Looking to purchase, tell me what you think about this one...
06-19-2019, 09:37 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Looking to purchase, tell me what you think about this one...
Car is local to me, I've seen it, heard it run and will drive it tomorrow.
Per Carfax, the mileage is authentic at ~47,000 and the car has never had an accident.
Everything in the interior works. Dash display is good. Fiddled with every button, they all do what they are supposed to do.
Interior has some fading in the carpet, there are no rips or tears in the seat trim.
AC blows cold.
I asked them to put it on a lift for me, which they did. There is no rust on any steel chassis member, only surface rust on the weld seams of the exhaust. Has a small oil leak at the driver's side valve cover (it's a small block... so OF COURSE the valve covers leak).
Starts and fires instantly.
Tires are very near new.
Only thing that seems not to work is the power antennae.
Please let me know what you think. Thanks!
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=223525683
Per Carfax, the mileage is authentic at ~47,000 and the car has never had an accident.
Everything in the interior works. Dash display is good. Fiddled with every button, they all do what they are supposed to do.
Interior has some fading in the carpet, there are no rips or tears in the seat trim.
AC blows cold.
I asked them to put it on a lift for me, which they did. There is no rust on any steel chassis member, only surface rust on the weld seams of the exhaust. Has a small oil leak at the driver's side valve cover (it's a small block... so OF COURSE the valve covers leak).
Starts and fires instantly.
Tires are very near new.
Only thing that seems not to work is the power antennae.
Please let me know what you think. Thanks!
https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/invent...ting=223525683
06-19-2019, 10:15 PM
#2
Race Director
Its clean, its close, it's a stick. Hard to beat that!
06-19-2019, 10:35 PM
#4
Team Owner
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That is very clean, but my biggest concern would be with the OD unit. The price does seem a little on the high side, but if you like it and everything checks out, why not go for it.
06-19-2019, 11:58 PM
#5
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: SE NY
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Cruise-In II Veteran
I agree that asking sounds high, e.g. I recently paid $9k (asking $10k) for my '89 MN6 vert that still needs little TLC.
If you decide to go for it, don't worry about the scuffs on the driver's seat bolster. My '89 had a much worse condition seat and a leather repair kit made it look like new. Similarly, if carpet is in good shape you can simply spray on a dye to rejuvenate it.
Good luck with your decision and hope to have you as a fellow Vette owner and Forum member.
If you decide to go for it, don't worry about the scuffs on the driver's seat bolster. My '89 had a much worse condition seat and a leather repair kit made it look like new. Similarly, if carpet is in good shape you can simply spray on a dye to rejuvenate it.
Good luck with your decision and hope to have you as a fellow Vette owner and Forum member.
06-20-2019, 09:28 AM
#8
In 1999 I had a Black 85 4+3 it was a fun car but $10k for an 85 to me is a tough sell, that much money can buy you Any year low mile base model C4 and even a 96 LT4 with under 100k miles,
I’m not sure what you’re specifically looking for in a car if you want/don’t want an 84-89 or 90-96 or doesn’t matter or would even consider a higher mileage C5 which can be had for your price range...
10k can also get you a just as nice/similar mileage 89 with all the improvements +a 6-speed and still have the digital dash if that’s a main selling point for you like it was for me when I bought my 89’
so if it was me I would pass on that car for $10k
6k and I might be interested
I’m not sure what you’re specifically looking for in a car if you want/don’t want an 84-89 or 90-96 or doesn’t matter or would even consider a higher mileage C5 which can be had for your price range...
10k can also get you a just as nice/similar mileage 89 with all the improvements +a 6-speed and still have the digital dash if that’s a main selling point for you like it was for me when I bought my 89’
so if it was me I would pass on that car for $10k
6k and I might be interested
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slammin (06-20-2019)
06-20-2019, 09:45 AM
#9
Race Director
I love when people talk about distant or hypothetical cars in price threads. Theres something to be said for cars you can actually BUY TODAY, vs hoping one comes for sale or flying across the country to get the cheapest one in the country. Leave that crap to Hoovie.
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convas (06-21-2019)
06-20-2019, 09:52 AM
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2000
Location: PA
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2022 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist
C4 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
St. Jude Donor '08
That car is clean and if you are comfortable with the price, go for it (don't be afraid to offer below their asking price by the way). You certainly could find a much cheaper one, but I guarantee you that you will appreciate a turn key car that runs right now and can be enjoyed instead of throwing parts at one all summer trying to get it up to where you want it to be.
06-20-2019, 10:25 AM
#11
Drifting
Price has already been spoken about. Does seem a bit high but not extreme. Maybe try to negotiate a bit. Here are some things I see to help with that:
- Power antenna - Since it's stuck up it's most likely the ribbon and not the gears or motor. About $40 in parts to repair and a couple hours of work. Not a hard job but is fiddley. If the motor is out you are looking at about $200 and an hours worth of labor.
- Leather on steering wheel. Looks like it's dried out and faded. That about $200 and 30 mins of labor.
- The horn button. It looks like one of the tabs may be broken off. REALLY common. About $30. Important to be right as they can come off while driving if not.
- Drivers targa weatherstripping needs to be replaced. It's pushed up and deformed in the rear
- Rear hatch carpet. I know you mentioned already but it needs to be replaced. About $200 and several hours in labor to do right.
- Instrument panel bezel is cracked at mounting points. $130 and 30 mins to replace.
- Center panel and the console are the same. Another $300 to do both if so.
- Drivers door lock switch is broken as is the surround ( has cracks). $20 for switch and $50 for panel. Is Passenger the same? Easy fix but 10 mins in labor expected.
- Drivers and passenger door panels. That screw in the top SHOULD NOT be in the upper trim pieces. There is a reason why it is. Find out why. It's $100 for a new ones and requires removal of the door panel to replace so about 30 mins in labor a door
- tires - they look good but check date code. If over 6 years they should be replaced so factor that in.
- Missing the plenum extension that goes over the distributor. Not a major thing but was stock on the car. $40 to add back
- AC was retrofitted. Not a big deal if done right. But if there is a leak and they just did it the car will blow cold now and quickly stop working again. Ask for details. When it was done and what parts were changed.
- What's going on with the metal heater pipe under the AC line? Looks rusted and corroded. If so, it's $130 for one of those and about an hours worth of labor. If it's cosmetic, no worries but they do tend to leak where the vacuum diverter is located at
Other things to check that I can't see.
- How are the bushings? Any cracking or dry rot?
- Wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends? Any movement or play?
- Shocks. Any oil leaks?
Overall it doesn't look like a bad car from what I can tell. It does need more TLC than I would expect for an 85 that is asking $10K for it. At that price I would fully expect to be getting a completely sorted out car with maybe 2-3 cosmetic issues. From what I see, it feels more like a $6500 car but if it's what you want and you can negotiate a bit then I wouldn't feel bad about spending more. I did the above not to nit pick the car but to try and help you understand what it will take to get it where it needs to be for the current asking price. I'm also hoping you can use that to negotiate a bit or at least not go into the purchase blindly and get caught off guard with the real cost.
Again, I don't think it's a bad car but for the asking price I wouldn't expect the things I noticed just in the pictures. I hope this helps and best of luck either with that car or your search in general.
- Power antenna - Since it's stuck up it's most likely the ribbon and not the gears or motor. About $40 in parts to repair and a couple hours of work. Not a hard job but is fiddley. If the motor is out you are looking at about $200 and an hours worth of labor.
- Leather on steering wheel. Looks like it's dried out and faded. That about $200 and 30 mins of labor.
- The horn button. It looks like one of the tabs may be broken off. REALLY common. About $30. Important to be right as they can come off while driving if not.
- Drivers targa weatherstripping needs to be replaced. It's pushed up and deformed in the rear
- Rear hatch carpet. I know you mentioned already but it needs to be replaced. About $200 and several hours in labor to do right.
- Instrument panel bezel is cracked at mounting points. $130 and 30 mins to replace.
- Center panel and the console are the same. Another $300 to do both if so.
- Drivers door lock switch is broken as is the surround ( has cracks). $20 for switch and $50 for panel. Is Passenger the same? Easy fix but 10 mins in labor expected.
- Drivers and passenger door panels. That screw in the top SHOULD NOT be in the upper trim pieces. There is a reason why it is. Find out why. It's $100 for a new ones and requires removal of the door panel to replace so about 30 mins in labor a door
- tires - they look good but check date code. If over 6 years they should be replaced so factor that in.
- Missing the plenum extension that goes over the distributor. Not a major thing but was stock on the car. $40 to add back
- AC was retrofitted. Not a big deal if done right. But if there is a leak and they just did it the car will blow cold now and quickly stop working again. Ask for details. When it was done and what parts were changed.
- What's going on with the metal heater pipe under the AC line? Looks rusted and corroded. If so, it's $130 for one of those and about an hours worth of labor. If it's cosmetic, no worries but they do tend to leak where the vacuum diverter is located at
Other things to check that I can't see.
- How are the bushings? Any cracking or dry rot?
- Wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends? Any movement or play?
- Shocks. Any oil leaks?
Overall it doesn't look like a bad car from what I can tell. It does need more TLC than I would expect for an 85 that is asking $10K for it. At that price I would fully expect to be getting a completely sorted out car with maybe 2-3 cosmetic issues. From what I see, it feels more like a $6500 car but if it's what you want and you can negotiate a bit then I wouldn't feel bad about spending more. I did the above not to nit pick the car but to try and help you understand what it will take to get it where it needs to be for the current asking price. I'm also hoping you can use that to negotiate a bit or at least not go into the purchase blindly and get caught off guard with the real cost.
Again, I don't think it's a bad car but for the asking price I wouldn't expect the things I noticed just in the pictures. I hope this helps and best of luck either with that car or your search in general.
The following 4 users liked this post by 85WHITEZ51:
MaineJim (06-22-2019),
PacerX (06-21-2019),
Steven_Belgium (06-21-2019),
thomas o'connor (06-20-2019)
06-20-2019, 12:22 PM
#13
Heel & Toe
IMO now is not the time
Again my friend and I haven’t heard anyone else make the comment now is not the time of year to buy a vette..
IMO between December and the first of March is the best time to buy that special ride you’re looking for..
If I can give you a for instance last February I purchased my 89” convertible auto with 22k one owner for just over $9000.
A few minor flaws but overall a nice ride..
I might also suggest you look on eBay as well..
It took me over a year to find what I was looking for and I’m happy I waited and kept searching..
BUT if it’s what you like and can afford you make the decision..
Best of luck whatever you decide and remember one way or another we’re all here for ya..
Thomas
IMO between December and the first of March is the best time to buy that special ride you’re looking for..
If I can give you a for instance last February I purchased my 89” convertible auto with 22k one owner for just over $9000.
A few minor flaws but overall a nice ride..
I might also suggest you look on eBay as well..
It took me over a year to find what I was looking for and I’m happy I waited and kept searching..
BUT if it’s what you like and can afford you make the decision..
Best of luck whatever you decide and remember one way or another we’re all here for ya..
Thomas
Last edited by thomas o'connor; 06-20-2019 at 12:23 PM.
06-20-2019, 12:32 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Price has already been spoken about. Does seem a bit high but not extreme. Maybe try to negotiate a bit. Here are some things I see to help with that:
- Power antenna - Since it's stuck up it's most likely the ribbon and not the gears or motor. About $40 in parts to repair and a couple hours of work. Not a hard job but is fiddley. If the motor is out you are looking at about $200 and an hours worth of labor.
- Leather on steering wheel. Looks like it's dried out and faded. That about $200 and 30 mins of labor.
- The horn button. It looks like one of the tabs may be broken off. REALLY common. About $30. Important to be right as they can come off while driving if not.
- Drivers targa weatherstripping needs to be replaced. It's pushed up and deformed in the rear
- Rear hatch carpet. I know you mentioned already but it needs to be replaced. About $200 and several hours in labor to do right.
- Instrument panel bezel is cracked at mounting points. $130 and 30 mins to replace.
- Center panel and the console are the same. Another $300 to do both if so.
- Drivers door lock switch is broken as is the surround ( has cracks). $20 for switch and $50 for panel. Is Passenger the same? Easy fix but 10 mins in labor expected.
- Drivers and passenger door panels. That screw in the top SHOULD NOT be in the upper trim pieces. There is a reason why it is. Find out why. It's $100 for a new ones and requires removal of the door panel to replace so about 30 mins in labor a door
- tires - they look good but check date code. If over 6 years they should be replaced so factor that in.
- Missing the plenum extension that goes over the distributor. Not a major thing but was stock on the car. $40 to add back
- AC was retrofitted. Not a big deal if done right. But if there is a leak and they just did it the car will blow cold now and quickly stop working again. Ask for details. When it was done and what parts were changed.
- What's going on with the metal heater pipe under the AC line? Looks rusted and corroded. If so, it's $130 for one of those and about an hours worth of labor. If it's cosmetic, no worries but they do tend to leak where the vacuum diverter is located at
Other things to check that I can't see.
- How are the bushings? Any cracking or dry rot?
- Wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends? Any movement or play?
- Shocks. Any oil leaks?
Overall it doesn't look like a bad car from what I can tell. It does need more TLC than I would expect for an 85 that is asking $10K for it. At that price I would fully expect to be getting a completely sorted out car with maybe 2-3 cosmetic issues. From what I see, it feels more like a $6500 car but if it's what you want and you can negotiate a bit then I wouldn't feel bad about spending more. I did the above not to nit pick the car but to try and help you understand what it will take to get it where it needs to be for the current asking price. I'm also hoping you can use that to negotiate a bit or at least not go into the purchase blindly and get caught off guard with the real cost.
Again, I don't think it's a bad car but for the asking price I wouldn't expect the things I noticed just in the pictures. I hope this helps and best of luck either with that car or your search in general.
- Power antenna - Since it's stuck up it's most likely the ribbon and not the gears or motor. About $40 in parts to repair and a couple hours of work. Not a hard job but is fiddley. If the motor is out you are looking at about $200 and an hours worth of labor.
- Leather on steering wheel. Looks like it's dried out and faded. That about $200 and 30 mins of labor.
- The horn button. It looks like one of the tabs may be broken off. REALLY common. About $30. Important to be right as they can come off while driving if not.
- Drivers targa weatherstripping needs to be replaced. It's pushed up and deformed in the rear
- Rear hatch carpet. I know you mentioned already but it needs to be replaced. About $200 and several hours in labor to do right.
- Instrument panel bezel is cracked at mounting points. $130 and 30 mins to replace.
- Center panel and the console are the same. Another $300 to do both if so.
- Drivers door lock switch is broken as is the surround ( has cracks). $20 for switch and $50 for panel. Is Passenger the same? Easy fix but 10 mins in labor expected.
- Drivers and passenger door panels. That screw in the top SHOULD NOT be in the upper trim pieces. There is a reason why it is. Find out why. It's $100 for a new ones and requires removal of the door panel to replace so about 30 mins in labor a door
- tires - they look good but check date code. If over 6 years they should be replaced so factor that in.
- Missing the plenum extension that goes over the distributor. Not a major thing but was stock on the car. $40 to add back
- AC was retrofitted. Not a big deal if done right. But if there is a leak and they just did it the car will blow cold now and quickly stop working again. Ask for details. When it was done and what parts were changed.
- What's going on with the metal heater pipe under the AC line? Looks rusted and corroded. If so, it's $130 for one of those and about an hours worth of labor. If it's cosmetic, no worries but they do tend to leak where the vacuum diverter is located at
Other things to check that I can't see.
- How are the bushings? Any cracking or dry rot?
- Wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends? Any movement or play?
- Shocks. Any oil leaks?
Overall it doesn't look like a bad car from what I can tell. It does need more TLC than I would expect for an 85 that is asking $10K for it. At that price I would fully expect to be getting a completely sorted out car with maybe 2-3 cosmetic issues. From what I see, it feels more like a $6500 car but if it's what you want and you can negotiate a bit then I wouldn't feel bad about spending more. I did the above not to nit pick the car but to try and help you understand what it will take to get it where it needs to be for the current asking price. I'm also hoping you can use that to negotiate a bit or at least not go into the purchase blindly and get caught off guard with the real cost.
Again, I don't think it's a bad car but for the asking price I wouldn't expect the things I noticed just in the pictures. I hope this helps and best of luck either with that car or your search in general.
My first time spent with the car was more along the lines of "does everything work?" and today when I go drive it I will get into those appearance details you mentioned.
Assuming the test drive goes well, then we start talking turkey with the dealer. Waiting around for the perfect $6500 car, or a car in this good of shape for $6500 seems to be a bit optimistic. I live in Michigan, and even with cars that are mostly fiberglass, rust simply destroys things. I've avoided C3's for this very reason: show-stopping rust problems are not necessarily obvious and I've known a few guys who thought they bought decent cars only to find out the birdcage is trashed and they're up a creek without a paddle now.
Anything south of me, outside of the snow/rust belt, is too far to drive to find.
The car has been listed for 256 days now at $10k. It should be obvious to the dealer that he's not getting $10k for it at this point. How far below that he will go is the question...
06-20-2019, 03:39 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
I agree you can get a newer car for that price. But if your heart is set on this year/options, this is a very nice example. If you show up with cash and fully prepared to walk away, they will likely make a deal with you. Good luck.
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FOURSPEEDVETTE (06-20-2019)
06-20-2019, 04:25 PM
#16
Instructor
Nice looking ride but around here that price is pretty steep (SE Wisc / North IL) for a car that needs seals & other tedious repairs.
If you have $10k ready & really love the car go for it, but I'd low ball the dealership first.
I bet they got that at auction for not much more more than $6200 (which is exactly what I paid for my clean 1992 Convertible w/ 100k miles in similar condition).
If you have $10k ready & really love the car go for it, but I'd low ball the dealership first.
I bet they got that at auction for not much more more than $6200 (which is exactly what I paid for my clean 1992 Convertible w/ 100k miles in similar condition).
Last edited by BubbaKahuna; 06-20-2019 at 04:29 PM.
06-20-2019, 06:04 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Purchased @ $8500.
Test drive went very well, 4+3 works flawlessly. I haven't driven a stick in a while, and have never driven a 4+3 so I managed to roll the car out in 3rd gear... at both of the first two stop lights I hit at the beginning of the test drive. L98 couldn't care less...
I'm sure the car was thinking:
"3rd? Really? Well OK, no problem."
Anyway, then I figured out where 1st was.
Everything checked out on the test drive. Parking brake works, tires are 2 years old, felt smooth, alignment is good, no funny noises.
Hmmmm… other notes... car feels strong for what it is. I didn't rag on it but I goosed it a bit. My CT6 will dust it, as will the wife's 2017 V6 Camaro convertible, but until the L98 runs out of breath it pulls pretty well and makes nice rumbly rumbly sounds.
So, after 19 years of being a member on Corvetteforum.com I finally own a Corvette.
Now... about that carpet, horn button and steering wheel...
Test drive went very well, 4+3 works flawlessly. I haven't driven a stick in a while, and have never driven a 4+3 so I managed to roll the car out in 3rd gear... at both of the first two stop lights I hit at the beginning of the test drive. L98 couldn't care less...
I'm sure the car was thinking:
"3rd? Really? Well OK, no problem."
Anyway, then I figured out where 1st was.
Everything checked out on the test drive. Parking brake works, tires are 2 years old, felt smooth, alignment is good, no funny noises.
Hmmmm… other notes... car feels strong for what it is. I didn't rag on it but I goosed it a bit. My CT6 will dust it, as will the wife's 2017 V6 Camaro convertible, but until the L98 runs out of breath it pulls pretty well and makes nice rumbly rumbly sounds.
So, after 19 years of being a member on Corvetteforum.com I finally own a Corvette.
Now... about that carpet, horn button and steering wheel...
Last edited by PacerX; 06-20-2019 at 06:16 PM.
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06-20-2019, 09:59 PM
#20
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2000
Location: PA
Posts: 21,670
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2022 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C4 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist
C4 of Year Finalist (stock) 2019
St. Jude Donor '08
Seriously, congratulations. Enjoy every moment of it.
