dayle97se

I have a 96 coupe with the base suspension, all stock, and about 67k miles. I would like to replace much of the rear and front suspension components (springs, shock, bushings, spindles, bearings, etc. etc.). I plan on maybe doing the rear suspension myself, but having a shop take care of the front. I would like to replace as much as possible with OEM components, with the exception being those which aren't made anymore (ie: rubber suspension bushings, for example).

Does anyone have, or can point to one online, a list of all the individual parts I would need to order? Also, which of those parts do you recommend I replace versus leave alone. I plan on keeping my C4 for life, and would like to get another 10-20yrs out of its next suspension. And if at all possible, I would like to source quality made-in-USA parts.

Thanks all...

Whaleman

I have the same year and I used Timkin rear bearings units. A little more money but seemed to be well reviewed here. I used Moog rear u-joints. Dan

ColaBear

Why do you think you need to replace the springs? Are yours broken?
GM ***** out three test machines and could not brake the mono springs.

WVZR-1

I don't know that @ 67K miles I'd be as concerned as you are. Regarding spring - you measure the 'trim height' using the FSM dimensions and the're either fine or compromised.

Even the major suspension bushing service @ 67K might be extreme. Sway bar etc yes but control arms etc I ain't so sure. If an inspection of them indicates 'needed' then that's an entirely different issue. A 'just to do' I think extreme.

Mr. Peabody

I've had my 95 for 13 years now and plan to get another 100K out of it.

Unless there is a very specific reason you want to replace the springs, I would not. I've not seen issues of "springs" wearing out. I think that I've see only one post where someone had a spring that was delaminating .... that would justify a replacement

I would replace all of the rubber bushings front and rear as by now most all of them will be warn. Over time I've replaced all 4 of the wheel bearings. I had a small supply of NOS bearings I purchased years ago but they're all gone now. I use Timkins now also. Your shocks will by now probably need to be replaced. NOTE you are not missing anything by having the "base suspension" rather than the FX3 as those parts are one year only and $$ to replace.

I've had good luck with moog tie rod ends. I've used Spicer U-joints (the ones withOUT the grease fittings)

Be sure to get yourself the 2 volume set of the Factory Service Manual for the 96.

jpipx

I did the same to my 95 last winter:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...er-photos.html

While at it I also replaced the rotors, refreshed the calipers and new ceramic brake pads. My opinion on this topic is "in for a penny, in for a pound" when it came to the suspension. The only items that I did not replace bushing in was the batwing and the steering rack.

I also used the poly bushings, haven't had any squeaking issues that are described elsewhere.

Good luck!

Mikes93c4

Save yourself some money and do the front shocks yourself. They're really easy. Literally three bolts. I don't about all the bushings though.

DMITTZ

The front suspension is really no harder than the rear suspension to referbish, maybe even easier. If you can do the rear suspension you can do the front also. So might as well save yourself some money.

What are your goals with the suspension rebuild?

Are you wanting a 'stock type' refresh or looking to add performance?

There are lots of options for suspension parts just let us know your goals.

dayle97se

I could’ve sworn I discovered a small gouge in my front spring, but it’s been a while and I will have to raise the front end and take a photo.

Thanks all for replying with your input/experience. This is all very helpful.

My primary goal is to improve ride quality; that said I’d like a ‘stock-type’ refresh (with one exception being the Banski trailing arms, for improved grip [without sacrificing ride quality, I believe] ). The C4 suspension design is plenty sporty enough for me. I do not track/race my C4 at all, although I do take a tight corner on streets from time to time. My primary concern has to do with my local roads/highways: I live on Long Island/NY, where some of our main roads look like missile testing sites. I sometimes need to slow my C4 down from 65 to 40mph due to an upcoming pothole or bump – if I don’t slow down, the bump is felt very very hard on my a$s with a loud thud. Part of this may be the W/ZR-rated (for high speed) 4yr-old Nitto 555s I have on 17” true ZR-1 wheels, but I don’t think Nitto makes the 555 in anything softer than W-rated in a 17” size. Hope this info helps steer your responses...

MatthewMiller

The Banski trailing arms will probably not sacrifice much ride quality. You might notice more harshness when accelerating hard over sharp bumps/cracks in the road, but that's about it. If you get trailing arm relocation brackets to lower their chassis mounts (i.e., reduce anti-squat), you might even get less harshness when accelerating over bumps.

For all the rest, to retain stock ride quality, I'd advise going with rubber bushing where at all possible. There is nothing wrong with urethane in all locations except the trailing arms, but they will increase NVH over bumps a little bit.

Shocks (dampers) are probably the biggest thing you can change to minimize NVH. I have experience with various versions of Bilsteins as well as the Koni Sports (yellow) single-adjustable. The best ride was delivered by the Konis, even when they were set to about halfway between softest and firmest. They seem to have lower damping rates in compression that Bilsteins, whereas Bilsteins always seem to have pretty high compression rates (even on other cars where I've tried them). I would recommend them as a good street shock for any C4, and they will also serve you well if you keep your stock or near-stock spring rates and decide to try your hand at autocrossing or a track day. I continue to be interested in the Ridetech dampers, which use adjustable Fox monotube internals and sell for ~$700/set. That's a smokin' good deal for that kind of hardware!

For the street with any adjustable dampers on a stock suspension, I'd start them out at lower-rate settings and experiment a bit. BTW, you will find that your perception of ride harshness is much more dependent on the rear suspension than the front, since your butt is almost on top of the rear axle line. So you may find that you want the front shocks set stiffer than the rears. This will also make the car more stable in emergency transitional maneuvers.

I agree with the others who say that if you can tackle the rear suspension, then you should also do the front yourself. You can pocket all the labor money and put it toward good shocks.

dayle97se

I would love to replace my bushings with rubber, but (correct me if I'm wrong here) no one seems to make new rubber suspension bushings for our old C4s.

After reading all your responses so far, I am inclined to start small. Meaning replace only some suspensions parts (the necessary ones), versus one huge overhaul, and then test it out on the road. So here's my next question to everyone: what should I replace first? Considering all my suspension parts are still original 22 yrs old w/ 67k miles. Here's what I had in mind, please let me know what I am missing, or if I have too much here:

- all 4 shocks (with stock B6 Bilstein F: 24-020534 x2 ; R: 24-020541 x2) ….$300 for all 4
- all 4 wheel bearings (Timkin F: 513085 x2 ; R: 513020 x2) ….$1,030 for all 4
- bushings?? but which ones?
- spindles? Yes or no?
- U-joints? Yes or no?
- Sway bar? Or Sway bar bushings? Yes or no?
- front tie-rod ends? (Moog ES2908RL (I think)) ….$40 each x2 = $80

MatthewMiller

I don't know if that's true for all the bushings, but it is true for some. That said, you may be able to track down NOS bushings or entire control arms. If you have to resort to urethane, it won't be the end of the world for NVH. Your shocks are still more important.

I agree with starting smaller. "Quality American made parts" are getting tough to find. Even brands that used to be good like that often are made-in-China crap now. And some made-in-China stuff isn't that bad. It's hard to know.

You can benefit from new or newer dampers in any case. I'd still suggest Koni for your needs, and there have been nearly new sets recently posted in the C4 classifieds for that same $300. With all the money you're going to save compared to your original plan, you can buy new Konis!

For bushings and bearings, you can inspect them and check for play (bearings) or visual degredation (bushings). Only replace those that really need it. C4 wheel bearings are known failure points, but that generally applies mostly to cars that are being driven in competition on very sticky tires. Gently driven street cars may never need new bearings. Save your money unless they have obvious play.

Spindles aren't a wear item - save your money.

Sway bars mostly aren't wear items unless the car was in a wreck. The bushings might be degraded, and you can see this visually. If they look good, leave them alone. If you need new ones, I think you have to get urethane unless you can find NOS or gently used ones. Either way, swaybar bushings won't affect your ride quality a lot, but they could make for non-linear handling if they are in really, really bad shape. But they're also easy to change, and cheap, so they may be worth doing no matter what.

Tie rod ends are fairly cheap and easy. They won't change ride quality, but if your steering is loose they could tighten that up. Moog is usually good stuff, so that's a brand to go with. I've honestly never even looked at C4 tie rods, but won't there be inner and outer ends, both with joints that can get loose? IOW, I'm think there would be a total of four to inspect and possibly replace.

I also have minimal knowledge of C4 U-joints (either in the driveshaft or half shafts). So I'm not sure how prone to wear and noise they are. I would think on a stock C4 with 69k miles, they are probably still okay. But they should definitely be checked for wear and play.

You didn't mention ball joints up front, but they should be inspected. There is one at the outer end of each of the four control arms.

You also haven't mentioned tires. People are often surprised at how much noise tires can make when they are getting near the end of their tread life, or when they've worn unevenly due to a suspension issue. If your tires are old, you will get a lot of NVH improvement by replacing them. Ditto if they are obviously worn unevenly. And when you're done with all the above - and especially if the tires have uneven wear - consider getting an alignment.