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Parking Brake light stays on sometimes

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Old 08-24-2018, 03:51 PM
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Bfenty
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Default Parking Brake light stays on sometimes

So my parking brake light comes on sometimes when I am holding the brake, and I noticed the brake pedal got a little soft the other day while sitting on a hill. I pumped it a few times and it got stiff again. Fluid level looks good, but I'm wondering if something is wrong. What should I look at? Should I be worried?
Old 08-24-2018, 10:57 PM
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auburn2
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It could be several things. If it is happening when regular brakes are applied it is could be either a faulty switch or unequal pressure in front and rear brake systems. The unequal pressure is caused by an internal or external leak.

I think on some models worn pads can also cause a light.
Old 08-25-2018, 08:36 AM
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I’ll probably start with pad replacements, I’m betting they are pretty worn. See if that helps and go from there.
Old 08-25-2018, 10:11 AM
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billschroeder5842
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Pumping your brakes may be a sign that you have a bit of air in the system. I'd start with the cheap and easy way of bleeding all your brakes first and see if that makes a difference. You will know is about 30 minutes.
Old 08-25-2018, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by billschroeder5842
Pumping your brakes may be a sign that you have a bit of air in the system. I'd start with the cheap and easy way of bleeding all your brakes first and see if that makes a difference. You will know is about 30 minutes.
ok will do. It’s hapoened all of twice in a month and with the nice weather we’ve had I’ve been driving almost daily, so it’s not common. And both times were at long stop lights where I held the brakes for roughly a minute.
Old 08-25-2018, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
And both times were at long stop lights where I held the brakes for roughly a minute.
"Boiling" your brake fluid is a sign that you may need a good flush. I'd still bleed first as any air will expand when heated, compress and create your symptoms.
Old 08-25-2018, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by billschroeder5842
"Boiling" your brake fluid is a sign that you may need a good flush. I'd still bleed first as any air will expand when heated, compress and create your symptoms.
thanks for the advice!
Old 08-25-2018, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
I’ll probably start with pad replacements, I’m betting they are pretty worn. See if that helps and go from there.
Why would it be the pads? Either they are good or they are bad. It can't be good today and bad tomorrow and good again 20 minutes later.
Old 08-25-2018, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Why would it be the pads? Either they are good or they are bad. It can't be good today and bad tomorrow and good again 20 minutes later.
yea I’m just saying the pads probably need to be replaced regardless. I’ve not done it since buying the car and my policy is to replace all the consumables on a car I buy.
Old 08-25-2018, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
yea I’m just saying the pads probably need to be replaced regardless. I’ve not done it since buying the car and my policy is to replace all the consumables on a car I buy.
I replaced all the fluids in the car I buy as a rule. If you do pads, might as well do rotors and complete flush
Old 08-25-2018, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim
I replaced all the fluids in the car I buy as a rule. If you do pads, might as well do rotors and complete flush
i will check rotors. Already replaced all fluids EXCEPT brake fluid because I didn’t know how to flush completely. I’ll probably have it done fairly soon though.
Old 08-26-2018, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty


i will check rotors. Already replaced all fluids EXCEPT brake fluid because I didn’t know how to flush completely. I’ll probably have it done fairly soon though.
If you have several cars, get a flush unit and do it every 2 years. Either way suck all fluids out of the reservoir and put fresh fluid in. Open the bleed screw one at a time from the farthest to nearest and don't let it run dry. When clean fluid comes out close screw and fill reservoir and repeat
Old 08-26-2018, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
If you have several cars, get a flush unit and do it every 2 years. Either way suck all fluids out of the reservoir and put fresh fluid in. Open the bleed screw one at a time from the farthest to nearest and don't let it run dry. When clean fluid comes out close screw and fill reservoir and repeat
sounds pretty easy. I did that with the clutch hydraulics already. Didn’t realize that’s all flushing is.
Old 08-26-2018, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty


sounds pretty easy. I did that with the clutch hydraulics already. Didn’t realize that’s all flushing is.
If it runs dry, you may.get air in the system and may need to have someone with an ABS scanner pulse the solenoid to clear the air.
Old 08-26-2018, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
If it runs dry, you may.get air in the system and may need to have someone with an ABS scanner pulse the solenoid to clear the air.
yeah I get that. You will probably go through a bottle or two of fluid but just add some after every pump or two.
Old 08-26-2018, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty


yeah I get that. You will probably go through a bottle or two of fluid but just add some after every pump or two.
I don't with the flush system I have but if you pump, it should be a 2.man system. Use a mirror to see how many pumps before it runs low
Old 08-27-2018, 09:41 AM
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Unrelated note, but my e-brake doesn't work. Where should I start trying to fix it?

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Old 08-27-2018, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
Unrelated note, but my e-brake doesn't work. Where should I start trying to fix it?
Define "doesn't work"? When you pull it. does the actuator at the caliper have tension?
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Old 08-27-2018, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
Define "doesn't work"? When you pull it. does the actuator at the caliper have tension?
That is an excellent question. Can you explain how to check that and pretend I have no idea what you're talking about?
Old 08-27-2018, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
That is an excellent question. Can you explain how to check that and pretend I have no idea what you're talking about?
Pull up on the e-brake with the release button depressed SLOWLY. Is there tension? If there isn't, you have a cable issue. If there is some tension look at the cables and see if they twitch. 2 man job. If it does, take the wheel off and pull it again and see if the lever moves at all. What I am trying to do is to see if your cable is attached to the parking brake lever. If it is, is it being tensioned like it should be. If it gets tension, will the end of the cable move? If it does, is it the e-brake mechanism that is frozen.




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