak

ChumpVette

You will need to remove the bellhousing, otherwise it will be a struggle. I also highly advise removing the clutch assembly as well before you yank the motor. Just removes a lot of weight and jagged edges that will shred anything they touch.

As far as doing the seals, way easier on an engine stand and allows you to clean everything. Engine and engine bay.

PLRX

To replace the rear hub seal, you do not have to pull the engine. You'll have to remove the bell housing, transmission, drive-shaft, and c-beam.

You are changing the clutch anyways

twichy2011

Just rust prevention!! Haha

twichy2011

Thanks for the replies guys. I’ll be starting this project in a couple weeks after I finish up with school!

TorchTarga94

That's my thinkin'.

twichy2011

As far as removing the transmission goes, I have the driveshaft removed and the C-beam is ready to go as well. Can I separate the transmission from the bell housing by unbolting the bolts holding the two together and sliding out of the bell housing? I have a feeling its not that simple haha. nothing ever seems to be. Also is there anything to pay close attention to? I have been keeping up with the bolts that go where.

Thanks,

Connor Coughlin

ChumpVette

Make sure you undo the bolts from up top on the shifter boot and push the shifter into third to help give you some room to lower it. There are 5 bolts that hold the trans into the bellhousing. Remove those and make sure your electrical connectors are undone and it will slide out. Take it easy as the ZF is pretty heavy.

Forgot to add, make sure you drain the trans oil to keep from making a mess.

yd328

Go to the hardware store and get a couple of longer bolts for the trans to bell housing. Cut the heads off and use them for guides when you put the trans back in.

Gary

illenema

Hello.
I have a The " happy hooker " and always remove the engine/trans together. Last time needed to remove the Cats.
pops right out.

twichy2011

Have one on the way! Ive been out of town for a couple of days due to the holidays. Hopefully its going to be waiting at the house for me... haha. Right now I have the trans, bell housing, clutch and flywheel removed from the car.

Merry Christmas to everyone by the way!

Connor Coughlin

twichy2011

UPDATE: Got the motor out of the car finally. Been busy with work and the holidays. Will post pictures when I get the chance. Motor has a ton of oil and dirt caked on that will be pressure washed off. All of the exhaust manifold bolts loosened up with minimal effort which surprised me. Currently struggling with the passenger side EGR pipe fitting that couples to the passenger manifold. Thanks for all of the help so far guys!!

Connor Coughlin

Paul Workman

OP: Might as well freshen everything up, including the clutch disc, TO and pilot bearings.

This from Bill Boudreau, at his suggestion, once the C-beam is removed:

I used a floor jack and placed the cup under the balance point with another (bottle jack) under a 2x4 placed across the pan to support the motor while pulling the trans.

It comes out easily enough, but getting it back in you may have trouble if the new disc is not properly centered, and that is critical.

I found those plastic alignment tools pretty much worthless. However, a clutch disc alignment tool from Harbor Freight works 99% perfect. But, even that 1% of error can make stabbing that trans into the clutch a real pain.

So, he suggested I have my wife push in the clutch and hold it in while I stabbed the trans. With the trans sliding on those headless bolts as suggested that trans will slip in like butter. Works like a charm - 4 times now!!

twichy2011

Thanks for the tip! I currently have the trans out of the car and a clutch and flywheel to replace the stock unit that had 150K miles on it. Also got some pacesetter shorty headers to replace the stock manifolds. Cant wait to get the car running again and back on the streets!

Connor Coughlin

twichy2011

Pops giving me a helping hand!











After a decent cleaning. Tomorrow morning starts the front hub seal, timing cover seal, intake manifold gasket, valve cover gaskets, oil pan gaskets, and new headers!

1993C4LT1

Props dude Gonna throw a hotcam in it?

twichy2011

I wish! School and this car has me broke lol. This was done with the goal of getting in front of everything that is breaking lmao

jmgtp

I’ve got this job coming up hopefully next winter for a cam swap so this has been a good thread to see, thanks for adding pics. I’m hoping to be able to pull it with the belljousong still attached but we’ll see. I have the happy hooker as well.