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Just about to push the button on a C4, but it has a AC leak at the compressor. The car has R12 in it, but given that you cannot get that over there I was looking to get the car changed over to R134.
As I'm exporting back to Ireland, it would be much cheaper to get this done while the car was in the US before being exported. Can anyone share what is involved here, what parts need to be replaced and what the typical cost is?
At the very least, you have to change the Receiver/Dryer if you want to keep R12. Otherwise, you should pull every connection and change to the newer style that is R134A compatible if you want to go that route. So before I push the button, I'd make the sale contingent on the fix of the AC system. Otherwise the way I price it is to assume everything has to be changed and pay accordingly. Car is blue booked at $5000 and a total AC replacement is $3000, this car is worth $2000 to me.
My question is how you know it has a leak at the compressor and that it is only that? The word of the Previous Owner doesn't go anywhere with me. IDK how it is on your side of the pond but POs have a habit of lying and downplaying the problem to make the sale. So I'd tell you it is a $500 problem, take $4500 from you and wash my hands of the matter. I'd assume the PO is lying if I were you.
Lots of people have success with changing the dryer and converting to r134, not a hugely expensive repair like alli is making it out to be. That said, I agree that finding the source of the leak and fixing that is the critical path item. To fix the leak they will have to vacuum out the system. At that point, you may as well convert to r134 and put in a new dryer.
Lots of people have success with changing the dryer and converting to r134, not a hugely expensive repair like alli is making it out to be. That said, I agree that finding the source of the leak and fixing that is the critical path item. To fix the leak they will have to vacuum out the system. At that point, you may as well convert to r134 and put in a new dryer.
Most, if not all of the O-rings are in the engine bay. You already have the system drained and in this case the compressor out. Yes, you can get away without changing the old O-rings but age doesn't do most things any good. The O-rings you had MAY or MAY NOT be compatible with R134A. If you feel lucky and think that it is worth the risk to keep the old O-rings and save a few bucks, fine. I wouldn't do that on my car personally. My luck is such that when I shortcut something, even on a longshot, I have, more often than not, wished I didn't play that longshot.
If the car is in good shape and is a good deal, I wouldn't fret over the ac situation. First of all, it is not that expensive to convert to R135 and if you were going to do it, it would probably less expensive over here. Secondly, does it get warm enough in Ireland that you need air conditioning?
Just about to push the button on a C4, but it has a AC leak at the compressor. The car has R12 in it, but given that you cannot get that over there I was looking to get the car changed over to R134.
As I'm exporting back to Ireland, it would be much cheaper to get this done while the car was in the US before being exported. Can anyone share what is involved here, what parts need to be replaced and what the typical cost is?
Rowan.
Hi
Replace the compressor if its leaking, you will need to replace the a/c line O rings. replace the hoses with barrier hoses, you can get them made as per samples you give.
Ester oil is for R12 to R134A conversions, just drain the oil out of the replacement compressor and add the quantity of ester oil that the compressor needs. You can buy the screw on R134A adaptors to the existing ports, replace the accumulator drier and orifice tube.
Pressure test for leaks with nitrogen, then evacuate the system with a vacuum pump and charge with 80% of R134A compared to the R12 refrigerant weight.
Had converted my 85 to R134A was straight forward and has not given any problems over the last 6 years.
Gents,
Many thanks for the reply, and all very good suggestions. There were some things that didnt quite add up (like the fact that the current owner has only had it 6mths, and the previous owner meticulously looked after it) - so I paid for a local company to inspect it. They found a few issues (nothing major, one section of digital cluster dim, small marks on paint, oh - and idler pulley about to fall off! lol) but they did spot the AC leak.
See the picture below - it looks like its the main seal on the compressor itself. The car is blowing cold, so it looks like the leak isnt that bad, but it is something I'd rather just get fixed that leave leaking. Preferably, I would like to leave R12 if that is possible and just sort the leak.
Interestingly, the car has a mountain of paperwork from before and I spotted that it looks like the dryer was converted and a reconditioned compressor put in before. Seller says that this is the last record of AC charge, but suspect.
I also spotted on one of the photos of the car that the dryer is R12/R134 compatible - so that looks like it was changed at some point too.
So in summary:
1) Yes - dint believe the seller and got it checked and that's how I confirmed the leak
2) Preferable I'd like to keep R12 if an option and just sort the leak rather than converting.
3) Yup, generally dont need AC in Ireland as its cold enough as it is - but I'm fussy in that I'd like it sorted and working and figure out the most cost-effective way of sorting before I export the car.
Don't need AC for what? Cooling down the car? Maybe Doesn't defrost use the AC also? I think it might run air through the AC system to dry it and then through the heater core How's the relative humidity there? The weather kind and not the naughty joke kind. Not sure if you know the difference Lol
Don't need AC for what? Cooling down the car? Maybe Doesn't defrost use the AC also? I think it might run air through the AC system to dry it and then through the heater core How's the relative humidity there? The weather kind and not the naughty joke kind. Not sure if you know the difference Lol
383Vette was asking whether it got warm enough in Ireland to require A/C but I must admit... this thread is getting me quite "moist"
don't need ac for what? Cooling down the car? Maybe doesn't defrost use the ac also? I think it might run air through the ac system to dry it and then through the heater core how's the relative humidity there? The weather kind and not the naughty joke kind. Not sure if you know the difference lol
When the A/C or Defrost mode is selected, Ground is applied to the Electronic Control, Module (ECM) A/C Request Signal input from the Heater and A/C Programmer. The ECM then applies ground to one end of the A.C Clutch Relay coil energizing the Relay
This is under Circuit Operation Page 8A-67-7, 4th paragraph of my FSM. Why do you think the AC isn't involved in the Defrost?
So if its the seal at the compressor, can I just replace that and refill with R12 and job done?
In theory, yes. In practice, maybe not. You said the receiver/dryer has been replaced so maybe R12 was there, maybe not. Maybe he has put some other concoction of gas in it. You said there was a mountain of paperwork. You might have to see what he has done. If he has done the R134A conversion with all the rings and all that, replace or rebuild the compressor and change the receiver/dryer. Also, while it is out, I'd cut it apart to make sure there is no debris in the thing. It kinda acts as a filter and desiccant so you have a choice. Run a long vacuum on it and hope all is well or replace it. IIRC, some places will not honor a warranty if you don't replace it when getting a rebuilt compressor.
If you want to rebuild the compressor yourself, I'm sure there are kits and instructions.
Are you certain that the system has always been R12? The concern is the oil type. If a system is converted to R134 and the oil changed to Ester, fine. If the refrigerant is converted back to R12, the oil can stay Ester. No problem. BUT if you now change the compressor, and use Mineral oil in the new compressor, but the desiccant still contains Ester, it will make a mess.
There is no way to really know what the oil situation is. When I approach a deal like this I change the compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. I check the orifice tube for metal debris on the screen, and if found, I may change the condenser and flush the lines as well.
I put 3oz of oil in the compressor and 4oz in the new accumulator. Then nitrogen check (as mentioned), evacuate and recharge. I also verify the compressor cycling cut-out pressure switch adjustment is correct for the refrigerant being used. 25-26psi for R-12, 20psi for R-134. The older switches are adjustable, so check it. Particularly with R-134.
There's some highlights. I'd also recommend hiding some replacement refrigerant in the car when it ships. It's probably cheaper over here than in Ireland.
Don't shops have some sort of gizmo to check which you have? Assuming it is either R134A or R12? Any idea how much they can tell? IOW can they tell whether it is R134A or R12 only or can they tell if you have installed some other stuff you get to substitute?
04-15-2018, 05:18 PM
New Car - AC R12 Leak - need advice
and got it checked and that's how I confirmed the leak 
but I must admit... this thread is getting me quite "moist" 
