Right rear brake lights and blinker not working, but front right is fine
01-17-2018, 12:58 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Right rear brake lights and blinker not working, but front right is fine
Howdy y'all! I've got a 94 Corvette Coupe base that's having some issues with the right blinker and tail light. I was running my girlfriends stuff up to her dorm the other day, and noticed my right blinker would stay solid when I turned it on. I figured it was the flasher, and made a note to stop by the auto store on the way down, and just flashed it manually until then. But, when we got to her college, she told me that my rear right blinker wasn't working, and that the right side brake lights wouldn't turn on when I pressed the petal. I had her sit in the car and press on the petal while I checked it out, and the left brake lights would turn on, but the right wouldn't - same goes for the blinker. The weird part was that a) the tail lights would come on for the right side, but they wouldn't get brighter when the blinker/brake was used and b) the front lights for the right blinker would come on, as do the side markers, but the rear doesn't light up. It's worth noting that it works and will flash sometimes, but I haven't been able to determine if it's a loose wire or what, as going over bumps doesn't seem to help any. What are y'alls suggestions for checking this?
01-17-2018, 02:05 PM
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2002
Location: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
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Start by checking the Brake/TS bulb on that side. Then check the bulb socket.
After that, check voltage to the socket contacts.
After that, a good automotive electrical shop would be your next stop.
After that, check voltage to the socket contacts.
After that, a good automotive electrical shop would be your next stop.
01-17-2018, 05:58 PM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Aren't those the same as the regular taillight bulbs? Sorry, I forgot to mention in the initial post that I replaced all the exterior bulbs (minus the headlights), so all the rear, front and side bulbs are brand new. The taillights always come on when I turn on running lights or headlights, just no flash when braking or blinking.
01-18-2018, 11:16 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
Separate filaments in the bulb for brake/blinker and regular taillights. Not uncommon for one to burn out but not the other. New bulb seems like the obvious solution.
01-18-2018, 12:17 PM
#5
Le Mans Master
Aren't those the same as the regular taillight bulbs? Sorry, I forgot to mention in the initial post that I replaced all the exterior bulbs (minus the headlights), so all the rear, front and side bulbs are brand new. The taillights always come on when I turn on running lights or headlights, just no flash when braking or blinking.
Did you install correct bulbs?
Switch working to non working sides.
The socket can be bad too and take some fiddling to get it to work. It's one of the two. Bulb or socket.
Last edited by Cruisinfanatic; 01-18-2018 at 12:18 PM.
01-20-2018, 08:48 AM
#6
I had a similar issue this last fall on my 94. Changed what was the original factory bulb and all has been well. Local auto parts store had it - Sylvania something or other, common bulb.
Tip: clean off all the goop that might be left on it or the replacement bulb doesn’t connect/sit well.
Also, not sure if there is a better way, but I accessed it through the llicense plate cutout.
Good luck!
J.
Tip: clean off all the goop that might be left on it or the replacement bulb doesn’t connect/sit well.
Also, not sure if there is a better way, but I accessed it through the llicense plate cutout.
Good luck!
J.
Last edited by jdlclam; 01-20-2018 at 08:50 AM.
01-20-2018, 09:49 AM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
Both sides got the same bulb, though I don’t remember what it was off the top of my head, I think it was a sylvania something or other, cost like $30 for all four. Both sides worked prior to and after replacing bulbs, I’ll swap the sides and see if that does anything
Last edited by KenMathisHD; 01-20-2018 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Damn You Auto Correct
01-20-2018, 09:54 AM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
With brake pedal depressed:
Check for power on the dk green wire at the RH sockets. If = No:
Reach over the top of the RH passenger kick panel. There is a wire connector with about 15 wires in it. Pull it out and back probe the dk green wire to check for voltage. If = No:
Remove hush panel under driver side dash. Locate long connector for turn signal switch. Back probe dk green wire for voltage. If = No, the turn signal switch is faulty.
Check for power on the dk green wire at the RH sockets. If = No:
Reach over the top of the RH passenger kick panel. There is a wire connector with about 15 wires in it. Pull it out and back probe the dk green wire to check for voltage. If = No:
Remove hush panel under driver side dash. Locate long connector for turn signal switch. Back probe dk green wire for voltage. If = No, the turn signal switch is faulty.
01-20-2018, 10:01 AM
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I had a similar issue this last fall on my 94. Changed what was the original factory bulb and all has been well. Local auto parts store had it - Sylvania something or other, common bulb.
Tip: clean off all the goop that might be left on it or the replacement bulb doesn’t connect/sit well.
Also, not sure if there is a better way, but I accessed it through the llicense plate cutout.
Good luck!
J.
Tip: clean off all the goop that might be left on it or the replacement bulb doesn’t connect/sit well.
Also, not sure if there is a better way, but I accessed it through the llicense plate cutout.
Good luck!
J.
Btw JD, that is quite a beautiful car, wish I’d waited and gotten me a blue one like that, white’s way to hard to keep up with out here.
01-31-2018, 07:38 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
So figured out you can hold the socket with your hand up through the plate once you wedge it in far enough, turn the socket around, pull a bit of the wires through the hole and hold the socket there so you can stick your probes in next to the wires to test voltage. Got 12 at middle (Brown?) wire, but nothing at green wire, with brake lights on or blinkers on. Went up to the kick panel passenger side, pulled off the plastic around the fuse panel, and found two things:
1) there’s 3 or 4 different multi wire connectors up under there
2) I’ve no clue how to take off the panel without breaking it
I also tried swapping bulbs but no dice, and cleaning hay yellow hunk out didn’t see to do anything. Wiggled the socket around with the bulb in and wiggled wires but no change either.
I included a pic of the connectors I saw under there - which one houses the wire for blinkers? I see at least 2 connectors with the same color wire, maybe three, but I can’t tell.
Also, how on earth do you get this panel off? I’ve got too many broken plastic interior pieces already, and I really don’t want to have another. It’s too bad GM can’t just include a set of hinges to have this thing fold down with - it’d be real handy for getting up under there. I don’t have an FSM for the car, as it’s a bit out of my tight budget right now - so anyone have a step by step process on how to pull this off without breaking it?
Last edited by KenMathisHD; 01-31-2018 at 07:41 PM.
02-02-2018, 07:52 AM
#12
Race Director
to remove the taillight..
Remove the license plate
remove the 2- 7mm screws and remove the Back-up light
Reaching in through the license plate hole, there are 2 10mm screws holding the taillight on to the bumper. this will allow access to the socket
Remove the license plate
remove the 2- 7mm screws and remove the Back-up light
Reaching in through the license plate hole, there are 2 10mm screws holding the taillight on to the bumper. this will allow access to the socket
02-02-2018, 11:13 AM
#13
Racer
Thread Starter
Need to figure out how to pull the passenger kick panel w/o breaking it though, and trying to determine which connector holds the other end of that wire. If I can pull that panel off, I can probably root around and figure out which wire - just need to actually get the darn sucker off though. How do I pull off the passenger kick panel under the dash without cracking/breaking it?
02-02-2018, 11:46 AM
#14
Race Director
Passenger side kick panel:
- remove center vent cover to access the 2 screws..
- Remove screws and Vent assembly, you should see, 3 attaching points for the lower hush
- Open Passenger door
- remove Fuse door
- remove Dash/Fuse Door trim
- remove screw near the door jamb that connects tot he lower hush
- Lower hush panel should then be able to be dropped
- disconnect foot well light
- remove hush panel
I am thinking you have a bad turn signal switch though
- remove center vent cover to access the 2 screws..
- Remove screws and Vent assembly, you should see, 3 attaching points for the lower hush
- Open Passenger door
- remove Fuse door
- remove Dash/Fuse Door trim
- remove screw near the door jamb that connects tot he lower hush
- Lower hush panel should then be able to be dropped
- disconnect foot well light
- remove hush panel
I am thinking you have a bad turn signal switch though
02-02-2018, 12:50 PM
#15
Racer
Thread Starter
Passenger side kick panel:
- remove center vent cover to access the 2 screws..
- Remove screws and Vent assembly, you should see, 3 attaching points for the lower hush
- Open Passenger door
- remove Fuse door
- remove Dash/Fuse Door trim
- remove screw near the door jamb that connects tot he lower hush
- Lower hush panel should then be able to be dropped
- disconnect foot well light
- remove hush panel
I am thinking you have a bad turn signal switch though
- remove center vent cover to access the 2 screws..
- Remove screws and Vent assembly, you should see, 3 attaching points for the lower hush
- Open Passenger door
- remove Fuse door
- remove Dash/Fuse Door trim
- remove screw near the door jamb that connects tot he lower hush
- Lower hush panel should then be able to be dropped
- disconnect foot well light
- remove hush panel
I am thinking you have a bad turn signal switch though
And thanks so much!
02-02-2018, 12:52 PM
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
If I do have to pull apart the column, do you think it's worth it to re-install the original VATS ignition switch? Or should I leave the new switch in there (the original VATS switch was just wired in under the dash by the PO with the key taped in so it wouldn't move or fall out)?
02-02-2018, 12:57 PM
#17
Race Director
No there are 4 separate contacts/switches in the turn signal switch assembly for each corner of the vehicle
02-02-2018, 01:04 PM
#18
Race Director
If I do have to pull apart the column, do you think it's worth it to re-install the original VATS ignition switch? Or should I leave the new switch in there (the original VATS switch was just wired in under the dash by the PO with the key taped in so it wouldn't move or fall out)?
02-02-2018, 02:14 PM
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
Also, is there any way to rebuild the turn signal switch?
02-02-2018, 02:28 PM
#20
Race Director
Ok, that makes sense. And I guess the brake light would run through that same switch, so if the switch is bad at that corner then it wouldn't allow the brake light on that side to light up? Just wan't to make sure I'm understanding it correctly.
Also, is there any way to rebuild the turn signal switch?
Also, is there any way to rebuild the turn signal switch?
Ecklers has them new for $30
https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...1989-1996.html
EDIT.. I just installed this on a column I rebuilt for someone
Last edited by -=Jeff=-; 02-02-2018 at 02:28 PM.