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I want to replace the fuel filter on my 96 vette. I'm looking at it and how do you get the back line nut off? There's no room to get a wrench in there.
Last edited by turbobuick33; 07-13-2018 at 04:53 PM.
Yes, it is tight and you will need two wrenches; one to "hold" and one to spin.
I did mine a couple of weeks ago. I "cracked" both nots so they were loose and disconnected the front first and then "Spun" the filtyer off the back nut. To assemble, I spun the filter on and then tightened (yes it is a 1/8 turn at a time) the back first.
Remember to release the fuel pressure first or you will have a face full of gas!
You can also pull the fuel pump fuse and run the lines dry, pinch off the fuel line at the tank with the proper tool and that will help keep spilled gas to a minimum.
I just did mine. Disconnect both the lower nut on the filter and the return line.
Remove the line clamp by the evaporator housing and both lines and filter will come up into the engine bay. Swap the filter, and put them back down.
Something I wrote up a long long time ago for my 96 coupe
Fuel pressure relief
Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable, so take extra precautions when you work on any part of the fuel system. Don't smoke or allow open flames or bare light bulbs near the work area, and don't work in an area where a natural gas-type appliance (such as a water heater or a clothes dryer) with a pilot light is present. Since gasoline is carcinogenic, wear latex gloves when there's a possibility of being exposed to fuel, and, if you spill any fuel on your skin, rinse it off immediately with soap and water. Mop up any spills immediately and do not store fuel soaked rags where they could ignite. The fuel system is under constant pressure, so, if any fuel lines are to be disconnected, the fuel pressure in the system must be relieved first. When you perform any kind of work on the fuel system, wear safety glasses and have a Class B type fire extinguisher on hand.
Note: After the fuel pressure has been relieved. it's a good idea to lay a shop towel over any fuel connection to be disassembled, to absorb the residual fuel that may leak out when servicing the fuel system. I found on my 96 the fuel continued to leak out during the entire fuel filter assembly.
The fuel system remains under pressure even after the engine has been shut off for an extended time. Therefore it is necessary to relieve the pressure in the fuel system before any work is done on fuel injection components or lines.
Remove the cover from the fuse block located in the right end of the dashboard.
Pull the fuel pump fuse from the fuse block to disable the pump. The fuel pump fuse is identified by the letters FP.
Start the engine and let it run until it dies from lack of fuel, then crank the engine over for several seconds with the starter to insure that all pressure has been eliminated from the system.
Be sure to replace the fuel pump fuse when work is completed on the fuel system.
Fuel Filter Replacement
Note: On 1992 and later vehicles the right catalytic converter is located next to the fuel filter. It will be necessary to allow the vehicle to cool for a minimum of one hour before attempting to service the fuel filter The battery must be disconnected to prevent shorting the starter and the starter electrical components also located near the fuel filter. Expect minimum fuel spillage of up to one quart during filter service.
Relieve fuel pressure (See Above)
Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.
Using a backup wrench (13/16 SAE), disconnect the fuel line-to-fuel filter fittings (5/8 SAE)
Remove the fuel filter clamp bolt at the right frame rail using a 10 mm wrench (see image from step 3).
In the engine compartment remove the fuel line clamp using a 10 mm wrench.
The line closest to the engine firewall is the line containing the fuel pump
You now should be able to life the fuel up through the engine bay
Disconnect the fuel line-to-fuel filter fittings.
Place the new filter in position and tighten the filter clamp bolt securely. Make sure the arrow on the filter points toward the engine and the rubber gaskets are in place. (Note: gaskets will not come with the filter, it is probably a good idea to replace these gaskets available at the dealer.)
Lower the filter back down the engine compartment.
The remaining steps of the installation procedure are the reverse of removal.
I found that the entire process took me about 30 minutes once the car was jacked up. I lost about a quart of fuel during the process.
BAC22's instructions are great. From my recent experience I'll add this.
After depressurizing the fuel system, I also had the fuel pump out so all lines back there disconnected, I still had residual fuel come out of both lines. Since I had the car on stands, this created a somewhat confined space that had fairly strong vapors. Decided to take a break and let those dissipate with the help of a small fan, before going back under the car.
BAC 22, when you removed the line clamp from the evap housing, did you get the nut off or did the stud back out?
My stud loosened first so I just treated it like a bolt.
I don't recall to be honest, it's been awhile since I last changed mind...so much so I just picked up a new fuel filter today so I can replace mine again in the near future.
I have an '87. A year ago I changed the fuel pump. There is also a mesh "sock" at the fuel pump inlet. Found mine very dark, really saturated w/ crap from over the years. So I changed both. The was a noticeable increase in performance. I'd have to suggest you check that out too.
I'm not sure if same part on a '96.
Last edited by kcorus; 07-17-2018 at 11:36 AM.
Reason: missing info
I loosened the nut on the bottom of the filter and the nut on the fuel line next to the filter. Now this getting messy!! Fuel will not stop pouring out from the bottom of the line. Why won't the fuel stop pouring out????
I loosened the nut on the bottom of the filter and the nut on the fuel line next to the filter. Now this getting messy!! Fuel will not stop pouring out from the bottom of the line. Why won't the fuel stop pouring out????
Did you either disconnect the lines at the tank or clamp them off? If not gravity will allow the fuel to siphon out until the tank is pretty much empty.
So far i have lost about 4 gallons of gas and still won't stop pouring. This is such a mess! The car is jacked up only in the front and not the rear. No I did not disconnect or pinched off the lines at the tank. I didn't know this needed to be done. Which line do I pinch off or disconnect?
Last edited by turbobuick33; 07-21-2018 at 08:03 PM.
So far i have lost about 4 gallons of gas and still won't stop pouring. This is such a mess! The car is jacked up only in the front and not the rear. No I did not disconnect or pinched off the lines at the tank. I didn't know this needed to be done. Which line do I pinch off or disconnect?
Sound like you're gas cap is letting air in. Gas will leak out, but as I mention in the 30 minutes it too me to change mine it was a small amount of about a quart. If air can get in through the gas cap then the I would expect the gas to leak out faster.
I will say of all fuel filters I've changed on a number of vehicles, the C4 is a somewhat of PITA. I'm debating on weather just paying my mechanic to do it.
Sound like you're gas cap is letting air in. Gas will leak out, but as I mention in the 30 minutes it too me to change mine it was a small amount of about a quart. If air can get in through the gas cap then the I would expect the gas to leak out faster.
I will say of all fuel filters I've changed on a number of vehicles, the C4 is a somewhat of PITA. I'm debating on weather just paying my mechanic to do it.
The gas cap is on tight. I'll try pinching the hose and see if that helps. If I disconnect the fuel hose at the tank, then fuel will be pouring out from the tank and there will be more of a mess.
Yes I agree the C4 corvette is the worse fuel filter change I have ever done. Im thinking about giving up and bringing it to a shop. I'm just overwelmed with all of this gas. My garage is a complete mess, the fumes and gas all over the garage floor. My shirt got completely soaked with gas and I took 2 showers and i still smell like gas. I have a headache from the fumes and i still haven't removed the filter.
Last edited by turbobuick33; 07-22-2018 at 10:37 AM.
I loosened the nut on the bottom of the filter and the nut on the fuel line next to the filter. Now this getting messy!! Fuel will not stop pouring out from the bottom of the line. Why won't the fuel stop pouring out????
Wow, that's crazy, I have no idea why you're have so much gas pour out. This is what I lost when I did mine....
wow I had about 4 bins of fuel. I did pull the fuse out and ran it till it died but I didn't pinch off the fuel lines.
I'm going to try this one more time, this time on the driveway. There's just to much fuel fumes under the car from all the gas spillage and hard for me to breathe. Since I lost a lot of gas, this is how much gas is left. I think I will drive the car till the low fuel light comes on before I attempt this again.
If I disconnect the fuel hose at the tank, then fuel will be pouring out from the tank and there will be more of a mess.
It won't come out of the tank with the line disconnected. The line is on top of the tank.
This might be too late to help you but maybe someone else will find it usefull
The return is always above the fuel level but the supply is below. So once both were disconnected the vent line provided air Even with a sealed cap. Since the fuel filter is below the tank a siphon starts and won't stop until the fuel level drops below the fuel pump inlet.
07-13-2018, 04:52 PM
Removing the fuel filter
