Should we take a chance on this C4?
12-04-2018, 07:34 PM
#21
Actually, on the paint bubbling issue, it is not always a prior accident/repair job that wasn't done properly. I have a car that has bubbles in the hood right below the headlight opening, in the B pillar, rear quarter by the door and on the targa top. Car is a no hit body, and the paint is original. There have been a few threads talking about this in the past.
12-06-2018, 10:12 AM
#27
Drifting
Great looking C4! You got quite a deal... if nothing major goes wrong in the next 1,500 miles. No worries, we all feel some paranoia & buyers remorse after buying a used C4
12-06-2018, 12:20 PM
#30
Pro
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I purchased a 95 base 3 years ago. 100k miles. I rebuilt both headlight actuators, replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders and that's it. There was some broken plastic on the interior but it all replaced cheap and easy. The antenna does not work but then I don't listen to the radio. Replacing the mast is also pretty cheap and easy. This is really a nice car. I'm sure you'll love it.
12-06-2018, 12:53 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
So pretty! Thanks for the pics. By the way, the 1995 also has the updated optispark distributor, not just the 1996. I have owned two 1995 C4s and they are fun and reliable cars if kept in good condition. Does yours have the 6-speed or the automatic?
EDIT: While you are draining the radiator, I suggest you also remove the knock sensors for a proper coolant service. It's not hard to do but the car must be up on stands (or a lift), or at least the front end lifted to gain decent access under the engine. Do a search or read this sticky thread: Corvettes, summer, and high coolant temperatures. The whole cooling system has over 4 gallons of coolant and the radiator only has about 1.5 gallons. Pulling the knock sensors will allow you to get a full flush and remove sediments and scale, so the engine is cooling properly. Taking off the shields is easy, the connectors can be finicky to remove and the sensors must be torqued to 14 lb-ft. Hope this helps you
EDIT: While you are draining the radiator, I suggest you also remove the knock sensors for a proper coolant service. It's not hard to do but the car must be up on stands (or a lift), or at least the front end lifted to gain decent access under the engine. Do a search or read this sticky thread: Corvettes, summer, and high coolant temperatures. The whole cooling system has over 4 gallons of coolant and the radiator only has about 1.5 gallons. Pulling the knock sensors will allow you to get a full flush and remove sediments and scale, so the engine is cooling properly. Taking off the shields is easy, the connectors can be finicky to remove and the sensors must be torqued to 14 lb-ft. Hope this helps you
Last edited by DGXR; 12-06-2018 at 12:59 PM.
12-06-2018, 01:05 PM
#32
Heel & Toe
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nope, it is an LT1. Got the oil changed today and getting the transmission flushed tomorrow. Got to replace the passenger side horn that doesn't work. The fob from our '93 doesn't want to completely link with the car. It will lock when you walk away and the horn will "toot" but the buttons don't do anything like pop the hatch or open the passenger door. I think it is the fob, but that isn't a big deal right now. I have the email address of the lady in Knoxville who repairs them and sent for her address and cost estimate. Radiator flush is the next project, along with the headlight actuators. Thanks again for everyone who has taken the time to give me their thoughts on this subject. Hubby is happy. I am happy that he is happy!
Last edited by 2018LadyInRed; 12-06-2018 at 01:17 PM. Reason: addition
12-06-2018, 01:38 PM
#33
Melting Slicks
don't forget the rear differential; since apparently drain plugs weren't within Chevy's budget, you'll want to buy one of those cheapo hand pumps and pump out the old stuff before pumping in the new lube; don't forget the additive for the posi traction; Everyone has an opinion, but I suggest staying with the factory lube and additive from the dealer.
Check out the u joints in the drive shaft and half shafts; if they have a grease zerk fitting, give them a shot of grease; that's probably the same grease in them as it left the factory with, and grease, unlike fine wine, doesn't get better with age; if there's no grease fittings, well, you've got a "lubed for life" u joint, which basically means its lubed for the life of the u joint. same thing for the ball joints and anything else with a zerk fitting.
sitting for who knows how many years hasn't done the fuel filter (outboard of the passenger side catalytic converter) any favors either; so replace that; just make sure there are no open flames or sources of ignition when you do.
and of course, the serpentine belt should probably be replaced.
and for what it's worth, and while I haven't personally experienced it, I have read reports that the adhesive used by the factory, can, and apparently does, eventually bubble up through the paint in the areas that you mentioned
Check out the u joints in the drive shaft and half shafts; if they have a grease zerk fitting, give them a shot of grease; that's probably the same grease in them as it left the factory with, and grease, unlike fine wine, doesn't get better with age; if there's no grease fittings, well, you've got a "lubed for life" u joint, which basically means its lubed for the life of the u joint. same thing for the ball joints and anything else with a zerk fitting.
sitting for who knows how many years hasn't done the fuel filter (outboard of the passenger side catalytic converter) any favors either; so replace that; just make sure there are no open flames or sources of ignition when you do.
and of course, the serpentine belt should probably be replaced.
and for what it's worth, and while I haven't personally experienced it, I have read reports that the adhesive used by the factory, can, and apparently does, eventually bubble up through the paint in the areas that you mentioned
Last edited by mtwoolford; 12-06-2018 at 01:47 PM.
12-06-2018, 02:03 PM
#34
Burning Brakes
12-06-2018, 04:43 PM
#35
Heel & Toe
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Thanks to all of you for your suggestions and opinions. I am glad we decided on this '95. It is an LT1, not a Z07 as someone thought. We got the oil changed and replaced the non-working horn on the passenger side. Fluids getting taken care of tomorrow. We will work on rebuilding the headlight actuator, or just but new ones. I enjoy working on the car with hubby, but I think I am driving him crazy with all my questions and suggestions. He just retired last week so this car will give us something to do together.
12-06-2018, 05:03 PM
#36
Melting Slicks
Does your car have the automatic or manual transmission?
Also, LT1 is an engine designation and the Z07 production code is a handling package. So a car can have the LT1 engine and the Z07 package too. Check the sticker under the center armrest, or under one of the storage compartments behind the seats -- it will have all the production codes for your car. It's very interesting to find out what options were ordered with your car, there are a ton of different configurations possible. Have fun!
Also, LT1 is an engine designation and the Z07 production code is a handling package. So a car can have the LT1 engine and the Z07 package too. Check the sticker under the center armrest, or under one of the storage compartments behind the seats -- it will have all the production codes for your car. It's very interesting to find out what options were ordered with your car, there are a ton of different configurations possible. Have fun!
12-07-2018, 04:06 AM
#38
Instructor
Actually, on the paint bubbling issue, it is not always a prior accident/repair job that wasn't done properly. I have a car that has bubbles in the hood right below the headlight opening, in the B pillar, rear quarter by the door and on the targa top. Car is a no hit body, and the paint is original. There have been a few threads talking about this in the past.
as with others, I suspected prior accident repair.
car fax says no accident. And I had removed the inner fender to look inside of fender right around where the bubble is, and there was no sign of any damage. All factory fasteners are all intact.
so if it was accident, which I doubt, it would have had to been light enough to leave no damage on fiberglass panel...
OP, awesome car, and awesome color! Enjoy the car!
12-11-2018, 07:07 AM
#40
Heel & Toe
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We had her serviced...so she has been flushed, both tranny and cooling, oil changed and a couple of expected leaks fixed. Mechanic says she looks great, both the topside and the nether regions! Now we have to do the headlight motors and try to figure out why she doesn't "chirp" when you leave the key in and open the door. Also still trying to get the PKE system to completely recognize the fob. I have contacted the "fob fixer" and have her address. Maybe get the fob checked out, just to make sure it isn't the problem...anyhow, thanks again for all your thoughts on our new "baby". Even though it really is hubby's car, I do feel a connection to her. I did find out that there were only 1,437 Dark Red Metallic '95 corvettes made, so she is kinda special in her own way.