89 Won't Idle - Should I buy as is?
06-10-2018, 08:12 PM
#1
89 Won't Idle - Should I buy as is?
I am looking at an 89 that has been sitting probably a couple of years.
Engine starts, but won't idle, engine stops when foot taken off pedal.
May buy as is.
Where should I look first?
Take a chance?
Engine starts, but won't idle, engine stops when foot taken off pedal.
May buy as is.
Where should I look first?
Take a chance?
06-10-2018, 09:35 PM
#2
Drifting
You didn't say how much....issues you stated could be overcome with a tune-up and idle adjustment...how ever, wouldn't hurt to have someone who knows L98's look at it....can be lots of work restoring her to her original condition.....older c4's are 4-5 grand, a little more for newer years....
06-10-2018, 10:32 PM
#6
Team Owner
Have you considered getting a Pre Delivery Inspection done at some dealership that knows C4 Corvettes and has the right tools to test everything like a Tech 1 scanner? Maybe a Tech 2 can also work? I haven't tried it yet. A PDI will give you an indication of what is wrong and you can ask how much it will take to make it right. That will aid you in the decision of what to offer.
06-11-2018, 07:29 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: South-central Missouri
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Have you considered getting a Pre Delivery Inspection done at some dealership that knows C4 Corvettes and has the right tools to test everything like a Tech 1 scanner? Maybe a Tech 2 can also work? I haven't tried it yet. A PDI will give you an indication of what is wrong and you can ask how much it will take to make it right. That will aid you in the decision of what to offer.
$4500 LESS what it takes to fix whatever turns up.
06-11-2018, 07:56 AM
#10
Drifting
06-12-2018, 02:26 AM
#12
OK, idles now, owner replaced air cleaner, changed oil and filter,,,,,but now billows of smoke....but mobile mechanic says its the bad gas, not a oil burner....maybe a bit through the valve stems, but that should clear.
Two questions.....ok...three
1. Is the smoke bad gas in your opinion? (smells like bad gas)
2. What does it take to drop the gas tank? (should be drained, not just refilled?)
3. Far price, noting the risk I am taking? seems to be a solid car in all other aspects...yes?
See attachments
Two questions.....ok...three
1. Is the smoke bad gas in your opinion? (smells like bad gas)
2. What does it take to drop the gas tank? (should be drained, not just refilled?)
3. Far price, noting the risk I am taking? seems to be a solid car in all other aspects...yes?
See attachments
Last edited by woodcrest; 06-12-2018 at 02:27 AM.
06-12-2018, 08:48 AM
#14
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: South-central Missouri
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OK, idles now, owner replaced air cleaner, changed oil and filter,,,,,but now billows of smoke....but mobile mechanic says its the bad gas, not a oil burner....maybe a bit through the valve stems, but that should clear.
Two questions.....ok...three
1. Is the smoke bad gas in your opinion? (smells like bad gas)
2. What does it take to drop the gas tank? (should be drained, not just refilled?)
3. Far price, noting the risk I am taking? seems to be a solid car in all other aspects...yes?
See attachments
Two questions.....ok...three
1. Is the smoke bad gas in your opinion? (smells like bad gas)
2. What does it take to drop the gas tank? (should be drained, not just refilled?)
3. Far price, noting the risk I am taking? seems to be a solid car in all other aspects...yes?
See attachments
on the "bad gas" explanation. 
There are a host of reasons why there might be a gasoline smell having nothing to do with the smoke (water vapor), e.g., water condensation collected in the exhaust (will disappear in 5 min or so), head gasket leak, to name a couple.
Oil smoke is blueish and is slow to dissipate. Gas (running very rich) is black. Water (antifreeze) is whitish and dissipates quickly in the air - unlike real smoke (e.g., oil or gasoline smoke).
And, how did the idle get "fixed"? Did someone twist the idle air screw and call it good?
I'm not trying to be painting a dark picture, but I've fussed with cars since I was a teen, and now am nearly 70. Tho I'm not too old to learn new stuff, but "BAD GAS" is often a catch-all for something else more serious (and the salesman doesn't want to admit to it, or consider it).
If you already bought it, at the very least I'd be inspecting the spark plugs. Are they gasoline or oil fouled, or are one/some "steam cleaned" (as in water/coolant).
Can you or someone handy scan it for codes? (That would be interesting to see...)
Last edited by Paul Workman; 06-12-2018 at 08:49 AM.
06-12-2018, 11:51 AM
#15
06-12-2018, 12:53 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
If yours is like mine, reserve means get gas now because you're about to run out stupid. I had my reserve come on in my driveway... 3 miles to the nearest gas station and she was bucking pulling into it...
06-12-2018, 01:26 PM
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: SE NY
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Cruise-In II Veteran
...but mobile mechanic says its the bad gas, not a oil burner....
You could check cylinder compression values and leak down rates.
My prior '88 had 90k miles on the clock and rather low fuel pressure. The oil would get dark before an oil change.
The current '88 with ~50k miles runs ~40-45lbs idle oil pressure and 50-60lbs on highway, with clean oil at change time.
06-12-2018, 03:39 PM
#18
"Bad gas", my ***! I've run cars that have sat outside w/o running for 7 years and the fired up and ran and idles OK as long as water hadn't condensed in the tank. So, I declare on the "bad gas" explanation.
There are a host of reasons why there might be a gasoline smell having nothing to do with the smoke (water vapor), e.g., water condensation collected in the exhaust (will disappear in 5 min or so), head gasket leak, to name a couple.
Oil smoke is blueish and is slow to dissipate. Gas (running very rich) is black. Water (antifreeze) is whitish and dissipates quickly in the air - unlike real smoke (e.g., oil or gasoline smoke).
And, how did the idle get "fixed"? Did someone twist the idle air screw and call it good?
I'm not trying to be painting a dark picture, but I've fussed with cars since I was a teen, and now am nearly 70. Tho I'm not too old to learn new stuff, but "BAD GAS" is often a catch-all for something else more serious (and the salesman doesn't want to admit to it, or consider it).
If you already bought it, at the very least I'd be inspecting the spark plugs. Are they gasoline or oil fouled, or are one/some "steam cleaned" (as in water/coolant).
Can you or someone handy scan it for codes? (That would be interesting to see...)
on the "bad gas" explanation. There are a host of reasons why there might be a gasoline smell having nothing to do with the smoke (water vapor), e.g., water condensation collected in the exhaust (will disappear in 5 min or so), head gasket leak, to name a couple.
Oil smoke is blueish and is slow to dissipate. Gas (running very rich) is black. Water (antifreeze) is whitish and dissipates quickly in the air - unlike real smoke (e.g., oil or gasoline smoke).
And, how did the idle get "fixed"? Did someone twist the idle air screw and call it good?
I'm not trying to be painting a dark picture, but I've fussed with cars since I was a teen, and now am nearly 70. Tho I'm not too old to learn new stuff, but "BAD GAS" is often a catch-all for something else more serious (and the salesman doesn't want to admit to it, or consider it).
If you already bought it, at the very least I'd be inspecting the spark plugs. Are they gasoline or oil fouled, or are one/some "steam cleaned" (as in water/coolant).
Can you or someone handy scan it for codes? (That would be interesting to see...)
06-12-2018, 03:50 PM
#20
"Bad gas", my ***! I've run cars that have sat outside w/o running for 7 years and the fired up and ran and idles OK as long as water hadn't condensed in the tank. So, I declare on the "bad gas" explanation.
There are a host of reasons why there might be a gasoline smell having nothing to do with the smoke (water vapor), e.g., water condensation collected in the exhaust (will disappear in 5 min or so), head gasket leak, to name a couple.
Oil smoke is blueish and is slow to dissipate. Gas (running very rich) is black. Water (antifreeze) is whitish and dissipates quickly in the air - unlike real smoke (e.g., oil or gasoline smoke).
And, how did the idle get "fixed"? Did someone twist the idle air screw and call it good?
I'm not trying to be painting a dark picture, but I've fussed with cars since I was a teen, and now am nearly 70. Tho I'm not too old to learn new stuff, but "BAD GAS" is often a catch-all for something else more serious (and the salesman doesn't want to admit to it, or consider it).
If you already bought it, at the very least I'd be inspecting the spark plugs. Are they gasoline or oil fouled, or are one/some "steam cleaned" (as in water/coolant).
Can you or someone handy scan it for codes? (That would be interesting to see...)
on the "bad gas" explanation. There are a host of reasons why there might be a gasoline smell having nothing to do with the smoke (water vapor), e.g., water condensation collected in the exhaust (will disappear in 5 min or so), head gasket leak, to name a couple.
Oil smoke is blueish and is slow to dissipate. Gas (running very rich) is black. Water (antifreeze) is whitish and dissipates quickly in the air - unlike real smoke (e.g., oil or gasoline smoke).
And, how did the idle get "fixed"? Did someone twist the idle air screw and call it good?
I'm not trying to be painting a dark picture, but I've fussed with cars since I was a teen, and now am nearly 70. Tho I'm not too old to learn new stuff, but "BAD GAS" is often a catch-all for something else more serious (and the salesman doesn't want to admit to it, or consider it).
If you already bought it, at the very least I'd be inspecting the spark plugs. Are they gasoline or oil fouled, or are one/some "steam cleaned" (as in water/coolant).
Can you or someone handy scan it for codes? (That would be interesting to see...)