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Need head gasket job advice

 
Old 01-09-2019, 07:16 PM
  #81  
woodcrest
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Is this a special bolt, or can I use one of my old bolts? I am installing new factory bolts.
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:18 PM
  #82  
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Do I cut grooves in an old bolt? Cut in which direction? How?
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:51 PM
  #83  
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old bolt will be fine to use. put a cutting wheel on a dremel. i did this for the head and intake monifold bolts.

i reused my bolts on both ive done. i used hylomar. you are going to LOVE your newly sealed engine. have you considered doing a refurb on tour valve covers while u r at it?

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Old 01-10-2019, 02:55 AM
  #84  
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OK I took the tap back and they said probably defective, try another, so I did with better results, but I was still not satisfied, I did not think enough of the threads were cleaned. I put VwerChem Anti-Seize thread lubricant (copper formula) on a bolt and seemed to work like a dream. I can now turn the bolts by hand all the way down (about 6 turns). Do you think this is sufficient? The threads look very sharp and clean. Would your method give me any better result? What do you think? Also, you used hylomar on your head bolts? I bought new bolts from the dealer and they come with teflon coating....add hylomar? other? use as is? Greatly appreciate your help.
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Old 02-01-2019, 12:44 AM
  #85  
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Making headway...curious what you mean by "refurb on tour valve cover"?
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Old 02-01-2019, 12:45 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r View Post
old bolt will be fine to use. put a cutting wheel on a dremel. i did this for the head and intake monifold bolts.

i reused my bolts on both ive done. i used hylomar. you are going to LOVE your newly sealed engine. have you considered doing a refurb on tour valve covers while u r at it?

pic





Making headway...curious what you mean by "refurb on tour valve cover"?
Thanks
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:18 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by woodcrest View Post
OK I took the tap back and they said probably defective, try another, so I did with better results, but I was still not satisfied, I did not think enough of the threads were cleaned. I put VwerChem Anti-Seize thread lubricant (copper formula) on a bolt and seemed to work like a dream. I can now turn the bolts by hand all the way down (about 6 turns). Do you think this is sufficient? The threads look very sharp and clean. Would your method give me any better result? What do you think? Also, you used hylomar on your head bolts? I bought new bolts from the dealer and they come with teflon coating....add hylomar? other? use as is? Greatly appreciate your help.
sorry i didnt see this.

i used hylomar every gasket actually. not necessary. buti didnt want ANY chance of failure. i decked my heads myself at home and didnt really know if inwas doing it right (i did) and wanted the safety net of hylomar whichis amazing stuff if used correctly.

by refurbishing your valve covers, i mean stripping them anc painting them.
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:20 AM
  #88  
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a tap can/will affect the threads. i do not recommend this as a method to clean threads. only the thread chaser which can be home made as above.
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:18 AM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r View Post


sorry i didnt see this.

i used hylomar every gasket actually. not necessary. buti didnt want ANY chance of failure. i decked my heads myself at home and didnt really know if inwas doing it right (i did) and wanted the safety net of hylomar whichis amazing stuff if used correctly.

by refurbishing your valve covers, i mean stripping them anc painting them.

So you coated every gasket with Hylomar?
Head gasket as well? (too late for me to do this, just curious....)
You used Hylomar Universal Blue?
You say if used correctly, what is the correct technique?
Thanks.Hylomar® Universal Blu

Last edited by woodcrest; 02-01-2019 at 02:20 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:35 AM
  #90  
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Default yes every gasket even head gasket

not saying anybody else should. but im sold on hylomar. used in aviation rolls royce ferrari and lambo i think. expensive though.

youtube instructions on it. you have to mate the pieces then let sit apart for a few minutes. multiple stories of heads that wouldnt seal until hylomar was used. again not necessary for 99.9% of head jobs and now i know i didnt need it on mine. but i doubt they will ever let go!!!!!

its by far the best sealent coating stuff. i CANNOT STAND rtv for reasons you are probaby aware now after cleaning it off. only place i use rtv is on front and rear china wall. i used hylomar everywhere. all my gaskets can be pulled off and reused without question and itvwas my first time and wanted assurances that if i had to pull pieces off again i could. its non setting. expensive! use very sparingly.

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Old 02-01-2019, 02:37 AM
  #91  
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oh,,,btw...i did not use hylomar on bolts as a thread sealent.

i used permatex aviation form a gasket. brushed on threads.
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Old 02-07-2019, 08:06 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by yd328 View Post
I would do both, you are most of the way there. I would also go with a Felpro gasket set unless you plan on modifying the engine.

Gary
i second that thought, if 1 went bad the other is not far behind
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Old 02-07-2019, 10:44 PM
  #93  
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Do NOT use a tap to clean heads. Use a thread chaser. Taps will snap off way before a thread chaser does. You do not want to snap a tap,
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Old 02-08-2019, 07:20 AM
  #94  
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just want to ad in my 2-cents. as previously stated, do not use a cutting taps (or dies) to clean threads. cutting taps and dies create threads, while thread chasers, clean AND re-form or chase existing threads without removing existing or additional metal. chasing restores the proper thread profile. threads are somewhat de-formed during the torque process, especially if anything is over-torqued. threaded aluminum is really bad. while home made chasers work to clean threads, they don't re-form existing threads like a specialized tool. for what they cost, having complete sets - metric and fractional, sometimes is a godsend. cleaning and restoring threads, both male and female may be a bit ****, but things go together so much better. running a chaser tap down a threaded hole is only half the battle. chaser dies to clean threaded hardware is the other half. I got my sets off fleabay - taps, dies, metric, fractional, and USA made to boot - $15 - $20 per set, shipped. here's a link to one -- . https://www.ebay.com/itm/METRIC-THRE...gH4k:rk:3:pf:0 . BTW, its a good idea, especially with aluminum heads to clean and chase the sparkplug holes. there is a specialized tool for that purpose. same applies to any and all threaded holes - water pump mounting, air intake plenum and manifold, accessory mounting holes, etc..

here's a 3-page link on thread chasing and restoring male or female threads -- https://www.autoserviceprofessional....threads?Page=2


Last edited by Joe C; 02-08-2019 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:19 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r View Post
oh,,,btw...i did not use hylomar on bolts as a thread sealent.

i used permatex aviation form a gasket. brushed on threads.
'Scuse my ignorance here. Been a long time since I swapped heads on an engine, and that was iron heads on iron block. So my question is - do you no longer dip head bolts in oil?
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Old 02-09-2019, 11:52 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by car addict View Post
'Scuse my ignorance here. Been a long time since I swapped heads on an engine, and that was iron heads on iron block. So my question is - do you no longer dip head bolts in oil?
not sure if i'm reading right, but with ARP bolts, as I recall, they say to lube the washers. I understand the issues such of torque specs, and some bolts go into the water jacket, and need sealer. when I did my iron head 85, I used ARP sealant, and followed their instructions to the "letter." even talked with an ARP tech specialist before my first time use.

Last edited by Joe C; 02-10-2019 at 07:05 AM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 12:07 PM
  #97  
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Thanks for your reply, Joe. In a past life I was an Oldsmobile hot rodder Still have a disassembled 455 motor in my garage.Standard practice was to dip head bolts in motor oil. I believe that was recommended to obtain proper torque. IIRC none of the bolts went into water jackets.OTOH, could be my memory is as faulty as my knowledge of modern electronics.
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Old 02-09-2019, 01:57 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by car addict View Post
Thanks for your reply, Joe. In a past life I was an Oldsmobile hot rodder Still have a disassembled 455 motor in my garage.Standard practice was to dip head bolts in motor oil. I believe that was recommended to obtain proper torque. IIRC none of the bolts went into water jackets.OTOH, could be my memory is as faulty as my knowledge of modern electronics.
I think I understand now. never any serious wrenched on an olds, even though my dad had a 60 dynamic 88, two door pillard coupe - 347, 2bbl, and get this, a three speed on the column. actually that's the car I learned how to drive. so back to your original question, i'd say old school still applies, but with SBC, a few bolts go into the water jacket, and require sealer. speaking of modern electronics, i'm so old, I studied vacuum tubes, and we were still punching IBM cards. good thing P=IE hasn't changed or i'd really be screwed.

Last edited by Joe C; 02-10-2019 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:14 PM
  #99  
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No. The whole damned thing dipped in oil. This is from FelPro's website - "Bolts should not be installed dry, they need a little lubrication whether it comes from oil, a thread lubricant, thread locking compound or pre-applied sealer. They all help reduce friction so the correct clamping force from the fasteners can be achieved." This is for blind holes, not where bolt goes into water.

Last edited by car addict; 02-09-2019 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 02-09-2019, 02:31 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by car addict View Post
No. The whole damned thing dipped in oil. This is from FelPro's website - "Bolts should not be installed dry, they need a little lubrication whether it comes from oil, a thread lubricant, thread locking compound or pre-applied sealer. They all help reduce friction so the correct clamping force from the fasteners can be achieved." This is for blind holes, not where bolt goes into water.
can't argue that point, however, ARP bolts come oiled up, for what i'm assuming, a corrosion preventative. ARP tech service stated to solvent clean, and apply a proper sealant. I can say, if sealant counts as "not dry" then i'm on board. when it comes to SBC, just about everyone I know use thread sealer on all the bolts - water jacket or not. w/ no oil. well. here's the gray area. ARP's come oiled up, and technically, only bolts going into the water jacket need sealant. didn't get down to the nitty-gritty, but maybe the service tech meant solvent clean and apply sealant to the water jacket bolts only - ??? as I said, I have, and just about everyone I know, apply sealant to all the head bolts on a SBC. no oil since the oil and sealant may not be a good mix - ???

Last edited by Joe C; 02-15-2019 at 01:08 PM.
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