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I know this is been covered many times before but I figured I would post them pics of my current job. My Corvette project of course has been costing me more money than I want to spend. However, my plan of fixing it and selling it seems to be slipping further and further away as I have decided that I will most likely just keep it. Once I got it running and the brakes working I took it out for a drive, and realized that the suspension was horrible. When I crawled underneath I noticed that the rear leaf spring was cracked, and the front shocks seemed to be seized. So I did what any of us would have done, I ordered a complete suspension bushing kit, new shocks, and I purchased a used rear leaf spring from flea Bay. Of course while I'm under there everything needs to be cleaned. I will also say most of the bushings weren't too bad, except for that front upper control arm bushing. I have just about every tool that I could ever want but I did have to rent the ball joint press kit from an auto parts store. I will also say that I did break down and bought a hydraulic press which made pressing in the upper control arm bushing so much easier. If you are doing this job and you do not have a press, I suggest going to Harbor Freight and buying their 12 ton hydraulic press. I got mine for $130. So here are the pics of the front after I finished it, now on to the rear and I will post pics of that as I go.
Now, on to the rear! Before Disassembly Passenger Before Driver Before Spring Mount Before Tear Down Before cleaning and press Pressing out the old All clear If you're not removing the batwing from the car, you will probably need to drill out the rubber in the old bushing to get it out Looks like a 6 shooter There is a sleeve that has to come out before you can press in the new bushing I used my sawzall and made a slit in the sleeve and then used a hammer and punch to get it out You can see where I made the cut New batwing bushing in Batwing and LCA Reassemble Getting the LCA with the new bushing into the knuckle was a pain as it is wider than the original bushing Knuckle back on Old cracked spring Wow, it was bad I redid the ends of the new to me spring to make it pretty Painting the inner tie rods Cleaned up and reinstalled Diver afterwards Passenger afterwards Whole shot Stance afterwards. Needs to settle in and I will probably have to get longer bolts for the rear spring to lower it.
All in all, it wasn't a bad job. Definitely took longer than I thought it would. Be sure you have the right tools for the job and take your time. Order extra grease from whatever bushing company you use as the grease they supply you with is not enough. With the poly bushings, there is no such thing as too much grease! I used Prothane bushings but I'm sure the other company out there are just as good if not better, I just found their kit to be a good value. Also be sure to order any extra bushings you need, my kit did not come with the bushings for the front and rear sway bars.
Last edited by AudioObsessions; 05-09-2019 at 11:44 PM.
Reason: Updated photos
The timing of your post is impeccable, as I have a lower ball joint that needs to be replaced. As of now it appears the upper ball joint is okay, but do you or does anyone recommend changing it as a precaution? If so how difficult was it to get out the factory rivets from the top ball joint?
Nice write up. I bought the bushing kit a few months ago, but haven;t had the motivation to go that deep just yet. Probably wait for the winter, but it looks like there are a few more tools I may need to make it an easier job.
This is the same set-up (riveted ball joints) that my Suburban has. I drilled out the rivet. First filed/ground a flat spot on the top of the rivet and then CAREFULLY centerpunched it. Then just a matter of drilling, stepping up in size to make it easier. Replacement is easier since they give you nuts & bolts!
This is the same set-up (riveted ball joints) that my Suburban has. I drilled out the rivet. First filed/ground a flat spot on the top of the rivet and then CAREFULLY centerpunched it. Then just a matter of drilling, stepping up in size to make it easier. Replacement is easier since they give you nuts & bolts!
Any thoughts about doing the upper when I do the lower? Thanks for the tip I appreciate it.
Nice write up. I bought the bushing kit a few months ago, but haven;t had the motivation to go that deep just yet. Probably wait for the winter, but it looks like there are a few more tools I may need to make it an easier job.
Definitely get the press. The hardest part was making a brace for the uca so they don't bend and pressing in the front bushing was a royal pain! Having the right tools was a big plus.
Kurt, I just used Simple Green and a green Scotch Brite pad and rinsed it off with rubbing alcohol. You may need a small brass brush to get the hard to reach spots.
How much time did the driver's side take - start to finish?
Rblakeney, I would say budget a day per side as long as you have the right tools and do as much cleaning as I did. Once you have it apart might as well make it look pretty.
Rblakeney, I would say budget a day per side as long as you have the right tools and do as much cleaning as I did. Once you have it apart might as well make it look pretty.
I totally agree with the cleaning. I do the same thing.
Thanks OP for the write up with the beautiful pictures!
I agree with you, a 12 ton press is necessary not only for the upper bushing but also to press in new lower ball joints if you don't want them to go side ways. (it took maybe 8 ton to press my ball joints in).
The car drive so much better and the squeaking of the rubber is gone (probably that came from the sway bar bushings).
Originally Posted by My two girls
Any thoughts about doing the upper when I do the lower? Thanks for the tip I appreciate it.
Don't forget to put a support across the control arm when pressing the upper bushings. I got a cheap U shaped piece of steel (something to mount shelves to the wall I believe) that I cut to length with a hacksaw.
I broke my balljoints open for the fun of it (I don't know how many miles they had or how often they got greased) but the wear was very minimal. I believe they would have lasted at least 20k miles more. Better be safe than sorry!
Thanks OP for the write up with the beautiful pictures!
I agree with you, a 12 ton press is necessary not only for the upper bushing but also to press in new lower ball joints if you don't want them to go side ways. (it took maybe 8 ton to press my ball joints in).
The car drive so much better and the squeaking of the rubber is gone (probably that came from the sway bar bushings).
Don't forget to put a support across the control arm when pressing the upper bushings. I got a cheap U shaped piece of steel (something to mount shelves to the wall I believe) that I cut to length with a hacksaw.
I broke my balljoints open for the fun of it (I don't know how many miles they had or how often they got greased) but the wear was very minimal. I believe they would have lasted at least 20k miles more. Better be safe than sorry!
Enjoy!
Thanks for everyone's advice, both upper and lower ball joints are ordered.
Then just a matter of drilling, stepping up in size to make it easier. Replacement is easier since they give you nuts & bolts!
I know people like to advocate using a small bit and stepping up in size, but it is a good way to ruin drill bits and make a not so round hole. The best way is to drill a pilot hole a little larger than the chisel point of the final size drill, then drill to the final size.
04-24-2019, 10:13 PM
Suspension Bushing Job
