Gaining HP
05-07-2018, 01:18 PM
#21
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what would be needed to be done to bring car close to 450-500 HP before forced induction?
I have a 94 LT1. 84K con the clock.
cars mods are basic
MSD Ingition
SLP cold air intake
GMMG ehaust
tuned
bigger throttle body (BBK?)
transmission also built for 600+ HP (with a shift kit, shifts HARD from 1st to 2nd
)
I have a 94 LT1. 84K con the clock.
cars mods are basic
MSD Ingition
SLP cold air intake
GMMG ehaust
tuned
bigger throttle body (BBK?)
transmission also built for 600+ HP (with a shift kit, shifts HARD from 1st to 2nd
)Rest of the mods, I don't think they yield much. Not sure who tuned the car but what did the dyno say?
So, a couple grand for the rear end, $7000 for a good long block, a few grand for the intake and good headers and we are up to $10000 assuming you do the work yourself. About another $1000 in dyno tuning and lets call it an even $13000 once all is said and done. Still wanna?
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CVG323 (05-07-2018)
05-07-2018, 02:12 PM
#22
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C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
To get that power you will want more cubic inches. 383, 396. Port the intake out.
You will need better flowing heads, 195cc minimum, 200 or 210 would seem about right to me. Preferably AFR heads. 1.6 or 1.7 RR.
Fairly aggressive cam, probably around 230/230 at 050", give or take a few degrees. The larger displacement will allow you to run more duration. Tuning this thing will get tricky, so you'll want to have this done on a dynojet with someone you can trust will get it right. It will probably not be perfectly tuned the first time for streetability. You have to get the tuner in the car with you and drive it around. I had to take my guy for a few rides to get it how I wanted it.
1 3/4" headers, obviously.
If street driven, the D36 will last. If you take it to the track, with more than 450-500 lb-ft of torque, you'll eventually destroy it. You will want to budget a D44 in that case with at least 3.54 gears behind this motor.
You will need better flowing heads, 195cc minimum, 200 or 210 would seem about right to me. Preferably AFR heads. 1.6 or 1.7 RR.
Fairly aggressive cam, probably around 230/230 at 050", give or take a few degrees. The larger displacement will allow you to run more duration. Tuning this thing will get tricky, so you'll want to have this done on a dynojet with someone you can trust will get it right. It will probably not be perfectly tuned the first time for streetability. You have to get the tuner in the car with you and drive it around. I had to take my guy for a few rides to get it how I wanted it.
1 3/4" headers, obviously.
If street driven, the D36 will last. If you take it to the track, with more than 450-500 lb-ft of torque, you'll eventually destroy it. You will want to budget a D44 in that case with at least 3.54 gears behind this motor.
05-07-2018, 02:39 PM
#23
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You talking of a hard 1-2 shift makes me think it is auto. IIRC, that is a Dana 36 rear end. I don't think it will survive long if you get your 500HP engine, Budget in a couple thousand for a D44.
Rest of the mods, I don't think they yield much. Not sure who tuned the car but what did the dyno say?
So, a couple grand for the rear end, $7000 for a good long block, a few grand for the intake and good headers and we are up to $10000 assuming you do the work yourself. About another $1000 in dyno tuning and lets call it an even $13000 once all is said and done. Still wanna?
Rest of the mods, I don't think they yield much. Not sure who tuned the car but what did the dyno say?
So, a couple grand for the rear end, $7000 for a good long block, a few grand for the intake and good headers and we are up to $10000 assuming you do the work yourself. About another $1000 in dyno tuning and lets call it an even $13000 once all is said and done. Still wanna?
05-07-2018, 02:49 PM
#24
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05-07-2018, 03:00 PM
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05-07-2018, 03:06 PM
#26
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CVG323 (05-07-2018)
05-07-2018, 03:16 PM
#27
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And you might have to buy an install kit or fab some mounts and get a rear end. IDK if it comes with the ECM to control it. You'd have a lot of work to go into but if that is what you want, I'd talk him down some. How do you know it does what he says it does? His good word? Pass for me.
I just typed LS engine on craigslist and it popped up.
I can buy a wrecked car from copart and have all I need for cheaper
just need to decide what it is I want to do. car is fine for now, but I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. the wife actually likes the damn thing 
its going to be my toy (money pit)
05-07-2018, 03:32 PM
#28
Team Owner
no way I'd pay asking price.
I just typed LS engine on craigslist and it popped up.
I can buy a wrecked car from copart and have all I need for cheaper just need to decide what it is I want to do. car is fine for now, but I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. the wife actually likes the damn thing
its going to be my toy (money pit)
I just typed LS engine on craigslist and it popped up.
I can buy a wrecked car from copart and have all I need for cheaper
just need to decide what it is I want to do. car is fine for now, but I don't plan on getting rid of it anytime soon. the wife actually likes the damn thing its going to be my toy (money pit)
That the car can be. Money Pit.
Last edited by aklim; 05-07-2018 at 03:33 PM.
05-07-2018, 03:51 PM
#29
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I wouldn't pay that much since I don't want the trans that is untested nor the motor. If something is broken, it might be simple and cheap for most but with my luck, something expensive and difficult. BTDT with a Dana 44. Gave up and got Tom's to get me a case and put the internals in it after replacing worn stuff once I found out it was cracked. Thankfully, I didn't pay too much. Sorry, that an many other incidences have soured me on parts that are taken out of unknown vehicles. I think I have come to the point that I can't afford it if it is cheap anymore.
That the car can be. Money Pit.
That the car can be. Money Pit.
I may leave it alone for a bit. once I feel I need MORE POWER I'll look into an LS swap. cheaper than building this LT-1 haha
05-07-2018, 08:49 PM
#30
Team Owner
IDK. Define cheaper? If you rebuild the LT1, you know quality parts are going in and there is a warranty. You know it will fit without getting out the shoehorn. You know it will work with every system in the car. With an LS swap, you can get it cheap if you go with a junkyard one, IOW, total unknown. $7000 if you get a new one from Summit or Jegs. You will have to spend time screwing with it to get it to fit in with the new brackets and accessories. It might not communicated with the BCM of the C4 and some stuff might be lost and you have to rewire. Kinda apples to oranges. I was looking at it with Torquehead. They are doing a 92 and up but they have 94-06 worked out. About $2000.
05-10-2018, 11:24 PM
#31
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St. Jude Donor '05
Look at La CL a lot guys are on crack for what they ask for a high mi ls
They arent magic, cubes are cubes. So the cyl heads arent bad big deal plenty out there to make reliable power with what you have. Unless you have the budget for big ls cubes dont bother.
Most those "junkyard turbo 5.3" builds dont last very long fwiw
Check out pace performance, scoggin dickey, summit/jegs they sell some nice GM LS packages with everything you need if youre stuck on that route, plus some have that CARB# which youll need for smog. New is better
They arent magic, cubes are cubes. So the cyl heads arent bad big deal plenty out there to make reliable power with what you have. Unless you have the budget for big ls cubes dont bother.
Most those "junkyard turbo 5.3" builds dont last very long fwiw
Check out pace performance, scoggin dickey, summit/jegs they sell some nice GM LS packages with everything you need if youre stuck on that route, plus some have that CARB# which youll need for smog. New is better
05-11-2018, 01:38 PM
#32
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Not just used parts. People in general. Too many times I look at a car or any item and somehow discover stuff that the seller only noticed when I pointed it out. Runs just fine but is scared of me running a compression test or getting a PDI. Scan the car and codes are there but the warning light is magically missing. Yeah, right.
IDK. Define cheaper? If you rebuild the LT1, you know quality parts are going in and there is a warranty. You know it will fit without getting out the shoehorn. You know it will work with every system in the car. With an LS swap, you can get it cheap if you go with a junkyard one, IOW, total unknown. $7000 if you get a new one from Summit or Jegs. You will have to spend time screwing with it to get it to fit in with the new brackets and accessories. It might not communicated with the BCM of the C4 and some stuff might be lost and you have to rewire. Kinda apples to oranges. I was looking at it with Torquehead. They are doing a 92 and up but they have 94-06 worked out. About $2000.
IDK. Define cheaper? If you rebuild the LT1, you know quality parts are going in and there is a warranty. You know it will fit without getting out the shoehorn. You know it will work with every system in the car. With an LS swap, you can get it cheap if you go with a junkyard one, IOW, total unknown. $7000 if you get a new one from Summit or Jegs. You will have to spend time screwing with it to get it to fit in with the new brackets and accessories. It might not communicated with the BCM of the C4 and some stuff might be lost and you have to rewire. Kinda apples to oranges. I was looking at it with Torquehead. They are doing a 92 and up but they have 94-06 worked out. About $2000.
helps I have buddies in the wrecked cars industry. I can bid on a FUBAR'd car for drive train and harness. scrap the rest. work would be done by me and my brother
before I do that (If I even go that route, ill look into what I can do with this LT1)
05-11-2018, 01:39 PM
#33
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Look at La CL a lot guys are on crack for what they ask for a high mi ls
They arent magic, cubes are cubes. So the cyl heads arent bad big deal plenty out there to make reliable power with what you have. Unless you have the budget for big ls cubes dont bother.
Most those "junkyard turbo 5.3" builds dont last very long fwiw
Check out pace performance, scoggin dickey, summit/jegs they sell some nice GM LS packages with everything you need if youre stuck on that route, plus some have that CARB# which youll need for smog. New is better
They arent magic, cubes are cubes. So the cyl heads arent bad big deal plenty out there to make reliable power with what you have. Unless you have the budget for big ls cubes dont bother.
Most those "junkyard turbo 5.3" builds dont last very long fwiw
Check out pace performance, scoggin dickey, summit/jegs they sell some nice GM LS packages with everything you need if youre stuck on that route, plus some have that CARB# which youll need for smog. New is better
its the IN engine right now. everybody swaps them out haha
Last edited by CVG323; 05-11-2018 at 01:39 PM.
05-11-2018, 01:54 PM
#34
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St. Jude Donor '05
Not knocking them but its not as easy and cheap as some say. Think most of them grew up around the LS and think its the answer for everything. Remember when a TBI or TPI swap was a big deal, couldnt give one of those cars away now. Its all personal choice .
Just cant see where it makes sense to swap out a 350 for a ls of the same size theres simply no advantage for the extra money spent;even worse yet someone recommending "do a 5.3". A smaller motor is better, ugh.
Just cant see where it makes sense to swap out a 350 for a ls of the same size theres simply no advantage for the extra money spent;even worse yet someone recommending "do a 5.3". A smaller motor is better, ugh.
Last edited by cv67; 05-11-2018 at 01:55 PM.
05-11-2018, 01:58 PM
#35
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Not knocking them but its not as easy and cheap as some say. Think most of them grew up around the LS and think its the answer for everything. Remember when a TBI or TPI swap was a big deal, couldnt give one of those cars away now. Its all personal choice .
Just cant see where it makes sense to swap out a 350 for a ls of the same size theres simply no advantage for the extra money spent;even worse yet someone recommending "do a 5.3". A smaller motor is better, ugh.
Just cant see where it makes sense to swap out a 350 for a ls of the same size theres simply no advantage for the extra money spent;even worse yet someone recommending "do a 5.3". A smaller motor is better, ugh.
theres a squeak under the passenger side airbag that is driving me INSANE!!!! dashpad comes off tomorrow (for various reasons) to seek and destroy that stupid squeak! I also have to polish the instrument cluster protective shield as its scratched to all hell. im hoping the polish removes the scuffs. if not Ill order it and replace it.
05-11-2018, 02:53 PM
#36
Team Owner
decent setup from a wrecked car can be had for 5-6K
helps I have buddies in the wrecked cars industry. I can bid on a FUBAR'd car for drive train and harness. scrap the rest. work would be done by me and my brother
before I do that (If I even go that route, ill look into what I can do with this LT1)
helps I have buddies in the wrecked cars industry. I can bid on a FUBAR'd car for drive train and harness. scrap the rest. work would be done by me and my brother
before I do that (If I even go that route, ill look into what I can do with this LT1)
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19257234/10002/-1
05-11-2018, 06:15 PM
#37
Not knocking them but its not as easy and cheap as some say. Think most of them grew up around the LS and think its the answer for everything. Remember when a TBI or TPI swap was a big deal, couldnt give one of those cars away now. Its all personal choice .
Just cant see where it makes sense to swap out a 350 for a ls of the same size theres simply no advantage for the extra money spent;even worse yet someone recommending "do a 5.3". A smaller motor is better, ugh.
Just cant see where it makes sense to swap out a 350 for a ls of the same size theres simply no advantage for the extra money spent;even worse yet someone recommending "do a 5.3". A smaller motor is better, ugh.
a built 350 sbc can make 450 reliably, streetably is up to the driver.
05-11-2018, 06:58 PM
#38
I've been researching many of the options your're looking at for my '95 auto. I've narrowed it down to this https://golenengineservice.com/lt1-performance-engines/ (scroll down to the long block 440hp version). This will bolt right into your car, but you still need to buy or fab:
-Ported LT1 Intake
-58mm throttle body
-36 lb fuel injectors
-SFI Approved Internal Balance Flex Plate
-Steel Keyed Crank Hub
-ECU tuning
But you will NOT need to solve water pump, ignition, fuel delivery, and mainly wiring issues.
-Ported LT1 Intake
-58mm throttle body
-36 lb fuel injectors
-SFI Approved Internal Balance Flex Plate
-Steel Keyed Crank Hub
-ECU tuning
But you will NOT need to solve water pump, ignition, fuel delivery, and mainly wiring issues.
Last edited by jayjones; 05-11-2018 at 07:00 PM.